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Topics - AJ

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MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / Frame Repair Advice Needed
« on: June 22, 2012, 07:16:45 PM »

Hello all!  It's been a while...I am not sure if I have ever introduced my AMC\\Jeep CJ7 named Mangy Mutt but we just call her Mangy for short.  She is an interesting toy and sanity when typical '1st world life problems' get to be too much. 

evulution2012-06-23 00:28:20

MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / 1981 Jeep Scrambler
« on: September 11, 2010, 05:00:15 PM »

Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / HELP - PLEASE - 904/999 Output Bearing
« on: March 09, 2010, 02:57:37 PM »
OK...I will keep this very brief as I am extremely frustrated and thoroughly confused.

The Extension Housing\\Output Shaft bearing in my trans has went south...took a couple months to track down the noise...
Pulled it all apart and added external oil filter and 2qt pan...I had the trans rebuilt within 5,000 miles (but this part is not in the overhaul kit as it hardly ever needs replacing, being that it is a ball bearing).
So...I call my trans buddy up and have him order the bearing which is WRONG, they sent him the output shaft bushing which is for the 2wds and when he calls his sources they say they can't get it, sorry, not even I start going around town looking for the bearing locally with limited luck.
I call my friend up where my Jeep is sitting and he puts a set of Metric calipers on it with the following dimensions:
I.D. - 31.5mm (1.2401in)
O.D. - 72.0mm (2.8346in)
W - 19mm (0.7480in)
NAPA is able to find me a bearing that is meant for my application (but not thru there system b/c it is terrible and does not have it listed).  They give me the part and it LOOKs close and it is...everything is perfect except that the I.D. is 0.040in too big.  WTF...
So, we look at the bearing and find the PN from MRC...what we find is this, after calling SKF (who bought them out, naturally)...
According to MRC\\SKF the bearing is a 'custom' bearing by the PN but have no listing for it in there books including the OLD books...
What do you guys think is going on here?  Anyone have to change this bearing and run into the same issue?
To complicate things more according to Transtar my trans should have a ~2.445in O.D. on the bearing but they do not have a listing for the I.D. and the NEWER Jeeps have ~2.8346in O.D. but they do not have an I.D. listed.   Both of them are almost out with the 2.8in O.D. bearing only having 1 in stock US-wide with no plans of remanufacture and same with the smaller ones...
I am going nuts here...I think I may have to get a sleeve made for the bearing I got from NAPA with a press-fit onto the bearing and a slip fit onto the shaft but at ~$80(1hr labor), I can't afford it and really do not trust it even though a proper press-fit is said to hold up fine...I just can't trust it especially when I have my family in the Jeep with me on occassion and work nights with a 50mi 1-way commute...
The closest bearing I have found from SKF has the following specs:

I.D. - 30mm (1.1811in)
O.D. - 72.0mm (2.8346in)
W - 19mm (0.7480in)
Does anyone know if the I.D. can be turned down on the bearing?

MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / My Jeep In Action
« on: January 29, 2010, 08:30:16 PM »
Hello all - I have not posted on here for a long while now and figured I should share a recent 'outing' I had with a couple friends.  Everything worked really well...Liz enjoyed it, too!

Tech- - FUEL / Underhood temps are RIDICULOUS!
« on: July 27, 2009, 03:09:50 PM »

OK - So now that a lot of my heep is back together, working properly and most everything is good I have to get back to the motor...
I have a very bad under hood temp issue...I don't know what the temp is under the hood but my carb is just about always very very warm and on hot days the carb is just about HOT to the touch...the air cleaner even was!
I put on a 1" carb spacer to see if it would did but not enough.  The carb itself still gets pretty damn warm.
I put some large custom fender vents in also which makes a HUGE difference because all the heat was getting trapped in the corners of the inner fenders with nowhere to go...
Now...the temp gauge reads perfectly fine but i know i am having a heat issue because i go thru a lot of fuel pretty quick...the fuel was even evaporating in the filter...
I have an AMC360 in my CJ with about 300hp and 350tq...360s were never in CJ7s - hell no V8 CJ7s were even made in the US last year of a V8 CJ was 83 which had a 304 in it...lots less heat I am sure.
I have considered modifying my hood and give it a cowl induction style hood so it can bring cool air into the motor along with additional vents in the front 'corners' of the hood so that when in motion it circulates the air.  I was going to run louvers but no one close enough can punch them out and at $1.50-$3.00\\louver that is way too steep for me (more than a few would be needed, methinks).
Please guys have been dealing with this stuff for a lot longer than I have.
EVERYONES WISDOM IS WELCOMED!  I don't care how crazy of an idea it sounds like - I would love to hear it!  BTW - Fuel line was custom bent by me and is more out of the way of the engine than it was from the factory.

General BS and Laughs / What did you do to your 'wheels this week?
« on: July 27, 2009, 02:59:05 PM »
There are a few topics like this on most other forums...I didn't see one on here...I will start off.
Tested out my custom 3/4 elliptical rear suspension - finally!

(Editted for size)
Commando12009-07-27 21:17:13

Hello all...some of you know me and others don't...

Just wanted to share my Heep with taken earlier this week.  Still have a bunch of little stuff to do to close this chapter of the build-up.  I will post some old pics too...

Tech- - Engine / AMC 360 Camshaft Specs
« on: April 23, 2009, 03:57:45 AM »
Calling AMC Nuts!
I cannot seem to find anything online that has what the cam specs are for an 85 AMC 360.  When I did find information on it - it does not tell me what the lift @ .50 is etc so I cannot run a computer simulation to estimate my Tq\\HP...from the specs that I did find and 'guesstimating' the missing info I have ~340ft\\lbs and ~260hp by using the following components:
Eddy 600 Performer Carb
Eddy Dual Plane Intake (No EGR)
Stock Heads
Stock Manifolds (Dog Leg Heads)
Custom 2.25 -> 2.5 2-1 Mandrel
Thrush Chambered Welded
HEI Ignition(50K V)
Double Roller Chain
NO Emissions (AIR Ports plugged\\Smog Pump Removed\\No Cat\\No EGR)
Elec Fan
She runs good and plants you in the seat pretty good when you step on it even with 3.31 gears and 35x12.50 tires...lots o traction but can still brake stand w/o much effort at all (don't beat on it on the street really - just offroad).  The whole thing is that I really want to know what the curves are because I want to optimally re gear my rig...I have to do it because the D44 I am swapping in is a different ratio...I want to do it once, though.
Anyway - any help would be appreciated.
evulution2009-04-23 08:57:59

General BS and Laughs / HAPPY HALLOWEEN
« on: October 31, 2008, 06:27:51 AM »

One of Joe Sprak's creations - a mastermind in the shockwave\\flash animation arena...had a total of 7 episodes I believe...been awhile since I've enjoyed good 'ol Radiskull\\Devil Doll.
evulution2008-10-31 14:32:25

Tech- - Engine / Carb De-Oxidation???
« on: October 27, 2008, 11:14:24 AM »
OK - got an Eddy 600cfm for mah 360 along with a re-done manifold for cheap.  The carb works and all but looks like hell.  It is aluminum - not Edelbrock's Endurashine stuff.

I don't like chrome really and just want to remove the crusty oxidation.  Any suggestions on an easy way to get rid of it?   I know about wiz-wheeling and elbow grease but I don't have the time for that nore the patience as of late (it's getting colder and darker by the time I get home) and I want to drive this thing in the Snow.  Didn't get to put the top down even this Summer on it.
evulution2008-10-27 15:15:00

Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / TF999 Shifter
« on: October 26, 2008, 08:35:02 PM » Jeep has a built TF999 and i really do love this transmission - best of all worlds and well...its tough.  Anyway - after doing some mudding early in the Jeep's life with me...the linkage bound and broke.  So I went the quick-fix route which was to install a B&M Cable Style shifter.  This fixed the problem and ensured it wouldn't happen again - unless the cable was to screw up.

So...flash forward appx 3yrs later - here I am.  After I built up my 258 - it wasnt strong enough for my 33s (at the time), heavy lead foot, and poor gearing ...anyway...I swapped in a 360ci.  I wanted to keep the stock waggy manifolds that are on there because they have just under what a header could do and with the stock ones they gave more Tq than HP...I install the motor and see the shifter cable on the manifold...can't move it out of the way.

There was no place to move the shifter to re-position the cable.  And I go thru 2 cables after trying many different things\\positions\\etc.  I look on eBay and find an old 4-speed manual floor shifter for cheap and make it work for the time being...had to be able to drive it.

After building the exhaust recently I realized that there just was not enogh room between the shifter linkage and the shifter - had to move it out the anyone have any suggestions for a Direct Linkage Floor shifter?

Sorry - felt like telling a bed time story. [Now I feel worse than Bob]

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