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Topics - Dan Cluley

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Tech- - Engine / Worn Valve Guides
« on: April 14, 2010, 11:38:56 PM »
Next question in the Dart head swap:
My mechanic friend Kenny has got the '85 heads apart and says the valves look ok, but the guides are worn.
His first suggestion was to knurl the guides, but he doesn't have the right size tool(he's a Ford guy).  Doing a little looking online, I'm seeing suggestions that this isn't a good permanent fix, and that the tools are not cheap.
FSM says to ream the guides, and use oversize valves.  Kenny thinks .005 would be enough.   Looks like a new set of vavles would cost more than the knurling tool, but not a lot. 
So, I'm not sure which way to go, and am not sure what tool is needed.  Since Kenny doesn't have much Mopar experience I want to double check what size reamer is needed. 
CBarge2010-04-15 14:12:26

General Tech / Radiator Problem
« on: April 09, 2010, 12:00:07 AM »
I just noticed that this bracket has come loose from the top tank.  Am I correct that it is supposed to be soldered to the tank?  Any way for me to fix this, or just take it to a radiator shop?

UPHOLSERY HOW TOO's / Convertible Top Questions
« on: April 06, 2010, 10:52:50 PM »
My top is 7 years old, and is still mostly good, but I’m starting to notice a couple of issues.  I’d like to get another year or two out of it, so am looking for suggestions.
First, it has started to rip a little where it is fastened to the quarter window frame, and has a small tear just behind that in the C pillar area (the line and X in the photo)


I think I can take care of these by reinforcing it on the inside, so am looking for a source for small amounts of top material, and whatever kind of glue is used on this.
Second,  I have been noticing some water inside after it rains.  What it seems to be doing is coming in above the door windows and ending up in the channel of the top mechanism there.  Then the first time you turn a corner it runs out onto my lap.
I’m not sure how this moisture is getting in.  My two thoughts are that it is seeping through the stitching along the edge, or instead of dripping off the edge, it is wicking underneath and into the pads.
I’m assuming this top is vinyl rather than cloth, is there an easy way to determine?  Do vinyl tops get less waterproof as they age?  Is there something to spray or coat the top with to help with this.  (most of the waterproofing things I’ve looked at say not to use them on vinyl)
 D Cluley2010-04-07 03:55:39

Tech- - Engine / Gasket/seals for Small Block?
« on: March 22, 2010, 12:37:59 AM »
Well, looks like progress may actually be made on the Dart.
I'm starting with a 1974 318 2bbl.  I'm 99% sure it has a couple of burnt valves.  So I got a set of junkyard 318 heads from an '85 5th ave.
Dropped the "new" heads off at my mechanic friends house.  He's going to dissasemble, clean, check, etc.
Here's the question:
Rockauto shows this set for '66-78
This set for '78-89
Will one of these sets work with my new heads/old motor or do I need to pick up things individually.  If so, any suggestions on which gaskets need to match which years?
I guess the most important issue is the valve seals, since he will need those to reassemble the heads.

General BS and Laughs / Who Needs a Robin?
« on: March 11, 2010, 12:19:15 AM »
The real signs of spring...

Since last Saturday, I've seen a '66 Mustang, a '53 Studebaker, a '77 Olds, half a dozen motorcycles, and guy with the top down on his Audi (since it was 8 AM, and about 40 degreees out, I think he was pushing things a little)

and finally last night, I drove the Chrysler for the first time since early November.

General BS and Laughs / Hey Ardog, You snowed in?
« on: December 04, 2009, 05:37:52 PM »
We got a dusting yesterday, but sounded like you guys got dumped on.

General Tech- - BRAKES / Booster Check valve
« on: August 29, 2009, 09:35:50 PM »
There seem to be several sizes of these, and I'm not finding much info with dimensions.
Does anyone have a source, or a part number for what I need.
The diameter of the valve nipple that goes into the grommet in the booster is 7/8"

General Mopar Discussions / Woodward Cruise
« on: August 20, 2009, 08:15:57 PM »
Well, it was a pretty good year for C-bodies at Woodward.
On the way down I stopped for snacks in Howell, and there was a '69 or '70 Fury.  On the way home, stopped for gas in Wixom, and the only other car there was a '69 300.  In between I counted 14 Chryslers, 10 Plymouths, and 5 or 6 Dodges. 



Cool little wagon

Not a Mopar, but incredible craftsmanship!!

« on: August 13, 2009, 09:00:44 PM »
I've got the front end apart on the Dart.  As expected  the lower bushings are toast.
I'm a little concerned that there is too much slop in the arm itself. 
I can see that the center part (with the hex for the T-bar, and the arm for height adjustment) has to be able to rotate in relation to the main part of the arm, so that the height can be ajusted, but how much play is acceptable?
If I push it all the way to one side, I can get a .020" gauge in the gap, so there's approx .010" all the way around.  Is that normal or do I need to start hunting for replacement control arms?

D Cluley2009-08-14 02:05:38

Tech- - Engine / Water Pump Gasket
« on: July 29, 2009, 02:01:53 PM »
I'm replacing the pump on the Chrysler (383 if it matters) and the new pump comes with a thin fiber gasket.   Does that go on dry, or does it need some sort of sealer.  If so, what kind, and one side or both?
I probably should have wondered about this before taking everything apart, no?

General Tech- - BRAKES / Booster Leak?
« on: July 22, 2009, 09:06:13 PM »
Messing around with the Chrysler, I have discovered that applying the brakes causes a drop of about 1.5" of vacuum and about 50-75 RPMs.  Is this a sign of a problem with the booster, or is that normal? 

Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / Broken Speedo Cable - But different
« on: July 22, 2009, 08:55:21 PM »
Anybody ever have the outer part of the cable break?
There seemed to be a worn spot on one side.  I think it was rubbing on top of the T-bar.  I found some 9/32" brass tubing that fits snuggly over the cable housing, so have spliced it back together with that and some JB Weld.   Used a cable tie to hold it up next to the park cable and it seems to be working fine.

General BS and Laughs / Hey Train Fans
« on: July 22, 2009, 05:49:49 PM »

This trainfest thing is happening this week in Owosso MI, which is about an hour from me.
The host group are the folks with the Pere Marquette 1225 (this engine was the basis for the Polar Express movie)
Visiting are the NKP 765, SP4449, and a number of smaller locos.
The 4449 came through here last Sunday on it's way in from Chicago.  I had to work in the evening, and they ended up well behind schedule, so my chasing was a little limited, but this is what I got.
Various excursions the next 4 days, and then the 4449 heads back next Fri, so hopefully I'll have more to follow. :)

Tech- -BODY / Trunk lock interchange
« on: July 05, 2009, 11:06:27 PM »
The lock on the Chrysler has been acting up a little, and I am considering replacing it.
Based on what I've seen online, and the two cars I've got, this seems to be the way the locks break down.
1964-65 use a key blank with no groove on the back side.  (these are harder to find to get copies made)

1966-68 use a key blank with one grove in the middle of the back side.

1969-72 use a key blank with one groove close to the edge of the back side.

All of these are locks held in with a clip.  1973 and newer uses the same key as 69-72 but the lock is theaded and held on with a big nut.
At some point they switched from a solid lock body, to one that has a clip on cover that provides access to the tumbler pins.

Based on this, I think that I could use a 69-72 lock on my '65 and re-key it to match the one from the Dart.
Can anyone confirm that the later locks will fit?
If so, anybody got a lock they want to sell?

« on: July 05, 2009, 10:09:19 PM »
After replacing the upper ball joints, I did a quick driveway alignment on the Dart.
Something is not right. 
If I drive forward and stop both wheels have visibly positive camber.
If I drive backwards and stop both wheels have visibly negative camber.
Since the upper control arm bushings and the upper ball joints have all been replaced within the last year, I'm assuming the problem is with something on the lower end.
There seemed to be a tiny bit of play in the drivers side lower ball joint, but the pass seemed tight.
The strut rods look straight and tight and don't seem to move when I pulled on them.
I can't see anything obviously wrong, and with the wheel up off the ground, I still can't move anyting by hand.
What I'm considering is separating the lower ball joint from the control arm, and unloading the T-bars and seeing if the lower control arm has play in it then?
Any thoughts?

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