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Messages - Paul

Pages: 1 [2]
16
Tech- - Engine / Valve cover design
« on: June 29, 2008, 07:35:21 AM »
I have a 1963 Chrysler New Yorker, and it has separate brackets that bolt to the engine under the valve cover bolts to hold the spark plug wires.  I have also seen some 1963 Chrysler New Yorker's with the 413 engine that have the spark plug wire holders welded to the valve covers.  Which is correct for 1963 Chrysler New Yorker with the 413 engine?  In its short life, it has had a few parts replaced with parts from other years.  I just don't know what is correct any longer.... thanks Junk...

17
General Tech- - BRAKES / "over-boost" from new booster?
« on: June 21, 2008, 05:48:33 PM »
Sometimes a thought comes to me at the strangest time.  Today, I was looking at some cars at a car show, and I thought back about this thread.  That is when it came to me that you might just have the proportioning valve installed backward.  Usually they are stamped with a "R" at the port that the rear line goes to.  If you put it on backward, that will definitely give you the "over boost" condition that you are referring to.  Check this before you do any thing else.  Sometimes, it is the simplest things that get reversed, and reek havoc with your mind and car.
 
I also looked up the part numbers for the disk brake option for a 1967, which I believe your car is, based on your signature line.  The Wagner part number for 1967 is 64874.  The 1071 is a 75818.  I have no idea how they differ, but that might be one of the problems also.  The caliper numbers are also different.  I would suggest that you use the master cylinder that matches the year of the caliper use, so the system is properly balanced.  Calipers and master cylinders are designed to work in tandem, and you shouldn't mix different year parts in the system. 
 
Junk2008-06-21 22:58:48

18
General Tech- - BRAKES / "over-boost" from new booster?
« on: June 21, 2008, 05:37:02 AM »
Quote from: thrashingcows
Junk.....Good info Thanks!!
 
My prop. valve that I used from the 71 300 is a little rough around the edges and the reset/release button you make reference too is not functioning.  I think I will install a new one just to be safe.
 
The brake fluid I'm using is new...a few months at best and stored in a dry garage and sealed tight....actually had to buy a new jug last week since I have gone through a gallon of fluid so far on the wagon....
 
 
Why so much fluid?  I have seen where master cylinders will leak fluid into the brake booster, and the engine vacuum will suck it in and burn it.  Makes for a very interesting upper cylinder lubricant, and a mystery where the brake fluid was going...
If you give me the master cylinder application, I can check some of the old parts books to see what the part number is for the old application, and if it has an  updated part number, that will be a good clue that the old one is different.   One size fits all is very popular today.... Junk...

19
General Tech- - BRAKES / "over-boost" from new booster?
« on: June 20, 2008, 06:36:25 PM »
  I don't want to get too deep into this, since I don't know all the facts, but I will attempt to give you some of my past experience from a long time ago, when disk brakes were first being introduced.  I can tell you that some of the early dual brake master cylinders had a restrictor built into them, and the later ones were built without the restrictors on some cars.  I also know that if you must match the master cylinder properly to the proportioning valve.  If your car calls for a master cylinder with the restrictor, and it doesn't have it, then too much fluid pressure will be allowed to go to the calipers.   Unfortunately, today, when you buy rebuilt parts, you have no idea exactly what you are getting.   The casting numbers might be right for your car, but the actual innards of the unit might have been produced for another application that is different than your application.  It is for  this exact reason that I always prefer to rebuild what I have, then  to purchase a rebuild that I know nothing about.  When I am faced with not having a choice but to take  the unknown rebuilt part, I never turn in my old core.  I see this as my salvation if the replacement part turns out not to be any good.
If you adjust the booster push rod, and it is causing the brakes to get hot, then you are adjusting it in the wrong direction. 
My final thought is how old was the container of brake fluid that you used.  If it were sitting on the shelf and had been previously opened, it could have absorbed moisture.  When your brakes get hot, and the moisture in the fluid starts to boil as a result, it can also give  you the brake drag that you are experiencing.  Brake problems are very difficult to diagnosis, unless you can actually lay your hands on the car and physically check each component for correct application, installation, etc.  Junk........
PS......... I don't know if this applies to the proportioning valve that you are using, but some of them required that you "release" them prior to bleeding the brakes.  Some had a button on top that you either pulled up, or pushed down to release.  Some of them also had a sliding internal switch that would turn on a brake warning light on the dash if one side of the system failed.  This also needs to be re centered for the valve to work properly. 

20
General Tech- - BRAKES / How do you test a brake booster???
« on: June 20, 2008, 06:15:59 PM »
In the first picture, you can see the middle of the brake cylinder, where the water lay at the bottom of the brake line inlet, causing rust and deep pitting. Surprisingly, the rest of the cylinder had no rust or pitting, and was a candidate for rebuilding. Where the pitting was located, is outside of the area that the brake cylinder cups travel, so it will cause no harm. In the rest of the pictures, you can see the "grime" that covered the brake cylinder internal parts. The spring with its cup expanders are in the middle of the cylinder, and a rubber cup goes at each end. Then the metal pistons go into each end of the cylinder, with the flat surface contacting the face of the rubber cups. Then the end boots (not shown) are installed on the cylinder ends, completing the wheel cylinder assembly.





21
General Tech- - BRAKES / How do you test a brake booster???
« on: June 17, 2008, 06:42:08 PM »
I am the new guy on the block, and this is my first technical post, I believe.  I am presently working on replacing brake lines on a 1963 Chrysler New Yorker, and I have lots of brake experience, having done this for a living for many years.  Replacement of the brake lines is worth doing even if they look good.  An engine that stops, just leaves you stranded on the side of the road.  If the brake lines fail, then the consequences can be a bad crash that can lead to injury or fatality.  Replace the brake line, and all the rubber hoses.  It is cheap insurance.  Also, have all wheel cylinders rebuilt or replaced, along with the master cylinder.  Then if you are still using a single master cylinder with all drum brakes, have the system filled with DOT-5 Silicone Brake Fluid.  It is on the expensive side, but you will never have to worry about rust, or other problems associated with DOT-3 or DOT-4 glycol based fluids.  Unless you are racing this car, you will not have a problem with the Silicone Based Brake Fluid.  The glycol based fluids have an affinity to absorb water, and for that reason, they must be changed every 2 years to avoid problems.
Junk2008-06-17 23:48:24

22
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / Tranny cooler lines
« on: June 10, 2008, 06:59:38 AM »
Inline Tube said that they were for a 1963 Chrysler C body, just as I had ordered.  There information indicated that it was two lines without an inline filter.  I said that I need the 3 line kit since mine has the inline filter, so I have to assume that they sent one that was for a 1960 - 1962, since that is what they list for 3 line kits.  They claim that Chrysler used more than one supplier for this part, and that the supplier might have made it differently.  I know that  this isn't correct, since all suppliers work with the same engineering drawings, and have to produce the item to that standard.  The auto manufacturers don't allow suppliers to deviate from the drawings.   I haven't gotten to putting the fittings on the radiator end, but it appears that they will line up.  I work very slowly when it is hot, so this is a drawn out project. 

23
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / Substitute for Type A trans fluid
« on: June 10, 2008, 03:27:01 AM »
I need to refill my transmission after draining and changing lines and filter.  Since Type A is no longer available, what is the recommended replacement?   Will it be compatible with what is still left in the transmission?  Thanks

24
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / Tranny cooler lines
« on: June 10, 2008, 03:17:17 AM »
I just installed replacement transmission cooler lines that I bought from Inline Tube.  It wasn't that difficult to route the pressure line since my car is up on a lift.  I am not pleased with the fit, since it isn't an exact replacement, but the bends were close enough that I was able to get it hooked to the transmission after doing some pushing and bending.  I have yet to get it connected to the radiator, since it is about an inch too short.  I will need to straighten some of the curve out of the front of the line to make up this 1".  I compared it to the one that I removed, and at the front end, it was exact.  At the back end, it was almost totally different.  I didn't see the "shortage" issue until I had the line installed and at that point, I wasn't taking it out.  I will send them my original for a pattern if they will send me back a replacement.  Inline Tube uses a steel line that has a copper coating on the inside.  www.inlinetube.com
I see no problem with using rubber for lines, except for the issue of the rubber tube possibly rubbing and getting a  hole in it.   


25
General Tech / Horn not blowing problem '63 New Yorker
« on: April 07, 2008, 05:17:40 PM »
The slip ring that you mention, is it the one that contacts the bottom of the steering wheel?  I have checked this one, and it is OK.  It is the column shaft that has lost its ground.  I have searched the Internet sites, and no one else has had this problem that hasn't been able to find a broke wire to resolve it.  My problem is that I can't find any broken wires, nor can I find out how Chrysler grounded the steering shaft. 

26
General Tech / Horn not blowing problem '63 New Yorker
« on: April 07, 2008, 03:36:10 PM »
I can't get the horn to work on my 1963 Chrysler New Yorker.  I have checked the horn relay, horns, wiring etc., and all is well, with one exception.  The steering shaft has lost its ground, and since the horn relay seeks a ground, and there is none, the horn will not blow.  I have found a place in the mast jacket that I can slip a wire in and touch the steering shaft with a piece of grounded copper wire, and the horn will blow properly.  I have checked the 1963 Chrysler Service Manual, and it doesn't give an solution for this problem.  I have also looked at the mast jacket from one end to the other looking for a broken ground strap.  There is no indication that there ever was a ground strap to the steering column.  I pulled the steering wheel, and checked the contacts at that end, and there are no issues at the top of the column.  Anyone have any suggestions as what to do next?  I already have about 20 hours into this one project trying everything that I know, only to come up empty handed.  HELP............. Junk.....

27
General Tech / Key Question
« on: April 05, 2008, 05:58:28 PM »
Quote from: CBarge
What year and model,Junk?
 
This is a 1963 Chrysler New Yorker.  I did find a "Forward Look" key under the seat today, so I will assume that it is an original.  I still would like to get a set of keys that are punched by the numbers so I know that they will be an exact fit.  Having the lock cylinders professionally cleaned and keyed might be a good idea, since none of the door locks work very smoothly.  That will be added to my list of things that need to be done.  thanks Junk..

28
General Tech / Key Question
« on: April 04, 2008, 12:18:55 PM »
I only have one key for my car, and it isn't an original.  How does the ignition lock cylinder remove from the ignition switch?  Is there a key number on the ignition lock cylinder?  What about the door lock cylinders?  thanks Junk

29
General Mopar Discussions / Service Cars: Mopars
« on: April 01, 2008, 05:03:06 PM »
I left Jersey a little more than 35 years ago, but I would love to still be there if it were possible.  I left after having seen the Newark riots, and thinking that I didn't ever want to be anywhere near that type of an event again.  I now live on 15 acres in Northeast CT in a very small  town.  My neighbors are the deer and other wildlife.  The great thing is that I can have as many cars as I want, and no neighbors to complain.  I will be going to another car meet that is being held in Southern NJ this summer.  I will have the Chrysler there.  Junk. 

30
General Mopar Discussions / Service Cars: Mopars
« on: March 31, 2008, 06:14:14 PM »
As soon as we get some good weather, I will begin to tackle all the little problems of owning an old car.  Being that it is about 35 years since I last worked on a Chrysler, I will also be looking for some help and guidance as to how best to do certain mechanical jobs that are Chrysler specific, such as engine valve seals.   I will also be posting a number of times in the wanted forum, since I know that there are some minor items that will need to be replaced.  Thanks Junk......
Junk2008-03-31 23:20:38

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