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Messages - Gary Buckley

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 7
1
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Dodge Electronic ignition issues
« on: May 03, 2012, 05:25:36 PM »
I am running 12 volts from the keyed ignition through a ballast.I have my electronic system wired properly except for the so called shunt wire that dodge used.Sorry I never mentioned the ballast Dana as I thought by mentioning ignition  it would cover  it.Polaraco I will look into the relay thing.Thanks for all the input guys






2
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Dodge Electronic ignition issues
« on: May 03, 2012, 02:23:18 AM »
I dont understand why it wont feed back from the coil.The 2 wires in question that are connected to the non powered side of my push button are the starter and the coil.I also have a wire from my ignition switch to the coil for continous running.What stops the flow of whatever it is for voltage from the ignition feed from feeding back to the starter.



3
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Dodge Electronic ignition issues
« on: May 02, 2012, 12:54:05 PM »
Dana there seems to be a bit of confusion here.What I want to do is use the starter button for two purposes.One to turn the starter and  secondly to give my coil a 12 volt shunt when starting only.I know when I let up on the starter button all power from the button will be severed but I will still have  power at the coil from the ballast which is keeping the car running.My question is How to stop the voltage at the coil from feeding back to the starter since the shunt wire which is attached to the coil is also attached to the same spot on the push button with the starter wire..I am using the original key switch which is either in the on 'off or acc position.It is not a spring loaded type  .



4
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Dodge Electronic ignition issues
« on: May 01, 2012, 02:45:20 PM »
No  Dana power won`t go to the coil after letting up on the starter push button but won`t the power from the ballast to the coil follow the push button wire and then follow the starter wire that is also on the push button.If I have 2 wires on the positive of the coil power has to flow back up the wire to the pushbutton



5
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Dodge Electronic ignition issues
« on: May 01, 2012, 01:14:50 AM »
Dana I was just  kidding about the Nascar thing. I really want to wire it into my push starter button .This is where the Diode comes in.The car is now running and starts up fine.Last week it was a different story.I have changed the module and pickup coil so far and after doing this it worked fine for 1 day and the next it went back to its old tricks of firing when I turn the key off or take power away from the module,whatever I try at the time.I even replaced the distributor out with my points one Friday and the car fires right up everytime.I basically am still trouble shooting this darn electronic ignition I purchased new from a speed shop.I was also told to put the module inside the car to keep it cooler.This is my first try at a dodge running gear in an old car and I am getting frustrated with the system.I will install the shunt wire and move the module if it will help but right now it starts fine with no shunt wire to the coil and the module under the hood.Its like the weather.



6
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Dodge Electronic ignition issues
« on: April 30, 2012, 07:13:08 PM »
Ok It looks like I might have to join the Nascar circuit.If I use my starter button to feed the starter and temperarely send 12 volts to the coil ,can I install a diode in the line to the coil to stop the 7 or 9 volts coming from the ballast to the coil from flowing back to the starter?



7
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Dodge Electronic ignition issues
« on: April 30, 2012, 03:30:27 PM »
I was told by a Dodge mechanic that My 1941 Chrysler with a 318 engine with electronic ignition will start better if I install what I believe he called a shunt wire to the coil.It is suppose to give me 12 volts to the coil when starting.he said to purchase a starter relay and use it.I have it but for the life of me I can't see how it can be used for anything other than a starter relay.I have read an article tonight stating that dodge had some type of ballast bypass built into their key switch in the 70's.I am using my original key and starter button on the 41 .Can anyone explain to me how I might send 12 volts to the coil for startup only Thanks



8
Tech- - Engine / Still Have Engine Starting Issues
« on: April 19, 2012, 03:01:24 PM »
Oh I forgot to mention.I am not shaking my wires to get the car to start.I have removed the 12 volt wire for the module from the 12 volt side of the ballast and I am simply touching it on the 12 volt side of the ballast while turning the engine over.It gives the same effect as turning the key off and on while turning the engine over with the original starter button on the dash.I have the module and the ballast mounted beside each other on the firewall and I simply reach in the drivers window and push on the starter button.The only time I have no power on the ballast is when I turn the key off.



9
Tech- - Engine / Still Have Engine Starting Issues
« on: April 19, 2012, 02:52:25 PM »
I am not applying any other power to the low volt side of the ballast.I apply power to the 12 volt side via the ignition.I only checked the power on both sides of the ballast while turning the engine over and I do indeed have the appropiate voltage.There is not a wiring issue with the car.One wire from the key switch which is seperate from the starter button to the 12 volt side of ballast.I also have the hot wire from the module to the 12 volt side of ballast which is the way it called for in the instructions..There are no other wires involved except the ones associated with the distributor and the coil  .This car works excellent except when this situation occurs.I don"t even have the main power attached to the starter.My coil is a 12 volt coil of course.Is there a difference in 12 volt coils from a points distributor and a electronic one?Thanks for the input



10
Tech- - Engine / Still Have Engine Starting Issues
« on: April 18, 2012, 04:51:48 AM »
Hi again everyone.I have a 318 engine (1985 era)installed in my 41 chrysler coupe and I am having starting issues still.I replaced my key switch and my control module ,which was new with another new one  and I still have the same issue happening.Car decides not to start.I have fire on both sides of the ballast.If I touch the control module wire to power while turning engine over it will kick.If I do that enough times it will start and once running it will startup every time instantly.What happens when I was turning the key off and on to get the same effect as touching the power wire on my module to power is that the car will kick when the key hits the off position and when I turn the key back on the engine will actually fire without pushing the starter button.Oh by the way I have left the original starter button in the car so the key and starter are seperate.If the rotor is pointing at a cylinder with open valves it will fire up through the carb.If not it will actually turn the engine over a slight amount .Any ideas as to why it will fire when applying power to the module and also when turning key off..The distrubutor and module are both new.I have checked my ground and all connections.When it works ,it works excellent.Any chance that the pickup in the distributor would cause this?Also I am using a coil that I used with my points distrubtor.Is there any difference in coils for electronic ignition?Thanks again for any input.



11
Tech- - Engine / Engine starting issues
« on: March 30, 2012, 10:50:16 AM »
I lucked in yesterday on ebay 45.00 shipped to Canada .NOS  I didnt really need the exact one with the built in wire but the price is right and my lock and key will fit as its the same part number as mine



12
Tech- - Engine / Engine starting issues
« on: March 30, 2012, 10:48:20 AM »




13
Tech- - Engine / Engine starting issues
« on: March 29, 2012, 01:59:28 AM »
Polaraco the key switch did have its own built in wire that runs to the fire wall and indeed it is old and  someone has previously patched it up at the back of the key switch with clear silicone to stop it from arcing on the switch body .I still cant explain why I could create this scenario everytime by pumping  fuel into the engine causing the engine to not start on the first kick and then having no fire .I suspect it is exactly as Dana stated because I indeed put splices from the module and ballast resister to the old wire coming from the key switch.When  I removed the key switch the problem was still there. I had cut the wire from the back of the old switch and utilized it with the new key switch not knowing that the wire itself might be the culprit.After running a new wire from the module and the ballast resister to the new key switch it works great now.When I said that I just wired the car LOL' I was making a joke on me not you.Thanks again.



14
Tech- - Engine / Engine starting issues
« on: March 28, 2012, 02:31:11 PM »
I just did  LOL.





15
Tech- - Engine / Engine starting issues
« on: March 28, 2012, 12:27:36 PM »
Ok I am back.The key switch has one main wire coming out of the back and goes to the firewall on this car and actually connected to the bottom of the original coil.First time i ever saw a coil with a + connection on the bottom but thats what it was in 1941.I utilized this same wire and spliced it outside the firewall and sent one to the 12volt side of the ballast resister and the other to my Orange module.While I was playing with this one wire on the back of the key switch the car would start but afeter a while I noticed a spark so I removed the silicone someone had put on the back of the switch and there was bare wire touching the body of the switch.I removed the key switch and used another universal one I had in my box.I wired it up so as to still use the original push button on the dash for my starter .I turned the engine over holding the hot wire from the old ignition switch on the ignition hot and nothing .so while I was turning the engine over I touched the hot wire to hot off and on and it would fire up or at least kick and if i put it on and off enough times it would stay going but unlike before it wouldn't start unless I used the same method so now something has changed since I removed the key switch.I went out on the firewall and removed the tape from where I spliced the module to the hot wire coming from the original key switch and ran a jumper wire to the ballast resister.I then ran the module wire to the jumper and presto Fired right up.I ran a new wire into the car to the key switch and everything now is a O k .Not sure why I could create the scenario by flooding the engine but Now I can pump all the fuel I want and it will still fire up.I defintely have a  faulity key switch which I have to replace as the universal one won't fit into the factory hole and I want to keep the dash original.Thanks for the troubleshooting guys.



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