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Messages - Gary Buckley

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General Tech- - BRAKES / Poor Brake Pedal
« on: March 19, 2012, 03:08:23 PM »
I was contacted by the supplier today and they told me the MC does not have residual valves built in.He said where I am using it as non power brakes that it can be used for drum to drum,drum to disc or disc to disc.I asked him if it had a proportioning valve  and he didn't answer that.I went out today and switched the two lines around on the MC.For some reason I feel like the brake pedal has more travel now.I took the car for a run around the block and it will definitely pump up to give me a good stop.I am going to bleed the circuit again maybe tomorrow evening because I probably picked up some air
 when I had the lines off even though I didn't lose any fluid.I also removed the cover from the MC and slowly pushed the pedal down a few times .There was hardly any movement in the front section but the rear which would be a normal front on one mounted on the firewall erupted 4 inches when slowly pushing on the pedal.Not sure what was happening here as I was just experimenting.

General Tech- - BRAKES / Poor Brake Pedal
« on: March 18, 2012, 05:37:38 PM »
I removed the boot tonight from the dual master and got my wife to push on the pedal.It is pushing the plunger in between 1/2 and 5/8 of a inch and bottoms out.The cylinder seems to be about 7/8 to 1 "in Dia. Its hard to get a good visual on it being where it is.After about 4 pumps I have not a bad pedal but it wont last.Next time I push it down it is low again.

General Tech- - BRAKES / Poor Brake Pedal
« on: March 18, 2012, 04:50:20 PM »
At this time I am awaiting an answer from the company that I purchased the brake system from. In their diagram they show drum to drum with a dual master,with the Line closest to push rod feeding rear brakes.The info I read online says that a firewall mounted dual master line closest to push rod feeds front.Another article I read says that a master cylinder used for drum to drum has equal compartments and doesn't make any difference,not like one designed for disc to drum .Also they recommend using a metering valve with the drum to drum insed f a proportioning valve.I really don't know at this time what I purchased.It came from Pirate jacks and was a complete pedal included assembly.I have it plumbed now that the line closest to the push rod is going to my front.

General Tech- - BRAKES / Poor Brake Pedal
« on: March 18, 2012, 08:39:30 AM »
Hi Again.I just measured the original mastercyclinder bore and it is about 1 1/8 inches in dia and the stroke is an inch.I will have to jack the car up later and measure mine .I know my stroke is only 1/2 and inch for sure.

General Tech- - BRAKES / Poor Brake Pedal
« on: March 18, 2012, 06:51:17 AM »
Hi everyone .Well I have tried bleeding again.As suggested I bled the system using the no pump theory and at the same time I elavated the vehicle in favor of the master cyclinder as its under the floor.When bleeding I noticed that I had some pedal in the rear because of the pedal dropping when opening the bleeder screw.No air came out with ten bleeds per right wheel.I then proceeded to do the same on the front .When opening up the bleeder screw here I have fluid coming out but almost just a gravity flow and no rush of fluid.Also no pedal drop after ten bleeds per wheel.At the end of the bleeding session i have no more pedal than before and noticed no air coming out.When I had the front drums off adjusting the front shoes ,I noticed that there are very large wheel cyclinders on the front.Is it possible that they are too big for my master cyclinder I purchased? The rear Ford cyclinders are normal size compared to the original 1941 Chrysler cyclinders on the front.Thanks again

General Tech- - BRAKES / Poor Brake Pedal
« on: March 13, 2012, 08:27:05 PM »
Thanks for the info.I pretty well did all the above.Bled throughly 3 times.When I was bleeding them the last time yesterday my son had mentioned that the pedal didnt drop at all when I opened the front bleeders.Some fluid did come out when I loosened the bleeder.I find that most of the pedal when pumped up is Back brakes.The reason being ,When I had my son pumpup the pedal he said that it would go to the floor when I opened the rear bleeder.I also left a pic of my car in a folder Thanks again

General Tech- - BRAKES / Poor Brake Pedal
« on: March 12, 2012, 07:05:10 PM »
Hi .Can anyone give me a heads up as to what might be wrong that I cannot get a good pedal on my brakes.I have a 1941 Chrysler royal and I purchased a dual mastercyclinder set up from Pirate jacks.I did everything they explained with drum brakes but It still takes about 4 pumps for a good pedal.I have bled the master cyclinder before installing and have bled the system 3 times.I have residual valves front and back I have factory front setup and a 9" ford setup in the rear.The unit I purchased came with the pedal and is designed for under the floor.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Heater and Wiper motor sizes
« on: March 11, 2012, 08:12:22 AM »
Can anyone tell me what size I might have for electrical motors on my 1941 Chrysler royal.I have converted the car to 12 volt and need to know what size reducer I need for each.Ebay sells some made in the USA 1 ohm and some 1.5 ohms  The later are said to be for 4 amps and 25 watts.Thanks Gary

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / My Gas Gauge Is On The Bum
« on: August 11, 2011, 08:39:33 AM »
From info I gathered this morning the 2 wires are 1=  the hot and the other = the pulse line running back to the guage. I ran a seperate ground and the guage goes up and down  but it is defenitely not reading acturite.I installed the unit back in the tank and it now works but like I said ,it is reading al\\ biy high.I might order a new unit anyhow. Thanks for the help

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / My Gas Gauge Is On The Bum
« on: August 11, 2011, 03:21:33 AM »
On my 2 wire sending unit ,Is one ground or do I have to run a seperate ground and attach it to the sending unit when I have it out of the tank to test it?

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / My Gas Gauge Is On The Bum
« on: August 10, 2011, 05:13:36 PM »
Ok since my last post I went out to the garage and  ran a coupe of tests. If I ground the second wire to the sending unit as suggested , The gas gauge goes up to 7/8 on the guage.This is the highest it has ever gone when the car is full of gas. Second test was to connect the 2 wires on the sending unit together and I got the same results so my ground must be ok as with the guage I guess. I removed the float and attached the 2 wires on it and moving it up and down I get no signal to my guage.So are we safe to assume I need a sending unit and float combo? thanks for the help.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / My Gas Gauge Is On The Bum
« on: August 10, 2011, 04:28:16 PM »
When you say ground the wire to the sending unit ,what wire are you speaking of. There are 2 wires on the sending unit.I am assuming you mean the noneground wire.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / My Gas Gauge Is On The Bum
« on: August 10, 2011, 02:25:01 PM »
Can anyone help me out with my gas gauge  issues Please.This past weekend while on a cruise My gas gauge in my 1941 chrysler royal started acting up.First time I looked at it, it was fine ,next time it was past the full.Wasnt long when it came back to normal and then sometime later down below empty it went.This basically took place all day and now it is staying below the empty.I checked at the tank for a ground and it seems fine  and the other connection at the tank looks fine also .I really dont know what to check for other that the ground.Any help would be appreciated.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Sound Break Up IN stereo
« on: July 30, 2011, 07:54:38 AM »
Polaraco I would be very interested in the inverter if you have the info Thanks Gary

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Sound Break Up IN stereo
« on: July 30, 2011, 07:52:40 AM »
Ok I have trouble shot this system from one end to the other. When the radio is playing  I defenitely pick up some engine sound but on cd mode nothing . As far as the sound breaking up I have iliminated it to EMF.Electrical Magnetic Frequency. If I keep the speaker wires away from the firewall I have no issues. Anyone have any ideas as to overcome the EMF issue. Thanks for all the input.

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