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Messages - Alan

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Tech- - Engine / Oil Pressure
« on: April 09, 2009, 01:42:03 AM »
I'm getting 12 lbs idle, 28 highway. I know when summer finally gets here that it will go even lower. I suspect as the engine gets looser it will also drop. There are no noises coming from the engine so it doesn't appear to be oil starved. I primed the hell out of the pump before I started it, and after about 300 mi the oil is still like new so nothing has worn. Any new or rebuilt engine I have ever put in has always run around 30lbs at idle. I tried adding an extra quart of oil that most say they do even though I don't loose pressure on hard brakes or starts. I'm going to call the rebuilder again and see if he wants to send me a new  HV  pump. After all I went through to get this engine in, I don't want  ruin it with low oil pressure.   67Newport2009-04-09 07:01:23

Tech- - Engine / Oil Pressure
« on: April 08, 2009, 05:26:28 PM »
I thought my new engine seemed low on oil pressure. When I called the rebuilder he gave me the 10lbs per 1000 rpm figure. I don't like my pressure being that low especially on a new motor. I think I'm going to swap in an HV pump. Although I saw this item as a quicker fix.


 Our new adjustable oil pressure relief valve is a great accessory for your big block Mopar. This unit simply screws in and replaces the original plug which holds in the oil pressure relief plunger and spring. This plug is drilled and tapped in the center with an adjusting screw which can be screwed in or out as desired. The screw is surrounded by a special liquid tight o-ring seal to eliminate leaks, and held in place by a ny-lock nut & ARP washer.
Screwing the plug in will put more pressure on the relief spring and raise the oil pressure, while screwing the plug out will release the pressure on the spring, and cause the oil pressure to drop. You can use this to custom dial your oil pressure exactly where you like it, even while the engine is running! (Challenge your Chevy buddies to try that one!) Works great for offsetting pressure loss or gain from specific bearing clearances, certain oil viscosities, etc, etc. Works with ALL oil pumps including factory pumps, aftermarket Melling pumps and Racing style billet aluminum pumps.
Part No: 200-1093 - Adjustable Oil Pressure Regulator - Price: $19.95

Tech- - Engine / Oil Pressure
« on: April 08, 2009, 03:34:42 PM »
I have been told that normal oil pressure for a stock BB is 10lbs per 1000rpm when warmed up. That sounds low to me. What's the general opinion? POLARACO2009-04-08 22:47:17

Tech- -BODY / Hood torsion bars
« on: April 04, 2009, 07:31:28 AM »
Thanks for the idea Chris. I used a ratchet tie down and it went right into place.

Tech- -BODY / Hood torsion bars
« on: March 29, 2009, 04:20:12 PM »
Hey steve, thanks for the info. Is there a 2nd page with that? The page ends before it tells you how to re-engage the torsion bar. 
I think I'll give Chris' idea a try before removing the cowl. 

Tech- -BODY / Hood torsion bars
« on: March 29, 2009, 01:26:48 PM »
You can see them in the pics. 

New engine.

As it should be.

The roller has to go back in the hinge.

Tech- -BODY / Hood torsion bars
« on: March 28, 2009, 01:44:53 PM »
The engine is in and running good.
Putting the hood back on is another story. While trying to align the hood, one of the torsion bars snapped out of place. After an hour of trying various tools to get it back in place and giving myself a nice ding on the chin when the crowbar went flying,  I decided to stop and ask the experts. Has anyone had the distinct pleasure of putting the torsion bars on?

Tech- - FUEL / cables, brackets & adaptors
« on: March 26, 2009, 03:31:09 PM »
The engine is in and just about ready to go. Of all the engines I have swapped in my life, this one took the most time. Not the easiest swap I have ever done.
The new Edelbrock carb and intake look great. The only thing holding me up is the throttle cable bracket. The original sits too low and the downshift part of the linkage hits on my new valve covers when it swings. Lea, you mentioned an Eddy bracket, do you have any info on this? I looked on their website but didn't find anything. I would think this is a pretty common setup, how are others overcoming this problem.

Tech- - Engine / Valley Pan Question.
« on: March 22, 2009, 05:29:03 PM »
I ended up using a combination of several of the replies. The original motor used no manifold gaskets, only the valley pan. I put a little silicon on the heads under the pan . I used a paper gasket between the pan and the aluminum manifold because I wasn't sure that it would seal well without a gasket given the different expansion rates. For the insulation blanket I stuffed some fiberglass insulation that I had leftover from a house project between 2 pieces of heavy duty aluminum foil. Im not sure that it has much of a function, but it fills the cavity between the pan and the manifold. The old one I took out was oil soaked and had acorn shells in it , so at some point during its 5 year dormant period before I got it, some mouse had made a cozy home. If my engine runs rough, I'll know where to look first.

Tech- - Engine / Valley Pan Question.
« on: March 22, 2009, 04:39:37 AM »
I have a question about valley pan gaskets for my 383. Most pans come with 4 gaskets, one for each side of the valley pan I'm assuming. I have heard that only 2 are needed. Which is correct?

Tech- - Engine / What's the best way to pull an engine?
« on: March 19, 2009, 05:23:19 PM »
The shipping weight for my 383 long block was 591. Add on 150lbs for all the running gear and your at at least 750 fully dressed.

Tech- - Engine / What's the best way to pull an engine?
« on: March 18, 2009, 05:49:05 PM »
I'm replacing the converter while I have mine out. Why leave a 40 year old converter in when your putting in a new engine? $85 bucks well spent unless you want to end up with strange vibrations like Stan did.  

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Bypassing the ammeter guage 101
« on: March 18, 2009, 05:42:50 PM »
Great info. I did mine last weekend, glad I did. Someone had previously replaced a section of wire with crimp on connectors and jammed a blade connector into the bulkhead connector. They had also eliminated the fusible link. It was a fire waiting to happen.  The whole corner of the bulkhead connector where the red wire goes through had melted off. On the other side the insullation on the wire was melted as well. I feel better knowing that now there isn't a direct feed from my alternator running through my dash.

Tech- - Engine / What's the best way to pull an engine?
« on: March 18, 2009, 05:25:20 PM »
I just pulled my engine out yesterday . Did it the traditional way, took the hood off and yanked it out. Left the tranny in so it was pretty easy. 

Tech- - FUEL / cables, brackets & adaptors
« on: February 13, 2009, 06:50:50 AM »
I'm putting a new engine in the 67 port in the near future and have some questions about what adaptors, bracket, and cables I will need. This is my daily driver so I'm trying to gather everything I need prior to the swap to eliminate downtime. The new engine will have an Edelbrock performer carb and manifold. Can I use the stock throttle cable or will I need to change it? I need to change my existing 2 bbl cable anyway. Lea has available both 2bbl and  4bbl stock cables. Can I use either of these on my new setup or is it better to go with aftermarket? Will the stock throttle and kickdown linkage /brackets work or do I need new ones.  I know edelbrock makes a Chrysler throttle linkage adaptor for stock cables but I'm not sure if I need it if I'm changing the cable. Lokar makes a kickdown setup, but I'm trying to avoid the hefty cost if I can. I'm sure this is a common setup so your experience is appreciated. Thanks 

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