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Topics - Dan Cluley

Pages: [1] 2 3 4
Tech- - Engine / Small Block questions
« on: November 03, 2011, 08:31:33 PM »
I am in the process of tearing apart my ’74 318 in order to replace the cylinder heads.
It has been quite a few years since I’ve done anything like this, and never on a SB, so I’ve got some questions.
1.  Head Gaskets:   Do these go on dry, or with some sort of sealant?

2. The metal gaskets between the heads/intake have raised ridges around the holes.  Does the raised side go against the head, the intake, or doesn’t matter?
3. There are two cork gaskets for the front and rear of the intake where it sits on the block.  Do these go on dry or with some sort of sealant?
4.  The exhaust gaskets are smooth on one side, and metallic with dimples on the other.  Does it matter which side goes to the head, and which goes to the manifold?
5.  Finally, I noticed that one of the lobes on the cam has a brown stripe that runs most of the way around it.  I turned the engine over, and that rocker seems to move just like the others.  So, impending doom, or nothing to worry about?


General BS and Laughs / Concept car for Snotty
« on: September 30, 2011, 05:36:52 PM »


1965 AMC Marlin

1963 Dodge 880 with '66 Charger roof
Not sure what this proves except:
1.  There are no completely original designs
2.  A 1963 Dodge Charger 4 door hardtop would have been pretty cool! :)

General BS and Laughs / Car Cruise Videos
« on: September 22, 2011, 12:32:20 AM »
I've put some videos up on youtube from some recent local events.
Old US-27 Motor Tour
Downtown Cruise - Jackson MI - 8/26/2011
28th street Metro Cruise - Grand Rapids MI - 6/27/2011
Cruise In at the Olympic Broil - Lansing MI - 9/6/2011
D Cluley2011-09-22 05:39:50

General Tech- - BRAKES / new shoes too thick?
« on: April 15, 2011, 01:10:52 AM »
I need new shoes on the back of my Dart.  (10" drums, 7.25" rear end)
Replaced the passenger side ones, and even with the adjuster turned all the way in, the drum would barely go on, and when I tried driving, I can feel a drag, and that wheel smells hot.
This is one of the new shoes, and one of the old.  Looks like the right part?

I cracked the bleeder, and pushed the top of the shoes in all the way, and like I said, the adjuster is all the way in.
Any thoughts?

General BS and Laughs / Mini-mopars for the Holidays
« on: December 24, 2010, 01:27:50 AM »
This is part of our annual Christmas Village setup.  :)


General BS and Laughs / Old Cars in Google Street View
« on: December 11, 2010, 01:16:40 AM »
I'm still working on labelling pictures, and was using google maps & street view to verify some locaitons.
Discovered that during the 2009 dream cruise, they filmed most of Woodward Ave between 9 mile road in Ferdale Mi and downtown Pontiac Mi.
If that's not cool enough, I found a shot of my car parked along the route. :),+Bloomfield+Hills,+Oakland,+Michigan+48302&sll=42.603879,-83.268707&sspn=0.007281,0.021887&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=W+Square+Lake+Rd+%26+Woodward+Ave,+Bloomfield+Hills,+Oakland,+Michigan+48302&ll=42.603136,-83.263535&spn=0,0.021887&z=16&layer=c&cbll=42.603208,-83.263606&panoid=-aztwHKQxJsiMDvJ-kaFuw&cbp=12,350.67,,0,8.09

General Mopar Discussions / 57 or 58 Chrysler 300?
« on: December 03, 2010, 12:40:03 AM »
Is there any way to tell which year this one is?

Tech- - STEERING WHEELS AND SUSPENSION / Spindles & Bearings ?
« on: October 06, 2010, 10:56:30 PM »
Got started pulling this mess apart tonight.
1. I have an extra spindle.  Am I correct that the same part works on both sides of the car?
2. This part is the bearing race, and comes out of the drum, correct?

3.  There are two large bolts that go through the brake backing plate, the spindle, and then the lower ball joint.  I've got the nuts off the backside, but the bolts don't want to move.  The ball joints aren't threaded are they?  The bolts should just theoretically pull out, right?

General BS and Laughs / My weekend sucked, how you all doing?
« on: October 04, 2010, 03:04:44 AM »
Jen & I had made plans to go to the Michigan Rennaissance Festival on Saturday.  Since I work nights, this involved heading out after about 2 hours sleep, but I can deal with that.
The first hour at the fair was fun, but then the rain started, and the temperture, which hadn't ever made it above 50 started dropping.
I've been doing some work in the Dart's trunk, so we drove the Chrysler.  Coming home it seemed to be vibrating more than usuall, and just east of Flint starting making an unpleasant noise.  So I bailed off at the next exit and discovered that the RF outer wheel bearing was completely toast.
Fortunately I got ahold of a friend sort of in the area, who knew a guy, who knew a guy with a flatbead tow truck who was able to get to us in less than 1/2 an hour, and actually got us home before dark.
So, for at least this week, I'm down to one car, the one with the half finished patch in the front floor, and several holes in the trunk.
Walked into Jen's apartment and discovered that the toilet had backed up depositing what can only be described as "sludge" all over the bathroom floor.!     (I could describe it other ways, but would probably get censored ;)  )
This drain has been an issue since she moved in a couple of months ago, and they have assured her that it is fixed each time they snake it (I've lost track, but I think between the property manager, the maintanence guy, and an actual plumber it has been 7 or 8 attempts in the last 3 weeks.
After yet another visit by the (new this week, & pretty much clueless)  maintanence guy, I heard it gurgling again, and only by bailing about 3-4 gallons into a bucket kept it from dumping out again.
A couple more calls to the property manager, and they actually found a plumber who would come out at midnight on a Saturday.  (glad I'm not paying THAT bill!)
He left a little after 1 am without actually unclogging it.  Says they are coming back on Monday to replace all the pipe from her bath to the main drain down in the boiler room (it's mostly the original 85 year old cast iron stuff) but that in the mean time, he has isolated her toilet from the rest of the drain, so it can't be used, but won't back up if somebody in an apartment upstairs uses theirs.
This sounded good, untill Jen called me late Sunday afternoon. 
The "isolated" toilet had just overflowed for the second time in an hour!!!
My assumption is that the plumber either
a) lied to me about what he did
b) he doesn't know any more than the maintenence guy
c) the plumbing in this building works by magic!
take your pick.
Their current solution is to put notes on all the doors, explaing that all 12 apartments on this side of the building should go over to the one empty unit on the other side of the building and use that bathroom until this gets fixed.
I think I'm actually glad it's Monday

General BS and Laughs / 28th st Cruise
« on: September 12, 2010, 12:35:00 AM »
A couple of weeks ago went over to Grand Rapids for the 28th street cruise.
The good news:   The weather was actually good (for the first time in 3 years)
The bad news:  I spent most of the afternoon fixing an exhaust leak before I could head to the cruise.
The good news:  Still had time to hang out with Ardog for a few hours and shoot some video.

General BS and Laughs / That's one tough Dippy
« on: September 11, 2010, 12:43:52 AM »
Ran across this movie clip tonight.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Using a Multimeter
« on: July 17, 2010, 12:27:29 AM »
Disclaimer:  I am not a mechanic or an electrician, just a guy who usually knows which end of the screwdriver to use.  If you feel that you are likely to electrocute yourself or burn your car to the ground get help with the project.
There are lots of things you can do with a multimeter, but I'm just going to cover a couple of the basic ones.  However these are by far the most common things you will need to check for most problems.
First, a quick look at how things are wired:
A basic electrical circuit has two wires, one running from the + terminal of the battery to the thing you are powering (lightbulb, motor, etc) and the second runing from that item back to the negative or ground connection of the battery.
To save weight, and space, and especially MONEY, cars use the metal of the body, frame, dash, etc instead of actual wire for the ground connections.
So the most basic circuit in your car would be something like this.

Now, along the path of that red wire, add some connectors, a fuse to protect things, and a switch to turn it on and off, and you've got an actual circuit from your car.

1.  Voltage

To check voltage, set your meter to measure DCV (direct current voltage) Most meters will have several DCV settings, Each is identified by the maximum voltage it will read.  Pick the smallest one that is more than 12.

To check the battery voltage, connect the Black meter probe to the negative terminal, and the Red meter probe to the positive terminal.


With nothing turned on (draining the battery) a good battery should be pretty close to 13 volts.
Lets say that bulb isn't lighting up:
Turn on the power to whatever you are checking.
Move the Red meter probe to the positive wire at the bulb socket, it should still be pretty close to the same voltage that you had right at the battery.  You can also do this at the other connections along the path (bulkhead connector, switches, etc)

Checking the ground connections is basically the same.  Keep the Red meter probe attached to the positive battery post (or other + power spot that you know is good) and use the Black meter probe to check the voltage at the ground connection.  Should still be 12 volts.

2. Continuity
Unlike voltage, you check continuity with the power off, or even with components unplugged
The multimeter is designed to give exact measurements of resistance, but in a lot of cases we just need to know if a wire is intact, a switch is working, or connections are good.
For these purposes basically no resistance (or close to it) means things are all connected, and infinite resistance means there is a break somewhere.
Like the voltage settings, most meters will have several options for measuring resistance.  Again, if you are looking for the most accurate  measurement pick the closest number of Ohms that is larger than what you are checking.  For just checking continuity it shouldn't matter which Ohm range you pick.

With the probes not touching each other (or anything that will conduct electricity) notice what the meter reads. 

This one shows 0.L indicating "No Load"  Analog meters will point to the infinity symbol, and other meters may have other indications.  Whatever it shows at this point will be the indication of a lack of continuity when you are checking things.
With the two probes together, the meter should read 0.  If it doesn't check to see if there is a small knob or wheel that adjusts the zero setting, and turn it until it is reading 0.  If this doesn't work, check the battery in the meter.

To check the continuity of something, simply touch one of the probes to each end of the wire, switch, etc that you are checking.

Most components should have zero resistance, but some things like lights, or resistors will measure some Ohms.  
If you see the infinite resistance or no load indication then there is not continuity.

General BS and Laughs / Funny Article from Cracked
« on: July 09, 2010, 12:37:03 AM »
For some reason my girlfriend sent me a link to this article "The Sociopaths Guide to Owning and Maintaing Classic Cars"

General BS and Laughs / Oddball truck?
« on: July 02, 2010, 11:50:18 PM »
They were filming scenes for a movie here this week.
The steet scene included the Cadillac Sixteen concept car and this IH cabover thing which seems to have a lower windshield by the drivers feet?
Anybody know if that is factory, or is it something they cooked up for this film?


Tech- - FUEL / AFB idle screws
« on: June 20, 2010, 12:13:35 AM »
D Cluley2010-06-20 05:18:35

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