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Author Topic: Front end rebuild kit  (Read 5348 times)

dana44

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Front end rebuild kit
« Reply #30 on: July 09, 2013, 08:19:41 PM »

Rob, do you have a welder? If so, tack a small bar across the top of the balljoint and use a monkey wrench and cheater bar to break it loose. Once it starts moving, it isn't that bad. I have actually done a tiny tack weld on one side of the mating surface of the upper balljoints to make sure they do not move in the future, and all it takes is a hacksaw or sawsall to make the tiny cut to break them apart. Heck, I have even gotten them loose with a monkey wrench by itself. That, or take them down to the front end store itself (family places have the older tools needed more often than not), and give him $20 to change out the top balljoints and bushings. Did that on the Charger a few years back.
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68 Charger 440 6pac/02 PT Cruiser/63 TR4 2.5 5spd/39 Nash Business Coupe/95 Dakota Sport 3.9 5spd/81 Z28/ USN Retired

Steve

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« Reply #31 on: July 10, 2013, 08:35:34 AM »

I have the tools Ed.
My health has deteriorated dramatically
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dana44

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« Reply #32 on: July 10, 2013, 01:39:30 PM »

OK, yeah, that's fine, but you also need to get yourself taken care of, got it? You are in my prayers if that helps any.
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68 Charger 440 6pac/02 PT Cruiser/63 TR4 2.5 5spd/39 Nash Business Coupe/95 Dakota Sport 3.9 5spd/81 Z28/ USN Retired

Rob Molloy

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« Reply #33 on: July 13, 2013, 03:56:54 PM »

Ok, so I started playing with the car again, found a local that has the ball joint socket, so hopefully I'll be able to get that part taken care of. Since the torsion bars were pointed out, I've been messing with those, however....I really don't know what I'm doing. LOL! I got the adjustment screw loosened all the way, but from here, I'm at a loss. Any tips from the more experienced? Do I need to remove the crossmember for this? Any advise is welcome! Thanks all!
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Steve

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« Reply #34 on: July 13, 2013, 04:47:28 PM »

Let me see if I can find a picture in a parts book for reference.

To take the lower arm out, you need to take the T Bar out.  It slides back, but i forget how they held it on place.  The later cars had a snap ring at the end of the shaft mount.  Then the big nut on the cross member 
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dana44

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« Reply #35 on: July 13, 2013, 06:18:35 PM »

That's right. Go to the rear of the torsion bar and you will see the ring along with the ends that are sticking out, about half an inch 90 degree bend ends. Just grab one of the two ends with a pair of plyers and they pull out. from there, you will see a strut rod going from the lower control arm to the front radiator support of the frame, remove both nuts, then, undo the nut that goes from the inner side of the lower control arm located at the front end of the torsion bar (bar on back of the control arm, nut on the front end of the control arm). Once this nut is removed, take a prybar and pry the lower control arm backwards, the torsion bar will slide through the rear or the crossmember in the rear, the strut will fall out, and the lower control arm will come off. Once it is loosened, pull the control arm off the torsion bar and the torsion bar will come out for cleaning. Remember, don't attach anything to the torsion bar that will nick or scar it, it damages them. Note the front of the bar and left and right side, get them in the same as they came out.
 
The bushing in the lower control arm is a pain to get out, there is a spindle of sorts that is pressed into it going forward, which is pressed in and out, the bushing then has to be peeled out with a chisel. I usually bend the front lip of it towards the center and pry it until it comes out. The one on the spindle can be laid on a flat metal surface and hit until it stretches the metal, or, gently, score it with a flat chisel until it cracks (or a combo of the two methods). Caution installing so the inside shell doesn't break apart when installing it on the spindle and then into the lower control arm, so press the whole busing into the lower control arm and then supporting the bottom side of the bushing, press the spindle into the inner shell (if the shell inside isn't supported, the pressing will push the shell out of the rubber between the inner and outer of the two shells.
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dana44

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« Reply #36 on: July 13, 2013, 06:20:59 PM »

In your picture of all the new parts, the double shelled bushing for the lower control arm, it's the two bushings located at the top of the picture, between the two upper balljoints, the upper A arm bushings (4) are right below them.
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68 Charger 440 6pac/02 PT Cruiser/63 TR4 2.5 5spd/39 Nash Business Coupe/95 Dakota Sport 3.9 5spd/81 Z28/ USN Retired

Steve

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« Reply #37 on: July 15, 2013, 01:48:37 PM »



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dana44

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« Reply #38 on: July 15, 2013, 04:47:24 PM »

Good picture. Yeah, the torsion bar is released from the rear of the bar instead of at the front control arm. My bad on that, too many B bodies, forgot this was a C or older design. The nut/washer and shaft 2-15-4 is the oddity, later they simply pressed the shaft into the bushing and then into the lower control arm.
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68 Charger 440 6pac/02 PT Cruiser/63 TR4 2.5 5spd/39 Nash Business Coupe/95 Dakota Sport 3.9 5spd/81 Z28/ USN Retired

Steve

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« Reply #39 on: July 15, 2013, 07:08:07 PM »

It's still that way on the lower Ed.  You need a special extraction tool for the shaft so not to damage the A Arm
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Rob Molloy

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« Reply #40 on: July 21, 2013, 03:48:47 PM »

Welp, the front end is completely apart. Drivers side took a bit, but once I figured everything out, got it done, and then the Passenger side was easy. Also, if I understand correctly, the shafts are pressed into the lower control arms, along with the nuts? I haven't tried taking them out yet. I wanted to be sure on this before I tried. Anyway, on to the pics!!
 

 

 

 
And as most of the parts sit now:

 
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dana44

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« Reply #41 on: July 21, 2013, 07:23:36 PM »

Look inside the end and if there is a nut and washer, remove it before you start doing anything with it. If it taps out with a hammer, great (don't damage the threads pounding on it, put the nut back on the end when pressing it when you get to that point, until it is loosened up. In this case, let us know what is there.
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Steve

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« Reply #42 on: July 22, 2013, 05:20:55 PM »

It requires a special tool to remove the shaft.  There is no nut inside.  It's a press fit.
 
It can be done on a press, but it's a bit dangerous for the parts.
 
Once the shaft is out, then you have the project of getting the old bushing sleeve out.  A hot wrench comes in handy.
 
There's a tool for the uppers too.  You can change them yourself.
 
Look between the shaft and the control arm.  Right where it goes in.  If the bushing is bulging out or torn, change them.  If not and they look nice from the outside, leave them.
 
The biggest thing that kills those bushings is bad shocks.  Very important
 
Those are the bushing tools I was asking you about.
 
Yup Ed.  I'm still alive
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dana44

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« Reply #43 on: July 22, 2013, 07:57:30 PM »

Press the rod out of the control arm, then do as I said before to remove the sleeves. IF you don't want to remove the sleeves and do an easier job, get a set of Poly bushings instead of rubber. They use the original metal sleeves and replace the rubber part, so it really helps in the replacement, they push in with your fingers and a little bit of silicone grease, usually supplied with the bushing, and they work really well.
 
Thanks Steve, was looking at 36 hours without a response, getting worried. Couple Navy Rum and Cokes and hearing from you, feeling pretty good.
 
 
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Steve

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« Reply #44 on: July 22, 2013, 08:57:24 PM »

And my nightly Brandy is tipped to you.
I have a good blast every night to easy the pain for sleeping and it thins my blood.  2 dangerous pills I don't have to take
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