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Messages - fury fan

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Based on info I have read, the 7012 is the rotor for a 69-71 brake setup (the expensive style).

  • Rock Auto shows a 7012R rotor for $152 and a 7012 for $132.  The R’s application is specifically listed as 69-72 C-body, while the plain 7012 has no applications listed.  
  • shows the 7012 as being the correct part# for a 69-71 rotor and does not recognize a 7012R.
  • has no listings for 69-71 at all.

  • I wondered if the R refers to RH threads, but if so I would think the R rotor would be cheaper due to the studs being more ‘common’ for the manufacturer. 
  • There is no listing for brake rotors for 69-70 cars (on Rock Auto), 71 is the earliest year showing a rotor, and wasn’t 71 the start of RH threads on both sides of the car? 
  • The photos look the same, but I’m not sure we can trust that in this case.
  • Both are listed as ‘professional grade’, so no clues there.
  • Haven’t found a ‘related parts’ link so I can’t cross-ref by the bearings to figure out what’s –what.
Any thoughts?  I have heard of (and seen) a unicast 69-72 rotor, perhaps the 7012 is it???
If the 7012 is correct I’d sure like to be able to save $40 on a pair of rotors!
Here is a kinda-related link on rotors, although it doesn’t address my question.

« on: July 14, 2008, 05:24:27 AM »
I agree on the PITA, I've replaced at least 3 of them in the last 5 years (mostly as a preventative measure, though).  If I didn't have a good source for new ones I'd probably change it over to something else. 
However, I have a hard enough time getting factory-designed parts installed , I'm not gonna try one of those 'bolt-in' aftermarket parts!!!  And I do like the idea of a rubber part in my non-collapsible steering columns, too.

« on: July 14, 2008, 02:48:42 AM »
It's a rubber isolator between the steering column and the shaft that goes to the steering box. 
The one I'm speaking of is used mostly from 65 to early 70s, more common in cars with the Saginaw (IIRC) steering column.  Cars I've owned that have had it: 65 Fury, 65-66 Chrysler, 65 Dodge, 70 Chrysler.  Ones that don't: 68 Fury, 70 Fury
It's about 3" diameter and about 1" thick.  Has 4 metal triangular inserts in it, too.  It's a far more engineered piece that the 1/4" thick corded-rubber parts that the Brand X vehicles use.
Reportedly the thick style was used in vans in later years but I've not yet seen one, and I've checked a few vans over the years looking for it.
If your joint is bad, my experience is that you will hear cracking noises in the steering column when turning the steering wheel at low speed.

Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / 70 440 Magnum / TNT torque converter weights
« on: July 07, 2008, 02:57:39 AM »
Engine is a 70 440 Magnum with the 70-71-Magnum-specific external balance.
The transmission front seal blew out of my trans, in one day it went from an occasional drip to enough drips&runs to turn my car into a cropduster.  I suspected this was more than a seal to start leaking so badly, and suspicions were confirmed.
The converter hub has a pretty wide wear patch on it, and I also noticed the converter has 2 ring gear teeth missing, which I could feel when starting the car (but didn't know what it was). The converter also has 2" tall lettering on the back side that has been painted over, so somebody has been in there before me (even though it's a 'survivor' car).  I'm going to install a new pump bushing, seal, and new converter.
I've looked and haven't found anyone that lists this specific converter, and I've looked unsuccessfully for the data on the weight size and location so that I could weld them onto an unbalanced converter.  Anyone got any info?  My car always had a slight vibration (could feel it in neutral when revving the engine) so I don't trust using my existing converter weights or as a pattern.

Hey Polaraco -
I have a full floorpan from a 65 Polara and a rear floorpan section from a 65 Fury.  If you need any let me know and maybe we can work something out...

Tech- - FUEL / Need some Quick help on a gas tank
« on: April 22, 2008, 08:23:36 AM »
I didn't fully know whether they were talking about grommet interchanges or filltubes interchanges. 
Yeah, I may have thrown a ringer in by mentioning the 65 Fury, but the length and bend angles differ between some of the rear-fill cars also, that was the case with 66 Chrysler vs 68 Fury.  I just wanted to give a heads-up over headaches I had in the past...
fury fan2008-04-22 13:27:12

Tech- - FUEL / Need some Quick help on a gas tank
« on: April 21, 2008, 09:53:07 AM »
Sorry, I was looking for something specific on fuel tanks and saw this old thread...
The filler necks are NOT the same from 65 to 74!!!!  For instance - 65 Fury fills thru the quarterpanel (a 1-year, 1-car-only tank!), 65 Dodge behind the license plate, 65 Chrysler between the taillights.  In addition, I discovered the tanks and filler necks are not the same between a 66 Newport and a 68 Fury, even though both fill behind the license plate.  They were close enough that the mismatch did not leak gas, though.
fury fan2008-04-21 14:57:40

Tech- - Engine / Polaraco vs, O2 Sensor
« on: April 08, 2008, 11:04:21 AM »
Thsi might be a great question for the Megasquirt forums, there are a lot of folks there that know OEM systems like backs of hands.

Tech- - Engine / 440 BB, now what to do??
« on: April 08, 2008, 11:01:45 AM »
Others have beat me to the punch on ideas.  I think a stroker is best for a well-mannered engine in a large car.  I would give a turbo the 2nd choice, only because of the extra expense and the fabrication involved.  Turbo has it beat for pizazz and wow factor, though!
As for the Eddy EFI, some folks aren't real 'happy' with it.  Their hardware (rails and intakes) help a bunch, though.
As for me, I'm no expert.  My turbo setup and my EFI system are still in the non-completed stages....

Good color choice!  Actually, for me, any metallic color that would *not* be seen on an A-B-E musclecar is good to me!  I'll even support greens and browns if they are a good shade.

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