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Messages - AJ

Pages: 1 ... 7 8 [9]
121
Tech- - STEERING WHEELS AND SUSPENSION / Wibbly Wobbly steering column...
« on: October 27, 2008, 11:40:20 AM »
[/QUOTE]
 
evulution2008-10-27 15:41:29

122
Tech- - STEERING WHEELS AND SUSPENSION / Wibbly Wobbly steering column...
« on: October 27, 2008, 11:36:14 AM »
Sounds like the Lower Column Bearing.  Usually caused by pulling on the steering wheel to get in\\out of the vehicle.  Happens in the Jeep world a decent amount because of the height and the fact that steps kill ground clearance and will eventually rip off anyway when you are wheeling - if using the Jeep properly.

123
Tech- - STEERING WHEELS AND SUSPENSION / PS Pump belt. Catch 22?
« on: October 27, 2008, 11:32:42 AM »
Quote from: Junk
If you can turn the belt a 1/4 turn as if you are twisting it, you know it is tight enough.  If you can't turn it 1/4 turn, then it is too tight.  If you can get more than 1/4 turn, then it is too loose.  This is an old timers trick to belt tightness.  The new belts that are sold today, are not "wrapped" all around, and they are machine cut.  These belts will glaze over faster, and squeal.  I try to find the older type of cloth wrapped belts, and if you take proper care of them, they will outlast any modern day cut belt.   Most times that belts are out of alignment, it is a result of something being loose on the bracket hold down system.  I have rarely seen brackets that have been bent from a belt being too tight.  I have seen brackets that have been bent, because they were tensioned improperly using the wrong tool.  Also look for accident damage that has never been corrected. 
 
Never had a squealing belt - this is the method I have always used for tightening my belts up.
 
Have also used the Gatorbacks - they do seem to work better - ie grip more.

124
Tech- - Engine / Carb De-Oxidation???
« on: October 27, 2008, 11:20:33 AM »
Will this screw up my seals etc?  Do i have to take it apart\\rebuild it afterwards?evulution2008-10-27 15:20:41

125
Tech- - Engine / Carb De-Oxidation???
« on: October 27, 2008, 11:20:32 AM »
Will this screw up my seals etc?  Do i have to take it apart\\rebuild

126
Tech- - Engine / Carb De-Oxidation???
« on: October 27, 2008, 11:14:24 AM »
OK - got an Eddy 600cfm for mah 360 along with a re-done manifold for cheap.  The carb works and all but looks like hell.  It is aluminum - not Edelbrock's Endurashine stuff.

 
I don't like chrome really and just want to remove the crusty oxidation.  Any suggestions on an easy way to get rid of it?   I know about wiz-wheeling and elbow grease but I don't have the time for that nore the patience as of late (it's getting colder and darker by the time I get home) and I want to drive this thing in the Snow.  Didn't get to put the top down even this Summer on it.
 
evulution2008-10-27 15:15:00

127
General Tech / Dual exhaust - what's it cost?
« on: October 27, 2008, 10:45:36 AM »
I could not find this link again...but took some time and finally found it for you...and maybe the rest of you guys, too.  Take a look...

http://www.waldronexhaust.com/

 
He has many makes\\models and if you can't find it on the site give him a call.  He is an awesome guy.

128
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / TF999 Shifter
« on: October 27, 2008, 09:17:00 AM »
Quote from: Snotty
Quote from: POLARACO
Bob?  Bob is a record breaker.  He just keeps skipping back
Screw driver???
 
 
Hold up one moment!  You have the linkage from a Mopar.  Bob's motor is an AMC 360 mated to an AMC-spec, Mopar built transmission.  I doubt your linkage will work, Steve.
 
Bob, for this particular question, you might want to consult with some AMC people. 
 
 
I can tell you this much - because I almost put in a Mopar 360 instead...the TF999 in the AMCs is apparently exactly the same externally less the bell housing, of course.  There have been guys that have done this on their AMC Jeeps...they use a Mopar carcass on the trans and just swap their Jeep trans internals into it - voila bolt up a Mopar.  I had a Power Ram sitting in my driveway for about two months but then decided to just put an AMC360 in.
 
I can't really run any headers unless I run shorties\\factory replacement or fenderwell.  I don't have enough room on the pass frame rail for an exhaust if i run long tube in frame.  I rotated the xfercase up so I have a 100% flat belly under my HEEP for clearance Now my BOA is just under 30* .  Even still with the shorties where the cable was run it would contact the #7 pipe.
 
evulution2008-10-27 13:21:07

129
General Tech / Exhaust manifolds interchange.
« on: October 27, 2008, 05:37:24 AM »

 ROFLOL

 ROFLOL

 ROFLOL

130
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / Tranny cooler lines
« on: October 26, 2008, 09:22:04 PM »

Quote from: firedome
Rubber might well last 100K as one experience seems to show, but I wouldn't want to bet my life or a long walk home on it.

I ran a trail repair very similarly...was not for 100K but it was for ~20K and it showed no signs of any deterioration.  *shrugs*  Later I spent the time and put steel ones in.


131
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / TF999 Shifter
« on: October 26, 2008, 08:35:02 PM »
Ok...my Jeep has a built TF999 and i really do love this transmission - best of all worlds and well...its tough.  Anyway - after doing some mudding early in the Jeep's life with me...the linkage bound and broke.  So I went the quick-fix route which was to install a B&M Cable Style shifter.  This fixed the problem and ensured it wouldn't happen again - unless the cable was to screw up.

So...flash forward appx 3yrs later - here I am.  After I built up my 258 - it wasnt strong enough for my 33s (at the time), heavy lead foot, and poor gearing ...anyway...I swapped in a 360ci.  I wanted to keep the stock waggy manifolds that are on there because they have just under what a header could do and with the stock ones they gave more Tq than HP...I install the motor and see the shifter cable on the manifold...can't move it out of the way.

There was no place to move the shifter to re-position the cable.  And I go thru 2 cables after trying many different things\\positions\\etc.  I look on eBay and find an old 4-speed manual floor shifter for cheap and make it work for the time being...had to be able to drive it.

After building the exhaust recently I realized that there just was not enogh room between the shifter linkage and the shifter - had to move it out the way....now...does anyone have any suggestions for a Direct Linkage Floor shifter?

Sorry - felt like telling a bed time story. [Now I feel worse than Bob]


132
General Tech / Exhaust manifolds interchange.
« on: October 26, 2008, 08:25:37 PM »
What did I miss???


133
General Tech / Old Tires
« on: October 26, 2008, 08:09:03 PM »
My complaint with Cooper is every set I got would not last me long...what is amazing is their Mud Terrains they had were amazing.  Better life than my car tires but with a thicker sidewall, good tread life, and even with no siping did surprisingly well in water.  Better yet off-road they held up quite nice.  Could air down to 22psi on the street - including 65mph HWY for 1hr.  Then again their weight\\load rating was high and my Jeep is light.


134
General Tech / Dual exhaust - what's it cost?
« on: October 26, 2008, 05:24:06 PM »
You can buy a builder's kit and make one yourself, too. :-P

I did my exhaust on my Jeep with a friend for approx 150.00.  Used a 2.25 builder kit that was mandrel bent, magnaflow y-pipe (2.25 -> 2.5), 20' section of 2.25 and a thrush welded 2-chamber.  Took us two Saturdays or so and had some fun doing it too.  Wanted to do dual but did not have the space on the pass side between the xfer case and frame rail.

Only thing - we had plenty of room to work with under the Jeep.

Now working on getting my Eddy Performer Intake\\Carb on...that will take another two weekends.



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