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Messages - Bob Schaefer

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 9
General BS and Laughs / WE ALL NEED TO PAUSE
« on: September 15, 2013, 03:05:58 PM »
There are no words that are sufficient, but sadly, that is all that some of us can offer, so accept my sincere sympathy. It is a great blessing that she was able to participate in those events.

General Tech- - BRAKES / Rear Brakes Rebuild
« on: September 06, 2013, 06:08:08 AM »

So this is sort of a continuation that started as a question about my brake light staying on, and turned out to be about the brake adjustment, etc... For that, I will probably try and bleed the brakes again, because though I adjusted them what seemed to be enough, and the pedal improved. it still had more travel than I'd hoped, and the light is still on.

That said, when I removed the drums to adjust, there is a ton of rust in there. The springs and other parts are old and corroded, except for the shoes and wheel cylinders, which had been replaced.

The thing is, I am confused when I look at Rock Auto, because they have sets for 11x2". 11x2 3/4", and 11x3", and most say "except wagon".

What I've read leads me to believe the wagon would have the 11x3" brakes in the rear. The HD brakes came without self adjusters, and mine has them, just so rusty they won't work.

So, any advice as to which hardware kit and self adjuster kit I should get from Rock Auto? I can't see where the width of the shoes would matter so much as to which kits to get, but they do seem to have different ones.

Thank you... Bob

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Brake Indicator Light
« on: August 26, 2013, 04:49:03 PM »
I adjusted them, but I think not enough. The pedal feels better, but the light is still on... I try more tomorrow.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Brake Indicator Light
« on: August 26, 2013, 03:35:00 AM »
Ok, so now this post belongs in the other forum, since it has become about my actual brakes... :-)
I have adjusted brakes before, but it's been a long time. I remember how to do it, for the most part, which would be pulling the wheels and drums. and adjusting the star wheel until there's just barely contact with between the shoes and the drums, yes?
Question though... I thought the drum brakes had self adjusters. Is it that they are just too out of whack from having been taken apart and redone? Perhaps not properly adjusted when they were put back together?
Anyway, when I get them apart, I will see.

Thanks, as always.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Brake Indicator Light
« on: August 25, 2013, 05:43:39 PM »

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Brake Indicator Light
« on: August 25, 2013, 10:59:37 AM »

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Brake Indicator Light
« on: August 25, 2013, 09:21:50 AM »
Well, my friend who had the car replaced the rear brake lines and wheel cylinders. The front had been done previously. I will check the wire on the proportioning valve.
This is of the big differences between this and my Polara wagon... The Polara didn't have power brakes.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Brake Indicator Light
« on: August 25, 2013, 08:58:11 AM »
I have opened the resevoir, and it appears to be full. I have checked the switch on the E-Brake pedal, and with the pedal applied, I can manually operate the switch, but it does not change the light.
One question I have is, does that switch have 1 lead or 2? There is only 1 wire going to it right now, and no place for another wire. I don't see anything that may have come disconnected, but it's weird to me that there would only be 1 wire.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Brake Indicator Light
« on: August 09, 2013, 05:56:31 PM »
See, now that's why we come here.. I'll check that first thing in the AM. Thank you.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Brake Indicator Light
« on: August 09, 2013, 05:06:31 PM »
That said, Mopar Night at the local Cruise was fun.

I agree about not wanting to redo them again for a long while... I'll see what I can afford when the time comes.

I see that it appears Just Suspensions is a favorite provider of bushings, and the like. Has anyone had much interaction with Firm Feel? They have a urethane bushing kit, and lots of heavy duty replacement or upgrade parts, such as tubular upper control arms, reinforced lower control arms, and heavy duty strut rods and tie rods. I'm not in a position to do all that, but the bushings are of interest. The Just Suspensions kit is about $499, and the Firm Feel High performance kit with urethane bushings is $750. The main difference, besides the bushings, is that the FirmFeel kit has heavy duty tie rod parts, and it includes an idler arm.

General BS and Laughs / Out for a Drive...
« on: August 04, 2013, 01:41:38 PM »
Looking at starters on Rock Auto, I am wondering what's the best way to go... I remember when I replaced my starter in the olden days, the parts book called for a High Torque starter... I'm not sure if what they have at RA is the same, or if there is a better place to look.

General BS and Laughs / Out for a Drive...
« on: August 04, 2013, 01:23:45 PM »
That is an excellent point. When I got the car back, my buddy told me he had replaced the voltage regulator, and if this is going on, maybe I will replace the starter, and see how that works. I have a new voltage regulator that I bought awhile back, so I can replace it when I replace the starter.

That's the biggest difference between having this wagon, and having my first wagon. On the original "Beast", as it was dubbed in High School, since my parents bought it new, and I adopted it as my own, I had been in on nearly every mile that car had on it. So I knew it pretty much inside and out. Everything new on it was put on by me and my friend. This wagon, aside from the fuel system work I did, is nearly all somebody else's work. Piece by piece, though, I am going to make it mine.

Thanks. Bob

General Mopar Discussions / MoPar fender #'s
« on: August 02, 2013, 08:09:31 AM »
Looks like passenger side fender my Monaco would want, but not in the plan right now. I hope someone makes good use of it.

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