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Messages - Bob Schaefer

Pages: 1 ... 6 7 [8] 9
106
Tech- - Engine / Is a 65 Chrysler Oil Pan one year only?
« on: June 23, 2010, 08:26:13 AM »
Based on the discussion on the post I made, the oil pan with the 699 stamping is the same, and I see one on EBay....
 
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=mopar+oil+pan&_sacat=0&_odkw=mopar+oil+pan+187&_osacat=0&bkBtn=&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313
 
$30 plus $25 shipping... Looks a somewhat well used, but see what you think...
 
Bob

107
Tech- - Engine / Is a 65 Chrysler Oil Pan one year only?
« on: June 23, 2010, 08:13:36 AM »
I knew I had seen those pictures before... :-)

108
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / '69 Monaco w/ Electronic Ignition
« on: June 23, 2010, 08:08:37 AM »
Thanks to both of you.. I will toss it, and be done with it...

109
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / '69 Monaco w/ Electronic Ignition
« on: June 23, 2010, 05:18:31 AM »
Here's the next question regarding the '69 Monaco Wagon:




 
I have replaced the igniton parts, including Coil, Cap, Rotor, Wires, Plugs, Ignition Control Module, and Ballast Resistor. The reason being, it was getting sort of a miss, and since I just got the thing, I wanted to have all new anyway... so I know when it was done.
 
The car runs a ton better than it was, because one of the wires had, at some point, spent too much time near the manifold... this is good.
So the question part is... Does the electronic ignition still require the little capacitor that attaches to the coil, and is bolted to the ignition coil bracket? 
 
I noticed that you can buy an Ignition Coil Capacitor from Rock Auto for a '69, but they didn't have electronic ignition. So I looked at later models, like a '75 Charger, and they don't list that capacitor. Summit Racing doesn't seem to list it at all. This would ordinarily tell me that I don't need it, but I don't want to assume...
 
The wire is a little brittle on it, and I had to strip it and reconnect it, so if I still need it, I will order one for the '69 from Rock Auto, unless there is a different one I need, and someone can tell me where to get it.
 
Thanks, as always...
 
Bob

110
Tech- - Engine / Spark Plugs
« on: June 18, 2010, 03:28:11 PM »
Well, I was trying to utilize the search feature before posting a question... but I ended up getting the RJ12YC's afterall...
 
Thanks,
 
Bob

111
Tech- - Engine / Spark Plugs
« on: June 18, 2010, 09:04:49 AM »
I read a thread over on CBody Dry Dock, which discussed spark plug choices for our Big Blocks. This thread was specific to a 440, but seemed to apply well to a 383, too...
 
The question I have relates primarily to the reach of the threads... I see that the stock replacement is a Champion RJ12YC, which has a 3/8" reach, but there was also a mention of the RN12YC, which looks like it has a 3/4" reach.
 
So, the questions are... Is there an advantach to the longer reach?
 
I presume, since the illustrious leader of this forum is the one that mentioned the RN12YC, that there is not a problem with having longer thread reach.
 
I will be picking up the RN12YC today, but I just wondered what went into the decission making process. Just trying to learn as much as I can.
 
Thanks,
 
Bob

112




Alright, I will jump in on this....
 
1-1969 Dodge Polara Wagon - 383HP with plenty of blood and sweat. Still miss this one.
2-1963 Pontiac Catalina - 389 2bbl with no rustm and minimal work needed.
3-1974 Chevy Caprice Classic Convertible - Needed all new floors and a new top
4-1975 Triumph TR7 - Yea, a 2L 4cyl, but totally fun to drive.
 
All ditched while I was making minimal $$$, and couldn't support the habbit.
 
Now I have my wagon again, so I get to make up for it a little...
 
Bob

113
Tech- - STEERING WHEELS AND SUSPENSION / 69 steering wheel
« on: June 17, 2010, 08:48:46 AM »
I found what I believe to be the right part. It's part # 2822126, and I ordered one from EBay for $25, so if it's wrong, it won't break me... I think it's called a clockspring, or just a horn switch...
Anyway.. thank you.
Bob

114
Tech- - STEERING WHEELS AND SUSPENSION / 69 steering wheel
« on: June 17, 2010, 07:24:24 AM »
I looked, but I was looking for the wheel... Is there a date range and part name that I can look for? I will get started, and see what pops up. Presumeably, if I find the black piece, then I can straiten the metal part out manually...
Thank you,
 
Bob

115
Tech- - STEERING WHEELS AND SUSPENSION / 69 steering wheel
« on: June 17, 2010, 04:15:41 AM »
Ok, here are a couple of shots of the horn switch...
 

 

 
Thanks for your time,
 
Bob

116
Tech- - STEERING WHEELS AND SUSPENSION / 69 steering wheel
« on: June 16, 2010, 06:44:41 PM »
Yep, I got the wrong one, alright... but once I hooked it up right, it worked fine.
 
I will take some pics of the switch once my phone charges up... It won't flash until the battery charges mire.

117
Tech- - STEERING WHEELS AND SUSPENSION / 69 steering wheel
« on: June 16, 2010, 06:12:54 PM »
Ok, I admit it... I am an idiot.
 
When I picked up my '69 Monaco Wagon, it had a Grant(I think) steering wheel. It was too small, and I could not see the speedometer through it. Since the original wheel came with the car, I went and put it on. It was nice, since I could see the speedometer, and it really just felt right.
 
Thing is, when I put it on, I neglected to verify that the wheels were pointing strait forward.
 
No problem... I bought a steering wheel puller.
 
Now for the idiot part... Instead of putting the hooks under the base of the steering wheel, I hooked them under the metal part of the hub of the wheel, where the horn hooks up. Having done that, when I went to turn the puller, I bent the disk that makes elecrical contact for the horn to work. Go ahead.... "Bob... You're an idiot...."
 
So, then I put the hooks under the base of the wheel, and got it off, so I could put the Grant back on, until I can find a wheel where I can salvage the horn switch....
 
Now for the question... is there any help out there for me? I don't mean the idiot part... I used a hammer for that... I mean, does anyone have a steering wheel that I could buy, which has a horn switch that will work with my wheel?
 
Thanks,
 
Bob

118
Tech- - Engine / Timing Set...
« on: June 16, 2010, 09:14:13 AM »
That looks very much like the one I got for the previous car, and exactly like what I was hoping to get. In fact, I did look that  up on Rock Auto, but I wanted to make sure I was getting the right thing.
So thanks for the confirmation.
 
Bob

119
Tech- - Engine / Timing Set...
« on: June 16, 2010, 06:25:01 AM »
Way back when I had my first '69 Dodge Wagon, I had the fun experience of stripping my timing gear while the car was running (parked, fortunately). That's when I learned that the stock gears had some nylon coating on them, which is what came out in my oil...
 
So, I purchaced a timing set, with gears and a chain at the local parts store. I got this decent looking set of gears that were solid, with a single row of thck teeth. What I see on most of on the Summit Racing site look like the larger gear has 2 sets of narrow teeth, instead of 1 set of thick, heavy duty teeth.
 
What I am doing now, is getting together some items, so that I can do some work on the wagon, which I would rather do proactively, instead of how I had to do it the first time. These include, but may not be limited to, timing set, water pump, and all the necessary gaskets and seals, and so on...
 
The main question is... What is the best timing set to use for normal driving, but with the occasional lack of ability to keep my foot out of it?
 
 It will remain primarily stock, so I don't know if I need a Double Roller set, or what I should get. I have the repair manual for the car, so I have access to all the torque specs, and I do have help available if needed. Again, I have done this successfully before, but I don't have the formal education to know why to select one product over another, and it was over 25 years ago.... Man, am I getting old.
 
Also, based on all that I need to pull to get this done, is there any use to replacing lifters, push rods, etc? Other items in the general vicinity, top end wise?
 
Thank you,
 
Bob
 

120
Tech- - Engine / Heat Riser...
« on: June 16, 2010, 05:49:00 AM »
Ok, so now for the part where Bob learns something....
 
Does that heat riser only assist in warming up the car?
 
I won't be driving the wagon during the Chicago Winter until I have all rust issues resolved, since anyone that has driven here, knows that the salt is a killer...
 
So, assuming I am able to ensure that this stays open, whether by cutting it out, and having the holes filled, or by using a wire to hold it... what are the implications once it gets colder? Will it just take longer to warm up, or will there be other problems?
 
I don't seem to recall this being too bad on my first wagon, since we had problems with it sticking shut, and we got it open, and wired it with a coat hanger.  Problem is, that was 25 years ago, so I may be foggy, and that engine had more of my blood and sweat put into it...
 
Thanks,
 
Bob

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