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Messages - attkrlufy

Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6 7 ... 17
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Last parts question: Wires and plugs?
« on: March 22, 2011, 10:48:19 AM »
Down to the final two items (I hope).  I'm swapping out the lean burn for orange box electronic ignition soon.  Since "I'm already there" noodling with wires and such, I figured this is a good time to upgrade the other engine electrics, so I bought an MSD Blaster 2 ignition coil.  My question is about spark plugs and wires:

What type should I get and how much do different "builds" affect performance?

I wanted the MSD to give me more volts for the spark - so I'd like some wires/plugs that will capitalize upon this.  I don't mind spending a couple extra bucks on something that will work - frankly, I'd rather spend $100 on something that gives a noticeable change, than $30 on something that doesn't seem to do a lick of difference, you know?  But I also realize there's a point of "diminishing returns" when it comes to cost.


Jegs and Summit seem to have a good selection.  It looks like all the high-end wires have these characteristics and cost around $70-$100:
* Silicon jacket, 8mm+ spiral core
* RFI shielded / suppressed
* 50 ohms/ft resistance

So is it worth it?  Like, if I go 7mm vs 8mm does it matter?  Bigger?  8.5mm+?  Does a spiral core matter?
I imagine the lower the impedance of the wire the more efficient it is at transmitting the spark - is THAT what I should focus on?
I'm also guessing the RFI shielding affects my car's other electrics (like the radio), not the engine, itself.  But since I plan on putting in a "nice" stereo - that's probably a key attribute, right?  Or does it even matter?

Spark plugs:

I'm looking for efficiency/longevity, here.  What will work best wih my new electronic ignition system?  To me, spark plugs are spark plugs....but looking around online there are people who SWEAR it makes a difference once you upgrade the coil.


General Mopar Discussions / Check it out! Wanda's online!
« on: March 22, 2011, 10:07:19 AM »

Quote from: POLARACO
BTW. . .Nice Hat 
If you're gonna drive a car like that, you gotta look the part.    Plus, the universe (or genetics) stole all the insulation off the top of my head years ago.

Quote from: firedome her down to
Bingo again sometime this Spring!  Guys, Dom's had her down to my garage
 2 or 3 times, and she is one sweet 5Th Ave!  Sounds even better in person.
I would if I could, Roger.  You see the forecast for tonight?  SNOW (and lots of it)!  Which means road salt.  Is it April, yet?

Thanks for the compliments, guys.  I haven't really "done" anything to the engine - other than clean it up and replace a ton of gaskets/small parts.  That sound is just duals w/ H pipe and Dynomax mufflers.  It's still the same cam, valves, intake, carb (though the TQ was rebuilt).

An aluminum hi-po intake and J / X heads would be nice, though.  :)  One day.....

General Mopar Discussions / Check it out! Wanda's online!
« on: March 21, 2011, 05:14:42 PM »
So, yeah, this weekend I put my new digital video camera to use and filmed a bit of Wanda with the (vague) intent to throw something up on the inter-webs.  I figured it was high-time an R-body New Yorker gets some YouTube time, you know? sure to stay to the end.  There's a bit of a surprise if you're patient.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / two ballast resistors?
« on: March 16, 2011, 10:53:20 PM »
I'm almost done collecting the parts I'll need to scrap my leanburn and put on an electric ignition system.  I'll write my other questions in this forum later, but right now I have a question about the ballast resistor.

My car already has one - a 2-prong.  The "orange box" Mopar conversion kit I bought also came with a 2 prong resistor.  Everyone says I need a 4 prong ballast resistor for the electric ignition.  But because space is at a premium on the firewall, and I don't want to drill holes if I don't have to, I was wondering if I could ditch both 2 prong resistors and get this instead:

Wouldn't this work just as well, too?

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / So what's this plug do?
« on: March 04, 2011, 06:50:14 AM »
Well, I think I'll first have someone put a tester on this circuit - hopefully it's just a bad ground.

And if it's not...sheesh.  I really don't want to put on a new proportioning valve assembly.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / So what's this plug do?
« on: March 01, 2011, 11:53:23 AM »
Sorry, guys, it's not that I don't believe you, I just don't understand how the SENDER can be the problem.

My understanding of the way this system works is that within the prop valve is a metal "slider" that has a notch in its center.  If the fluid levels are balanced F&R the slider is centered in the valve.  And if there's a pressure imbalance of some kind, the slider moves either F or R towards the low pressure zone.  The sender is just a metal rod that sticks down and fits within the "gap" on the slider.  If the pressure is equalized, the sender doesn't touch the slider.  But when pressure drops, and the slider moves, it comes into contact w/ the sender - completing the circuit - and thus the warning light goes on.  It's the same principle behind the board game "Operation."

So how can the sender - a passive piece of metal - be at fault?  That's what I don't get.  To me it would seem more likely to be a problem with the prop valve or downstream in the lines, somewhere.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / So what's this plug do?
« on: February 28, 2011, 05:24:47 AM »
Never noticed anything wrong with the brakes - but then again, I don't drive Wanda that hard.  I DO know I wish I had a little more stopping power.  But I don't think I've ever locked any of the wheels up in normal braking situations.

The light for the e-brake worked fine while the unit was unplugged.  When the e-brake was engaged the light went on.  When the e-brake was released, the light went off.  Leads me to believe the problem is somewhere in either the sending unit or the prop valve.

I've never done any brake work before, so just a point of clarification: If I unscrew the sending unit on the proportioning valve to replace it with another, won't that either a) introduce air into the brake line and/or b) send brake fluid shooting everywhere?  Even if it's not under pressure, since the prop valve is lower than the fluid reservoir, won't the liquid pour out as it seeks a common level?  This sounds like it'll make a mess.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / So what's this plug do?
« on: February 27, 2011, 04:02:50 PM »

Quote from: Snotty
I could imagine there having been a problem and someone unpluged the sending unit wire.
Funny you should write that, Snotty.  You should go into business predicting the weather.

So I start Wanda up today in anticipation of salt-free roads (aaaaany day, now...) with that cap back in place and - wouldn't you know it - the second the car starts the brake warning light is glowing red hot like the Three Mile Island power plant (too soon?).  The E-brake is off...and yet, there it is, glowing away.

So I drive around the parking lot a bit, take a few turns, the thing never waivers.  It's glowing red.  I unplug the boot - no more light.

So that's bad.  Does it mean I need a new portioning valve?

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / So what's this plug do?
« on: February 17, 2011, 11:55:04 AM »
Yep, it is.  Cleaned and greased the sensor and cap and popped it on this afternoon.  Glad that's back in place.  I'm lucky nothing went wrong with my brakes while it was off.  

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / So what's this plug do?
« on: February 16, 2011, 07:04:03 PM »

Quote from: dana44
That makes sense, but  the question is, WHAT THE HECK IS IT DOING ALL THE WAY UP THERE?
I have no idea.  Maybe someone did brake work on Wanda in the past and forgot to plug it back in.

Is it a connection I should use dielectric grease on or does it "sense" brake pressure some other way?

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / So what's this plug do?
« on: February 16, 2011, 07:01:53 PM »

Quote from: thrashingcows
The black/brown wire with the socket type boot?  Well that goes down to the stud off the top of your proportioning valve....brake warning light.
Oh that makes sense.  On my portioning valve there's four threaded openings but only three tubes coming out of it.  The fourth has a cap with a little "nub" on the end.  I guess that boot fits over top of it.

Thanks.  :)

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / So what's this plug do?
« on: February 16, 2011, 04:55:28 PM »
Today I was cleaning up the engine bay in my '79 New Yorker (360 v8) and I found an unplugged plug.  I have no idea what it's for and I can't find it in my Service Manual.  It's got a part # on it's side (3513624) but I checked my '79 Parts Catalog and that # isn't listed.  It's buried in with the wires that run through the conduit right next to the cruise control assembly - perhaps it's part of that?  My CC isn't currently working.....maybe it's related to that?

Just thought I'd try a longshot and see if any of you guys here know what this plugs into and what it's for.  You can see it located between the CC servo and the diagnostic port for the lean burn computer:

MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / Project list / resolutions for 2011
« on: February 01, 2011, 01:00:40 PM »

Quote from: dana44
You can even do the new/updated leaf spring stuff yourself, we have talked about it several times and it is about a three/four hour job.
Oh I remember.    I've got your hints saved.  I'm going to see if I can't do the "adding the extra leaf" procedure myself.  I don't think I'll need the bushings - the springs only have 4-5K miles on them.  And while they're off, that's when I'm going to add the antisway bar.

Now, if THAT doesn't give me the lift I want, then I think I'm going to take the car to Elmira Spring to get 'em re-arced.  We'll see.

Tech- - Engine / LA vs B/RB air cleaner size. Same or different?
« on: February 01, 2011, 12:48:56 PM »
I agree that the symmetrical snorkels look better, but I don't think
that kind of air cleaner will work on my car unless I re-route some of the
plumbing - and even then I'm not so sure.  Take a look at the heater hose and A/C compressor in my engine bay:

The heater hose behind the A/C compressor needs that "dimple" to nest in - which rules out early '70s air cleaners.  Even if I routed the hose below the compressor, I think the compressor's rear extends far enough back that a non-dimpled cleaner would interfere with it.  I don't want to spend $150+ to find out if I'm right or wrong.  I'll go with what I know works.

....And while we're on the subject of aesthetics, Snotty, even though I like the symmetry of that air cleaner you showed me, I never liked the square-mouthed snorkels.    I dunno why....there's something inelegant about them.  I much prefer the look of the oval-mouthed inlets.

Thank you, ladies and gentlemen, that concludes today's broadcast of "What not to Drive" a.k.a. "Queer Eye(ver) for the Straight Driver"

Tech- - Engine / LA vs B/RB air cleaner size. Same or different?
« on: January 31, 2011, 03:00:14 PM »

Quote from: POLARACO
Still better off with cold air
You addressed this in the "projects" thread, so I'll answer it here.

I agree.  That's why I'm planing to build a factory-looking cold-air intake like the one used in the Warlock/Lil Red Express:

There's a guy who's done something that's probably more effective:

...but, personally, I'm not a fan of the way it looks.

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