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Messages - Butch Houghton

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10
31
Tech- - Engine / What's my compression ratio
« on: October 09, 2009, 06:01:27 AM »
You think that confirms your assumptions?   Better read again.   If anything it backs up what I said more so.

You've got to have the quench just right,  timing spot on with the curve or it's gonna detonate at 10.5:1

You've said nothing about trying to set the quench & those pistons aren't a quench pad design.   You've done nothing but plug a bunch of Advertised specs into a chart & think it's okay with no measuring.

Most of us agree that 10:1 is about it for a reliable street motor on pump gas with a good quench..   The Ross forgings in my SB are a true 9.5:1 with the stock 340 heads ( slightly worked ),  the Hemi is a true 10.6:1 with Aluminum heads & I've got the timing about as far as I dare with that setup with 16 initial & 34 total,  any more & it detonates.

I dare say you're not gonna have 10.5:1 anyway with those pistons no matter what the chart says.   Most blocks aren't at Blueprint deck height so that'll be lower compression anway.   Many peole have pulled apart original 440 magnums & found the true compression ( after careful measuring) at more like 9.5 - 9.7:1 so the advertised rating mean nothing.

Go read a bunch more.





32
Tech- - Engine / Timing chain line-up
« on: October 07, 2009, 05:05:15 AM »
You only need to go no more than 2 revolutions to get a timing chain lined up.   They're either right on the first or 180 degrees out,  one more & you would have it.

You do have to make sure it's on the compression stroke though.    You can turn it over with the bolt in & stick your finger in the # 1 plug hole & feel for the compression.  Watch the dots to see if they come up in line.  Or if you want stick the timing cover on with 2 bolts & put the damper back on temporarily to get a visual on exactly where you are while still feeling for compression.

The bottom line is...if you can spin it & the dots DO line up ( take a straightedge & hold it across the bolts for crank & cam to check ) then it probably is really OK & not slipped.   The Cam & crank gears are on keyways & if the dot come up right then everythings still in time & you can change right there.  Using the straightedge if it was off you'd see it right away.  I just prefer to make sure of TDC at the same time but this would work.

And yes you can back it all up & come at it again,    back a good 1/2 revolution to let everything re-set ( take back up the slack in the chain ) & come back to line up.

2 complete revolutions of the engine is 1 cycle ( 720 degrees ) & the cam & distributor run at 1/2 that.







33
Tech- - Engine / What's my compression ratio
« on: October 04, 2009, 05:51:27 AM »
Yeah,  but the octane rating were much better back then too.  Everything was RON rated & now  it's it's an average between RON & MON ratings ....much lower octane.

But whatever,  go right ahead...





34
Tech- - Engine / What's my compression ratio
« on: October 03, 2009, 04:39:47 AM »
Since you have the Compression height listed take your old piston & measure with a caliper it's compression height to compare as a double check.

Just measure from the center of the wrist pin to the top,  that's your compression height.

Plug the old height number into the calculator & see what it comes out with too.  The old piston should have a lesser compression height.

Just a real eyeball verification.  Irregardless they look like nice pistons!  I dubious about a real 10.5:1 compression & if it is you're gonna have issues with detonation with Iron heads.

Butch



35
Tech- - Engine / What's my compression ratio
« on: October 02, 2009, 06:12:28 AM »
The only way to really know is to mockup 1 piston & rod with the crank & actually see how far in the hole the piston is.    Hit TDC & with a straightedge & feeler gauge you can get real close.

Did you actually measure those heads or just use the advertised CC'a.   Should be checked,   88 cc's is closer to nominal.   

The reason I say all this is we had a 440 that someone else built here in a 70 Cuda convert that we just had to finish a couple of things on & fire the engine.    Even with the timing backed to TDC it pinged under light loads.   Supposed to be Ross 9.5's in it & after teardown sure enough they were.   Chamber cc'd right at 88 where they should be.  Compression calculated at 11.1:1?   Taled to Ross & for one thing the pistons were'nt far enough in the hole for one thing so I had to conclude the deck was heavily decked.   took it to the machine shop & he checked it for me,  sure enough it was decked .040!  

You never really know unless you check it.

Butch



36
Tech- - Engine / Best quality plug wires?
« on: September 29, 2009, 05:23:17 AM »
These have gotten nothing but excellent reviews.....

http://www.firecore50.com/

When I change it'll be these.





37
Tech- - Engine / Which head gasket ???
« on: September 23, 2009, 06:49:25 AM »
They're good but if you don't have the right finish on the block deck & head surface they WILL have leak problems.    We planned the Hemi build with the Cometics in mind & they have'nt leaked any.

For what it's worth,  Fel-Pro also has an MLS gasket int heir listings too & a lot cheaper.

Over the years we've done a lot with just the Blue Permatorque's & never had a failure,  with no special block prep.    Even have an EDDY headed 318 that has them & no issues.

Butch



38
Tech- - Engine / Which head gasket ???
« on: September 22, 2009, 05:45:49 AM »
Yeah,, you need the 360 head gaskets.  Don't want the Gasket hanging over in the bore.

318 Intake is correct too for those heads.

I'd just use the good Ole' Fel Pro Blue Permatorque's.

I've got the Cometic's on the Elephant but sure wouldn't use them on a normal build like that.  My SB stroker just has the Fel Pro's on it too.  

Butch



39
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / 727 One Wire Neutral Safety Switch
« on: September 16, 2009, 06:54:08 AM »
You can't use a later 3-prong with a 68-back Valvebody without changing the "Rooster comb" on the VB.     Won't actuate correctly.

The comb is plastic made onto the shaft that goes through the case to the linkage,  with the vVB out you just pull the c-clip on top & slide it out,  replace with a 69-up version.   Only fun thing is the spring & ball for the detent  arm to watch,  don't wanna be chasing it all over the room.

Butch



40
General Tech / Vac heat valve w\ AC car [1971 Satellite]
« on: September 02, 2009, 10:19:44 AM »
I didn't even look at the Rock Auto one before....too lazy!

Yeah it would work too,  same principal.    If it's easier to get then use that one,  just a bit more in price is all.   There's a lot of different valves out there for the different years.   That one is a replacement type & may not look factory but will work fine.

Butch



41
General Tech / Vac heat valve w\ AC car [1971 Satellite]
« on: September 02, 2009, 05:06:44 AM »
The non A/C cars don't use a valve in the heater lines B or C at least thru 69.   The cables control the door in the heater box only.

The 68 or 69 valve would replace what you've got just fine.    It might not be factory but it would work.  All you're doing is shutting off the water from the vacuum switch on the dash.

The ones at the top of the page are what Classic Auto Air uses too for their conversions on an A-body since their controlled by a cable still,  We just did one.

Butch



42
Tech- - STEERING WHEELS AND SUSPENSION / Control Arm Question
« on: August 16, 2009, 07:25:21 AM »
Pretty normal in that area,  Some have a bit more slop than others.  

Only thing you need to do there is replace that lower bushing for sure,  looks pretty shot.

You're right in that it has to be somewhat loose for the adjuster arm to move.   The clue that it's okay is that the hole looks to be concentric,  I.E. not wallowed out.   At least from that pic.  If you saw a lot of wear on one side then I'd say replace it.

No Snotty,  the arrows are'nt pointing at the bushing,  it's the rubber behind that shaft.    What he's questioning is the actual metal out side of the bushing.  That whole metal area that the bushing fits in swivels in the arm,  it also has the arm for the height adjust bolt to push against.

Butch



43
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Brake Light Switch
« on: July 15, 2009, 05:30:42 AM »
What he said,  take the bolt out for the whole bracket & swap the switch out with it all out of the car.    The switches don't come with a new bracket,  you have to push the switch out of the bracket ( releasing the clip ) & slide the new one into the bracket.

When you re-install the bracket notice that it'll slide back & forth a bit.    You slide the bracket up till the switch is OPEN against the brake pedal arm.   That's how you adjust the brake switch so it goes off when the pedal is retracted.

Nothing to it.  2 wires & bolt.

Butch



44
Don't laugh,  the very first ones I did in my Dart I took out with a hammer & chisel cause I was too cheap to go buy the tool......and I was bound & determined to do it!

Butch



45
Tech- - Engine / Looking for any info on the 400ci (74')
« on: June 20, 2009, 05:20:42 AM »
The worst problem with a Stock 400 is the factory compression.   It's listed usually about 8.5 but more likely even lower.

A decent cam & Eddy intake & carb will still wake it up.

And they do make good strokers,   A buddy's 451 pushed his 66 Belvedere ( all steel ) to low 11's & now it's back on the street with just a cam change.

Butch



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