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Messages - Alan

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Tech- - Engine / 440-WOB Part 2 - Continued...
« on: July 30, 2009, 10:26:59 AM »
I just found this.
What’s a babbitt?      The babbitt that we use in Model T and  A bearings (along with a host of other antique engines; both gas and steam) is a type of “white metal” bearing material known in industry as “tin-based” babbitt. (as differing from the sometimes softer lead-based babbitt; of which more later) According to records,  the Ford factory used a babbitt of approximately eighty five percent tin, seven percent copper, and seven percent antimony; the balance assumed to be impurities and various alloying agents. At the time, that type of babbitt was simply referred to a “hard pein babbitt”; the term referencing the tensile strength and high ductility* (compared to lead babbitt) of the material and the usual method of post-pour swaging or peining that was employed, not only to seat the babbitt in the journal box, but to compress the babbitt into a harder surface.
Ford accomplished this peining process when; after boring and semi-fitting/finishing the bearing by scraping (of which little was done) the crankshaft was clamped tightly in the new bearings and  the bearings were “burned in.”   More precisely they were “burnISHED in.” This burning in process involved the crankshaft being so tight in the bearings that when revolved by a thirty-horsepower machine the bearings were liberally oiled; the oil was supposed to smoke, or the bearing was considered to be too loose and shims were pulled and the whole process started over until the oil smoked!  
    There have been endless discussions and much derision of this process.  K.R. Wilson was highly critical of it, though not, as we shall see, because it didn’t work but rather because it was at variance with what he sold.  As a mass production method, for this type of bearing, is was an ingenious system!
67Newport2009-07-30 15:31:15

Tech- - Engine / 440-WOB Part 2 - Continued...
« on: July 30, 2009, 10:17:43 AM »
 If my memory serves me correctly, in the model T era you could make your own bearings by pouring molten babbitt material in the rod and main caps. The caps were then scrapped to get hem close to size and then the crank was put in and spun to get them to the correct size. It may be a little more complicated than that, but that is the general idea I think. 67Newport2009-07-30 15:25:10

Tech- - Engine / 440-WOB Part 2 - Continued...
« on: July 28, 2009, 10:44:07 AM »
Here's Stan's new motor during the testing phase. 
Sorry Stan I had to share this.
[/u][/i][/b]67Newport2009-07-28 15:45:17

Tech- - Engine / 440-WOB Part 2 - Continued...
« on: July 24, 2009, 06:46:12 AM »
So the advice here is....if you have an unmodified 440 with original rods, you should avoid  mashing the pedal to the floor with a quick let-off???  What about with a standard tranny? Other than power shifting, how can you avoid that cycle? and more importantly, how would you impress the girls if you can't do hard shifts?

Tech- - Engine / 440-WOB Part 2 - Continued...
« on: July 21, 2009, 03:23:49 PM »
How do you see the chain of events happening? The rod could have let go and the piston jammed in the top of the cylinder and a valve slammed into it and snapped the camshaft which destroyed the lifters and valley. I suppose it could have started on the top end too if a lifter imploded and jammed the cam and forced a valve into the piston which bent the rod. Have you pulled the head to see what the top of the piston and the valves look like? 

Tech- -BODY / Trim fasteners
« on: July 14, 2009, 02:49:16 PM »
All the ones I removed are plastic. Very similar to wall anchors for mounting on sheetrock. I'll give RT a call tomorrow. If I can't locate any, Stan's idea looks like it will work if I can find the right size.  While I'm on here, what should I use as a bedding compound/sealer around the trim mounting holes? What was originally used was similar to seam sealer but it didn't harden as much.

Tech- -BODY / Trim fasteners
« on: July 14, 2009, 11:01:08 AM »
Its on the side moulding that runs front to back on the Newport Custom. I'd include a picture, but don't want to risk Stan's wrath again about my photography skills.
67Newport2009-07-14 19:39:00

Tech- -BODY / Trim fasteners
« on: July 14, 2009, 04:02:48 AM »
Stan, here's a pic. I took a quick spin through RT but didn't see anything. Yes, I'd love to borrow your flange plier. The shipping will be cheaper than buying it, thanks.
67Newport2009-07-14 09:03:10

Tech- -BODY / Trim fasteners
« on: July 12, 2009, 02:36:50 PM »
Now that the new engine is all set, I've decided to start on the body work and painting. I wasn't to anxious to start it because I've never done body work before (the correct way), so I'm learning as I go. Now that I'm into it, the challenge of bumping the metal and making patch panels so that I use the least amount of bondo is actually kinda fun. As I remove the trim, I'm finding that the pieces that have no rear access are held in with pushj in plastic anchors. Are these available from supply houses? I've briefly looked on a few fastener websites, but haven't found them yet.  67Newport2009-07-12 19:38:32

Tech- - Engine / Update on my oil pressure problem
« on: April 12, 2009, 10:03:28 AM »
It came with a new pump but it turned out to be defective. I put the old one back on to see if I still had low pressure. The pressure was good so I knew that that the new pump was bad. 

Tech- - Engine / Update on my oil pressure problem
« on: April 12, 2009, 07:51:22 AM »
My new pump won't be delivered until tomorrow so being restless and wanting to know what was causing my low pressure,  I took my old pump apart and checked it out for wear. It looked ok so I pulled the new pump and put the old one back in, changed the oil and filter and started it up. The pressure was 40 lbs at cold idle, so I drove around for a while to warm it up. I ended up with 20 lbs at idle and 35 lbs when I'm driving and thats with a 42 year old pump. That verifies that the problem was the pump. The rebuilder said to send him the bill for the new pump and he'll reimburse me for it.  The new HV pump should give me even better pressure.
I have to say, I'm glad I don't have a GM car. Changing the oil pump would mean dropping the pan.  Changing a Mopar is a breeze.

Tech- - Engine / Oil Pressure
« on: April 10, 2009, 09:56:38 AM »
I have a new HV pump on the way. Because it was always low, I don't think it is bearings. I'll find out Monday night when I put the new pump on. The pan that I was trying to use was different than the stock one. The area where the plug was had been changed to a 45 degree angle instead of at a right right angle with the bottom. This is where the pickup tube was hitting. I used a new pickup but I even tried the original one and it still hit.

Tech- - Engine / Oil Pressure
« on: April 09, 2009, 09:15:35 AM »
That was with an aftermarket oil pan I had bought. It hit on the pickup. I went back to the original pan.

Tech- - Engine / Oil Pressure
« on: April 09, 2009, 06:07:23 AM »
10W40 0il, mechanical guage. Its steel coiled over a plastic line which usually prevents kinks, but I'll check it tonight.  When I first drove it 2 weeks ago the pressure was slightly higher. It seems to be slowly getting lower.67Newport2009-04-09 11:24:28

Tech- - Engine / Oil Pressure
« on: April 09, 2009, 05:15:51 AM »
Yes, where the original sender was.

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