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Messages - attkrlufy

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Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / cop R-body diff size? 11" brakes on 8 1/4"?
« on: May 21, 2008, 01:04:18 PM »
I've finally located a guy who has TWO (WHOOO-HOOO!!!) Police spec R-bodies in my area.  But I have two questions about differentail size and brake systems:
1) The owner of these cars seems to think the differentials are 9.25" units.  He says no R-body (1979-1981) came with an 8.75" rear.  I always thought the rear on an R-body cop car was usually 8.75".  It was too dark to look at the fender tags - I was wondering if anyone here could clarify this since I can't get back 'till next week. 
2) Will 11" rear drums mount on an 8.25" rear?  The reason I ask is because I'm REALLY tempted to swap out the HD brake system from the cop cars into Wanda.  Wanda has a 8.25" rear and I don't want to have to change differentials if I don't have to.  I'm moving to an area that's CRAZY hilly (it's worse than Pittsburgh and as bad as San Fran ), and I like the idea of beefier front and rear brakes on my 2 ton car, you know?  So, if I'm going to make this work, I need to know if I can make the swap on a stock 8.25" differential.
I ask because if 11" drums won't mount on an 8.25" rear, and if the cop cars have 9.25" rears, I don't think I can do this.  I don't want 3.23 gears - which the cop cars probably have.  I like my 2.71 setup.   I think you can find 2.71 gears on an 8.75" rear - but I don't think you can find that on a 9.25".  Am I right about that?

Tech- - Engine / Observations:oil foam + shake the car, not stir it
« on: May 21, 2008, 12:09:11 PM »
Quote from: MoparMatt
You don't need Mobil-1, that's a synthetic.  Find a brand of conventional oil to your liking and stick with it.
I only picked that one because everywhere around here seems to sell it.  Is there a reason not to use a synthetic w/ my car? (360 4v)  Do you have a conventional oil brand suggestion?
Oh, as for the "shake" - I'm pretty sure it's the lockup slipping.  I'm going to try someone's advice from here and put in the anti-slip additive to my tranny fluid.  I'll let you guys know how it works.

Tech- - Engine / Observations:oil foam + shake the car, not stir it
« on: May 19, 2008, 06:27:37 AM »
I could imagine mixing two 'incompatible' oil might have the same result.[/QUOTE]
Actually, yeah - not the SAME color, but similar.  The oil was much lighter than regular oil, foamy, and all over the place.  But after sitting long enough, the oil returned to the regular black-brown.
I probably did mix regular and syntheic.  I mean, it's not like I really stick to one brand or even type (10W40, 5W30, etc.) so I wouldn't be surprised if there was quite a mixture in there.
Now I feel like an idiot.  I always thought oil was oil.
Well, it's been 3K mi since the last oil change - I think what I'll do is drain the pan, change the filter, and fill it up with a brand I can easily find in the future and STICK to it.  I'm thinking Mobil 1.  Then we'll see if this problem persists.

Tech- - Engine / Observations:oil foam + shake the car, not stir it
« on: May 18, 2008, 07:56:42 AM »
I don't know if I saw condensation - or what it would look like even if I saw it - unless it was literally dripping with beads of water.  The problem is I don't plan on driving it long distance on the highway for another month or so - so I'm going to have to wait before I show you guys some pics.

Maybe it's not something as serious as a head gasket?  What about the valve cover gaskets?  If they were bad wouldn't it cause the same frothing phenomenon?  I ask because I've been taking a hard look around the engine and my left valve cover gasket looks pretty smushed, splayed, and in otherwise crappy condition.  There's lots of what looks like fresh oil weeping around it, too.

Tech- - Engine / Vacuum vs. digital advance
« on: May 18, 2008, 07:48:40 AM »
Thanks for the advice on this matter, guys.  I think I'm going to go with this MSD unit:

It seems the simplest and most durable way to replace my lean-burn.

Do I understand this product correctly?  There's nothing else I need to add to the system - just the distributor.  It sounds a little weird - I always thought there had to be an external spark box in these add-on systems....but maybe not.

Anyone use this or know of someone who has used it?

Tech- - Engine / Observations:oil foam + shake the car, not stir it
« on: May 15, 2008, 08:32:11 AM »
Crap.  I've noticed a bit more valve tick recently - it's probably related.
Regrading the tranny:
I had the torque converter replaced a few months ago because it went bad.  It SHOULD have been fixed.  But the speed made me think "torque converter" as well.  The speed when the shudder occurs - 35-50mph - isn't that around when the converter locks up?
I don't think it's the U-joints because when I got the tranny worked on I took a look, and the mechanic and I both thought the U joints were fine.  THat was only 6 months and 400 miles ago.  I doubt much changed in that time span - but I'll look just to be sure.

Tech- - Engine / Observations:oil foam + shake the car, not stir it
« on: May 15, 2008, 07:26:42 AM »
Regarding oil:
Maybe it's because I've mixed oils - though, I never really had a problem with that in the past.  I didn't really think it would be a problem under normal driving conditions.
I have a pinhole leak in the very top of the radiator so I do lose coolant when I fill the radiator completely.  But the coolant level always stays consistant when the coolant is below the hole.
Yes, on the dipstick, the oil is milky and foamy.  However, the oil itself isn't showing signs of sludge, I don't see white smoke out the tailpipe, I haven't seen oil floating in the coolant, and the oil level isn't higher due to coolant pooling in the pan.

Tech- - Engine / Observations:oil foam + shake the car, not stir it
« on: May 14, 2008, 02:07:42 PM »

Ummmm.....Mobil 1?  Chevron?  Bit of both?  Nothing off brand, though.  No additives.

No white smoke, either.  Waaaaaaaayyyyy too much carbon - but nothing white out the tailpipe.

attkrlufy2008-05-14 19:08:19

Tech- - Engine / Observations:oil foam + shake the car, not stir it
« on: May 14, 2008, 12:15:21 PM »
Wanda and I are back from our Wheeling-Philadelphia-Ithaca-Wheeling road trip.  Good thing the alternator blew three days before.  It would've sucked to have been stranded in central PA or upstate NY.

Things I noticed I need to address:

At 60mph I get around 18 mpg.  Not good.    I've gotten 20+mpg at that speed in the past.  My deteriorating carb/spark situation is starting to feel extravagant and wasteful.  Especially with 87 octane near $4/gal.

The car bucks/shakes like crazy between 35-50 mph under light throttle.  I used to think it was a spark/fuel problem 'till I noticed A) it's only the car that shakes.  The engine never actually sputters and B) it does it EVERY time EXACTLY between that speed range.
I'm now thinking it's a transmission issue.  It's especially bad up hills - but it will happen on any inclination.  I can get Wanda to stop bucking like a bronco by pressing on the throttle.  I think the only reason it stops doing that around 50 is because to get it up to that speed I need a good amount of throttle to begin with.  Plus if the transmission's slipping, that might explain the worse highway mileage.  What do you guys think?

This one has me confused:
My oil starts looking like chocolate mousse after driving at highway speeds for about an hour.  I'll check the oil levels on the dipstick, and the WHOLE of the dipstick shaft is covered in this foamy, brown substance.  If I wipe the dipstick off, put it back in, then take it out again, the entire stick is again covered.    What's going on?  Is air getting in?  Do I have a blown headgasket?  What is causing my oil to resemble a dessert topping after taking it on the highway?  That can't be normal - I've never seen it before.

Tech- - Engine / AAARRRGGHH!
« on: May 08, 2008, 07:04:39 PM »
It's definitely the RV2.  ....Big 'ol hunk-'o-pig iron sitting atop the engine sapping power and existing as a monument to inefficiency.

But my original instincts were correct - it was the alternator that was bad, after all.

Can you believe the dealership wanted to charge me $200 for a new alternator?!   I was able to talk them down to $100 - still about $40 more than I wanted to spend.  But it was worth it to me for the same-day convenience.  Wanda's back and ready to cruise tomorrow. 

Tech- - Engine / AAARRRGGHH!
« on: May 07, 2008, 06:39:43 AM »
It's not the air injection - the belt's been off that for years.  Just for S&Gs I checked it a while ago and it spun freely.  That way if I have to throw a belt on quickly to pass inspection it won't be an issue.
I'm starting to think it might be the AC compressor.  It's orignial 1979 vintage - which means it's horribly inefficient and heavy.  The AC didn't work when I bought the car so it's not like I'm going to miss it all of a sudden.....
Should I just remove the compressor (for now)?  If I can't do that, is there an easy way to bypass it without having to replace the damn thing and spend a small fortune doing so?

Tech- - Engine / AAARRRGGHH!
« on: May 06, 2008, 04:33:15 PM »
Typical.  Three days before I'm supposed to take Wanda on a major road trip, SOMETHING seizes up and fries my belts.

It's either the compressor or the alternator (or both? ).  I think it's the alternator because I was hearing this grinding noise that sounded like someone was vigorously shaking a tin can full of marbles.  Then I heard a "ping".  Then I smelled that coppery-ozone kinda smell that usually accompanies overheated electrics.  I managed to limp home and my poor belts were literally smoking.  However, I'm not 100% sure about it being the alternator because my ammeter didn't register
a discharge - which it should have if the alternator went and the
engine was still running.  I don't think it was the water pump as the temp didn't spike - and I doubt it was the crank going.

So, yeah, I had to tow Wanda to the local Dodge dealership.  They should have a spare part (alternator or compressor) for this car on hand, right?  I mean, I know it's pretty easy to put either one of these things in - I just want the car by Friday.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Radio swap - up to 2000 works?
« on: May 06, 2008, 04:20:31 PM »
See that's interesting....

Snotty had problems going from a truck to a car - but going from a mini-van to a car was no problem for CBarge.   That's Chrysler for ya'.

Thanks for the offer, Polaraco - but I think after this last post I'm going to see about pulling a head unit from a car - just to be safe.  It shouldn't cost more than $15-$20 total, anyway.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Radio swap - up to 2000 works?
« on: May 02, 2008, 10:12:22 AM »
Sorry if this has been addressed somewhere else, but I looked and couldn't find anything...

The factory 8-track on Wanda (1979 New Yorker) is dead.  Eventually I'm going to put something nice in - but for now I'd like to just get "something" in there that works.
I just want to double-check that most any Chrysler sound system from the 80s and 90s will plug in and work in my car with no need for modifications.  I'm curious - how close to the present will these systems switch with mine?  Was it in 2000 that the systems changed?
So, for example, would this swap into my car even though it's fairly modern:
I have my eye on an Infinity I system:
But I'd LOVE to find a cheap, working Infinity II.......for that 80s look, mostly. 

Tech- - Engine / Vacuum vs. digital advance
« on: April 30, 2008, 04:21:52 PM »

Thanks for the warm welcome, guys.  I appreciate it.  

The TBI system sounds nice - but I think it's a little too much $$ for me right now.  Truth be told, I didn't even KNOW such a product existed.  Now it's got me thinking that at some point in the future I might be able to get an MPI injected Magnum 360 under the hood.  But for now, I think I'll stick to carburetion.

So you think a modern spark-control system is better than a vacuum-advance one.  Can I ask why you think that?  Is there something about the older Mopar system that you want to avoid when compared to the newer products out there?

You'd also go with Edelbrock over Holley, right?  Is there a reason?  I think Holley makes a direct replacement for my Thermoquad:  I'm not sure Edelbrock make a Thermoquad replacement.  I think the 650cfm Thunder AVS is the closest match - but isn't that a square bore carb?  Won't that require an adapter to fit my intake?  Then there's emissions.......

I ask because I really am looking for the closest automotive equivalent to "plug-n-play".  I don't want to have to tune this thing too much or deal with spacers, manual chokes, etc.  I want this car to be a "driver" that I take to the occasional show.  I'll figure out "tuning" it later - for now I just want it to work properly and with minimal fuss.

I's a New Yorker.  I'm not planning to race anyone in it. 

attkrlufy2008-04-30 21:22:56

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