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Messages - Robert Rottman

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 39
16
General Tech- - BRAKES / Warped E-brake drum
« on: December 23, 2012, 12:19:01 PM »




 
Here's a photo Bryan w/drum removed.
 
Thanks again Steve for your offer. If I find someone that can get in there with a cutting tool but needs a way of mounting it you'll be the go to guy.
 
If this gets to be a pain in the neck I'll switch gears and look for a new (non-warped) drum.
 
Bob

17
General Tech- - BRAKES / Warped E-brake drum
« on: December 21, 2012, 06:42:11 PM »
I called two local machine shops and left messages...will have to wait till after Christmas I'm sure. Before you go cutting anything off Steve let me see what I hear back from them. Even with the right chunk of splined shaft I 'd still have to find someone that has a small lathe that can get in there with a cutting tool. So there's no guarantee that will work. Thank you for wanting to help though. I appreciate it. There's Rochester clutch and brake too here in the city. They specialize in old cars. And if not I can always look for a new drum too.  I've never had issues like this with my C-bodies...finding parts or getting parts reworked. Noone seems to  know what to do with these Fin cars or their parts. Has anyone else ever noticed this?  
Bob

18
General Tech- - BRAKES / Warped E-brake drum
« on: December 21, 2012, 03:22:19 PM »
57 Plymouth Belvedere...The type of E-brake on output of transmission. Has anyone ever had a warped drum turned? I went all over town today and all the shops turned me down...said it was either too small and they couldn't get their cutting tool in there or the splined hole in the center will cause mounting problems in their lathe and they couldn't get it to run true. Do I have to get a new (used) one?



 
It's ridiculous trying to get anything fixed on this car...
 
Bob

19
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / 1957 Belvedere driveshaft
« on: December 20, 2012, 05:14:27 AM »
Hopefully this will answer your question Bryan...Chrysler used the ball and trunnion type driveshaft in the 50's - mid 60's (on the front) with (sort of a) traditional X-type u-joint in the rear.
 

 
Steve, If you have a kit...keep it as a kit. They're going for $220 now!! I was hoping someone had an old ball and trunnion type driveshaft sitting around and could spare one little old needle roller out of it for me....or they had some sitting in a hardware drawer on their bench. Plus I don't want you getting hurt again...What the heck happened to you...to get all those staples in your head and elbow? 



20
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / 1957 Belvedere driveshaft
« on: December 19, 2012, 05:04:09 PM »
Quote from: POLARACO
Bob  Rotate the drive shaft 180* in the year yoke and see what happens
 
 

Steve, I don't plan to put the driveshaft back in until I find a needle roller so that one ball housing will be full. I'm hoping this will fix the vibration. I did mark it with chalk before removing so with all the needles in place I do want to put it back in exactly same way it was in before. If this doesn't fix it, I certainly can try rotating it 180*...

21
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / 1957 Belvedere driveshaft
« on: December 19, 2012, 01:13:46 PM »
I've had a vibration problem in my 57 Belvedere ever since I bought the car in 2010. (during acceleration only @ ~ 30mph). Removed driveshaft this past summer and took it to two machine shops/driveshaft specialists. They both said it was ok and were reluctant to look into it deeper at all...They both just felt the front ball & trunnion joint and rear X-u-joint. They could not spin it to check the balance because they had no way to mount it in their lathe. So I reluctantly put it back in car and of course...still had the vibration during acceleration ~ 30 mph. Fast forward to right now. I removed the driveshaft again and dug a little deeper this time myself. Found one needle roller missing on one of the balls in the ball & trunnion joint up front.  I think this could be the source of the vibration. Now...I can get a rebuild kit but they're $220. Where can I find just one needle roller? It's .062" in dia...and .655" long. Would anyone here have any of these laying around?
 
Thanks, Bob

22
General Tech / Windshield wipers quit
« on: November 07, 2012, 06:04:01 PM »
Quote from: dana44
I'll let Steve answer that part, but I found with the Charger that once mine were  loosened up and moving on their own, the oil that is in there has helped prevent them from freezing up so I don't worry about it. The B bodies are a pain to get to, they are studded underneath the dashboard and run through the cowl, not sure how yours are, think they are outside and under the cowling like my Dakota, but not sure. Last thing I want to do is have to go back in there and do it again, but pretty confident they won't freeze up again.


 
Ed, mine weren't easy to get to but I did not have to go under the dash...I had to remove the molding at the base of the windshield and then remove about a dozen screws to get the cowel cover off...then the pivots, linkage, motor were all accessible. I've put eveything back to together now...put some "never sieze" at the top and bottom of each pivot sleeve. Wipers work great once again.
 
Bob

23
General Tech / Windshield wipers quit
« on: November 04, 2012, 04:04:17 AM »
Quote from: POLARACO
I didn't think that far but good job.
 
Soak the pivot in some diesel fuel or Kerosene.  Heat them with a hair dryer or heat gun and soak them again.  Keep doing it.  The fuel will work it's way up the shafts and start to work on the corosion in the bodies.
 
 
Ed...Steve...Thank you for your advice. I've been soaking the driver side pivot in penetrating oil for about 48 hours now and it has loosened up nicely. My concern was that once I put them back on the car that the rust inside might get going again and they'd just soon sieze up again. I can't disassemble them as they have a crimped collar. Question: Steve, Without disassembling them how did you tap the hole you drilled in order to thread for the zerk fittings? Nice idea but I don't see it happening without taking the shaft out of the pivot body?? 
Bob 




24
General BS and Laughs / Saturday pics
« on: November 04, 2012, 03:55:13 AM »
Thanks Peter...I needed a car show this morning. Great pics of some nice ol' cars. First snow of the season here in upstate NY. Cruise-ins and car shows already seem like a distant memory.
 
Thanks again...much appreciated,
 
Bob

25
General BS and Laughs / Raise you hand if you are still here!
« on: November 02, 2012, 12:53:01 PM »
Quote from: firedome
No politics here, if you please....
 


Come on...a good political argument might get people's blood  moving a'round here.  What are ya' scared of Roger?  

26
General Tech / Windshield wipers quit
« on: November 02, 2012, 12:47:15 PM »
HiSteve, It's a 3 speed. I've got it under control. I finally figured how to get the cowel cover off. Discovered the linkage was frozen up...Driver side wiper pivot specifically. I tested the motor/switch with the linkage off and it works fine so it's just the issue of getting the driver side wiper pivot freed up. I've got it soaking right now.
 
Thanks, Bob

27
General Tech / Windshield wipers quit
« on: November 01, 2012, 03:50:12 PM »
My windshield wipers quit on my 68 Monaco today. The wipers were going real slow before they died only went the one speed...(real slow). Does anyone know how to test the wiper motor to see if it's good/bad?...because I do realize it could be a bad switch in the dash. There's 4 wires on the 3 speed motor.... red, blue, green and brown. Which one do I give the juice to? I don't have a shop manual or I'd look it up.
 
Thanks, Bob 

28
General BS and Laughs / Raise you hand if you are still here!
« on: November 01, 2012, 03:38:34 PM »
As every responsible citizen should, I voted....................................................Republican

29
General BS and Laughs / POST, people!!
« on: October 15, 2012, 09:15:38 AM »
Hi all...I too noticed that the traffic here was slowing down. Sorry to say...I poke around and do a lot of reading but I'm definitely at fault for being very quiet for some time now. I'm sorry for that guys. I do have some good news though. I thought I was going to start thinning the herd as I sold my 41 Plymouth coupe a few months ago...but then I found this C-body...locally...only 20 miles from me. I gave the guy what I thought was an offer he'd refuse...but he didn't, so I'm back up to 4 Mopars again. 2 C's and 2 Fins. This one is truly rust free with what certainly looks like an honest to goodness 67k miles. Survivor status? Perhaps?...I hate to get it painted as the paint is still so nice. Well...Here's some photos. Enjoy and I'll try to speak up more often. Take care and be blessed.


 


 


furyfever2012-10-19 18:28:11

30
General Tech / 1958 DeSoto heater core leak?
« on: December 20, 2011, 08:00:10 AM »
Just a "follow up" post here.  I sent delcoJoe the heater control valve out of my 58 DeSoto. He rebuilt it and got it back to me in just a little over one week. I tested it outside of the car. It seems to work well now with no leaks and...It looks like its brand new too! His charge: $83.00 total (+ ~$5.00 shipping to get it to him). He's a very trusting soul too which is totally unheard of in this day of age. He sent it back to me without payment to him first. He just asked me to send him a check once I received it and was satisfied  
 
Bottom Line...
 
Delco Joe does great work to the customer's satisfaction and at a fair price.
 
Thanks for this recomendation Steve

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