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Messages - Leaburn Patey

Pages: 1 ... 195 196 [197] 198 199
2941
MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / Barge on Budget 2014 Bit of a lull.
« on: October 08, 2007, 07:33:14 AM »
I buy spray bomb rubberized undercoating.Not the cheap stuff either.
This is a $10 dollar can that has more rubber content compared to the el cheapo $4.00 can of road tar.
Made by a Canadian company,Dominion Sure Seal Ltd. of  Mississagua,Ontario.
In some areas of the car the epoxy will be painted over with body color,then undercoated to emulate a factory look.
Some areas of the floor pan from the factory was lucky to get any primer or paint


2942
MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / 71 sport fury
« on: October 08, 2007, 07:13:08 AM »
All C's have a nice ride,IMHO.
The Imperial does have its own quality of ride,however.
I noticed a difference in Rusty's '68 Imp compared to my New Yorker
Yet,my '68 Plymouth VIP rode equally as well as the New Yorker.
The SF should feel lighter with more road feel.Yet should still have a smoootthh soft ride.
CBarge2007-10-08 12:13:41

2943
MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / Barge on Budget 2014 Bit of a lull.
« on: October 08, 2007, 06:56:41 AM »
Good question,Potatoe.
My rather long reply..
My answer is a lot of hard work.
I am cleaning the entire bottom of the car by removing all the factory undercoating.There is flash or surface rust trapped behind it that must be treated.Some of the factory undercoating is loose and moisture got trapped behind it .It must be cleaned to  bare metal  or until all the rust is gone.
I use a propane torch,scraper,coarse wire brush on my angle grinder,and the required safety gear-face shield,mask,gloves.
 I am doing it lying on my back underneath the car.
 
All of the rusted out areas of the floor and trunk have already be repaired.
I am about 1/4 the way to the front of the car.Still a ways to go.
It is hard work with all the dimples in the floor pan,all the nooks,crannies -anywhere moisture found a home from years of sitting outside.
Then epoxy primer will be applied to the bare metal.I will then emulate the factory overspray of body color,and copy where the undercoating was.
 
In the long run it will be worth it.
 
In short,removing all the undercoating and spraying epoxy primer will seal the floor pans from moisture.
The rubberized undercoating is added protection,noise reduction,and will look sorta "factory correct" since almost all cars sold in the "rust belt" were undercoated when new.
Thanks!
 
CBarge2007-10-08 12:04:56

2944
MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / Barge on Budget 2014 Bit of a lull.
« on: October 07, 2007, 05:06:18 PM »
That is rubberized undercoating.I removed what was left of the factory undercoating.
She is going to be a cruiser.Not worried about how it looks underneath.I am not after a show trophy or a car show judge blessing.
I will try to emulate some factory schtuff.But some things have to be done to preserve the car due to our climate here.
Bottom line is I know it is clean and will not rust.
CBarge2007-10-07 22:07:20

2945
MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / Barge on Budget 2014 Bit of a lull.
« on: October 07, 2007, 04:29:28 PM »
Sunday..
I cleaned up some of the mess in the garage.I removed all the wiring from the parts car dash.It was amazing that car ran at all.Yeah,lots of globbed/burnt wires.The harness is junk.
I cleaned and undercoated the tank I got from Joisey's hotrodnwillie.
Now I am searching for the darn tank straps I hid away so I won't lose them.I hid them TOO well..


2946
MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / MBONB
« on: October 07, 2007, 04:09:23 PM »
IIRC,all my 318's liked 10-12* timing with the 2bbl.If there are caps on the idle/air screws,knock em out so you can fatten up the mixure to compensate the higher timing to prevent ping.
Open up the dizzy and check to make sure the mechanical advance weights are not stuck.Use a vacuum guage all the time you are making adjustments and diagnosing the suspected vacuum leak.
All the mid 70's Mopars I had or worked on had the time delay thingy on the air cleaner..They never worked and were bypassed.
Hook up the vacuum advance to the carb directly and see if there are any difference in idle.
As Steve mentioned,block off the EGR,you don't need it.
While you are at it,double check the kickdown throttle rod at the carb.Adjust as needed.
Why?
If it is not set up properly it can make the car sluggish.
Why?
Not only is it for the 3-2 downshift,it also regulates the trans fluid pressure.If it is out of adjustment the trans fluid pressure will be out of whack.
This directly affects your MPG as well.
I don't know how many times I had seen guys rebuild a carb,jam it back on,and complain it  still drives like crap when they totally ignore the kickdown rod. 
When set up properly with a good running 318,1st is good at WOT and will shift to 2nd at about 40,2nd is good all the way up to 70-75,then it should go to 3rd.Shifts should be crisp and smooth.
Around town,with a moderate foot Drive should be done by 30 MPH.
If it comes in too soon,it will be sluggish.
Hope this helps!
CBarge2007-10-07 21:20:28

2947
MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / What the Heck! POLARACO
« on: October 06, 2007, 06:03:46 PM »
How to avoid the "spaghetti incident..LOL
Steve,I know how wiring can be tedious work.Got to have patience of a brick wall sometimes.
Good work!

2948
MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / 1960 Chrysler NewYorker
« on: October 06, 2007, 01:54:02 PM »
You need a big garage to house them thar big cars!
my garage is only 20X40-and Steve would still kill for mine!! 
Me? I'd kill ofr a hoist right about now.It would make cleaning the belly of my car much easier....on my back..
LOL!
CBarge2007-10-06 19:00:03

2949
MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / Barge on Budget 2014 Bit of a lull.
« on: October 06, 2007, 01:43:32 PM »
Quote from: Foamy_302
i didn't know you could have sending units fixed.
Mine was leaking fuel around the feed tube right at the large round tab that fills the hole in the tank.It is a spot that does get soldered when built new.The solder went away from time and age.
It was resoldered and tested.Works.
I was just lucky,I guess.
I tried repairing the old sending unit prior to this this one.
It simply did not read.I took it apart and tried soldering the teenie tiny wires on the rheostat inside the unit.That attempt  failed and was tossed into the garbage can.
CBarge2007-10-06 18:44:16

2950
MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / Barge on Budget 2014 Bit of a lull.
« on: October 05, 2007, 09:04:49 PM »
Behind the scenes,the sending unit has been repaired.Cost? 40 bux for soldering and testing.IT WORKS!!
Nubers correct 383 26" rad is being repaired and recored locally.Cost? 325.00.OUCH! Still cheaper than a cooked 383...
The garage is a mess.Time to organize it again with all the parts I have laying about.
This weekend is the Canadian Thanksgiving long wekend.Plenty of work will get done on the car!
Stay tuned!
Thanks to all who have been following!

2951
MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / Barge on Budget 2014 Bit of a lull.
« on: October 05, 2007, 08:59:35 PM »
I am gradually working my way to the front of the car in regards to the belly.Fuel line will be removed and replaced after the cleaning/painting.
The brake line is already installed but I was thinking about removing it for the belly scraping.
CBarge2007-10-06 02:00:30

2952
MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / Barge on Budget 2014 Bit of a lull.
« on: October 05, 2007, 08:55:57 PM »
My pooter internet server is coming to fix the modem or router whatever.it conks out on me.
That got me off my butt and work on the car.
I cleaned up a section of the belly of the car to get ready for the tank.
I removed as much of the flash rust as possible.Epoxy primer was applied to bare metal and then semi gloss black paint.
Based on what I had seen on this car the whole belly is painted black from factory except the overspray on the sides from the rockers and 1/4 trunk extensions.I will try to reproduce this the best I can.
I could have gone nuts and detailed this area but nobody will see it once the tank is installed.
I also finished up the tail panel that is hidden behind the bumper.
Both are not not show quality but at least I know it is clean and rust free as well.

 

2953
MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / The Brakmobile
« on: October 05, 2007, 08:15:45 PM »
How bad are the rotors from the 2 door?
 Can they be machined for the time being as a temporary repair until you do find replacements?
I know of a '72 4 door parts car that I have to check if it has rotors still on it and if they are any good.
I have to drive a fair distance to get to her,though

2954
MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / 71 sport fury
« on: October 05, 2007, 08:11:21 PM »
Sjak I remember that car! Good score!
IIRC,the previous owner was a member of another forum and the car was driven regularly.

2955
MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / The Brakmobile
« on: September 30, 2007, 06:40:48 AM »
Good score on the 915's Sjak! Investing in headwork is the best palce to out the money.Big blocks love to flow and certainly worth every Euro.
I blew 800.00 on my 452 heads to make em work on my 440.That was 35% of my engine rebuild budget.A sizeable chunk.
I had a friend who spent close to 1200.00 for his race car in head work alone.

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