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Author Topic: Neon Help  (Read 2782 times)

James Brown Jr,

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Neon Help
« on: June 03, 2012, 06:35:27 PM »

i am having an issue with it hesitating at lower RPMs. it's almost as if it's missing.for instance: when leaving a stop, on it's way thru first it will buck slightly but still pick up speed, once the rpm's get higher it goes away, then i shift into second and it goes away. also occasionally i get a small backfire. just a single pop. if any more information is needed just ask away.




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Steve

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« Reply #1 on: June 03, 2012, 08:36:01 PM »



I just had a 94 Dakota here with the exact same symptoms.  The coil was the problem.
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Neon Help
« Reply #2 on: June 03, 2012, 08:56:02 PM »

Not coil on plug, but coil pack and four plug wires. Does it only do it when cold, and stop when warmed up, or is it always? When was the last time the plug wires were changed? The deep plug wire insulators can eventually arc through to the sparkplug tubes and cause a miss, or, bad plug wires can leak when cold, then run better after the engine has warmed up a few minutes. If the plugs haven't been changed in a couple years, get new wires and plugs, see what that does. Also, check for codes doing the key dance, any check engine light by chance?
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James Brown Jr,

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« Reply #3 on: June 04, 2012, 04:05:05 AM »





ok so the plugs were changed with champion copper plugs about 2 months ago. wires have NOT been changed, it does it sporadically, and only when in gear. it hapens cold or hot.
the check engine and battery light has been on since i bought the car.
codes are as follows: P1684, P1193.
they are the same codes as when i bought the car.Foamy_3022012-06-04 09:13:21
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Neon Help
« Reply #4 on: June 04, 2012, 07:41:19 AM »

http://www.xtremeneons.com/how-tos/engineandtrans/2kcodes.html

Here's a list of codes, the 1193 is the inlet air temp sensor voltage high, meaning it is thinking the engine is warmer than it is so it is going to run leaner, but at the same time, if the wires haven't been changed it could be a short, sparkplug wires aren't designed to be removed more than once before they start breaking down its connection thus start missing, it's a continuity thing with them, I have had a problem like this with my Dakota, change the plugs once, change them a second time and the plug wires have to be changed the second time or a miss when in gear would develop, so every second time, change the wires and no not take them off the sparkplugs unless changing the plugs themselves.  Back to the 1193 code, it sets a parameter for the computer and fuel tables to determine fuel/air ratio and timing associated with actual air temperature, and if it is reading wrong it it will use the wrong tables internally and would then change everything else while driving, so get it changed, disconnect the battery for 15-30 minutes to make the computer reset to factory settings and start recalculating the sensor from a new starting parameters. The computers are designed to do this as a reset, change the sensor and not disconnect the battery makes the computer start calculating parameters from the last time she was driven/running and then recalculate them, so disconnect the battery and it starts working from factory settings, which is a shorter route to adjust from.
 
Yeah, those error codes can be helpful sometimes, temp sensors seem to make the biggest problems in running right.
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James Brown Jr,

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« Reply #5 on: June 04, 2012, 09:03:09 AM »



all right so i will be ordering a new sensor, any recomendations on plug wires?? OEM?? i would prefer an upgrade but am unsure on which ones to get.
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Snotty

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« Reply #6 on: June 04, 2012, 09:29:03 AM »

OEM will be fine.  The fun thing about those motors, as well as the 2.4, is it takes about 5 minutes to change them!  Whoo-hoo!
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James Brown Jr,

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« Reply #7 on: June 04, 2012, 09:34:55 AM »



extreamly easy. now i know the plug tubes need new seals as my plugs are constantly covered in oil.lol but they come with the valve cover gasket set.
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James Brown Jr,

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« Reply #8 on: June 04, 2012, 09:38:41 AM »



ok another question i had. how can i tell if my car is a lemon?? i mean since we bought it (in april) i have done rear brake cylinders, front control arms, front pads, front tierods, spark plugs, and it still needs sway bar links(front), rear shoes, new tires, shifter bushings, and i am questioning if the shocks and struts are bad. and of course this new problem. i mean i LOVE the car, it's small, sporty, efficient, and a MOPAR. but i don't want a money pit ya know.
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Snotty

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« Reply #9 on: June 04, 2012, 09:53:50 AM »

A lemon, or just used, and used hard by its previous owner?  We bought my daughter's '00 Neon in 2003 and it was with her for 8 years.  (t was lost in an accident.)  She did not have any of those problems other than a brake job.  The car had 143,000 miles at the time of the accident.
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James Brown Jr,

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« Reply #10 on: June 04, 2012, 12:18:14 PM »

well as far as i can tell the car has lived a pretty hard life. it was once towed behind an RV( it has the front brackets still installed and is wired to be towed). also the two passenger doors are not original( the have been repainted from white) the headlights are misaligned and have broken mounting points, there is a dent in the rear bumper support behind the cover, the grille is held on with zip screws and the front bumper is full of stress cracks and the sort. i think i may have overpaid for it. lol but i do love the car and it fits perfect into our family.

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Tom Dawson

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« Reply #11 on: June 04, 2012, 03:51:01 PM »

It is a 12 year old car just like my 2000 Neon, expect things to break. Change the air inlet temp sensor and replace the valvecover gasket and spark plug tube seals, the oil on the plugs will cause it to misfire. Good luck with luck with it, Neons are great cars.

Tom



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Neon Help
« Reply #12 on: June 04, 2012, 04:30:27 PM »

Yeah, you failed to mention the mileage, and things do go bad, and if the car was towed behind an RV for years and thousands of miles and there is some damage here and there, probably an accordian or a "backed into something while attached to an RV" accoridian damage, yeah, suspension and brakes wear out. Chances are good to very good that you were sold the car because it was worn out. There are a lot of people out there that sell cars because they need wearing parts replacement, whereas they probably could have saved money on a new replacement by doing the repairs and the car would have lasted another ten years.  There really isn't anything on your list of needs that isn't a normal wear item, especially if neglected.  A lemon would be electrical type repairs that rear their ugly head again, and again, or halfshafts all the time, or fix one thing and another thing go bad.
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firedome

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« Reply #13 on: June 05, 2012, 12:28:39 PM »

In my own experience, I've found that it's cheapest to look around for
as long as it takes to find a car with quite a few years on it, say
10-12 years, but quite low miles, say no more than 60-70k, with very
good service records, typically an old person's car. You may pay a
little more up front but less in the long run and you can often get 3-5
years out of it before making major repairs.  They are out there,
but you have to take some time in looking. An older family member's car
can sometimes be a good candidate, as it is a known quantity.  I
used to buy big '70s Mopars and Buicks like this for 1500-2000 and
drive them for 5 or more years. Gas mileage was the only real problem.
IMO a '90s Buick LeSabre/Olds 88/Bonneville w/ 3800 engine that is not
one of the years for the plastic intake manifold problems ('95-98?) or
has had the update is a great choice for a cheap safe family car that
still gets very good mileage and can go 250k or more. No, not a Mopar,
but IMO better than any '90s Mopar for really cheap safe
transportation. It's kinda good not to be a slave to one particular
manfr when going the economy transpo route.

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Steve

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« Reply #14 on: June 05, 2012, 05:30:18 PM »



On the other hand.  Get ll this stuff fixed up and you have a long term dependable car.  They ar eknown for 250,000 to 300K with minimal trouble
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