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Messages - Dan Cluley

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General Tech / Trouble with newer van
« on: January 24, 2008, 04:02:24 PM »
Any idea where exactly that sensor is located? 
At this point, I'm 90% sure it's just stuff built up in the fuel injection system.  Got a can of Throttle body cleaner,  and using that has made a definite improvement. 

General Tech / Trouble with newer van
« on: January 16, 2008, 05:16:09 PM »
Actually you can definitely hear air sucking.  Almost sounds like it's gasping.

It uses some oil, but leakage may well account for it.

General Tech / Trouble with newer van
« on: January 16, 2008, 02:11:07 AM »
Looking for suggestions/advice concerning one of the vans at work.  It is a ’97 Dodge 3500 with 5.9 V8
The last week or two it has been randomly stalling or nearly stalling when idling.  It is fine 90% of the time, but every once in a while either while stopped or when moving but foot off the accelerator the RPMs will drop noticeably, something in the exhaust rattles and if you don’t give it some gas the oil pressure drops.  It will sometimes pick back up and be fine, or it will just stall.  Touch the gas pedal and RPMs pick right up and everything is fine.
For some time it has also been hard to start on occasion.  It will crank fine, but not start until you depress the accelerator part way (not all the way, like it’s flooded, but just giving it a little gas)
The owner was asking if I had any idea what was wrong.  Since the check engine light is on, I suggested taking it and getting the codes read, which he had already done.
Oxygen sensor #1 in bank #1 is reading too rich
Random cylinder misfires
Misfire in cyl #1
Misfire in cyl #2
Misfire in cyl #3
On the surface, it would seem like the O2 sensor is going bad, but why does it only happen at idle?
I just don’t know enough about computer control or fuel injection to do more than make guesses. 

General BS and Laughs / Rail Road Bridges Forgotten Icons
« on: January 12, 2008, 11:07:09 PM »
Tunkhannock is about 10-15 miles North of Scranton.  I think the village right below the bridge makes it seem even larger than it already is.
Matt,  That picture from your father is really amazing.
I finally looked up Cassandra.  I think the closest I've been is Lilly.  Most trips we've followed the tracks to Cresson, but then 22 back to Pittsburgh.  Did go up through Indiana and Punxutawney to I-80 once.  I suspect that is a very scenic drive in the daytime, but after dark, those back roads are  not much fun for a flatlander.

General BS and Laughs / Rail Road Bridges Forgotten Icons
« on: January 10, 2008, 07:30:47 PM »
Is that Paulins Kill Viaduct on the old Lackawanna?  It looks like the same style as the Tunkhannock Viaduct up by Scranton.  That one is HUGE.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Cold Light
« on: January 02, 2008, 07:40:45 PM »
Quote from: POLARACO
*Shakes his head*
Those thingies are bulb sockets and you can still buy them.
Yeah, but you better have a part number, cause if you try to describe them to the parts guy at the dealer, they look at you like you've got a third eye in the middle of your forehead.  (or maybe my local Chrysler dealer just sucks.  )
Arlen, I should have some extras, so remind me to check if you want a couple.

MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / The USS Big Blue
« on: December 24, 2007, 02:42:43 AM »
Funny Bob.   If I was gonna do that, I could have saved the $30 and just used scraps of speaker wire I've already got.
I will take a look when I get a chance, but this is what I recall.  
Most of the brittle wires seemed to be in the harness where it runs over the top of the engine on the passenger side. (the most heat, I'm assuming)  The wires that go to the bulkhead connector got spliced 9-12" from the firewall (solder and shrinktube)  with new connectors at the engine end.  Wires that stay under the hood (alt to volt regulator, coil to ballast resistor, etc) got completely replaced with new connectors at both ends.  The oil pressure sender and the neutral switch had oddball connectors or accessibility issues, so got left alone.
Everything then got run through split loom tubing.  It's not factory, but it is tidy, and everything works.  :)
The '65s had a better design for the main power wires through the bulkhead connector than the later cars, or I might have done more with those as well.

MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / The USS Big Blue
« on: December 22, 2007, 10:59:50 PM »
Quote from: carrman
4. Replace wiring running to coil, dist, and temp sensor.  It's really brittle and the insulation is going away.
I remember doing that on mine.  Started out one afternoon to see why the cold light stopped working.  6 hours and $30 at the hardware store, and about 90% of the underhood wiring got replaced.

General BS and Laughs / Show us yer faces! Let's meet!
« on: December 13, 2007, 07:18:44 PM »
Woodward Cruise 2005

MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / MBONB
« on: November 17, 2007, 01:05:15 AM »
Speedometer -----------------
I used the charts here -  which seem to have the same basic info. 
Of course, I'm not sure if the speedo pinion has ever been changed.  The door sticker indicates the original tire size as D78-14  which seems to fall in size inbetween 185/70 and 195/70  (there was one of each of these in the trunk) which are smaller than the 205/75 that I replaced with 215/75   (you can't tell the player's without a scorecard)
All I know is at this point, the odometer is only off 2-3% which is close enough for me.
Now logically the speedometer should be off by the same percentage as the odometer, right?  So, since mine is off around 11% (at 60mph) I'm still assuming there's a separate issure with the speedometer itself. 
Fun with Fuel  ----------------------------
Back in September,  before I discovered the missing sock on the gas sending unit, the car died on my about 10 miles out of town.  So had the fun of getting towed home at 3am. 
Draining out the old/new gas mix and replacing the sock seemed to have mostly taken care of the issue.  I'm still getting a certain amount of crud in the filter (I added one before the pump) so it probably ought to have a new tank, but I figure I can replace a lot of filters for the cost of  a tank.  The filter after the pump is staying clear, so looks like the first one is doing it's job.
However it died again last Saturday night.  Not being on the freeway this time, I did a little more investigation.  Cranking the motor caused fuel to come out of the line at the carb, but it wouldn't start, and working the accelerator pump didn't cause the usual squirt.
Called the tow company, and after a while the driver calls back to verify my location.  His first question.  "Is this the same Dart I towed last month?"  -  Great... I know have my own personal tow driver.
Well, rebuilding a BBD is just a easy as everyone said. :) 
There was some sludge buildup in the bottom of the float bowls, but the rest didn't look bad.  So, I don't really know what clogged, but it seems to be working fine now.  Also, thanks to Steve, it has the proper choke pull-off now. :)
Adventures in Audio will have to wait for another day.

MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / MBONB
« on: November 03, 2007, 08:05:16 PM »
The other thing I did this week was switch the tires around.  Not sure what the long term plan is, but for the winter, I have put the 4 fairly new tires from the Chrysler onto the Dart.  It came with a mixed set of 205/75 tires, one of which has a slow leak, and several have balance issues.  The 300 wheels have 215/75 which seem to fit fine, and have a nice set of whitewalls.  I don’t think the Dart wheels are wide enough to put 215s on, and they look a little wide in the front, so will probably eventually get a new set of 205s
Once the new tires were on, I took it for a long enough drive to check the accuracy of the speedometer/odometer.  It’s 100 mile round trip to Grand Rapids, so I went and got dinner at the Steak and Shake on 28th street, and came home.  J
Compared to the mile markers on I-96 the odometer is off by 2%  which I can certainly live with.
 The speedometer is significantly slow however (I was suspicious of this already)  at an indicated speed of 60mph, the car is actually going about 67.  Since the needle is steady, I’m assuming the head unit itself needs cleaning/lubrication?

D Cluley2007-11-04 00:06:33

MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / MBONB
« on: November 03, 2007, 02:14:56 AM »
First off, a rant about the jerk who owns Mason Muffler & Brake.
 I was ready to do the exhaust last week, so stopped by the shop on Thursday morning to set up a time to do it.  His sign says open 8-6 M-F.   After I waste half an hour, he finally rolls in at 8:35.  Tells me he’s booked up for the day but Fri looks ok.  So I tell him I’ll bring it by first thing in the morning.  Friday, he shows up at 8:45.  Points to several other cars out front and says I’ll have to leave it for the day.  Those were dropped off over night and it’s first come, first served.  -- “I stopped taking appointments a long time ago, most people don’t show up anyway.”
Considering the number of other shops in the area, I’d love to know how he gets away with that attitude, but anyway….
Went back to a shop in Lansing that did work on the convertible a few years ago.  Rolled out 3 hours later with a complete set of duals.  Due to cost and design consideration, we went with 1-3/4” pipe from the manifold down past the T-bars (the drivers side is really tight clearance) and then 2” all the way back.  Not quite the recommended 2-1/4”, but still should be a significant upgrade from the original 1-7/8” single pipe, no?
Everything seemed good at first, but once things warmed up (and the trans mount is pretty tired, so I think the motor moves around a little more than it should, I was getting contact with the drivers side T-bar.  A little work at home with the prybar and that’s taken care of.  Still getting a little noise on the drivers side, but I think it’s a slight leak in the manifold or the manifold/head surface.  Definitely much quieter than before.  J

Got the coolant temp questions figured out.  Both the sending unit, and the thermostat were bad.  Ok, the thermostat wasn’t really bad, just vandalized.  The housing was in place, but somebody pulled the guts out of it. Still haven’t had to deal with temps below freezing, but with outside temp in the low 40’s after 15 minutes of driving, it was like an oven in the car.  J

Removed the trim from around the front and rear windows, and got the last of the vinyl top bits off.  Metal seems to be ok around the windows, but there are a couple of rust holes in the outside of the C-pillar (right below the welded seam)  Not sure how much more good weather we’ll have, so for the moment, I just used a wire wheel to grind off the crapper filler job they did over the seam (the A-pillars, didn’t get any at all!) and get to bare metal around the holes.  Hit it with Rust-converter, primer, and spray-bombed the whole top white.  Eventually will re-do the filler to cover the seams, but at least it’s protected.  Even though it’s definitely a 20 ft paint job, it certainly brightens up the look of the car.  J


General Mopar Discussions / AIG Insurance Company is a bunch of Liars!!!
« on: November 02, 2007, 01:12:47 AM »
Good luck Steve.
I'd never thought about it before, but I guess this is one of the benefits of the No-Fault insurance set up here in Michigan.  As long as MY insurance co is ok, I don't have to worry about what the other guy's company thinks.

Tech- - Engine / Difference in Engines
« on: October 24, 2007, 07:37:24 PM »
GT was a manual trans and GTA was an automatic?

MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / MBONB
« on: October 20, 2007, 11:14:42 PM »
Carb -  Getting a working choke pull-off, has actually taken care of most of the problem.  It probably wouldn't hurt to clean/rebuild, but it has moved down the priority list. 
Looking down the throat, when I move the throttle lever, 2 streams of gas shoot out, so I assume the accelerator pump is OK, right?
Kickdown seems to be right, as it matches what Lea said . 
 My morning drive includes a weird uphill entrance ramp that is two lanes that merge into one just before the highway.   Had a Crown Vic crowding me from behind, while the other lane included a flatbed truck loaded with a full basement worth of cement blocks.  So I floored it.  Went into 2nd at exactly 40 (tiny chirp from one of the tires too) and 3rd somewhere between 65-70.
Timing - Ooops   I was assuming the marks were similar to the Chrysler 383.  Once I got it cleaned off, discovered it was set at 10 degrees AFTER tdc!!  Adjusted that to 10 before, and the idle smoothed out quite a bit.  Haven't really noticed much difference while driving though. 
Any suggestions for the easiest way to work with the distributor holddown bolt?  Between the vacuum advance, the coil, the bulkhead, the oil pressure switch, and the heater hoses, it is almost impossible to get a wrench in there. 
D Cluley2007-10-21 04:18:19

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