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Messages - Steve

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46
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Serious Brake Circuit Problem
« on: May 02, 2009, 01:47:09 PM »
*****   UPDATE   *****

Had to move the Fury a bit today and noticed that the ammeter needle now moves up to the first line towards the Charge side when the engine revs are increased (1,500 RPM approx). This is a new condition.

Could this be because we cleaned the bulkhead connections?



47
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Serious Brake Circuit Problem
« on: May 02, 2009, 09:52:13 AM »
Copy that, Commando. And thanks for the reply!!! I figured it was a short of some kind. I just wasn't sure if this wasn't a symptom of a familiar mopar-related issue.

In trying to figure this out by reading other posts, I came across CBarge's "MAd Wiring" article about bypassing the Ammeter and bulkhead connection. Do you or anyone else have thoughts on this.

As soon as time allows, I'll try your suggestion, Commando. Thanks again!


48
Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Serious Brake Circuit Problem
« on: May 02, 2009, 05:06:36 AM »

Hi everyone,

Last night My friend Jon and I were working on my 1968 Sport Fury. The good news is that she now has 4 new shock absorbers. The bad news is that there is something wrong in the brake electrical circuit. We took the car around the block and every time I touched the brake pedal the headlights would flick off for a second and the dash lights would dim. The problem got worse as I headed home. It got to the point where if I put the turn signal on and hit the brakes, I'd lose the headlights completely and the blinker wouldn't even blink!!!!

Got it back to the barn and started to investigate. When I would step on the brake pedal, the dash lights would dim significantly and the ammeter needle drops from straight up to halfway to the first line on the Discharge side. I could actually hear a brief change in the motor when the pedal is pressed.

Jon disconnected all the bulkhead connectors, cleaned all the contacts as best he could and reconnected everything. Went to start the engine, it turned over a couple times and then lost everything electrical. Total absence of voltage in the car. ARRGH!

Got out the FSM (without a doubt the best money I've spent for this car) and started tracing out the electrical circuit. Working backwards from the battery, we checked the fusible link and that was OK. From there it goes to the Ammeter thru the bulkhead connector. We removed the appropriate connector and noticed that the contact for the fusible link/ammeter looked a little charred. Not a good sign.

Jon got under the dash to see what was going on there. He doesn't know what he did, but after moving some unidentified wires all of a sudden we had voltage again. We started the car and to no surprise, we had the same problems as before, except that the headlights no longer flicker when the pedal is applied. Jon started to measure voltages under the hood. The Battery remains rock steady at about 14.3V regardless of the brake pedal. However the feed side of the ballast resistor (to the battery), drops from 12.3V to about 8V when the pedal is pressed!

IMPORTANT NOTE: As I mentioned in an old post from last year, we had to modify the ignition circuit because after converting to electronic ignition, the engine wanted to die when the brake pedal was pressed. We provide +VBAT to the ECM directly from the battery using a switched relay. That solved the engine symptom, but obviously did not address the cause of the problem:Low Voltage.

Anyone have any ideas? Can the ammeter become a high-current draw itself? I'm out of ideas and I'm confident that when this problem is solved, I can return the ignition circuit to it's normal circuitry. I think the problem is going to found behind the dashboard. I'm not looking forward to removing the instrument panel, but if I have to.....

As always, any help or suggestion is sincerely appreciated.

Thank you,
Uncle Hulka
Uncle Hulka2009-05-02 10:08:22

49
Tech- - Engine / What's the best way to pull an engine?
« on: May 02, 2009, 05:04:55 AM »
I worked on the Fury last night and discovered/rediscovered a pretty serious electrical problem I can't figure out. I'm going to start a new thread in the Electrical section since it's not really engine related. I'll title it "Serious Brake Circuit Problem"

Hope to see you guys there.......



50
Tech- - Engine / What's the best way to pull an engine?
« on: April 26, 2009, 10:22:07 AM »
Good advice! I wish I had the moolah for new rear springs, but not right now.

I thought I spun the rears after installing the SG diff, but I don't trust my memory anymore. Regardless, I just this second returned home from NAPA with 4 new wheel cylinders and two rear brake self adjuster rebuild kits (one kit per wheel). This should hopefully take care of my (latest) brake issues.

Any thoughts on what's going on with my trans? Don't know if it makes a difference, but it is a 1971 TF, not a '68.

Oh, on my brief cruise yesterday I learned two other things:

1) The original AM radio works perfectly!
2) I forgot how much I hate AM radio!



51
Tech- - Engine / What's the best way to pull an engine?
« on: April 26, 2009, 07:02:02 AM »
**********UPDATE**********

I took her out for a little cruise yesterday. It was fun, but surprise surprise, there are some issues that need to be addressed.

1) Transmission shifts are long and not very positive. Although I must say she does accelerate hard.

2) When I'm applying my brakes while driving at low speed, the engine will sometimes just stop for a split second and sometimes stall.. It doesn't do thins if I'm moving in neutral, so it's like the trans or torque converter isn't releasing properly (related to shift issue?)

3) When I start the car cold, when the engine just starts to run, the car lurches forward a bit. I don't think it does it when its warmed up but I could be wrong. Kind of odd. (Could all these transmission issues be related?).

4) When I got back home, I could smell the brakes. I then saw little wisps of smoke coming from the passenger-side rear wheel. I installed new brake shoes all around and installed new brake springs. Also cleaned everything up in the self adjuster. What causes brake drag like this? Do I need new wheel cylinders?

BTW, I ordered a complete set of shocks for the car (gas up front, air in the rear). Those will arrive Tuesday. If I need new wheel cylinders, now would be a good time to do them and get it over with so I can CRUISE!!!

If anyone has any thoughts on what is going on, I would appreciate any help!

Thank you so much,
Uncle Hulka



52
Tech- - Engine / What's the best way to pull an engine?
« on: April 25, 2009, 03:47:14 PM »
It has a 7-blade fan and I think that's correct (maybe 440-only?). Here's a picture from the 1968 Plymouth Fury brochure that supports this belief.





53
Tech- - Engine / What's the best way to pull an engine?
« on: April 19, 2009, 06:45:24 AM »
You forget? After all we've been through, you forget? Oh Polaraco, where did we go wrong?

All kidding aside it's a 68 Sport Fury Conv. without A/C. I'm pretty sure it has more than 4 blades. 5 blades seems right, off the top of my head. I was just thinking a shroud would help keep it cooler.



54
Tech- - Engine / What's the best way to pull an engine?
« on: April 18, 2009, 05:13:57 PM »
*****UPDATE*****

So far no more steering box leak....WOO HOO!!! Thanks for all the info and support.

I also noticed something interesting. There is no fan shroud installed.

Should there be one and if so, anyone know where can I find one?


55
Tech- - Engine / What's the best way to pull an engine?
« on: April 12, 2009, 02:28:16 PM »


Sorry for the delay in replying, but other obligations held my attention.

Thanks for clarifying, Stitch. I will get on that ASAP and will, as always, report success or failure.

Wow. I've had this annoying leak since I've had the car. If this cures it, I think I'll miss wiping up the garage floor and keeping a little bag of speedy-dry in the car to clean up after a public display of autoincontinence (I think I just made up a new word for cars that leak/drip. Woo Hoo!)

Uncle Hulka2009-04-12 19:29:48

56
Tech- - Engine / What's the best way to pull an engine?
« on: April 10, 2009, 07:33:57 AM »
Thanks, Stitcherbob! But just to be clear, you know I'm talking about the power steering box, right?


57
Tech- - Engine / What's the best way to pull an engine?
« on: April 09, 2009, 04:03:37 PM »
(sigh)



Last Saturday, I removed the control valve body to replace the two O-rings. they were very hard and FLAT. I thought they were supposed to be flat, but my friend thought they were regular O-rings that had just taken a set.

I went to the local hardware store and sized them the best I could.

I installed them, started the engine and instead of a annoying leak.....I now had a HEMORRHAGE!!!

Anyone have an idea what I did wrong? What are the RIGHT O-rings and where can I get them?



58
Tech- - Engine / What's the best way to pull an engine?
« on: March 22, 2009, 04:49:56 PM »
$25 American Dollars? If he wasn't a druggie, I'd call you a thief. Well, maybe not a thief. Perhaps just one lucky SOB!:-)


59
Tech- - Engine / What's the best way to pull an engine?
« on: March 22, 2009, 03:41:02 PM »
Great Advice Stitch. Also thanks for the thoughts re 3.91 gears. It was just a brief indulgent thought. I had a 1970 Chevelle SS454 LS6/M22 back when they were within reach of mortal folks (early 80's). It had 4.56 gears and was OH-MY-GOD scary quick. Fun wore off after about 2 months and I sold it.

On a different topic, while cleaning my basement today, I found photocopies of 3 musclecars I owned back then (did I mention I'm obsessive?). Anyway, there was one for my first 1970 Chevelle SS454 LS6/M22 (this one had 3.73 gears), one for a 1969 Chevelle SS396 L35/M21 and one for my second 1968 Road Runner! Here are the details as written on the Dealer Invoice:

Make: Plymouth
Year: 1968
Model: road Runner
Body Style: 2-dr. htp.
Serial No.: RM23-H8A-219XXX
Optional Equipment And Accessories:
Light Pkg.
Sure Grip Differential
Head Restraints L-R
Sill Mouldings
Radio w/Rear Speaker
Shoulder Belts
Foam Rubber Seat Front
Arm Rests with Ash Tray
Sport Steering Wheel
Tachometer
Undercoating (factory)
Road Wheels
3 Spd. Wipers
Accent Stripe
Hi Perf. Axle
4 Speed Transmission
Red Streak Tires

PRICE OF CAR: 3690.40
DOCUMENTARY FEE: 10.00
SALES TAX: 66.10
DELIVERED PRICE: 3766.50
TOTAL CASH PRICE: 3766.50
CASH ON DELIVERY: 1936.10
USED CAR: 1830.40
1966 Plymouth Satellite 2-dr.htp. RP23-F61-218XXX
TOTAL: 3766.50

The original owner lived at the bottom of my street. The car had sat in his front yard behind the hedges for a LONG time. After selling my first Road Runner I started to miss it. I figured what did I have to lose. I knocked on his door and flat out asked him if he was interested in selling his Road Runner. He said that just that morning he was considering putting it up for sale. WOW! Freaky!!

He told me he had put a Racer Brown cam in it a long time a go and it was pretty lumpy. He told me if I wanted the car, I could have it for $1,200.

Just sharing that story made me a little sad. I miss all the cars I've had.

Hope I didn't bore you.



60
Tech- - Engine / What's the best way to pull an engine?
« on: March 22, 2009, 04:01:03 AM »

Quote from: stitcherbob
Those o rings can be sized and bought....just make sure you get that valve centered just like it was or your steering will want to "self steer". A spritz of spray paint over the valve could help locate it back to where it was.




Great tip, Stitch, but I thought the O rings were located between the hose fitting and the adjustable block on the steering box. That's what it looked like in exploded views. Am I mistaken?


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