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Author Topic: Oil Pan Gasket  (Read 1297 times)

Bob Schaefer

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Oil Pan Gasket
« on: June 22, 2012, 04:02:52 AM »

Greetings,
So, it appears I will need to replace my oil pan gasket. I've done a lot of things on the '69 Polara and Monaco, but I've not done this before. Do I need to raise the engine up, in order to get the oil pan out? I don't need to pull the engine out, right? I would really like to replace the pan, itself, because this one is a bit dented, but I don't have a bunch of cash right now.
 
I also have a trans fluid leak, which I don't know if it's the trans cooler lines, or something else. The trans oil pan is brand new, so I know that's not leaking. The lines are rusty, and need replacing anyway, but if it's a seal of some sort, that will have to wait until I can afford to take it to a shop. I will have to get start it up, and let it run awhile, and see if I can see where it's leaking from. Transmissions are beyond me.
 
Thank you... Bob
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1969 Dodge Monaco Wagon
383 4bbl, Dual Exhaust
Electronic Ingnition

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Oil Pan Gasket
« Reply #1 on: June 22, 2012, 07:13:58 AM »

The pan, yes, the engine has to be raised, simply remove the two long bolts on the motor mounts, jack the car up using a 2X6 or wider under the pan, and raise it to the point you can stick a 2X4 piece between each motor mount and its bracket. The whole car will rise, so it ends up going up about 8-10 inches or more, which gives you room to get under it afterwards, put jack stands or blocks under the body portions behind the wheel to keep it up there. Have to pull the starter, too, can't get to the bolts behind it, so disconnect the battery. Takes a little finesse to get it out from under the crankshaft throws, so take your time and don't get frustrated. When installing, put the pan in first, then attach the gasket, keeps from ripping it off when sticking it back in there.
 
Make sure you dimple the bolt holes from block side to outside so they don't clamp the gasket too tight and still leak.
 
Trans-wise, gotta figure out where it is leaking. If it isn't the pan, then lines, the shifter seal or the rear seal can all be replaced with the transmission in the car.
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Bob Schaefer

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Oil Pan Gasket
« Reply #2 on: June 22, 2012, 06:01:11 PM »



Fortunately, I do have a fair and reliable transmission guy locally, so if need be, I can get the rear seal replaced.
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1969 Dodge Monaco Wagon
383 4bbl, Dual Exhaust
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Oil Pan Gasket
« Reply #3 on: June 22, 2012, 06:45:13 PM »

Lines should work, it is a big car and they go to the radiator. Not like the routing would be different than any other bigger car, same engine as the little cars with big engines, right?
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Steve

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Oil Pan Gasket
« Reply #4 on: June 22, 2012, 07:49:33 PM »



You know, now would be a great time to slip in a new rear seal. 
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Leaburn Patey

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Oil Pan Gasket
« Reply #5 on: June 24, 2012, 08:11:14 AM »

To make the job easier,drop the steering linkage for clearance.
Knock the center link from the pitman and idler arms and let it hang down.
More wiggle room to get the pan out.
now is the time to install a windage tray while you are at it.
Been there,done that,got good results from my 68 new yorker.When i used my car for towing,the windage tray stopped the foaming of the oil from the crank splash up.Gaining a few ponies does not hurt either.
In regards to the tranny leak,if the car sits long enough between drives,the fluid will drain back from the convertor and back into the trans,overfilling the pan causing a leak between the dipstick tube and tranny..Really,no way of me diagnosing anything not being there.
Cheers.
CBarge2012-06-24 13:15:23
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Bob Schaefer

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Oil Pan Gasket
« Reply #6 on: June 24, 2012, 05:09:54 PM »



Bob
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1969 Dodge Monaco Wagon
383 4bbl, Dual Exhaust
Electronic Ingnition

Steve

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Oil Pan Gasket
« Reply #7 on: June 24, 2012, 05:51:50 PM »




I can even tell you all the wrench sizes you'll need too.  I've gotten to the point where I just take what I need with me and don't come out until I am done under there.  Same with rebuilding them.
POLARACO2012-06-24 22:53:48
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