MoparFins

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

We changed servers, which is good, and lost all passwords, which is bad. See above.

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Jay

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5
46
WELCOME NEW MEMBERS! / Newbie here....
« on: November 15, 2011, 04:12:02 PM »
okay so we got the body design aside.
 
 
has anyone dealt with JC Auto Restoration, Inc. company before that is from WA state?
 
I emailed about getting new linkage awhile back and they replied today. i also sent pictures and they said they can set me up but i need to pull off the link that isnt broken and measure it so they can find the right size for me. I also sent them an email back with the linkage i got from a friend, they said that could work but needs the right bottom piece to hold the bushing in and to hold on to the sway bar. so i need to get my butt over there on sunday and take the other one off and measure it.
 
 
this thread is beginning to be a not so newbie anymore...

47
WELCOME NEW MEMBERS! / Newbie here....
« on: November 15, 2011, 03:00:50 AM »
Quote from: dana44
No, the B body sway bar would not work due to the frame and lower control arm connections on the car, the brackets necessary to attach it to the frame would make the brackets necessary to work look rediculous, and the points where it attaches may be too close to the bends in the swaybar itself, too many little variables that I do not believe would start adding up to be wrong.
 


 
 
Im just quoting Furyman67 asking if B body links would work since he said it would. i dont think it would work taking a B body link to a C body. totally different frame work.

48
WELCOME NEW MEMBERS! / Newbie here....
« on: November 14, 2011, 01:57:53 PM »
Quote from: Snotty
 
 
I looks to me like you should be able to use te links you picked up.  However, do not cut and weld them, use them as they are.
 
You will need to cut the original links off as you will never get them to come off of that sway bar, unless the bushings are totally shot.  As you can see in your picture your bar has the flat ends, not round ones. 
 
Now, you can re-use your original links, but you will need to seperate welds on the bottom of the link.
 
 
okay, after searching for abit. i see they made two different kind of sway bars for the C body. one is a sway bar mounted to a Frame, and another one mounting from the Strut Bar. mines off from a Strut Bar. So this 71 B Body sway bar would work for a C body???
 
 
 
 
Quote from: furyman67
 
 
if you got some in your basement, mind taking a pic and post it up for me?  i can use all the photos i can get for references.  i would assume Cbody and B body were completely different as frame are designed differently. as Body were muscle car type of frames and C body were classic types such as 300s and new yorkers.

49
WELCOME NEW MEMBERS! / Newbie here....
« on: November 13, 2011, 05:46:12 PM »
This site has a bolt set but only works on chrysler 67 to 78. would this work or NO?
 
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=11&partnum=K6629&a=FR11-K6629-169812

50
WELCOME NEW MEMBERS! / Newbie here....
« on: November 13, 2011, 05:33:55 PM »
Okay I'm back from my mini weekend with the gf, I picked up the part from my retired Police Officer friend... now heres the Sway bar linkage off from MY car... i havent taken it off yet...
 
 

 
 
 
 
now heres a pic of the sway bar linkage he gave me.. missing the clamps to hold the bushing in to hold onto the sway bar.. it would work!!! but now I'm stuck in another problem. do i cut off these bolts and weld them to the existing piece on my car?
 

 
 
opinions are WELCOME!!!
 
 
.

51
Site Questions and Announcements / Kilroy
« on: November 09, 2011, 05:28:36 PM »
i know the kilroy story. dont have to show me a link or lecture me. i just know the one of a ship inspector (hence why i said a US Navy should know) that checked all rivets in the ship and not missed one beat. KILROY was here.

52
WELCOME NEW MEMBERS! / Newbie here....
« on: November 09, 2011, 05:25:59 PM »
ill keep that in mind if i run into another broke link if i can get one done or from my friend. i got patience with this car.

53
Site Questions and Announcements / Kilroy
« on: November 09, 2011, 04:59:27 PM »
lol... we calling steve.. OLD?

54
WELCOME NEW MEMBERS! / Newbie here....
« on: November 09, 2011, 04:55:52 PM »
Quote from: dana44
Didn't we do this to a 77 New Yorker or something, for the rear swaybar?
 
Use the length of the original unbroken one so it is the correct length, threads on the nut end to the frame and a lip so the outer washer doesn't slip on the rod, flat 3/16/3/8 inch flat plate with holes drilled on each side of that so a round bushing with one flat side can be clamped to the swaybar.  I will have to look for the post we had going on for this, I think it was attkrlufy that started it, and I remember putting a picture of what to do in there (thanks for the scanner Steve).  You can look it up and find out what worked and what didn't work, it took two tries to get it right.
 
 
well they do make linkages for 77 on new yorker. my grandpa has a 78 New Yorker Broghram (spelling) and those are totally different than to the 66 linkage. so im not sure a 77 is gonna be the same.. perhaps it is.
 
tmr im gonna see my retired LEO guy and see what he found on his mother's farm he bought years ago since he said he has a 68 or a 89 chrysler there and see what kind of link he found.  if this is going to be a headache project, i may just do what Steve said, and call the just suspension and get an aftermarket for both front and back and get them done and over with. then when the motor is getting over hauled, i will have the frame and engine bay repainted so it will look good.

55
General BS and Laughs / My Daughters took me out for my B Day Yesterday
« on: November 09, 2011, 04:49:31 PM »
Quote from: POLARACO
Quote from: birdman652001
uh.. one question.. which one is you in the picture? ;)
 
The little one on the right   
 


 
 
 
I was giving ya crap. ;)

56
Site Questions and Announcements / Kilroy
« on: November 09, 2011, 04:48:39 PM »
well i would hope so Dana44 since youre a retired USN!

57
WELCOME NEW MEMBERS! / Newbie here....
« on: November 09, 2011, 03:36:55 PM »
Quote from: dana44
The bushing is square. The clamp on it has to be cut to get it off, the clamp is designed to hold the square bushing so as not to slip.  The end has a thru bolt and yes, is round, but you will not get this square bushing off the swaybar without cutting and rewelding the clamp on it. If the bushings are loose or move in any way whatsoever, they last about five miles and are beaten to death, the swaybar is exerting several tons of pressure in a turn and a bump in the road is again, several tons of pressure each time, and things don't last very long under those circumstances unless they are firm and fixed.



 
 
well it lasted this long 106,000 miles and finally one snapped. I would assume if I get it fixed right, it should last me a long while.
 
do you suggest I go aftermarket?

58
General BS and Laughs / My Daughters took me out for my B Day Yesterday
« on: November 09, 2011, 02:31:20 PM »
uh.. one question.. which one is you in the picture? ;)


59
Site Questions and Announcements / Kilroy
« on: November 09, 2011, 02:27:03 PM »
KILROY!!  i hope all of you know the story about this how it came about.

60
WELCOME NEW MEMBERS! / Newbie here....
« on: November 09, 2011, 02:24:15 PM »
Quote from: Snotty
 
That only works if your swaybar has a round end.  If yours does, good for you.  The ones on my '70 have a flat end which is why you have to cut them as Ed was saying.
 



 
 
I think its rounded. If you look at the first pic in the Linkage sway bar, in my post, you can see it goes into another bushing. I would assume its round. but i cant tell at this point. it may be flat too.

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5
© 2008-2014 Steve Hobby • © 2015 Allpar, LLC