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Topics - attkrlufy

Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5]
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / cop R-body diff size? 11" brakes on 8 1/4"?
« on: May 21, 2008, 01:04:18 PM »
I've finally located a guy who has TWO (WHOOO-HOOO!!!) Police spec R-bodies in my area.  But I have two questions about differentail size and brake systems:
1) The owner of these cars seems to think the differentials are 9.25" units.  He says no R-body (1979-1981) came with an 8.75" rear.  I always thought the rear on an R-body cop car was usually 8.75".  It was too dark to look at the fender tags - I was wondering if anyone here could clarify this since I can't get back 'till next week. 
2) Will 11" rear drums mount on an 8.25" rear?  The reason I ask is because I'm REALLY tempted to swap out the HD brake system from the cop cars into Wanda.  Wanda has a 8.25" rear and I don't want to have to change differentials if I don't have to.  I'm moving to an area that's CRAZY hilly (it's worse than Pittsburgh and as bad as San Fran ), and I like the idea of beefier front and rear brakes on my 2 ton car, you know?  So, if I'm going to make this work, I need to know if I can make the swap on a stock 8.25" differential.
I ask because if 11" drums won't mount on an 8.25" rear, and if the cop cars have 9.25" rears, I don't think I can do this.  I don't want 3.23 gears - which the cop cars probably have.  I like my 2.71 setup.   I think you can find 2.71 gears on an 8.75" rear - but I don't think you can find that on a 9.25".  Am I right about that?

Tech- - Engine / Observations:oil foam + shake the car, not stir it
« on: May 14, 2008, 12:15:21 PM »
Wanda and I are back from our Wheeling-Philadelphia-Ithaca-Wheeling road trip.  Good thing the alternator blew three days before.  It would've sucked to have been stranded in central PA or upstate NY.

Things I noticed I need to address:

At 60mph I get around 18 mpg.  Not good.    I've gotten 20+mpg at that speed in the past.  My deteriorating carb/spark situation is starting to feel extravagant and wasteful.  Especially with 87 octane near $4/gal.

The car bucks/shakes like crazy between 35-50 mph under light throttle.  I used to think it was a spark/fuel problem 'till I noticed A) it's only the car that shakes.  The engine never actually sputters and B) it does it EVERY time EXACTLY between that speed range.
I'm now thinking it's a transmission issue.  It's especially bad up hills - but it will happen on any inclination.  I can get Wanda to stop bucking like a bronco by pressing on the throttle.  I think the only reason it stops doing that around 50 is because to get it up to that speed I need a good amount of throttle to begin with.  Plus if the transmission's slipping, that might explain the worse highway mileage.  What do you guys think?

This one has me confused:
My oil starts looking like chocolate mousse after driving at highway speeds for about an hour.  I'll check the oil levels on the dipstick, and the WHOLE of the dipstick shaft is covered in this foamy, brown substance.  If I wipe the dipstick off, put it back in, then take it out again, the entire stick is again covered.    What's going on?  Is air getting in?  Do I have a blown headgasket?  What is causing my oil to resemble a dessert topping after taking it on the highway?  That can't be normal - I've never seen it before.

Tech- - Engine / AAARRRGGHH!
« on: May 06, 2008, 04:33:15 PM »
Typical.  Three days before I'm supposed to take Wanda on a major road trip, SOMETHING seizes up and fries my belts.

It's either the compressor or the alternator (or both? ).  I think it's the alternator because I was hearing this grinding noise that sounded like someone was vigorously shaking a tin can full of marbles.  Then I heard a "ping".  Then I smelled that coppery-ozone kinda smell that usually accompanies overheated electrics.  I managed to limp home and my poor belts were literally smoking.  However, I'm not 100% sure about it being the alternator because my ammeter didn't register
a discharge - which it should have if the alternator went and the
engine was still running.  I don't think it was the water pump as the temp didn't spike - and I doubt it was the crank going.

So, yeah, I had to tow Wanda to the local Dodge dealership.  They should have a spare part (alternator or compressor) for this car on hand, right?  I mean, I know it's pretty easy to put either one of these things in - I just want the car by Friday.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Radio swap - up to 2000 works?
« on: May 02, 2008, 10:12:22 AM »
Sorry if this has been addressed somewhere else, but I looked and couldn't find anything...

The factory 8-track on Wanda (1979 New Yorker) is dead.  Eventually I'm going to put something nice in - but for now I'd like to just get "something" in there that works.
I just want to double-check that most any Chrysler sound system from the 80s and 90s will plug in and work in my car with no need for modifications.  I'm curious - how close to the present will these systems switch with mine?  Was it in 2000 that the systems changed?
So, for example, would this swap into my car even though it's fairly modern:
I have my eye on an Infinity I system:
But I'd LOVE to find a cheap, working Infinity II.......for that 80s look, mostly. 

Tech- - Engine / Vacuum vs. digital advance
« on: April 28, 2008, 07:25:22 AM »
Hi guys.  I'm new here and I'm hoping someone can help me out.  I'm the proud owner of a '79 New Yorker w/ a 360 4v.  I'm in the middle of deciding what to do with my 1) Tired, old, leaky Thermoquad and 2) Screwy Lean-Burn ignition system and I'm looking for some help.

Regarding the ignition system, there seems to be two ways to go about this: I can get either A) Mopar electric ignition w/ vacuum advance, or B) Aftermarket system with digital advance (MSD?).

So here's the question:

"If they both do the same job, which system should I get?"

I'm leaning toward an MSD-equivalent system because they seem to have fewer moving parts and (in my book) fewer parts = less things to break.  How's my logic here?  (In case you haven't guessed, I don't really know much about this stuff.)
Or, another way of putting it would be: Is there any reason I shouldn't get a system which has pre-set digital advance curves?  I don't care so much about "stock" as I do reliability and efficiency.

I've asked this question over at the Allpar forums but no one's answering it.  Maybe I'm not clear, I dunno.   

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