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Messages - Butch Houghton

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 10
16
Tech- -BODY / Windshield rubber 67 Dart 4dr
« on: January 19, 2010, 05:06:10 AM »
I don't see a 67 sedan gasket anywhere,  only thing I found was a 67 Convert gasket at rest specialties.

What a lot of A-body guys do is use the 68 - up Windshield gaskets with the 68-up trim clips & just find some used Stainless trim for the windshield.

Dante shows a 68-up 2dr/4dr gasket & he carries the windshield trim clips too.  very easy guy to deal with.

http://www.dantesparts.com/glassgaskets.html

Your buddy could install the 68 stuff & be driving it while looking for the stainless.

Trim clips go on first,  then gasket & windshield.   Trim just snaps on so it can be put on at any time.





17
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / aftermarket wiring harness
« on: December 23, 2009, 04:37:18 AM »
Should be,  uses the same good wire the others do & a lot cheaper.   Just be aware that the color codes won't match but the wires are marked for function  along their length.

You'll still have to use all your bulb sockets,  they usually give you new headlight connectors but I can't tell in their kit.    Theirs is like the others in that they use GM type connectors for turn signal hookup too but that can be adapted also.  

There will still be a lot of adapting to work with the original Dash stuff & wipers & such  but it's pretty straightforward.   A factory book would help crossing stuff.

I just used a Ron Francis Mopar kit & it still wasn't as plug & play as they want you to think but it's so nice to have all new wire & fuse box it's worth it in the end,   Painless Mopar kits are color coded correct but they're 450.00.    Not worth  it to me.

Butch



18
Tech- - STEERING WHEELS AND SUSPENSION / P.S. Pump Identification
« on: December 06, 2009, 09:11:12 AM »
Stan,  not sure you're aware of this but the 63-66 A-body's are about 2" narrower in the front between the frame rails than the 67-up A-body's. 

That's why you don't see many big block early cars.   A lot of work.    Smartest thing would be an AlterKtion front end,  lotsa room that way.   Shumacher does make conversion mounts & I wouldn't be surprised if their Tri-Y headers might fit but you'd have to check with them.

Go read over at Big Block Dart for info.....

http://www.bigblockdart.com/

Butch



19
General Mopar Discussions / What Motor should this be?
« on: November 27, 2009, 05:20:01 AM »
If it's an L code it's a 383-2bbl in 70.   N code is a 383-4bbl.   Got one of each here.

The aircleaner is wrong for a 70 also, should have rectangular snorkels that year. 

Might be the original motor in there with some changes obviously.

Butch



20
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / 9 1/4 rear: Running great!
« on: November 26, 2009, 05:48:59 AM »
Well,  there ya go....if you're not at all comfortable then let a good shop do it.

If it was an entire rear swap that's a piece of cake.    As long as the rears are from the same exact car.   The hard part is finding one for your particular car with the gear you want & not already worn out to where you wind up having to replace the bearings anyway.

This way at least you'll know it's all fresh inside.

Butch



21
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / 9 1/4 rear: Running great!
« on: November 25, 2009, 04:45:29 AM »

The hardest thing to set is the pinion depth.    When you don't have the right depth setting tool the smart thing is to re-use the original shims at the rear of the pinion.

The bad thing is the shims are behind the rear pinion bearing & it's pressed on & off so if it's off you have to pull it to change them.  Starting with the originals ( with a factory gear especially ) is usually gonna get you really close.   The front bearing just slips on.  Then there's the crush sleeve,  it's a one-time only use so if it's wrong you replace it.   I don't know if they make a solid spacer like they do for a 489 8 3/4.

the adjusters in the carrier make that an easy one,  after they're snugged up you use the dial indicator w/ a mag base to start checking the backlash ( usually around .008 ) ,   you turn one adjuster in & the other out thus moving the carrier left or right to get the backlash.

You'll need some way to hold the yoke when tightening the pinion nut,  close to 200ftlbs If I remember.   What ever the book says.   Ring gear bolts left handed as Steve said & make sure the carrier bearing caps are marked so as to go back in the original positions.

If it was me I'd use the original shims ( or measure them & use new ones of the same thickness ) & try it.   I bet it'll be OK.

Forgot,  we just make the carrier adjusting tool to use on a 8 1/4.    Long pipe with a handle at the end & a hex at the other but then if that tool is that cheap I'd just buy it!

Butch

HemiFury2009-11-25 09:48:32

22
Tech- - STEERING WHEELS AND SUSPENSION / steering gear box
« on: November 18, 2009, 06:27:18 AM »
Some of the confusion lies in that 72 back had 2 different sector shaft sizes.    Usually the Full size cars got the large sector & A-B-E's got the smaller one.    Yours should be a large sector.

73 up they supposedly all went to the Large Sector shaft.  The bolt pattern & overall size is the size for all power boxes with the same column shaft size.  Only the sector is different.

If you can send your box back through a local store for rebuild you should be assured of getting the right one back.   A friend sent his that way.   Steer & Gear & Firm Feel both are a bit more expensive but they do more that just rebuild,  they tighten them up to the specs you want.    I've got a S&G stage II in the Dart & a Stage III in the Fury.

coupler kits are no more than 20.00 from a lot of vendors & the Rag joints are available from Bouchillon for 80.00 or so.

Butch




23
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / speedo gear - where to buy?
« on: November 18, 2009, 06:14:20 AM »
John Cope still has em' for 20.00

https:/www.coperacingtrans.com/index.php?cPath=69&osCsid=e9c9f572af458a0675efa351ff78f232

I checked A&A trans too & even they want 59.00 now!

Butch






24
Tech- - Engine / Who's good at stroking?
« on: November 12, 2009, 06:40:23 AM »
No maybe to it,  if you use a 4" crank then you gotta have stroker pistons to work with that stroke increase.     Wrist pin moves up 1/2 the stroke increase generally but then you have different compression heights available too for different compression ratios.

Check KB for Hypers,  pretty sure they have them for the 360 w/4" arm in different comp ratios.    If you're building a nice torque motor not a race motor the stock rods should be okay.

Wind up with a 408 incher,   they make a lot more torque!  

Butch



25
Tech- - FUEL / Gas tank problem - Solved!!
« on: November 06, 2009, 11:16:16 AM »
Oh this one will hold up,   I'm probably hitting close to 550lb-ft of torque & I ain't killed mine yet!   Worth the 79.95 for it.

Butch



26
Tech- - FUEL / Gas tank problem - Solved!!
« on: November 06, 2009, 04:43:56 AM »
If you want a good one get a Poly from Shumacher's ,  that's what I used.

http://engine-swaps.com/

Butch



27
General Tech / 69 new yorker dual exhaust conversion help
« on: October 25, 2009, 11:18:16 AM »
The third pic is the one that threw me & now that I look closer that's a Hemi B-body.

The others I see how you did it, nothing wrong with that routing but I prefer to go outside straight to the notches.   The turns aren't as tight going that way either and the pipes stay completely away from the starter & trans,  gives lotsa room to work if you have to.

If I could get to the car I'll try to take an underside pic of the originals & how they route.

In the end there's plenty of room under for going either way.

Butch



28
General Tech / 69 new yorker dual exhaust conversion help
« on: October 22, 2009, 05:44:51 AM »
I have to disagree here,   the C-bodies go outside the T-bars.    My 70 SF still has it's original headpipes ( at least the first 3 feet! ) & they go outside.

If you look at the first 3 pics that looks like a B-body,  the notches in the trans X-member are inboard as all A-B-E's are.    The bottom pic with the headers is a C-body,  look at  the hard turn  the headpipes make to go out to the notches in the X-member.  All the C-bodies have the notches in the X-member outside of the T-bars.   All of them we've had done here are outside & that's either with the lo-po or High-po manifolds.

Butch



29
Tech- - Engine / What's my compression ratio
« on: October 09, 2009, 02:15:22 PM »
Well now your talking!   As long as you understand that you're good!  It sounded like you really believed it was gonna be 10.5.

I think we all know the last motor was a Fluke,  probably a weak rod bolt that just failed.   You are gonna use good bolts this time right!   LOL!


All this motor talk has me thinking.....the Hemi is old news, I do have a couple of 440 Blocks & a 4.15 crank & an Aluminum 6-pack intake & C-bod magnum manifolds already in stock.

Butch



30
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / How to put delay wipers in your C and B Body
« on: October 09, 2009, 06:14:44 AM »
The wiper motor mounting to the firewall is the same for all cars as far as I can tell up to at least the say the Dippy's,  FWD cars I don't know.   Same 3-bolt pattern for all A-B-C & E's.  The Aspen was the same pattern.

2 & 3 speed motors are the same bolt pattern & the delay motor looks just like a 2-speed ( if in fact it maybe is just that with a delay switch )  So bolting up isn't an issue.  Only issue would be the wiper transmission to the motors hookup where there is some differences.    Early cars had solid brass bushings & clips & the later cars had the Nylon snap-in bushings ( the ones that fall apart! ) but some mixing & matching should take care of that.  I think all you'd need to do is swap the motor arm to transmission for your style & that's it.

Butch



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