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Topics - attkrlufy

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Tech- - Engine / Bucking/Stalling
« on: August 10, 2010, 09:37:01 AM »
Since I've replaced the old Thermoquad with a different TQ, my 1979 New Yorker (w/ 360 V8) has displayed fairly constant behavior.

Under light throttle the car will buck and surge in a rhythmic motion.  A few times it will stall.  It doesn't matter what gear I'm in or what speed I'm going - if I apply a light throttle this rrr-rrr-rrr-rrr-rrr bucking motion ensues.  If I step on the throttle harder, it goes away.  Not sure if this matters, but it seems to be worse when the car is pointed up a hill and has to accelerate from a stop.  I have stalled much more often this way.

I described this to a local mechanic and he thought (without actually witnessing it) that it sounds like a bad accelerator pump.

Whadda you guys think?

General Tech / Muffler size/style ?
« on: June 24, 2010, 07:20:11 AM »
Can someone help find the specs on the mufflers my 1979 New Yorker uses?  Specifically, Does anyone know the following about my car's muffler:

1) Offset (style)

2) Shell length

3) Overall length

I've got a guy putting in dual exhausts w/ H-pipes.  I asked for help with this ages ago in this thread: and I'm finally getting around to doing it.  (Did I mentioned I'm giddy as a school-boy?)  

I'm taking CBarge's advice and going with DynoMax Super Turbo mufflers and 2 1/4" dual pipes from manifold to tip.  However, the mechanic putting in the pipes can't get Dynomax products.  So I have to order them and get them to him myself.  But I'm in Washington DC for the next week and a half so I can't see the car or take measurements of the muffler size/shape.

P.S. Anyone going to Carlisle?  I'll be there and I'd love to show you guys the work I've done to Wanda this past year.  Because, truthfully, I couldn't have done it without all your help.  :)

Tech- - FUEL / To drain or not to drain...
« on: May 13, 2010, 08:31:44 AM »
...that is the question.

Next weekend - after much too much delay - I should be starting Wanda up for the first time in a little over a year.  All the work I've done to rehab the engine and replace the myriad worn/leaky/non-functional parts will come to a head as I turn the key and pray nothing goes flying through the sheetmetal.  So here's the question:

The gas in the tank is about 14 months old.  Should I drain the tank and put in fresh gas or should I just run the car with the gas already in it?  I have never drained a tank before so I have no idea what to do or any knowledge of how easy/hard it is.  I realize in an ideal world it's important to have fresh gas in the tank......but would draining it be one of those "laws of diminishing returns" or is it actually an important thing to do after 14 months of sitting idle?

Tech- - Engine / Thermoquad bolts
« on: March 23, 2010, 07:31:37 AM »
I have a 1979 360 w/ a Thermoquad and I'm in need of 4 new bolts for its base.

I removed the four bolts at the base that secure the carb to the intake and now I can only find two of them.  I looked around online and can't seem to find these specific bolts for sale.  Maybe I'm using the wrong terms?

Are these bolts specific to carburetors or will any bolts do?  Anyone know where I can get replacements?  Thanks.

Tech- - FUEL / Fuel hose sizes?
« on: March 23, 2010, 06:44:38 AM »
Just a quick question.....

I'm putting new rubber fuel hoses on my fuel supply and return lines (before the fuel pump).  The old lines were both 5/16" hose (they were also not factory original).  That size seemed to fit the return just fine, but the 5/16" hose didn't seem to fit the supply very well.  I REALLY had to mash it to slide over the line.

Is my car telling me something Should I be using the next-larger size hose (3/8" ?) for the supply or is 5/16" hose okay?

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / New Power Antenna needed.
« on: March 15, 2010, 03:41:34 PM »
Could ChryCo. have made the 1979 R-body power antenna any harder to get to?  3 hrs of removing the passenger side fender to take out a part that came out in 2 minutes?  Are you kidding me???!!! 

The point is, I need a new power antenna unit - the whole thing, mast and motor.  I don't want to deal with modding something to fit and I don't want to solder wires together. 

Does anyone make a factory-spec, plug-n-play power antenna assembly for this model car?  All the aftermarket units I've found don't fit and/or don't have the factory harness.  Or maybe there's a better place for this part than eBay, 'cause it wasn't much help.  There's one guy in Michigan who has a 25 year old unit here:

But he doesn't know if it works, he will not test it, and he will NOT come off his "no refunds" policy (I asked).  If it arrives and it's broken - well, I'm out $75.

So I'd rather not play Russian roulette w/ $75.  I don't care if I pay $100 - I want to know the thing WORKS.  I simply don't have time to rebuild a bad unit.

Any ideas?

General Tech / Kerosene - what's the deal?
« on: March 15, 2010, 03:17:38 PM »
I'm in a situation where time is of the essence.  I need an exceptionally good oil cutter with minimal cleanup in order to clean the block of my engine as well as strip off old remnants of intake and water gaskets.  Two people I know have mentioned kerosene as the product of choice.

Now I'm no rocket surgeon, but I remember kerosene being extremely flammable.  So why would I want to WIPE DOWN MY ENGINE with it?

I'm told it needs no clean-up (they claim it evaporates 100% in a few minutes) and cuts oil like a champ.  However, I want to make absolutely sure of this - that if I start wiping my engine block down with kerosene I don't have to worry about blowing myself up when I start the car.

I'm trusting you guys here w/ my life.        I know, I know......

Tech- - Engine / Lower Coolant Hose - why no spring?
« on: February 08, 2010, 09:06:10 PM »
Why can't I seem to find someone online (Summit, Jegs, RockAuto, Napa, etc.) that sells the lower coolant hose for my car (Gates #20958) WITH the spring inside?  Isn't that supposed to come with.....or is that a separate part?

General Tech / Asking for help via an online listing - how?
« on: January 23, 2010, 04:57:20 PM »
So I'm in a bit of a spot regarding future work to my car and I'd like some advice.

Back in the fall I knew I was going to need surgery to repair two hernias.  I was told they were no big deal and I'd be back on my feet in two-three months.  Well turns out I needed a ton more work so the long-and-the-short of it all means I will not be in any physical shape to do any auto work for the next several months.

I've gotta get some help and I'm thinking of placing an ad online.  I MUST get Wanda running by July.  I WILL NOT miss another Chrysler's at Carlisle.  Grrrrrr....

Anyone have any experience doing something like this?  How much is a good wage to offer?  Do you do it by job or by hour?  Are there certain phrases/words to use/avoid when placing this ad?  Any red flags I should be aware of when meeting people?

Thanks.  I appreciate your help on this one.

Tech- - Engine / Timing chain line-up
« on: October 05, 2009, 06:11:03 PM »
I don't think I screwed things up...but I don't think I helped myself, either.  I'm replacing the timing set on my 360 and after removing the harmonic balancer and timing cover I find this is my situation:

If you can see, the timing mark on the cam sprocket is at around 8 o'clock and the timing mark on the crank sprocket is at around 3 o'clock.  I thought I had reached TDC on #1 cyl. but I guess I was wrong.
So here's my question.....can I just pull the timing set and then replace it with the replacement set - making sure the timing marks are in the same place, or should I rotate the crank 1/4 turn to the L to get the timing marks to line up at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock respectively?

General Tech / Bolt Hole Cleaning Method
« on: September 21, 2009, 03:47:31 AM »
Anyone got a good one?  I'm mostly done tearing down the top of my 360 and before I put anything back (timing cover, water pump, intake, valve cover, valve rocker-rails, etc.) I want to clean out all the bolt holes to make sure there's no trapped oil or other gunk in them.
Anyone have a good way to clean out all those bolt holes?  Is there a specific product made for that or do I have to rig something together?

Tech- - Engine / Two Pushrod questions
« on: September 21, 2009, 03:42:07 AM »
I took them out of my 360 (to clean them) and kept them in "order" (front to back) in case their oder is not interchangeable.  But are they?  Could I just plop the front-most one into the rear-most slot?
Also, does it matter which end is up?  Some of them seem like they have a little nub or nipple at one end - but others don't.  Does this mean anything?

General Tech / Do I "oil" removed engine parts in storage?
« on: July 15, 2009, 09:54:30 AM »
Pretty much what the title sez....

I noticed the side of my intake (where the it "contacts" the valve intake ports) are starting to rust, lightly, just by sitting out - exposed to the air in my garage.  I removed the intake about a month ago as part of some engine work I'm in the middle of.  I've removed a whole slew of other engine parts, too.

So my question is - until I'm ready to put the parts back - should I "preserve" the non-painted surfaces of these engine parts?  And if so, what should I use?  WD40?  Something else?

General Tech / Dangerous gaskets? (asbestos)
« on: June 15, 2009, 09:30:02 AM »
Before I can put new intake gaskets on, I have to remove the old gasket
remnants that have stuck to the valve head exhaust ports. Looking at
them, they seem to be made of some fibrous material - almost like cheap
fiberboard. These gaskets date from 1979, so I was this

I've been wearing one of those thick, blue masks to be on the safe side - but
I'd like to know what I'm dealing with, here. When I was cleaning the old
gaskets off the intake, I wet them down and then scraped them off with
a putty knife - VERY time consuming. A metal wheel
on a drill would have been faster - but I was scared to pulverize
potential asbestos fibers and spread them around into the air, you know?

if it's NOT dangerous.....well, the mask isn't the most comfortable
thing to, it keeps fogging up my safety glasses. If I
didn't have to wear it - that'd be nice.

Anyone have any insight into this material?  Is is just cork/paper or did they put more nefarious ingredients in them?

Tech- - Engine / Any red-flags?
« on: June 15, 2009, 07:46:58 AM »
Here are some pics of my engine's cam and pushrods.  I have no idea what I'm looking at in terms of trouble-shooting so I was wondering if you guys notice anything that would raise any "red flags?"

Like, for instance, there seems to be rust on the sprocket that turns the distributor shaft.  And is it normal for the cam lifters to be streaked in brown, like that?  The engine has about 95K mi on it.

Image order is from engine front, to center, to rear.

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