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Topics - attkrlufy

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General Tech / Ticking speedo cable
« on: April 16, 2011, 07:28:34 AM »
It's driving me nuts:  *tick *tick *tick

And at 60mph: *tickatickatickatickatickaticka

Clearly it's the cable rubbing against the outer sleeve.  The speedo needle jumps back and forth a lot because of it, too.  So what's the fix for this?  After taking out the speedo do I just quirt WD40 or something similar down the shaft and let it work it's way through the cable housing.....or does it mean there's a kink somewhere and the only thing to do is replace it?

Tech- -BODY / POR 15
« on: April 14, 2011, 05:20:01 PM »
Today I used POR15 for the first time ever on some suspension parts I'm restoring and I learned something....


Why have I always thought it was black?

So.....I obviously can't have a 2-tone suspension (or CAN I???).    Do I paint over the POR15 with black paint?  Is that how this works?  What have you guys done?

Tech- - STEERING WHEELS AND SUSPENSION / F & R anti-sway bushing kits?
« on: April 08, 2011, 10:13:53 AM »
Anyone recommend a good set of bushings for the front and rear anti-sway bars on a '79 New Yorker?  By "good" I mean super durable.

I have both bars and the mount for the rear sway bar.....but I don't have any of the bushing kits.  There seem to be a million of them out there and people's online opinions don't help much:

"I like Moog.  They're great!"
"$#$@ Moog.  Nothing but junk!"

So, uh, what do you guys like?

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Last parts question: Wires and plugs?
« on: March 22, 2011, 10:48:19 AM »
Down to the final two items (I hope).  I'm swapping out the lean burn for orange box electronic ignition soon.  Since "I'm already there" noodling with wires and such, I figured this is a good time to upgrade the other engine electrics, so I bought an MSD Blaster 2 ignition coil.  My question is about spark plugs and wires:

What type should I get and how much do different "builds" affect performance?

I wanted the MSD to give me more volts for the spark - so I'd like some wires/plugs that will capitalize upon this.  I don't mind spending a couple extra bucks on something that will work - frankly, I'd rather spend $100 on something that gives a noticeable change, than $30 on something that doesn't seem to do a lick of difference, you know?  But I also realize there's a point of "diminishing returns" when it comes to cost.


Jegs and Summit seem to have a good selection.  It looks like all the high-end wires have these characteristics and cost around $70-$100:
* Silicon jacket, 8mm+ spiral core
* RFI shielded / suppressed
* 50 ohms/ft resistance

So is it worth it?  Like, if I go 7mm vs 8mm does it matter?  Bigger?  8.5mm+?  Does a spiral core matter?
I imagine the lower the impedance of the wire the more efficient it is at transmitting the spark - is THAT what I should focus on?
I'm also guessing the RFI shielding affects my car's other electrics (like the radio), not the engine, itself.  But since I plan on putting in a "nice" stereo - that's probably a key attribute, right?  Or does it even matter?

Spark plugs:

I'm looking for efficiency/longevity, here.  What will work best wih my new electronic ignition system?  To me, spark plugs are spark plugs....but looking around online there are people who SWEAR it makes a difference once you upgrade the coil.


General Mopar Discussions / Check it out! Wanda's online!
« on: March 21, 2011, 05:14:42 PM »
So, yeah, this weekend I put my new digital video camera to use and filmed a bit of Wanda with the (vague) intent to throw something up on the inter-webs.  I figured it was high-time an R-body New Yorker gets some YouTube time, you know? sure to stay to the end.  There's a bit of a surprise if you're patient.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / two ballast resistors?
« on: March 16, 2011, 10:53:20 PM »
I'm almost done collecting the parts I'll need to scrap my leanburn and put on an electric ignition system.  I'll write my other questions in this forum later, but right now I have a question about the ballast resistor.

My car already has one - a 2-prong.  The "orange box" Mopar conversion kit I bought also came with a 2 prong resistor.  Everyone says I need a 4 prong ballast resistor for the electric ignition.  But because space is at a premium on the firewall, and I don't want to drill holes if I don't have to, I was wondering if I could ditch both 2 prong resistors and get this instead:

Wouldn't this work just as well, too?

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / So what's this plug do?
« on: February 16, 2011, 04:55:28 PM »
Today I was cleaning up the engine bay in my '79 New Yorker (360 v8) and I found an unplugged plug.  I have no idea what it's for and I can't find it in my Service Manual.  It's got a part # on it's side (3513624) but I checked my '79 Parts Catalog and that # isn't listed.  It's buried in with the wires that run through the conduit right next to the cruise control assembly - perhaps it's part of that?  My CC isn't currently working.....maybe it's related to that?

Just thought I'd try a longshot and see if any of you guys here know what this plugs into and what it's for.  You can see it located between the CC servo and the diagnostic port for the lean burn computer:

MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / Project list / resolutions for 2011
« on: January 31, 2011, 10:29:02 AM »
Sitting here in frozen upstate NY has me dreaming of the warmer weather SURE to come two months from now.  I've been day-dreaming of what I want to accomplish this year once the thaw comes and I was wondering if anyone else has the same yearnings.

This summer I resolve to:

* Remove the Lean Burn computer, hardware, and wires and add the Chrysler electronic ignition (orange box). *bonus* if I can add dual snorkel air cleaner, too.
* Re-arc / shim rear springs to get 1"-2" lift in the rear
* Add rear anti-sway bar
* Add thicker front anti-sway bar
* Finish restoring / add factory tranny cooler
* Polish and seal / wax aluminum rims
* Reposition wipers properly & fix wiper speed selector arm
* Fix nuisance electric issues: intermmittant driver side tail-light socket, add new driver side turning lamp and socket, fix driver side opera lamp wiring.
* Address various (unending) trim/paint/appearance issues

If I can get all that done by late September I'll be a happy man.  I've already got most of the parts I need and should be able to do it on my own.  Except the 1st item.  I'll need help running/adding the new wires as I've never done that before.  Yeah, Roger.  I'm looking at YOU. 

Tech- - Engine / LA vs B/RB air cleaner size. Same or different?
« on: January 30, 2011, 03:55:48 PM »
I'm thinking of buying a dual-snorkel air cleaner for my car once I "adios" the leanburn since there'll be a gaping hole in its side once the computer-box is gone.  I saw this dual snorkel air cleaner on eBay and I'm wondering if it'll fit my engine.  I have a '79 360 w/ the 4v Thermoquad carb:

It LOOKS like it's the right model.  The air intake on mine is oval and so are the intakes on this one.  Mine has a little "dimple" in the front of the housing for the heater hose to rest in and so does this.  I'm assuming since it's a dual snorkel that this went on a 4 bbl carb (thermoquad) engine, which is what mine has.  But the lister says this is from a 440 and mine's a 360.

So my question is - will this air cleaner fit on top of my engine or is it too big?  Did Chrysler use different diameter air cleaners for their B/RB engines than they did on the 360 LA engine?

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Why cutoff negative line and not positve?
« on: January 13, 2011, 07:20:40 AM »
It's a slow month and I've always wondered:

Why are battery cutoff switches installed on the negative line and not the positive?  If you're just trying to disrupt the circuit (for storage or safety or whatever) then why does it matter which terminal is cut-off?  I've never seen a switch installed on the positive battery terminal.  Is there a reason?

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / 70s Cassette Radio repair? Anyone do it?
« on: November 08, 2010, 11:13:49 AM »
I've got a dying '70s-vintage AM/FM cassette radio that needs some work done to it because the potentiometers are super-scratchy and the cassette keeps ejecting randomly.  It's made the radio unlistenable.  I'm too busy right now to rewire the car to simply put in a later 80's-90's Mopar radio (though I'd like to eventually) - this model has a common ground for the speakers.

Do you guys know of anyone who will repair this late 70s cassette radio model?  I tried this guy:  but he only does AM/FM and/or 8-track, not cassette.

Tech- - STEERING WHEELS AND SUSPENSION / Need some lift in the rear
« on: October 24, 2010, 05:45:08 AM »
What the title says. *wink*

For whatever reason the rear leaf springs in Wanda are arced such that the poop-deck of my car is about 1 1/2-2" lower than it should be.  I cannot afford to re-arc them, nor can I afford new ones.  So....

How does one get lift in the rear, cheaply and easily?

Shimming sounds complicated.  I was thinking the easiest way might be to get longer spring hangers.  Aren't there adjustable-length hangers for rear springs?  Or, at least, fixed-length hangers that provide some lift?

Tech- -BODY / Question about care of old exterior paint
« on: October 24, 2010, 05:37:46 AM »
I fear I'm damaging the paint on my car every time I dry it off.  I've got a '79 Mopar vintage paint job (enameled paint, not clearcoat) and, over all, it's in good shape considering its age.  However, in some spots, it's a bit thin from age, wear, etc. so I'm worried about its longevity as I do NOT have the resources to do a proper repaint anytime soon.

When I'm done washing the car, I use a regular, synthetic (feels very rubbery when wet) chamois / shammy / whatever they're called - to wipe away the water so as to not get spots.

But each time the chamois is full and I wring it out and watch the water as it comes out of the shammy, I notice the water is the hue of the paint.  I'm, in essence, rubbing the paint off the car when I dry it.

So how am I supposed to dry my car and not thin the paint at the same time?  Are there "frictionless" shammys/chamois?

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Radio wires - what's going on, here?
« on: September 09, 2010, 04:37:50 PM »
I'm looking to replace my mouse-pee damaged 8-track on my 1979 vintage Chrysler and this NOS replacement looks tempting:

However, the description says "The wiring connectors are a little different than original."

So here's a picture of the back of the unit:

I get the harness with the two power lines.  But what's up with the two other harnesses?  There should only be one harness with 5 wires coming out of it (4 speaker wires and 1 ground) not 2 harnesses.

So...uh...if I buy this unit how do I hook it up?  There only seem to be two lines (blue and black) coming out of the harness with the white tip.  Are those grounds?  I can count four lines coming out of the blue-tipped harness - maybe those are the F&R speakers.

Any thoughts?  Anyone have experience with this type of unit?

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Broke ATC stuff. Now I gotta fix it.
« on: September 06, 2010, 09:51:29 AM »
Normally I'm smart enough not to mess with in-dash parts because I have big hands and they exist in small spaces.  Rarely do those two characteristics create a situation that doesn't end in tears and swearing.

This is no different.

In trying to clean out an old mouse nest behind the radio/climate control section of my car, I broke a whole bunch of stuff on my ATC control module.  I'm looking for some help on the following parts and/or parts numbers.  The car is a 1979 New Yorker:

A/C Blower motor Switch (original) Part #3846303  (updated) Part #4261306:
The switch I killed was a 4-position switch.  For some reason, the updated part number comes in both 3-and-4 position switches.  I just want to make sure that switches with 3 prongs on the back are 3 speed and switches w/ 4 prongs = 4 speed.

Temp control cable Part #3847432 (?):
Not sure if the part number is correct.  I can't seem to find a definitive number for this in my parts catalog.  What happened was I broke the red flag that snaps into the back of the ATC unit.  Do I have to get an entire new cable or can I just get a new "flag?":

ATC Vacuum line help.

I ripped the vacuum lines out of the back of the ATC control box harness and I just want to make sure I put them back in the right order.  I'm using the wiring harness on the other end of the lines as a template.  There's  6 black lines and 1 blue line.  If I got it right, it LOOKS like the blue vac line goes in the top-left slot.  Anyone know for sure?  I can't find a diagram

You'll also notice the vacuum lines don't stay in the harness anymore.  I was thinking of just crazy-gluing them back in.  I just gotta make sure I don't plug up any of the vacuum lines.  Anyone have tips on this?

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