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Topics - Jason Medhurst

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1
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / 727 Transmission Pan
« on: October 01, 2009, 01:53:20 PM »
I went down to the Hughes Performance factory here in Phoenix and picked up their cast aluminum pan.  Very nice and should put to bed leak issues.
 
I installed it, thought it looked a little deep, but nonetheless, moved forward.  Droppped the car and noticed that the pan is hanging very low.
 
I have been using it to see how it would work.  No more leaks, but today, after driving it for a few weeks, I banged the pan on a driveway hump leading to a business.  It was a pretty good hit.  No damage (this time), but this has me concerned. 
 
First of all, let me say, Hughes makes a strong part.
 
I see that Moroso makes a fabricated pan that is 2.33" tall, I think the Hughes pan is 3 3/16.  I wonder if that savings is enough.
 
What is the depth of the standard pan for BB 727's for cars? 
 
thanks!
J

2
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / 727 One Wire Neutral Safety Switch
« on: September 14, 2009, 07:42:52 AM »
I am having a hard time finding a neutral safety switch with a single wire like the one I currently have.  I can only find the three wire one with a connector.  Can the three wire switch be wired so that it can work with my single wire?
It was a toss up wether this topic should be here or in electrical...
 
Thanks!

3
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / 727 Pan Leaking
« on: August 18, 2009, 06:40:37 PM »
I just had my transmission rebuilt (albeit by a company that went under 1 month after it was done!  I have all the luck).
 
The transmission is shifting really well now, but I am fighting what appears to be a pan leak.  It looks to me like the leak is coming from both the edge, but most of the fluid is on the bolts.  I know this can be a tough one to cure.  Any ideas?
 
Also, I notice that if I leave the car and don't drive it for several days, when I start it up, and put it in gear, it takes a little while for the fluid to get moving.  The car gets moving slowly.  If I gas it, it gets going faster.  Almost like it has lost its prime.  After this, its fine for a while.  It did this before the rebuild also. 
 
My personal opinion of the guys that rebuilt it was they were reputable.  They were just caught up by a tough economy.
 
Vick Ferrari2009-08-18 23:42:51

4
General Tech / HID Head Light Conversion
« on: July 01, 2009, 05:58:18 PM »
Guys, I want to upgrade my lighting on the 68 Newport to HID.  Any ideas on how I should do this?  What size sealed beam is this?  I think the replacement light is an H5006 and an H5001.


 
Part numbers and where to buy would be good as I want to move forward with this.  I need brighter lighting!
 
Thanks for your help!
J

5
MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / 1968 Chrysler Newport Convertible
« on: June 01, 2009, 05:48:21 PM »
This is a topic I kept putting off starting.  This is as good a time as ever.
 
I bought a 68 Newport Convertible from a gentleman in Indiana March of 2008.  Since then, I have been chipping away at this project.
 
The guy told me the car was "restored".  So, as soon as it limped off the car carrier, it was clear, this restored car needed brakes, paint, motor and transmission to start!
 
I will post pics..

6
General Mopar Discussions / Incredible!
« on: December 11, 2008, 07:10:55 AM »
I wasn't sure where to post this.
 
I can't believe the time, trouble and expertise that went into producing this!!
 
http://www.moyermade.com/chevyV8.html
 
I mean look at the work on the water pump housing.  I can't believe he was able to work out the cams, spings, valves etc!  And then how do you deal with the spark plugs??
 
 

7
Tech- - Engine / Electric Fans on 440
« on: December 08, 2008, 06:25:54 PM »
I installed the aluminum radiator off of Ebay after finding my radiator was no longer going to survive.  I though it was a great deal and it showed up in perfect shape and installed it- looks great, works great.
 
I just ordered the Derale puller 4000 cfm electric fan from Summit:
 
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DER%2D16927&N=700+115&autoview=sku
 
 
My question is, there are two switches available.  One temperature probe fits into the radiator fins, the other comes with an NPT fitting.  I am not sure where to install the NPT fitting so I am leaning towards the fin probe.
 
Does anyone have any strong feelings about this?  I am sure the NPT direct method is faster than the fins reading, but does it matter?
 
I also need to know how I should adjust the temperature switch.  There are two switches (one for each fan).  Do I set them to the temperature of the thermostat?  I do stagger there turn on settings, so that if one fan is sufficient, then I only one fan turns on?
 
The fans, both on, draw a maximum of 50 amps.
 
Vick Ferrari2008-12-08 23:26:38

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