MoparFins

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

We changed servers, which is good, and lost all passwords, which is bad. See above.

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - Dan Cluley

Pages: 1 2 3 [4]
46
Tech- -BODY / Paint Problem
« on: May 13, 2008, 12:41:07 AM »
I think I may have done something stupid.  The Dart has a lot of minor dents and dings, and it will be a long time (if ever) before it is good enough to spend real money on a real paint job.
 
Much of the original blue has worn off the hood and decklid, so to keep this from getting any worse, I sprayed the hood with a rattle can.  I couldn’t find anything in the duplicolor cans that was even close to the light blue on the car, so I went with Harbor blue from Rustoleum.
 
It actually went on well, and looks good from 20’
My plan was to gradually work around the car, cleaning up any rust spots, and spray it all with the Rustoleum blue.
 
Problem is,  I started filling a hole on the front fender, and when I sprayed some Duplicolor primer over the new blue paint, I got a wrinkly mess.
 
 
At that point it occurred to me that the primer is probably a lacquer, and the Rustoleum is probably an enamel, and that the two kinds of paint don’t always play nice with each other.
 
In the short run, this is not really a problem, (now that I know about it), but my concern is what will happen if I do end up wanting to paint the car properly at some point in the future.
 
My hope is that this happened because the enamel was not fully cured (it had only been on there a couple of days)
 
If not, is there something that can be sprayed over enamel, to allow a lacquer top coat, or would all the enamel have to be stripped off?





 
 

47
General BS and Laughs / Is this a cool neighborhood or what?
« on: May 11, 2008, 12:08:30 AM »
I haven't figured out who, but somebody on my Girlfriend's block drives a 1966 Olds 98.  This was the scene early Saturday morning.





 

48
Tech- - Engine / What heads for 318?
« on: April 29, 2008, 10:04:47 PM »
The Dart has always had some engine vibration, and I finally got around to checking the compression.

#4 is a little low, and #6 has almost none.






 
Putting compressed air into the spark plug holes indicates that the exhaust valves are leaking.
 
Talking with my mechanic friend Kenny, he should be able to fix them, but it will take a while.  He also suggested that he could probably scrounge up another set of heads pretty cheap, so I wouldn't have to have the car all torn apart till they were ready.  Problem is, he is a Ford guy, so the more info I give him, the better this will turn out.
 
A little google work has turned up the fact that I don't want the Magnum style heads.  1992 and newer, right?
 
However most of the other info I was seeing was modifications by "go-fast" guys.  I just need to know what will bolt on and work with what I've got, with minimal hassle.

49
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Power window wiring
« on: April 23, 2008, 07:19:13 PM »
POWER WINDOW WIRING 101
 
Note:  This information is correct to the best of my knowledge,  based on parts from a 1965 Chrysler.  It is possible that other years/models may vary.  Please let me know of any errors.
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A.  Power Feed
 
This is the circuit breaker for the window system.  It is located behind the drivers side kick panel under the dash.  The Positive (+)  power feeds through the breaker and out in two wires one to the Gang switch on the drivers door, and the other which branches out to the 3 single switches at the other window positions.  The ground (-) wire is attached to the body structure with a screw.  The large green wire goes to the cigar lighter in the buddy seat or console.







 

 
To check this area, make sure there is +12v feeding the output wires, and that the – wire is making a good ground connection.
 
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 
 B.  Gang Switch.
 
When the window switch is in the neutral position, the down contact is connected to the (-) contact below it.  When the button is pushed to the down position the tab is depressed and the down contact is no longer touching the (-) contact.  It is now touching the (+) contact which is located underneath.  The pair of contacts to the left are for the Up position of the switch, and work the same way.
 

 
 
This is the backside of the Gang Switch.  The (+) wire feeds the (+) contact on each of the 4 switches, and the (-) wire feeds the pair of (-) contacts on each of the 4 switches.



 
 


 
To test:
 
With the switches in the neutral positions each of the U pins, and each of the D pins should have continuity with the (-) wire pin.  None of the U or D pins should have continuity with the (+) wire pin.
With a switch in the down position, it’s U pin should still have continuity with the (-) wire, but it’s D pin should now have continuity with the (+) wire.
With a switch in the up position it’s U pin has continuity with the (+) wire, and the D pin with the (-)






 

C. Gang switch socket



Check to see that the (-) wire is a good ground connection, and that the (+) wire has power
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 
 
D.  Single Switch Socket
 

 

The wires marked Window go to the window motor.  Ignore them for now.
 
The wires marked (-) from 4 switch are connected to  the U and D pins on the Gang switch.  When the Gang switch for this window is in the neutral position, both of the (-) wires should be a ground connection.  If the Gang switch is in the down position, then one of them will be a (+) feed, while the other one remains (-)  With the Gang switch in the up position they will be reversed.
 
The center wire should be a (+)feed all the time. I believe that the (+) feed for each of the single switches are joined together into one wire inside the main harness near the circuit breaker.  Therefore if there is no (+) feed, but the (-)feeds are ok, that would be a place to check.
 
The Single switch sockets are each connected to the main wiring harness with a 3 prong plug set, so if there is no (+) or  (-) on any of the wires, checking to make sure that plug is tight should probably be the first thing look at.



 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
E.  Single Switch
 
The single switch works basically the same way as the Gang switch, except that the (-) wires are not all connected together.  This allows the Gang switch to switch one of them to a (+) feed, and pass it through to the window motor when you move the window from the drivers door.  When the single switch is used, it sends the (+) feed from the center post to one wire, and one of the two (-) feeds from the Gang switch, to the other.
 

 







 
With the switch in the neutral position the Down window pin should be connected to the (-) pin below it, and the Up pin should be connected to the (-) pin above it.  There should be no continuity between the Down pin and the (-) pin NEXT to it, or the Up pin and the (-) pin Next to it.  There should be no continuity between the (+) pin and any of the other 4 pins.
 
With the switch in the Down Position, the Down window pin should now be connected to the (+) pin in the center, while the Up window pin is still connected to the (-) above it.  The (-) below the Down pin should not have continuity to any of the other pins.
 
With the switch in the Up Position, the reverse is true.  Up pin is connected to the (+) and Down is still connected to the (-) below it.



 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
F.  Window Motors
 
The two wires from the single switch socket (and two of the wires coming off of the Gang Switch socket) just go to a connector that plugs into the window motor itself and provide the (+) and (-) power to run the motors, with the polarity switching to go from up to down.


50
General Tech- - BRAKES / Rear brakes - 1 ton van
« on: April 15, 2008, 06:41:51 PM »
More fun with the van at work.  This is a '97 Dodge B3500.  Sounds like it needs new shoes on the back breaks, and I realised that I'm not sure exactly how this comes apart.
 
From looking at the van, and some stuff online, I think I've got it, but wanted to double check.
 
Am I correct that you have to undo the 8 bolts on the hub and remove the axle, and then the brake drum has it's own bearings kind of like a front drum setup?

51
MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / Dr Rustbucket...
« on: March 25, 2008, 03:38:54 AM »

..or how I learned to stop worrying and love the convertible.
Since Spring seems to be trying to show up, and I might actually get some work done at some point, so I thought I'd lay out the backstory first.
 
------------------------------
 
This car was built in December of 1965 and sold to someone in Detroit.  (who buys a convertible in Michigan in Dec?!!)

 
The original owner passed away around 1980 and his son sold it to a man named Robert Dixon, also of Detroit.  In the mid 80’s he had a fair amount of work done.
 Replaced the top, switching from black to white.
Had some rust repair done to the rear quarters and had the car repainted.
Had the engine rebuilt at around 100,000 miles.
 
In 2000 he sold it to a man in Jackson Mi.
 
In the summer of 2002 it was sold through an auto-auction in Parma (small town near Jackson)  and ended up at King Motors (a small repair shop that sells also sells a few cars) in Mason MI (where I live just outside Lansing) with 142,000 miles on it.

 
---------------------------------------------
 
Meanwhile, in the spring and early summer of 2002, my minivan was in the shop for a week getting the transmission rebuilt, and again for almost that long when the waterpump blew. The second time, I borrowed a co-workers beater truck.  A chevy pickup he bought from the neighbors for $100, and looking for a similar back-up car  seemed like a good idea.  After a couple of weeks keeping my eyes open, the best I’d seen was an ’83 Olds 98 2 door.  A pretty rare beast, but it had some issues, and the seller seemed a little flaky, so I passed.
 
So on a beautiful Saturday afternoon in July, I’m out running some errands, and I happen to so the car sitting out at King Motors and I stopped to take a look.  I wasn’t seriously interested, in fact, I wasn’t really sure exactly what it was (I knew it was some sort of Chrysler product from the 60’s but not much more)  What I was thinking was that it had been years since I’d driven an old car, and years since I’d been in a convertible, and that it would be a really, really nice day to take a test drive. ;)
 

 
It obviously had some issues, but he was only asking $1000.  This was about twice what I was looking to spend, but somewhere in the middle of my drive, I started trying to do the math in my head, to see if the budget could be stretched enough to make this work. 
So I told the dealer I needed to talk to my insurance guy, but that I would probably be back.
 
Monday morning,  still half convinced that I’d lost my mind,  I stopped at the insurance office, the bank, the dealers, back to the insurance office and then headed off to work before noon with my new convertible.



 
--------------------------------------------------------
 
After a few days exploration, I had pretty much determined what you get with a $1000 Convertible.
 
It started up, ran, drove, and stopped just fine.  Steering was reasonable, but a little bit of wandering had me assuming that it needed tie rods (turned out to just be the old bias-ply tires)
 
The dash looks pretty cool, the door panels and carpet are marginal, and the seats are pretty nasty.  A lot of splits in the vinyl along the stitching, and the much of the foam in the front buckets is gone (you could actually see all the way through to the floor in one spot of the drivers seat)
 


 

 

The top went up and down perfectly, but was pretty useless as an actual top.  It had a couple of pinholes over the front seat, large tears in the C-pillar areas, and the rear window was 90% gone.
 
The passenger door window did not roll up.  The quarter windows did go up and down but were fussy and didn’t really seal very well.
 
The holes in the top had allowed enough water in that the floor around and under the back seat was pretty well rusted through, and the frame rails/front spring mounts were pretty crunchy as well.
 
Rear springs were sagging.  Combine this with a very long trunk, and driveways are not something to be taken lightly.  Also, putting 4 friends in the car and attempting to go for a ride didn’t work real well either.
 
The lumpy bits above and behind the fender skirts seemed to be bondo over rust.
 
The electrical system was a disaster.  It is easier to describe what did work properly.  The basic ignition/charging system, headlights, front turn signals, radio, about half the dash lights, the ammeter, and the top motor.  It did come with two boxes of fuses in the ashtray. (I used most of them before getting the interior lights, and the taillights working right)
 
            Amazingly enough the bulkhead connector was pretty decent.  It just had a lot of bad grounds, and rust in the fuse box!!!!!
 
It does however look pretty presentable  â€“  at dusk  –  if you underexpose it a little


 
 

52
General Tech / Trouble with newer van
« on: January 16, 2008, 02:11:07 AM »
Looking for suggestions/advice concerning one of the vans at work.  It is a ’97 Dodge 3500 with 5.9 V8
 
The last week or two it has been randomly stalling or nearly stalling when idling.  It is fine 90% of the time, but every once in a while either while stopped or when moving but foot off the accelerator the RPMs will drop noticeably, something in the exhaust rattles and if you don’t give it some gas the oil pressure drops.  It will sometimes pick back up and be fine, or it will just stall.  Touch the gas pedal and RPMs pick right up and everything is fine.
 
For some time it has also been hard to start on occasion.  It will crank fine, but not start until you depress the accelerator part way (not all the way, like it’s flooded, but just giving it a little gas)
 
The owner was asking if I had any idea what was wrong.  Since the check engine light is on, I suggested taking it and getting the codes read, which he had already done.
 
Oxygen sensor #1 in bank #1 is reading too rich
Random cylinder misfires
Misfire in cyl #1
Misfire in cyl #2
Misfire in cyl #3
 
On the surface, it would seem like the O2 sensor is going bad, but why does it only happen at idle?
 
I just don’t know enough about computer control or fuel injection to do more than make guesses. 
 
 
 

53
MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / MBONB
« on: September 22, 2007, 12:29:53 AM »
That's Mini-Barge On No Budget 
 
 
See what you started Lea.
 
Although the Convertible still needs LOTS of body work, and has a couple of minor issues, unless something actually breaks, it's just going to get driven as-as for a while.
 
 
This fall, all the time and money (right, what money?) is going into the new Dart.
 
 
 

 
Things done so far -
 
Removed the remains of the vinyl top
Replaced the front brake hoses (hey the wheels go around now.  )
Replaced the burned out light bulbs (everything electrical works except the drivers front marker light which is completely smashed)
Removed nasty old carpeting to find out how much rust in floor
Cut/fitted patch for left rear floor
Put in C-body sized front floor mat to cover holes in front floor
Removed wiper mechanism and ordered new seals (see above )
Replaced dead battery
Temporarily installed old style '65 voltage regulator to keep replaced battery charged
Replaced fuel filter and rubber lines
Added second filter before pump
Drained gas from tank (they said it was running a few weeks before I bought it, didn't say it was running on the same gas as when parked 2 years previously!)
Cleaned sending unit and ordered replacement for MIA sock.
 
Major Projects that need to get done before Winter
 
Finish floor repairs
Deal with the little bit of rust in C-pillars (seems to be where the seam is part way up the side) and paint roof
Pass side upper control arm bushings
Exhaust
 
Wow, look how much shorter the second list is...
 
No, I'm not buying it either.
 

Pages: 1 2 3 [4]
© 2008-2014 Steve Hobby • © 2015 Allpar, LLC