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Messages - Butch Houghton

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Site Questions and Announcements / Happy Birthday Butch!!
« on: November 05, 2010, 09:03:25 AM »
Belated thanks!  I never pay much attention to the top of the page,  LOL!

I keep trying to forget Birthdays & nobody will lt me!

Butch



2
General Tech / Wipers not recessing
« on: October 10, 2010, 06:34:55 AM »
Kinda like Bob says ,  they're pretty tuff.  I have broken Ice loose with mine & it still works fine.

Shouldn't need any NOS parts unless the points are broken.  Just clean & adjust.   That metal plate on the Plastic gear is what triggers the points to send it into reverse & the channels in the gear are what guide it to the park position.

I took the gear out of mine & used white lithium inside to freshen it all & un-soldered all the wires since the covering on the solid wire coming out of the motor is a fabric kinda stuff & heatshrinked them all.

I just did my Darts motor too & found this out.   The pic above is apparently just for the recessed wiper setup. You have the cam arrangement & the connections to the wiper linkage are just posts.    The Darts motor look identical outside but has no cam assy inside or points.  Non-recess type obviously on the Dart.    The park function on those is the plastic cam assy on the motor arm that connects to the linkage.

So if you're gonna replace you need to verify which one it is first.

Butch



3
General Tech / Wipers not recessing
« on: October 09, 2010, 04:34:31 AM »
Snotty,  try a couple of thing before you buy a whole new one.

Re-solder all the connections on the gear housing.  I had one get intermittent years ago fro a cold solder joint & that fixed that one.

You can remove the gear housing cover plat ( with the wires soldered on top )  & take a look at the Park points on the underside.    Before you pop the cover mark it's orientation to the housing,  If it gets off it can cause more issues.    When you get the cover off the points are just under & you'll see the actual park cam on top of the main gear.  The points are what trigger the motor into reverse so it slide into the cam to park them.  The arm on the points should be straight ( not curved as in this pic...I did straighten them ) & you can file them just like an old set of distributor points & get them clean.    I got that little bit of info from Jules about 6 years ago when I was working on it for the Fury.   Fixed it on mine & worth a try.



Butch





4
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / '69 Monaco w/ Electronic Ignition
« on: June 23, 2010, 06:23:42 AM »
Actually it was for Radio noise suppression .....the capacitor in the distributor was to keep the points from burning up.

But no ,  you don't need it.





5
Tech- - FUEL / Carter BBD 2bbl - worn clip?
« on: April 20, 2010, 02:33:13 PM »
Hot Idle compensator,  lots of Carters & some Holley's had em back then.    You could just close it off & the car would run fine.   I can't remember but if there's a small port in the chamber just block it,  stick the valve back in & put the cover plate back on.

Or just put the valve back in & the cover plate back,  probably still run fine but I just never trusted them to work right.

Butch




6
General Mopar Discussions / This is going to turn ugly. I can tell..
« on: April 09, 2010, 10:31:53 AM »
What I'm really tired of is this putting everybody else down nonsense,   whether it be on Moparts or here.   And that's what I'm seeing going on.

I'm done.

Butch



7
General Mopar Discussions / This is going to turn ugly. I can tell..
« on: April 09, 2010, 04:50:02 AM »
Actually there's 4 of us on the Dock that can Moderate somewhat.

For the most part the Dock runs pretty good without sticking our noses in.

If it's so bad don't go there

Butch



8
General Tech / Radiator Problem
« on: April 09, 2010, 04:41:51 AM »
Got a small Propane Torch & some solder?  fix it yourself,  not that hard.

Solder it back,  it's just a bracket .  Not like you're soldering the core.

Butch



9
Tech- - Engine / Rough idle
« on: April 04, 2010, 05:04:52 AM »

You need a PCV also.   Breather in one side & PCV in the other.   You get correct flow that way for drawing the crankcase fumes out.

PCV to carb base & the breather to the aircleaner is fiine,

I forget, what were your cam specs?   Probably is just the cam.

Butch

HemiFury2010-04-04 10:06:24

10
General BS and Laughs / I swear this is true
« on: April 03, 2010, 04:38:07 AM »
Amen,  & not just recent Immigration either.   

Butch



11
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / New Power Antenna needed.
« on: March 16, 2010, 02:00:21 PM »
All Factory non-power masts as well as aftermarket will unscrew from the antenna bases.

We just screw them on finger-tight & when we want to put a cover on just unscrew & lay it on the pass-side floor next to the seat.

Too easy.

Butch



12
Tech- - Engine / Lower Coolant Hose - why no spring?
« on: February 09, 2010, 11:32:08 AM »
If your really worried about it get some Stainless wire ( fairly thick ) & wrap it around a piece of PVC the same diameter as the ID of your hose.

Butch



13
Tech- - Engine / Idle solenoids
« on: February 09, 2010, 11:27:43 AM »
Nope,  if you read that post on the solenoids for the 6BBl ,  those were for anti -dieseling.  Still got one on my 6 Pack but doesn't work anymore cause the cheap repro mounting bracket is cracked about halfway through.

They Energize with the key on & you usually have to open the throttle just a bit to let them extend.  They typically don't have enough strength to open the throttle themselves.   The carbs on the 6BBl Have an arm with a screw that contacts the solenoid plunger & the screw adjust the idle speed .   The curb idle screw set the low idle speed with the solenoid retracted when you shut the key off.

The 4BBl carbs in to ( AVS ) had the solenoid mounted on the pass side rear & contacted an arm over there. 

The Holley solenoid would do the same I bet,  just hook it to IGN 12v so it energizes with the key on instead of when the A/C is on.

Butch



14
Tech- - Engine / Idle solenoids
« on: February 09, 2010, 06:18:02 AM »
That's alright.....I think the heat attack just woke me up!    Or maybe it's the better blood flow?  

Just as a thought,  maybe check Rock Auto & your local parts houses just to see if there's any solenoids out there cheaper.   That one is pricey but maybe they all are.

You could probably still use the Holley bracket.

I always took those off & tossed em'! ...LOL!   

Butch



15
Tech- - Engine / Idle solenoids
« on: February 08, 2010, 06:24:06 AM »
Holley does have their own brackets & solenoid .    Not cheap though.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=holley%20solenoid&dds=1

Butch






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