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Topics - attkrlufy

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5
Tech- - Engine / Engine sludge removal - worth it?
« on: June 15, 2009, 07:39:21 AM »
As you can see - my engine is "sludgy."  There's all these fine particles embedded in this sludge that seems to be everywhere.  It doesn't wipe off, either.  It's oil-glue-sand mixture.

I imagine it would be smart to de-grease the now-open engine cavity and valves, but I don't know:
A) if it's worth it, or
B) how I would even begin to do it while leaving everything in place, and
C) not leave a residue of cleaner that would kill the internals of the engine

Any thoughts?

Tech- - FUEL / Fuel pump replacement
« on: June 09, 2009, 04:22:08 AM »
So I've just taken the fuel pump out - I figure while I'm doing all this other work to the engine why not replace it?  I mean, who knows when I'll have such easy access to it again?  Plus it's got near 100K on it.  The timing seems right.

I have a few questions, though. 

1) Do I need to lubricate the arm of the new pump before installing it?  When the old one came out it was pretty greasy.  Is that some kind of special lubricant or was that just engine oil?

2) What type of new pump should I get?  I want a strong, robust pump that's not going to break easily.  But I don't want to get the wrong pump.  I don't think I need a "racing" or "high volume" one, you know?  Or do I?

Any thoughts?

Tech- - FUEL / Intake stuck
« on: June 09, 2009, 04:10:55 AM »
So here's what I've been up to lately:

But I've hit a wall.  I've removed all the side bolts on the intake but I can't get it to lift off the engine.

Anyone have this problem before?  How did you get the intake off?

Also, while we're on the subject of intakes - what's up with the stuff in mine:

I've never seen one of those brass-thinggys inside an intake before (not like I've looked inside many intakes, though.).  What does it do?  And does that hole on the driver's side opening mean I'm missing a brass thinggy?  This is a 1979 360 w/ thermoquad set-up, BTW.

General Tech / Best coolant hoses/clamps?
« on: May 13, 2009, 07:50:35 AM »

There seems to be a lot of useless self-promotion online about the "best" type of coolant hoses and so I thought I'd check in with you guys.

I'm replacing all the coolant hoses (who knows how old they are), pulling the radiator, and replacing the thermostat this weekend (360 V8) and I'd like to know what type of hoses to put back.  What's the "best" kind of hose to use?

By "best" I mean: longevity and strength.  I don't care if they look stock or not.  I just want them to work dependably and be the most durable - meaning less prone to leaks and 'splosions. 

Also, while I'm on the subject, do the clamps matter?  There seem to be two kinds 1) Spring-tension clamps and 2) screw-adjustable clamps.  And those screw-type seem to come in many varieties:  the clamp has "teeth" built in, clamp has no "teeth" - the screw is on the outside, clamp has "teeth" but they don't contact the hose, etc.

Any thoughts on the matter?

attkrlufy2009-05-13 12:52:15

Tech- - Engine / Let's play: Name Those Sensors!
« on: April 17, 2009, 11:36:30 AM »
I'm in the process of figuring out what sensors I keep and what sensors I discard when I switch from leanburn to elec. ignition.  I'm down to four sensors that I'm not 100% sure what they do and was wondering if you guys could help me out.  The engine is a 1979 360 4v with ELB and California emissions package:

My finger is pointing to a sensor behind the thermoquad.  1) Is this the engine temp sensor?  It's got a brass fitting at its base which is why it looks gold.  2) Do I need to keep this when this when I scrap the ELB?


My finger is pointing to two sensors.  The green sensor with two vacuum lines coming out is, I think, the CCEVS (Coolant Controlled Engine Vacuum Switch).  I believe I need to keep this as it works the idle-enrichment system on my thermoquad.

The sensor behind it is giving me pause.  According to my FSM, this is where the Coolant temp sensor that the ELB uses is located.  I traced the wire and it looks like it ends up in the same bundle that goes to the ELB computer.  HOWEVER, the pic below also has what looks like the same sensor:

My finger is pointing to another sensor on the PASSENGER side next to the A/C compressor and behind the oil dipstick.  Below is the blow-up:

This wire also looks like it goes into the bundle that goes to the ELB computer.  Do I have two coolant temp sensors?  The base looks this the CCEGR valve?  I don't think it is, because the CCEGR is ported w/ 2 vacuum lines....but I don't know what it could be. 

Also, if it isn't the CCEGR valve then where the heck is mine because I think I'm supposed to have one.

Any help is appreciated.  :)

Tech- - Engine / New EGR w/ clogged crossover - will it work?
« on: April 14, 2009, 07:09:30 AM »

I had the pleasure of seeing Firedome again yesterday and introducing "Wanda" to him.  It's nice to be able to bounce ideas off another local R-body guy, you know?  There aren't that many of us around.

Anyway, I told him my plans for Wanda this summer and he told me to take "removing the intake and boiling it" off the list.  I don't think I have a problem with the intake - the only reasons I wanted to do that were 1) to clean it (it's gross) and, 2) to make sure the intake crossover is clear of carbon.  I don't KNOW that it's clogged, but I figured if I was going to remove the valve covers to clean them and put on new gaskets, take out the leanburn and put an elec ignition system in, replace the EGR valve, clean the electric choke, and swap the old thermoquad for a rebuilt one - why not just take off the intake and clean that, too, while I'm down there?

But he made a really good point about intakes being tricky to remove and reinstall I'm inclined to listen to him.  So I have just one question:

IF the exhaust crossover is clogged on my intake, will the new EGR I plan to put on still work properly?

attkrlufy2009-04-14 12:22:40

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Replace Ignition Coil?
« on: April 10, 2009, 02:45:21 PM »

Just out of curiosity - when I scrap the leanburn in my car and replace it w/ a Mopar electronic ignition, should I replace the ignition coil, too?

It's 30 years old but seems to work fine.  Still....I was thinking that if I'm going to all the trouble of converting the car's ignition, shouldn't I take advantage of the opportunity and put in a new coil?  I don't know much about them - I don't know if they work perfectly until they break, or if their effectiveness slowly diminishes over time.

I was thinking about this item:

Ebay Item # 330318676230

What do you think?  Does it look reputable?  These can't be that hard to install.  It looks pretty much plug 'n play.

attkrlufy2009-04-10 19:48:01

Tech- - Engine / Cold = Blue smoke, warm = none??
« on: December 19, 2008, 06:58:46 PM »
The title pretty much says it all.

After meeting w/ Firedome last weekend, I decided to take his advice and run my car once a week for 15 min or so, since I can't drive due to all the road salt that's out.

So, I start up the car (360 4v) and it runs rough for a few minutes (temp hasn't gotten above 35 here in weeks).  There's definitely blue-ish smoke coming out the exhaust while the car's warming up.  After it's warm, the exhaust is clear.  This has now happened twice.

My guess is some engine part is experiencing "shrinkage" (The pool-water was cold, I swear!) and is letting oil into the combustion chamber while the engine is cold, but it expands enough to block the oil after warm-up.

What's causing that?  Piston rings....valves.....something else?  I've got worn valve seals (thanks Firedome) because I get a blue "puff" at startup regardless of temp....would that be the cause?

Tech- - Engine / Ignition control boxes. Color = ?
« on: October 20, 2008, 07:53:18 AM »
Real fast - is there a difference in performance between the electronic ignition boxes with different colors?  I've seen:


I feel like I'm looking at a Johnny Walker product line.  Orange boxes seem to be the most popular.  Is there a reason?

General Tech / Cleaning and removing intake
« on: October 16, 2008, 11:17:06 AM »
I'm prepping for some fairly major surgery to Wanda in about 3 weeks and thought this would be a good time to get some info about how to clean the intake.  I'm also cleaning the valve covers, too, as they're a mess.

Any tips/tricks for taking off the intake and cleaning it?  Any cleaning products to recommend?  Anything to avoid doing while the intake is off?  I know to pull the electric choke heater assy. off before cleaning it....anything else?  Can I leave the other 8 million sensors in the intake assy. alone or do they come off, too?

I think this is a good time to get into the intake for two reasons:

1) The outside is FILTHY.  It's worse than my bedroom closet when I was in college.  There's oil and gas and crud and somethings that look like pudding(???!!) everywhere.  I've got a new Thermoquad going on top of it and I think this will be a good opportunity to clean all the muck off.

2) It's FILTHY on the inside, too (probably)!  The valve cover gaskets are shot meaning oil is everywhere over the top of the engine (the Oil breather and PCV no longer working isn't helping, either).  I wouldn't be surprised if that heater/crossover thinggy (I forget it's name) is also mucked up and I doubt the EGR works anymore, what with all the carbon and oil swirling around/in the intake.

I'm looking for comments and suggestions.  I don't think this will be easy - but I'm not expecting too many problems.

General Tech / Dual exhaust - what's it cost?
« on: October 08, 2008, 07:05:22 PM »
Look - I'm a poet and I didn't even know it!

With the the Thermoquad soon-to-be fixed, I want to tackle the way this puppy breathes.  The single exhaust was hacked up by some reject ages ago who didn't realize when you DOWNSIZE the pipe you kill the car's ability to move air in and out.  He also routed it wrong, so the pipe smacks against the rear axle on bumps.  When I drive Wanda on some of these Ithaca roads, it sounds like a Neil Peart drum solo.

I want to convert my single exhaust to dual exhaust, and (of course) I've got more than a few questions.

1) What should something like that cost me approximately?  I have no experience with exhaust work so I don't know if an estimate I'm getting is honest or realistic.
2) How wide should the exhaust pipes be?  Do you guys think 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" is right for a 360 4v?  I'm not trying to win races or intimidate the neighbors....I just want a nice boost in HP without killing my ears at idle or light-to-moderate throttle.  Quiet=good.
3) I notice a lot of people get either X or H pipes when they get dual exhausts.  Should I do that?  What's the benefit of something like that, anyway?

Thanks for your help, guys.

Tech- - FUEL / Fuel lines
« on: September 19, 2008, 09:16:21 AM »
I have access (sorta) to my "old" parts car - and might be able to pull the remaining parts off it that I didn't get a chance to when it was mine.

My question:

Are the fuel lines the same in R-body cars with 2bbl carbs and 4bbl carbs, or are they different?

I ask because I need a new fuel line, my car has a 4 bbl carb and the doner has a 2 bbl.


Tech- - FUEL / Thermoquad part - not sure what it is
« on: September 09, 2008, 05:56:19 AM »
I think I'm going to bid on this Ebay Thermoquad:

The price is right and it's supposed to fit my (decrepit) 1979 360 V8.

But before I do, I have one question for you guys:

What's the green wire coming off the back for?  It looks like it goes to a part that's piggy-backed off the carb fuel delivery line.  Is it some kind of pump?  I'm trying to visualize my Thermoquad and I can't remember if mine has that green wire/part.

What if my carb doesn't have that part?  If I put that new one on and that part wasn't hooked up, would that carb work okay, anyway?

Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / A500 bolt on to old engine?
« on: August 27, 2008, 11:48:15 AM »
I know Polaraco mentioned doing this in the past with a modern 5.2 - but what about an old LA engine?

Will the A500 (40RH/42RH) transmission bell match up with a 1979 vintage 360 V8?  I know he said it'll fit in the tunnel but new mounts will need to be made.  I assume we're talking about a custom driveshaft, as well.

I'm assuming the hydraulic versions of the A500 will be easier to work with in matching to my car (I doubt adding the 40RE/42RE will be anything other than difficult)....what's the feasibility of something like this?  The more I think about it, the more I REALLY want that 4th gear and I'm not ready to let go of my 360.

That and my tranny is slowly decaying with age.    Its demise is only a matter of time.

Tech- - STEERING WHEELS AND SUSPENSION / PS Pump belt. Catch 22?
« on: July 25, 2008, 04:26:22 AM »

            I'm in a weird spot w/ my power steering pump belt and I'm wondering if you guys have any insight.

I bought the car, the belt squealed like crazy above a certain # RPM -
usually at 55 mph and higher. So I eventually tightened the belt by
adjusting the pump.

I think I overtightened it, because the
squealing stopped, but a few months later, the pump began leaking
("pouring" is more like it) fluid out the pulley shaft. A friend felt
the tension on the belt and told me the belt was too tight and I had
probably worn out the shaft seal b/c there was too much pressure on it.

I replaced the pump and set the belt to about where the normal amount
of tightness should be - and it's squealing again. Less loudly, but now
at 50 mph.

I don't want to tighten it more and risk going
through another pump - but driving it on the highway or empty country
roads is a little tiring and embarrassing.

So what's the deal?  I feel like I'm damned if I do and damned if I don't.

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