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Messages - Dan Cluley

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MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / MBONB
« on: October 14, 2007, 12:51:59 AM »
Well the good news is, once I got the fuel sender (with new sock) back in I've driven about 500 miles without major incident.  :)   The gas gauge seems to be dead on accurate.  (the sender did seem to stick a little down around the bottom 1-2 gallon or two, so I'll have to watch that, but don't usually let it get that low)
With a little more experience, I don't think it's as slow as originally stated.   With the rather loud exhaust, I really wasn't using nearly as much of the throttle as it seemed.    It does have a little hesitation/stumble part way into the throttle, and this is much more noticable when the engine is cold.   The choke seems to be working properly, so I'm guessing the carb needs some attention.  (considering the cruddy old gas that get left in it, I can't imagine why?  )
Until I get the tach situation worked out -
I'm not going to spend too much time messing with tuning, so I haven't cleaned the timing mark off.  It is either set at 0 or 10 BTC, (I can see the mark, just not read the numbers)  The vacuum and mechanical advance are working.
Shifting feels ok, but I will definitely check the kickdown.
Replaced the cap/rotor, plugs and wires.  Passenger side plugs are great, between the MC and the heat stove, the drivers side are possibly worse than the 383 in the Chrysler.  Didn't help that the old ones seemed to have been installed by Jocko the Ringling Bros Strongman...  15" breaker bar to get plugs loose?
Replaced those bad bushings.   It'd be nice to have a hydraulic press in the driveway, but I was able to do it with the 1/2" threaded rod and sockets/pipe fittings trick.  Looks like there is a little play in the pitman arm, so that's next, but it feels much more stable over rough pavement.  At some point, I want to add a sway bar.  This thing rolls WAY more than the Chrysler.
The leak in the exhaust has gotten worse.  Talked to my local guy, and as I suspected,  Fabricating a new Y pipe would actually be more than putting duals on.  So should happen later this week.  Does $250-300 seem reasonable?
Most of the floor patching is done.  I REALLY wish I had the patience, equipment, and mentor that CBarge has.  (If you guys weren't 10 hours away, I'd be stocking up on beer bribes  ) so my work isn't too pretty, but it is plugging the holes.
New wiper pivot seals in, and replaced the broken plastic bushing/connctor things in the linkages.  Replaced the non-broken one too, just as soon not have to work with that  mess again any time soon.  New blades, and I've got working wipers.  Yay Me. :) 
All the windows have been adjusted/lubed, and go up and down pretty nicely. :)
Front doors open/close and lock/unlock smoothly.
Right rear door, which didn't open at all from outside, now usually does.  The mechanism that the handle pushes on got bent at some point, and I have almost got it back right.
I need a new can of spray lithium lubricant  (and possibly a prescription for lithium pills  )
Current issue is temperature.  The gauge moves a little as the engine warms up, but never really goes past the very bottom mark.  Coolant is at the top of the rad, and nice and green.  There is some in the overflow tank, but haven't seen the level change.  So I'm not sure if the gauge has a problem, the sending unit has a problem, or maybe the thermostat is stuck open?  I do get some heat from the vents inside, but don't know how much to expect. (don't know when/if the heater core has been flushed either)
Still no more pictures, but the only thing I've changed outside is replacing the broken markers, and replacing the missing antenna.

MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / MBONB
« on: September 24, 2007, 02:49:43 AM »
I’m hoping that the exhaust pipe is good enough to get to next year, and they can just replace the muffler and tailpipe, but we’ll see.
I’ve heard that about the 2bbl vs 4bbl but never actually seen documentation of anybody trying both on the same car.  If I do it, will definitely keep track.
Actually I got most of the scribbling off.  All it took was an hour at the car wash and a couple of Mr Clean Magic Erasers.
I don’t have a parts book yet, but RockAuto  shows Spicer #5601007 or AC Delco #45G8007 for the upper bushings if that tells you anything.  Thanks for checking.
It’s actually a ’74.  The good news is no Cats.  J   Between looking at the FSM and poking at the engine I think I’ve got most of it figured.  There is a temp control thing in the aircleaner that controls the flap that lets warm air in to the snorkel (once I replace the missing duct)  There’s some sort of control thing on the side of the aircleaner that does something mysterious with the line to the vacuum advance on the distributor.  That has been bypassed.  Finally there is a temp control in the top radiator tank that is supposed to control the EGR valve in the intake.  That is all just loose (pretty sure I’m getting a vacuum leak from that line)
My thought is to check to see if any of the stuff actually functions properly.  If so try the motor both with and without and see what difference it makes.  If they don’t work, will just bypass them properly.  If I’m going to drive it this winter, pretty sure I will want the warm air duct working.
Oh, and not too worried about SCMODS, but then my violations list is single digit rather than triple. ;)

MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / MBONB
« on: September 23, 2007, 12:50:24 AM »
The little I've driven it, it seems to be pretty slow around town, but cruise on the freeway with no effort.  Don't know if that is the rear end (says it's a 2.76) or the motor. 
Keep in mind the only thing I've done to the motor is check that it had oil, and pull one spark plug.  No idea if the timing is right, and not sure if any of the emmisions stuff is hooked up right/working.  There is definitely one loose hose probably causing a vacuum leak.
Maybe I should just swap in a 383 with a blower on top.  Saw that in a '69 Dart this evening.
Since the exhaust needs replacing, I'm going to see how much more to go dual, but we'll see.  Not gonna chop up perfectly good fenders to put headers in!  (might make front end alignments easier though? )
Might go 4bbl at some point, but not soon.
I actually like those factory wheelcovers, but needs nicer whitewalls all around.  Same bolt pattern as the Chrysler, so it would be nice to standardize on one tire for both cars, but I suspect the Chrysler ones will be too big.
The "frame" seems really solid (that's a nice change) but will definitely check the T-bar mounts, I have heard that is an issue with the A's
Looks like most of the water has been coming in through the drivers side wiper pivot.  Gonna fix that and then back to the car wash.
D Cluley2007-09-23 05:53:03

MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / MBONB
« on: September 22, 2007, 12:29:53 AM »
That's Mini-Barge On No Budget 
See what you started Lea.
Although the Convertible still needs LOTS of body work, and has a couple of minor issues, unless something actually breaks, it's just going to get driven as-as for a while.
This fall, all the time and money (right, what money?) is going into the new Dart.

Things done so far -
Removed the remains of the vinyl top
Replaced the front brake hoses (hey the wheels go around now.  )
Replaced the burned out light bulbs (everything electrical works except the drivers front marker light which is completely smashed)
Removed nasty old carpeting to find out how much rust in floor
Cut/fitted patch for left rear floor
Put in C-body sized front floor mat to cover holes in front floor
Removed wiper mechanism and ordered new seals (see above )
Replaced dead battery
Temporarily installed old style '65 voltage regulator to keep replaced battery charged
Replaced fuel filter and rubber lines
Added second filter before pump
Drained gas from tank (they said it was running a few weeks before I bought it, didn't say it was running on the same gas as when parked 2 years previously!)
Cleaned sending unit and ordered replacement for MIA sock.
Major Projects that need to get done before Winter
Finish floor repairs
Deal with the little bit of rust in C-pillars (seems to be where the seam is part way up the side) and paint roof
Pass side upper control arm bushings
Wow, look how much shorter the second list is...
No, I'm not buying it either.

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