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Author Topic: Hubcap Restoration  (Read 1339 times)

Scott

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Hubcap Restoration
« on: June 14, 2010, 05:46:27 PM »

It's on to the final step of the restoration of my 1965 Chrysler 300 Convertible...the hubcaps.  I purchased the paint today which should arrive later this week.  For the chrome-like portions of the medallion I will be using a product from Spaz Stix called Mirror Chrome.  This product is used in the R/C car hobby to emulate chrome on R/C Car bodies.  It is designed to be applied from the back so I think (fingers crossed) it will produce a finish which should be very close to the factory finish.
 
http://www.spazstix.com/whatsnew.php?id=16
 
This is what I have to start with.  All 4 are about in the same condition.  The disks are in good shape; all I need to do is re-do the black stripes.  The medallions are a mess but a free from cracks.  I'll post pics as I progress. 
 

 

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Steve

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Hubcap Restoration
« Reply #1 on: June 15, 2010, 06:32:56 AM »

Unfortunately, mine are all heat checked and pretty ugly.
 
I'm probably going 15's on this one anyway
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Scott

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Hubcap Restoration
« Reply #2 on: June 15, 2010, 06:58:08 AM »

Quote from: POLARACO
Unfortunately, mine are all heat checked and pretty ugly.
 


 
Yeah, I was going to go with 15" Magnum 500's from Specialty Wheel.  Being as the whole car was basically restored to stock, I decided to go all the way and go with the stock hub caps.
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Stan Paralikis

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« Reply #3 on: June 15, 2010, 07:42:37 AM »

I'll be watching this one.

Steve

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« Reply #4 on: June 15, 2010, 07:43:20 AM »

I was too.  If I can find the inserts, I'll stay with the 14's.  I'm way away from that right now.
 
I am converting to the dual master though, and adding the AAJ front disc brakes.  They will acomodate the 14" wheel.  Even with the 3" brakes, it's allot safer.  Goint to keep the rear drums.
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Scott

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Hubcap Restoration
« Reply #5 on: July 12, 2010, 06:22:05 PM »

Step One:




Hopefully it will look close to the factory original.
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Scott

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« Reply #6 on: July 15, 2010, 07:25:31 AM »


Step 2: Paint the Red, White and Blue stripes on the back side of the medallion:


rexus312010-07-15 12:25:51
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Scott

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« Reply #7 on: July 15, 2010, 07:30:37 AM »

Step 3:




Can't do much about the crazing in the plastic.  These are over 45 years old after all.  The reflective properties of this paint are very good.  I am expecting even greater results when I shoot a top coat of black over the Ultimate Chrome.
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Steve

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« Reply #8 on: July 15, 2010, 07:42:50 AM »

Those aren't anywhere near as grazed as all of mine.  I have 7 of them and they all look the same.  When I get to them, I am going to shoot one with some clear to see if it will fill in the Grazing and hide some of it.  It's worked on tail light lenses pretty well
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Scott

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Hubcap Restoration
« Reply #9 on: July 15, 2010, 07:48:42 AM »

Overall, I'm very pleased with the way they came out.
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Stan Paralikis

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« Reply #10 on: July 15, 2010, 09:07:08 AM »


Quote from: rexus31
Overall, I'm very pleased with the way they came out.
Damn, you should be.  Great job! 

Scott

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« Reply #11 on: July 15, 2010, 10:17:00 AM »

Quote from: Commando1
Quote from: rexus31
Overall, I'm very pleased with the way they came out.



 
Thanks man!
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firedome

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« Reply #12 on: July 16, 2010, 02:48:47 PM »


Using that Easy-Off is a great idea... I'd never thought of that.

Most paint solvents woulda messed up the plastic.

firedome2010-07-16 19:49:47
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Scott

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« Reply #13 on: July 16, 2010, 02:50:05 PM »


Quote from: firedome
Using that Easy-Off is a great idea... I'd never thought of that.

Yeah, it works good.  Just don't let it dry on the plastic as it will etch it.  It should only take about 3-4 applications of 5 minute set time to remove all the paint.
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Scott

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Hubcap Restoration
« Reply #14 on: July 16, 2010, 04:09:22 PM »







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