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Messages - attkrlufy

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 17
16
Tech- - Engine / Distributor vacuum advance: how much pressure?
« on: July 13, 2011, 09:36:00 AM »
I posted this on Allpar but I didn't really get much help and the one answer I got makes no sense to me - even though I really don't know what I'm doing - so I thought I'd try you guys:

I recently scrapped the lean-burn in my car for an orange box
electric ignition.  A mechanic friend came over to help me set the timing
 ('79 360 & 4v).  We pulled the vac line from the carb to the
distributor and with the engine running tested how much vacuum the
distributor needed before advancing the timing.  Turns out it won't
advance the timing until there's about 15-17 in/hg pressure.  My friend then
 said it should start to advance at 5 in/hg and so I need to replace the
vacuum advance diaphragm on my distributor because it's waiting too long to advance the timing.  The only reason I want a 2nd opinion is because the
distributor is brand new from the elec ignition conversion kit, so I'm a bit wary of replacing brand new parts.


So here's the response I got:
Quote
The purpose of the vacuum advance is to ONLY advance the distributor at
light throttle. At light throttle, the engine can use the extra advance
for better fuel efficiency. At full throttle, the vacuum drops and the
mechanical advance built into the distributor is the only one used or
you will experience "pinging" or in other words "detonation" which leads
 to mechanical failure. It sounds like yours is working correctly.
There are 2 things I don't understand about that reply.  1) I thought when you have an elec ignition, you don't have weights in the distributor.  I thought weights were only with points.  2) if he says vac advance is for "light throttle" - and my vac advance "is working perfectly" when it kicks in at 15 in/hg - how can that be considered "light throttle"?  To get that much vacuum from my thermoquad, I'm practically at WOT.  If my mechanic friend is saying the vac advance needs to kick in at 5 in/hg, then that sounds more like "light throttle" than 15 in/hg does.

Anyone know who's right?



17
Tech- - FUEL / I need new fuel pump recommendations (funny story)
« on: July 13, 2011, 09:14:43 AM »

Quote from: 1965Windsor361
Here is a great deal from Mancini Racing in Michigan:

Carter Fuel Pump
Am I nuts or is the pump listed for $109.00, yet at the very bottom of the page it says the M6902 retails for $99.95? 

Also, the spec on this pump's line pressure says it's 5.5-6.5 psi - but I seem to recall a stock small block fuel pump puts out about 7.5 psi of pressure.  Is this going to make a difference if I buy this pump and my line pressure is a bit lower?


18
Tech- - FUEL / I need new fuel pump recommendations (funny story)
« on: July 11, 2011, 10:19:58 AM »

Quote from: POLARACO

They're all junk these days.  And that is not unheard of.
What about Holley?  Aren't they still made in the states?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-12-838/


19
Tech- - FUEL / I need new fuel pump recommendations (funny story)
« on: July 11, 2011, 10:17:25 AM »

Quote from: POLARACO
Probably a check valve got stuck sloshing the fuel back and forth in the lines.
Not sure I understand that.  Isn't the check valve in (or near) the tank to prevent the unwanted movement of gas in a rollover.....or something to that effect?

Quote from: POLARACO
How'd you get home?
Driving home I had to keep my RPMs up, so I didn't let her idle too much.  I'd shift into N at a light and rev the engine or shift into 2 or 1 at low speeds.  When I had to stop (like at the fill-up station), I didn't linger too long so as to make sure there was enough gas in the line for the engine to catch since - with the engine off - pumping the gas gets no fuel to the carb.  If it turns out to be the pump, then it's dying, not dead.

As it was, there was one time at 65mph when I thought she was going to quit on me again.  But I started pumping the throttle hard and that fixed things.

I guess it's at the point where without high RPMs and/or line vacuum the pump just can't get enough fuel to the carb.  For the past three weeks the car has been REALLY hard to start if I haven't been driving it for a while.  I'd have to mash the throttle ten or twelve times and really put my foot down for the engine to catch.  I thought that was a bad choke.  But I'm guessing now that it was a sign the pump's starving the carb for fuel.


20
Tech- - FUEL / I need new fuel pump recommendations (funny story)
« on: July 11, 2011, 04:25:22 AM »

Hey, all.  I Just got back from Carlisle and now I need some help.  File this story under: "This is why I can't have nice things."

So Wanda and I entered the display for judging for the first time ever, and turns out she won 2nd place in her category!  Which was awesome because there were quite a few REALLY nice cars.  So on Sunday, after going to the winner's corral for the morning, I line up in the parade and head down to the photo station in front of the stands.  Other than the fact that it's hot and taking forever, everything seems to be going well and I'm enjoying the buzz of being lumped in with a stunning array of beautiful cars.  And then....

....Wanda dies in formation.  The engine RPMSs dropped really low and then she just cut out and wouldn't start back up.  Even better still, it happened at the bottle-neck RIGHT before getting to the grandstands.  So in front of everyone, the Carlisle staff had to move a few cars that were on the side and help me push her out of the way so the parade could continue, since there was no room for anyone to get around me.

*sigh* 

I think it's a fuel delivery problem and I'm pretty sure it's the fuel pump.  With the car dead on the side of the road I was pumping the throttle, trying to start her up, but no gas was coming out of the jets.  I even removed the cap to make sure it wasn't vapor lock.  The maintenance staff had some starting fluid and she fired up and ran okay - but I didn't want to risk stalling out again even closer to the photo station, or worse - not being able to get home that night - so I just left the event.

The thing is, it was A NEW PUMP that I installed only 3K ago!!!!  It was either an AC Delco or a Bosch pump.  But the point is, I can't believe it failed so early.  And, for God's sake, why did it have to fail RIGHT THERE, RIGHT THEN?   

So who makes a good fuel pump?  Seriously, after that debacle, I don't care what it costs - I want to know a really reputable and RELIABLE pump manufacturer's name so I don't have to worry about if the pump I buy "was built on a Monday."

attkrlufy2011-07-11 09:26:10

21
UPHOLSERY HOW TOO's / How do you clean trunk carpeting/lining?
« on: June 26, 2011, 03:42:05 PM »

Quote from: thrashingcows
These don't have the fiber board backing do they?
No.  It's pure fabric.  Which is nice on one had because I don't have to deal with the problem you mentioned above, but on the other hand it means they're all creased and wrinkly from being balled up in the trunk of a junked NYer.  I don't know if simply cleaning them will get all the creases out.

Maybe after I clean them, I can steam the wrinkles out?  Like you do with a suit and one of those portable steam cleaners....?

Quote from: firedome
I like
to do it in the driveway on a sunny dry day (good luck here in NY on
that one).
Jeez....you got that right, Roger.  When was the last time we saw the sun?  Last week?

The other problem is, I don't have a "driveway" since I live in an apartment complex.  Maybe the other tenants won't mind walking on the grass to get around me as I scrub these bits clean on the walkways. 


22
General Tech / A good rattle-can paint?
« on: June 26, 2011, 03:33:26 PM »

Quote from: thrashingcows
I had a 73 340 roadrunner and I redid the air cleaner at one point.  I'm pretty sure I went down to my local parts house and they gave me their paint swaths so I could match the orange paint on the air cleaner.  Once I found one that matched I had them mix up a aerosol can.
I tried going that route first.  My (only) local auto paint store has all the Mopar exterior chips going back to the '50s, but only has some of the engine bay chips.  We went through all his books and we were able to find the proper Chrysler blue and red engine colors - but no orange.  :(

Quote from: thrashingcows
Looking at the color on the website, I think it's the Hemi Orange.  The air cleaner color is very bright.  Here's a pic of the engine in my old roadrunner...



Wow.  What a beautiful engine-bay!

I think you're right - I think it's the hemi-orange, too.  My semi-NAPA actually had a chip book for dupli-color from a few years ago.  Looking at their chips, DE1622 (Chrysler orange) was way too dull and red to be the right color.  I don't know if DE1652 (Hemi Orange) is right - but it looks a lot closer to the above image.  So I'm going with that.


23
UPHOLSERY HOW TOO's / How do you clean trunk carpeting/lining?
« on: June 24, 2011, 05:48:42 PM »
I've just pulled the entire trunk carpeting and lining from a junked '79 New Yorker.  I'm super excited because my car had no trunk trim whatsoever and I can't wait to "finish" that part of my car.  But before I can put it in, all the pieces really need a good, thorough cleaning.

How the heck am I supposed to do this?  And by "how" I mean what set-up should I use?  The side pieces are kinda small, but the trunk liner is big.  Do I lay down a tarp and get on my hands and knees and scrub it with a wire brush and some solvent?  Actually, what should I even use?  Soap and water?  Carpet cleaner?  Can I get the fabric wet or will that ruin it?

Any tips and tricks would be appreciated.



24
I decided to give the machine shop in Ithaca another shot.  The owner felt bad about the crappy job his guy did, so he said he'd cut me a good deal on fabricating four new links from scratch.

Dana44 - I used your design but the guy modified it a bit.  He said the wings were overkill.  :)  He admitted it WOULD NEVER BEND if it was built that way, but he said there was a cheaper and more time-efficient way of going about it.  So we'll see.  We're going to use 1/4" plate and the link will have a much thicker bar (I want to say either 5/8" or 3/4").  It's also going to be a bit shorter - about 1/4".

Now if THAT bends - well, he said he'd weld the wings on for free.

They'll be ready Monday - just in time to make it to my first car show of the year on Wednesday at 5:30PM in Dundee, NY.

You going Roger?  It's not too far from Bingo.  :)  I know for a fact there will be at least one other '79 NYer there and it's a beauty.



25
General Tech / A good rattle-can paint?
« on: June 23, 2011, 05:57:48 PM »
Quote from: stitcherbob

NAPA sells Engine paint that closely matches the factory colors (I used Mopar Turquoise on my 440)....

Yeah, but the NAPA where I am is horrible.  They never have anything because they're 1/2 the size of a normal NAPA.



I think I'm going to do what FIN_NV suggested and go to Autozone or
Advance Auto and get the Dupli-color Engine Enamel spraycan in Mopar
orange.  It's a glossy finish and good for 500 degrees so it's exactly
what I want.



But I have one question about the colors.  Their catalog shows two Mopar oranges.  Take a look:



http://www.duplicolor.com/products/enginePaint/ 



Scroll down to where they show the available colors.  They list a
"Chrysler Orange" and a "Chrysler Hemi Orange."  So, guys - which do you
 think is the proper color for my air cleaner?


26
General Tech / A good rattle-can paint?
« on: June 22, 2011, 09:54:43 AM »
I've got to paint my newly blasted dual snorkel air cleaner the proper mopar orange and I was wondering what brands you guys like and where you get them?  I'm looking for something that gives that nice, glossy, enamel-like covering but is also safe for the high-heat under the hood.

I haven't had much luck with rattle-can paint in the past.....I was hoping you had a go-to brand that's easy to find.



27

Quote from: POLARACO

ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ  I was asleep Dom.  What I miss?
Where have I heard that before....oh, right.  From my wife.    Anyway, here are the pics.

Broken front link still in the car:



A bit more detail for the same link:



Broken rear link still in the car:







A bit more detail for the same link:



As you can see - they snapped clean off at the weld point.  That shouldn't have happened.  The weld SHOULD'VE been the strongest point, not the weakest.  Someone was asleep at the welder.

Here's something interesting - a pic of the plate from the front link that wasn't broken.  It's CLEARLY bent and twisted:



An engineer friend of mine calculated the force acting against these links at 1583.3 ft/lbs on each link.  What can I say - a New Yorker is a heavy car.

I think it's too much torque for the 3/8" shafts and 1/8" plate.  I'm going to try going up to a 1/4 plate and a thicker shaft.

So here's the dilemma: do I go with a "known" expensive product - $250 for 4 links, ouch! - from Firm Feel Industries (scroll to the bottom of the page to see their HD links)......:

http://www.firmfeel.com/swaybars_b.htm

......or do I go back to the guys that didn't exactly weld this properly in the first place and see if they can't fabricate something more HD at half the price?  They said they would make 4 HD links for me for about $150 since they feel bad about screwing up the first batch.







28
Okay.  I'm going to take them off tomorrow.  I'll get pics for you guys.


29
So....minor setback....

The company I asked to make four new swaybar links for me so I could switch to universal bushings apparently can't do quality work.  2 of the 4 links (one in the front, one in the back) have snapped where the link meets the bushing "perch".  They lasted about a month.

I don't want to use them again since I said from the get-go that this was for an HD application as the car is heavy.  Since they're the only game in town, I have to go back - what should I tell them to do?  Is there a proven way to really beef-up the contact point where the link meets the perch?  Is there, like, a collar, or something, that will increase the diameter of that joint to make the weld stronger?



30



Quote from: CBarge
You should read up on Richard Erhenberg's Green Brick if you have any old Mopar Action magazines.
Oh yeah, I'm quite fond of its exploits.  It's an awesome car.  Unfortunately, I don't exactly have the deep pockets and decades of training that those guys have.  :)

However, speaking of 2dr post A bodies - I just came across this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-plymouth-valiant-2-door-post-/320711639800?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item4aabe742f8#v4-44

Whaddaya think?  Talk about simplicity - it's practically a blank canvas.  From the factory: 1) 2d post A-body 2) no P/S 3) no P/B 3) no A/C 4) no radio and 5) manual gearbox!  There's no engine or tranny in it (which is good), but since the drivetrain was a manual box, there's no need to add a clutch pedal, etc.  I just need to make the 3-on-the-tree a 4-on-the-floor.

The amount of rust on it could be an issue.  $750 seems a bit much if parts like spring hangars are so rusty they need to be replaced.  Makes me wonder what the rest of the underside looks like - description be damned.  But maybe I could get it for $400-$500 if it doesn't sell?
attkrlufy2011-06-15 12:27:44

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