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Messages - Steve

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Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / Uncle Hulka asks "Will This Fit?"
« on: September 13, 2009, 01:59:49 PM »
I don't understand. What is this and what does this change?

Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / Uncle Hulka asks "Will This Fit?"
« on: September 04, 2009, 07:24:48 AM »

I know I sound paranoid, but I'm not. I just had it stuck in my head that transmissions, like the engines we love, suffered serious performance losses after 1970. My faith is restored.

I'm going to rebuild the transmission. I'll get a good rebuild kit + the TransGo TF-2 shift kit. Should be a good learning experience.

As for my current trans. problem, I'm getting a pair of 300PSI gauges and I'm going to see what my trans. pressures are. Maybe I have some fluid by-pass in a critical area.

Of course, I'll keep you guys posted on progress and status along the way.

Just remember, if it wasn't for the support I found on this site, there's no way in Hell I'd be even thinking of trying this.


Uncle Hulka2009-09-05 08:55:01

Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / Uncle Hulka asks "Will This Fit?"
« on: September 03, 2009, 02:37:13 PM »
OK, so I shouldn't be too bummed that it's not a 1970 transmission?

Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / Uncle Hulka asks "Will This Fit?"
« on: September 02, 2009, 02:39:01 PM »
***** UPDATE *****

After work I found the numbers on the left side of the trans. They are as follows:

3681054  4305  9238
(I couldn't read the plant code at the begining)

So it looks like it was built on May 11th 1973 and was used in B and C Bodies with 400-2bbl engines.

Were these strong transmissions? It's not a 1970, but were '73's as good, better or worse than a 1970 (or 1968 for that matter).

A little bummed out.

Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / Uncle Hulka asks "Will This Fit?"
« on: September 01, 2009, 04:19:19 PM »
Ah, Polaraco! Good to hear from you again, my friend. As always, you offer sage advice. I had planned to clean it up and I appreciate your specific suggestions.

I think I really lucked out finding this. I had called around to the local junkyard looking for a 727 for a big block. He laughed and said I'll have a better chance finding a hemi in a junkyard. I found this about 25 miles from home and got it for $75 with the torque converter. I thought that was a pretty good price.

Thanks again, Polaraco! Great to hear from you!

Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / Uncle Hulka asks "Will This Fit?"
« on: September 01, 2009, 03:53:14 PM »
Hey Guys!!!!

As some of you will recall (those of you who followed the Saga of Uncle Hulka's 68 440 Sport Fury), I had an issue with my transmission (1971 vintage 727). Under anything but mild acceleration, the tranny would slip like CRAZY at the 1-2 and 2-3 shift points. I have to take my foot off the pedal to get into the next gear.

AAARRRRGGGGHHHHHHHHH! I don't know what the cause is. I checked the throttle/kickdown linkage and confirmed it's properly adjusted. I'd love suggestions, but that's not the reason for this post.

Anyway, I just scored a 1970 727 TF and torque converter out of a running/driving New Yorker with a 440. The 440 was pulled decades ago and the trans has been sitting (with fluid) in his garge under a blanket ever since.

My question is this: Am I correct in believing that this will bolt right in (after inspection and a TransGo shift Kit installation) and work with my existing driveshaft and torque converter?

Good to be back and thanks for all the help.!

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / all the dash electronics...1968 furyIII
« on: June 14, 2009, 07:31:02 AM »

Polaraco, you know me too well. How could I stay away from this one?

So, someone's having wiring issues with a 1968 Fury? It's like Deja Vu all over again. As Michael Corleone said in The Godfather III, "Just when I think I'm out, they pull me back in." Just kidding. I'm more than happy to offer any guidance I can. Without these guys, I'd still be scratchin' my head!

Welcome to the forum! Here you will find the most helpful group of Mopar enthusiasts on the internet. You'll be so glad you found this site.

1) First things first: Get yourself a Factory Service Manual for 1968. The information contained within is invaluable ESPECIALLY if your wiring has been 'modified'.

2) Has the car been sitting for very long? Did the previous owner have this same problem?

3) The bulkhead connector is a great place to start, but unless you find a phenomenal amount of corrosion, I don't think that will be the sole cause of your problems. I say this because you state that it is a "good solid running car". Regardless a good, thorough cleaning will not hurt. It won't be easy. Get some really small files and clean each contact the best you can.

While you're in there, look for evidence of overheated wires. Another problem common to bulkhead connectors and, more specifically, to the Ammeter (not voltmeter) wire. All the current for the entire vehicle runs though that one wire. A definite weak link. Be sure to check out CBarge's excellent "Bypassing the ammeter gauge 101" thread here in the electrical section. Consider it 'Must Read'.

4) I don't have my book at hand, but I seem to remember a 5-wire splice in the wiring that commons up a lot of the dash items, but I don't believe it was all-encompassing. Off the top of my head I can't think of any one commonality that would cause your entire dash board to be dead and still allow the car to run.

5) Do your blue dashboard lights still work? Can you dim them with the dimmer control? If your interior lights work, does this same control allow you to tun them on/off? Does your high beam indicator dash light work? Before starting the engine, when you turn the the key to the On position does the Oil light come on?

6) See Number 1!

Do some more investigation and record exactly what does and doesn't work. Let us know what you find.

Uncle Hulka

Uncle Hulka2009-06-15 07:07:28

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Serious Brake Circuit Problem
« on: June 11, 2009, 10:39:51 AM »
Hmmnnnnnn....... There does seem to be quite a bit of play in the shifter (column shift). I'll have to look into this, although it seem too consistent to be caused by this....but I've been wrong before!

Thanks, Polaraco!


Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Serious Brake Circuit Problem
« on: June 11, 2009, 07:50:32 AM »
The filter looked pretty good and the fluid had a normal color and smell. I didn't really drive it that much before so I can't accurately compare before and after. I performed the fluid/filter change to 'reset the clock' for future scheduled maintenance. There was an issue with the shift points occurring later than were supposed to happen. That turned out to be related to the mangled throttle linkage. Jon and I straightened the bent linkage rods and followed the FSM adjustment procedure.

Just thinking out loud here, but I remember wondering how that rod got bent so out of shape in the first place. But soon the repair and adjustment procedure required my attention and I hadn't thought about it since. Now I am wondering if the rod was deliberately in an effort to address the 'runaway' shift behavior.......

Anyone have a thought about this? BTW, the vertical rod between the engine and trans was the one that had been bent.


Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Serious Brake Circuit Problem
« on: June 10, 2009, 03:58:46 PM »
Hey Polaraco!

Yes, Jon and I did a trans service a couple months ago. We drained the fluid from the trans and torque converter, installed a new filter and adjusted the bands using a process involving tightening the bands to the point where I could not turn the drive shaft by hand. This method was purported to be more accurate, but this time we'll do it as outlined in the FSM. We also adjusted the throttle linkage.

Did I screw something up?

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Serious Brake Circuit Problem
« on: June 10, 2009, 03:43:12 PM »
Just a quick update. I've had a chance to drive the SF for a few miles over the last few weeks and I've got to share my experiences with those of you who have helped me so much.

This car is just a pleasure to drive! I rides so smoothly over even the rough country roads in my town. I can't tell you what a great feeling it is to drive down the road on a beautiful, sunny day with the top down, classic oldies playing over the stock AM/FM radio through a new speaker. All this combined with the sound of the 440HP mill purring quietly in the background patiently waiting for me to exercise my right foot. Sadly, until I am done setting up the mechanical and vacuum advance characteristics, I am not able to realize her full potential, but soon, my friends, very soon........

No issues to report regarding the electrical system. Everything seems to be working perfectly. The charging system is doing its thing perfectly. The ignition system works great. After replacing the 160° thermostat with the correct 180° thermostat, the cooling system is working as designed for the first time since I bought the car. The brakes work fine (for 4-wheel manual drum brakes) and the car doesn't pull to one side or the other.

The transmission is still causing me grief. Under any acceleration, I experience runaway with both the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. Once it's in gear it feels better and pulls hard, but I have to let off the accelerator pedal at the shift points or else the trans slips badly, causing the engine to rev up. Until I figure it out, I'll just have to exercise some self-discipline and keep my foot out of it.

I've said it before, but I want to express my deepest appreciation to all of those who have given me such fantastic advice, guidance and support in my efforts to get this car to a state of reliability. I am not blind to the fact that without you guys, my Sport Fury would not be in the condition it is right now.

On that note, I want to close by saying "Thank You" to my friend Jon. He has been an incredible friend throughout this process. He's forgotten more than I'll ever know about cars and he is not only willing to share his knowledge and experience, but also his valuable time. He has been right there, turning wrenches and diving in and solving whatever issue we were facing. I can not say enough about the friendship he has demonstrated in helping me make this car drivable. I will never be able to repay him for his generosity, but he will never have to look for a garage in which to work on his cars. My tools and equipment are his to use at will.

My thanks to you all, gang. You rock!

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Serious Brake Circuit Problem
« on: May 20, 2009, 02:40:05 PM »
*****   UPDATE  *****

The speaker from Rocket Restorations arrived today! WOW, talk about fast!!! I ordered it Monday and it's here 2-days later.......from the other side of the country!

The speaker sounds so much better than my crappy old original. Of course the old speaker was torn 7 ways from Tuesday.

Ran out of time tonight, but all I have to do is finish buttoning up the dash and I should be ready for a bit of cruising, thanks in large part to you guys!

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Serious Brake Circuit Problem
« on: May 18, 2009, 02:44:34 PM »

I don't know, Polaraco. But Tom told me they install these speakers in their customers cars as well as his on '67 Fury III. I also see that Galen recommends their services on his site. I was impressed with the restoration pictures on their web page.
Uncle Hulka2009-05-18 20:32:41

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Serious Brake Circuit Problem
« on: May 18, 2009, 02:05:41 PM »
*****  UPDATE   *****

I just received email confirmation (with tracking number) that my speaker had been shipped! they also had a link to their website (I thought they were just ebay'ers). Well color me surprised because they are actually a restoration business specializing in MOPARS!!!

Here is their link:

I guess it's safe to assume they know if this speaker will fit and work with my stock radio. The speaker is 4 and 8 ohm and was a whole lot less expensive than some other 4 x 10 I found.

Will, of course, keep the group posted.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Serious Brake Circuit Problem
« on: May 18, 2009, 01:04:36 PM »

The low voltage condition throughout the car was essentially the cause. The brakes were the straw that broke the camels back. right now the dash lights just flicker a teensy bit when the brakes lights come on. They don't dim, just the single flicker. I assume the voltage regulator then kicks in and all is right with the world.

*****   UPDATE   *****


At lunch, Jon and I hit the barn intending to install the AM/FM radio. While removing a connector from the (original) sash speaker, the contact tab came right off the speaker. We removed the speaker  and after seeing the condition of the paper, I didn't feel so bad.

Now I'm off to order a new 4 x 10 speaker. I found a guy on ebay selling an exact replacement for my speaker. Here is the listing:|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

Hope posting a link doesn't violate the rules here. I'll let everyone know how it works. I actually called and spoke with a man named Tom who was very helpful. Even though I called 3:30 PM their time (Olympia, WA), he said he would make sure it got shipped today so I could get it before the weekend. Nice guy.

So another aged component gets replaced. Oh well, the old speaker sounded like crap before.
Uncle Hulka2009-05-18 18:49:27

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