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Author Topic: Narrowed It Down to Fuel  (Read 3298 times)

Steve

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Narrowed It Down to Fuel
« Reply #15 on: May 21, 2014, 07:40:45 PM »

Does it sound like it's turning over normally?



Were you driving it when it stopped?  If so, describe what it felt like
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Jose

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Narrowed It Down to Fuel
« Reply #16 on: May 23, 2014, 09:41:23 AM »

Hey POLARACO.
It does sound like its turning over normally
The fuel pump seems to be working fine. I will try the can and hose
It has about 70K on it
It sounds like its firing off .
As I was driving it just died.
I was just coasting after that.
When I pulled off to the side I
opened the hood and there was no smoke
or anything that seemed off.
I would turn the switch and all the dials would come on
normally.

I tried the sip and coil + to Battery +
this morning,
Ill try Snotty's advice

Ill check back soon

Thanks Again!

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Steve

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Narrowed It Down to Fuel
« Reply #17 on: May 23, 2014, 01:07:06 PM »

And your sure there is voltage to the coil.  
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Jose

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Narrowed It Down to Fuel
« Reply #18 on: May 23, 2014, 01:22:10 PM »

Yep. I just checked it after you mentioned it. I'm getting 9.1 something I did notice though. Is there supposed to be a specific gap between the rotor and cap?
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Steve

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« Reply #19 on: May 23, 2014, 10:35:28 PM »

Has to have a gap so the rotor soesn't hit the posts

Mr. Ed  He's out by you.  Wanna take a ride?  Northern Cali would be the Snottster.  That's a big state

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Jose

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« Reply #20 on: May 24, 2014, 01:13:01 PM »

Oh OK thanks. Yeah I'm out in San Jose Ca.
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Snotty

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« Reply #21 on: May 27, 2014, 09:31:50 AM »

SJ is still a while from me.


You've checked fuel flow and you know you have electricity to the coil.  One thing left in my armchair Doctor's Office, check the timing chain - see if the rotor is turning.
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Jose

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« Reply #22 on: May 27, 2014, 10:39:58 AM »

Thanks Snotty!

The rotor is turning.

After reading and rereading the posts.

I cranked it to top dead center
removed the cap and
saw that the rotor is lined up with
the 4 cylinder and not the 1 cylinder.

is it a matter of "bumping" the wires over
to line up with the rotor?
or
is the timing too far advanced?

Thanks again!


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Snotty

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« Reply #23 on: May 28, 2014, 12:11:34 PM »

OK, others will hopefully chime in here, but at TDC #1 will not be lined up.  I believe that is a common misnomer.  Someone correct me if I'm wrong!
When you say "lined up," is the rotor is pointing towards the left or the right?
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Steve

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Narrowed It Down to Fuel
« Reply #24 on: May 28, 2014, 02:26:00 PM »

Either you're not on top dead center (Marks on damper and timing chain cover) or the chain has possibly jumped.
With the marks lined up, the rotor should be pretty close to #1.  But to determine that you need to have it lined up.  You could turn the engine slightly with the belts, or get a 1 1/4 socket and breaker bar and turn it with the main nut
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dana44

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Narrowed It Down to Fuel
« Reply #25 on: May 30, 2014, 06:46:46 PM »

Yeah, and if you are lined up on the wrong wire after she was running right, you have to do a few things to figure out what went wrong.
 
Couple things to do to make sure the harmonic balancer didn't slip with age, there is a rubber seal between the inner part and outer part, time allows the rubber to let the engine torque make the two move.
 
Rotate the engine to number one according to the harmonic balancer as you have done. Now, remove the number one sparkplug and stick a wooden dowel or even a screwdriver, then move the harmonic balancer both directions about an 1/8th of a turn to see if the screwdriver (whatever) moves, verifying top dead center on the piston, if wrong rock the engine back and forth a little bit (a lot of easy play before the piston moves or feels loose means timing chain very loose, should be very little movement like a half inch and a feel of the chain catching to rotate the cam/distributor.  Once the TDC is verified this way, now check the rotor position in relation to the timing marks, see if they are off.
 
The rotor should now point to either number 1 or number 6 sparkplug wire, both are OK at this point if it was running before. If not, well, unless you have been yanking things around, timing chain no doubt has slipped.
 
You have fuel and squirting, so that should not be a major issue right now.
 
Now, if everything is OK from here, turn the key to on, then take the rotor and grab ahold of it, move it around, see if you can get any kind of movement (slop in bushings) that will make the points spark. You can get a little agressive, if the points are on one of the flats when you do this (the usual rest position), you should not be able to to it repeatedly, you might get lucky once, but not consistently. If not, then this is not the problem.
 
Check the wiring going through the distributor. Single black wire, they put a metal wire crimp clamp on the outside of the insuation to keep the wire from pulling into or out of the distributor, make sure it is not grounding anywhere, or the wire itself isn't grounding. If this is all good,
 
With a good charged battery, check the wires from the coil. I know we have gotten spark to the different locations when cranking (cap, coil, at the plugs themselves), make sure everything is clean and good, no bare wires, nothing shorting, there is different wiring that allows the key to be turned and shoot electricity which is different from when it is running, sooooo.
 
Run a wire across from one side of the ballast resistor to the other side. This bypasses the ballast, and for starting purposes, the points and condenser (replaced, right?), long enough to verify/test it is good, replaced or not.
 
This tests everything in sequence to operate/troubleshoot to operate/not operate, we go from here.
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