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Messages - Brian Peddigrew

Pages: [1] 2
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / Weirdo transmission I.D.
« on: June 02, 2010, 05:11:54 PM »
Snotty, I believe the shifter pad location depended on the body style kinda like a Mopar. I'm sure the T-10 I had out of the Hornet had the shifter pad on the rear like that. I definitely remember the coarse 10 spline input too. 

Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / Weirdo transmission I.D.
« on: June 02, 2010, 05:51:11 AM »
I think it's for an AMC. I had one that came out of a 71 Hornet S/C 360 that I believe had a 10 spline input shaft.

General Tech / Did Imps have 28" radiators?
« on: March 27, 2010, 02:42:57 PM »

Quote from: Snotty
That's why that one guy on the Dock always ended his posts with
"Imperials: not a C, never was, never will be!"  To me, the fact that
they share the same service maunal as my Newport in '70, I'd say they
became a C in '69.

The 67 FSM covers C bodies and Imperials as well...Yet many many parts and assemblys are different on the IMP. Even up to 73.

General Tech / Auto temp II
« on: October 19, 2009, 02:03:08 PM »
I should probably post an update to this. Using a 73 Newport heater valve and in-dash heater controls, a universal choke cable, a bunch of wire and some swearing I managed to completely convert the car to the non ATII setup. It really wasn't too difficult, the worst part was the wiring. The FSM was a big help but I'm not great at reading wiring diagrams and had a fit trying to get the blower motor to work correctly on the low-med-hi settings but it works great now. I must have removed about 20lbs of vacuum line from underneath the dash too. The only thing I haven't worked on is getting the rear heater working with it but I'll worry about that later. 

General Tech / A/C/heater Control unit differences
« on: October 19, 2009, 01:54:59 PM »
Usually cars with A/C had a cable controlled valve in the heater hoses. In cars without A/C, the cable was used to open and closean air door in the heater box and the heater valve in the heater hoses was vacuum operated.

Tech- - Engine / 440-WOB Part 2 - Continued...
« on: October 18, 2009, 04:54:06 PM »
Are you feeling a drag on the drill? If so the pump is priming, likely all that's happening is the holes in the #4 cam journal are not lined up with the holes in the block to oil the top end. Turn the engine over slowly while priming and the top end should start getting wet.

Tech- - Engine / 440-WOB Part 2 - Continued...
« on: October 18, 2009, 04:28:40 PM »

Sometimes the pumps don't take a prime when they are dry. Try putting some heavy gear oil or even vaseline(!) in the pump rotors and try it again.
2C1J2009-10-18 21:35:16

General Tech / Auto temp II
« on: March 15, 2009, 04:44:05 PM »
So I bought a NOS '73 non ATC temp control set up...Now I gotta figure out how to hook it up. I'm gonna pull the dash apart in a few weeks and start figuring out what vacuum lines do what. Can't say I'm looking forward to it.

General Tech / Auto temp II
« on: February 10, 2009, 05:03:30 PM »

Quote from: Commando1
More shtuff:

While studying the tech manual for AT II, I discovered that  if you convert to a manual AC setup, the temperature control cable HAS to go to the air blend door in the hater box and not the heater valve.
The heater valve has to remain vacuum operated.

The more I read, the more I.....

I don't see why it would have to remain vacuum operated, but it's just as well I suppose. You could have a vacuum valve that shuts the heat off with the a/c on, and then opens again when you want hot air. Then the air door would control the amount of heat just like a stock setup I suppose? Many cars didn't even have heater valves anyways, though I guess with A/C the hot water going though the heater core ALL  the time would waste some the cold air coming off the evaporator...

Here is non AT control unit for my '73, looks like the temp slider is for a vacuum set up as well? not sure what that switch is for though.

I've worked on cars for years, but never messed with this kind of stuff...never had a need to until I had an Auto temp car.
2C1J2009-02-10 22:04:16

General Tech / Auto temp II
« on: February 08, 2009, 04:29:47 PM »
yeah I read through all that last night. It was a good read, and helped a little but it didn't put me much farther ahead. When the weather warms up a bit I'm going to tear into the dash and try to rig something up. I wish it was spring.

Commando, you said your 96 radio bolted in with no mods? Did the mounting tabs look like this? I'd love to put a factory cassette/cd stereo in my '73. How hard was hooking up the wiring?

General Tech / Auto temp II
« on: February 08, 2009, 11:20:13 AM »
Thanks for the help. That caravan setup looks like a real nice fit in your '76, the newer radio looks pretty good in there also. I agree about a bracket on the water valve, I think that would be the way to go, I just never found a pic of one.
One thing I was wondering about, is that most water valves are vacuum operated? I'm not sure how that would work since I think they'd be full open or full closed, unless the heater controls modulate the vacuum to control the heat..

The dash in my '73 is different so the caravan setup won't work, but I can just get one out of a non ATII equipped car. Or that one off Ebay...

When you say there is no manual heater box available for my car I'm not sure what you mean? I never looked at my cars heater box very closely yet, but are you saying the auto-temp cars don't have the usual heater box setup with vacuum operated doors and such?

General Tech / Auto temp II
« on: February 08, 2009, 09:24:14 AM »
So it's my understanding that I need to replace the in-dash controls with a non ATCII setup like in the auction stitcherbob posted. Figure out the mess of vacuum lines so the air doors open and close properly with the new controls and install a heat valve on one of the heater hoses to control the heat? and hook a cable from the temp slider to the heat valve, correct?

General Tech / Auto temp II
« on: February 07, 2009, 06:48:28 PM »

Quote from: CBarge
The Auto Temp (I and II) are junk.
Mine does not even work at all in the New Yorker.

Seems to be common, which is why i'm looking at bypassing or replacing the system with the regular heat control setup. Like I said I'm not really interested in restoring the system back to new. I just want a working defroster. But the car is apart right now.

General Tech / Auto temp II
« on: February 07, 2009, 04:52:16 PM »
Yeah I saw that someone makes a new aluminum servo. Problem is it's about $600. Between that and the other missing parts (all the A/C stuff is gone too, other than the evaporator in the dash) I figure it would be about $2000 to put it all back to stock. Which I would love to do, but can't justify the expense...I do have the service manual, which covers the auto temp system but I haven't really studied it closely yet.

I searched the Imperialclub site but there's not much there on the AT system other than mentioning the aluminum servo.

One option may be to get a regular heater controler off another Chrysler and try to hook it up. They only have about 5 vacuum lines on them so it shouldn't be too hard to figure out where to hook it up to the air doors etc..

General Tech / Auto temp II
« on: February 07, 2009, 04:21:42 PM »
Anyone know about the Auto Temp II system? Right now my '73 NY has no motor in it and alot of the Autotemp parts are missing. The plagued plastic servo is still there but I don't think it works because it appears it was bypassed at one time. When I go to put a motor back in the car I probably won't bother with A/C but I haven't decided for sure. I will want the defroster/heater to still work though. I'm wondering will the heater controls still work if I bypass the servo and just hook the heater hoses to the firewall directly? I'm not really interested in restoring the system back to stock, but did anyone ever mess with one of these systems? There must be about 50 miles of vaccuum tubing hooked to this thing and I have no idea what they do

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