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Topics - Gary Buckley

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Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Dodge Electronic ignition issues
« on: April 30, 2012, 03:30:27 PM »
I was told by a Dodge mechanic that My 1941 Chrysler with a 318 engine with electronic ignition will start better if I install what I believe he called a shunt wire to the coil.It is suppose to give me 12 volts to the coil when starting.he said to purchase a starter relay and use it.I have it but for the life of me I can't see how it can be used for anything other than a starter relay.I have read an article tonight stating that dodge had some type of ballast bypass built into their key switch in the 70's.I am using my original key and starter button on the 41 .Can anyone explain to me how I might send 12 volts to the coil for startup only Thanks

Tech- - Engine / Still Have Engine Starting Issues
« on: April 18, 2012, 04:51:48 AM »
Hi again everyone.I have a 318 engine (1985 era)installed in my 41 chrysler coupe and I am having starting issues still.I replaced my key switch and my control module ,which was new with another new one  and I still have the same issue happening.Car decides not to start.I have fire on both sides of the ballast.If I touch the control module wire to power while turning engine over it will kick.If I do that enough times it will start and once running it will startup every time instantly.What happens when I was turning the key off and on to get the same effect as touching the power wire on my module to power is that the car will kick when the key hits the off position and when I turn the key back on the engine will actually fire without pushing the starter button.Oh by the way I have left the original starter button in the car so the key and starter are seperate.If the rotor is pointing at a cylinder with open valves it will fire up through the carb.If not it will actually turn the engine over a slight amount .Any ideas as to why it will fire when applying power to the module and also when turning key off..The distrubutor and module are both new.I have checked my ground and all connections.When it works ,it works excellent.Any chance that the pickup in the distributor would cause this?Also I am using a coil that I used with my points distrubtor.Is there any difference in coils for electronic ignition?Thanks again for any input.

Tech- - Engine / Engine starting issues
« on: March 28, 2012, 08:52:23 AM »
Hi Guys I am back with a really weird one this time.I just happened to be playing with my new gas pedal in the old 41 the other day and when I went to start the car it kicked and then no go.You can turn it over till the cows come home.I checked for fire at the ballast resister and I do indeed have power on both contacts.Oh by the way for those that don't know my car , I have installed a 318 engine in it with electronic ignition.I have used the original key switch and the original starter button.I have been running the engine for about 2 weeks now and no issues.So getting back to the no start.I tested for fire while turning the engine over and I still maintain fire on both sides of the ballast resister.I even went as far as running a jumper wire to the resister and still no go.I changed out my coil and no go.Finally I sat in the car and while turning the engine over I switched the key off and on real fast and when I am in the off position for a spit second the engine fires even though I lose my starter because the key has to be on for it to work as was when I had the flat head in the car last summer.I experimented with this a few times and if I was fast enough to get it back in the on position it would start and keep running.I then can shut the car off 1000 times and it will fire everytime instantly.So then I decided to create the same scenario that got me in this pickle at first.I pumped the gas about 2 to 3times and then proceeded to start the car.As soon as I hit the starter button the engine kicked but wouldnt run.I played with the key again for a while and got the same results It sometimes takes a few tries to make this work.When it did work It would fire as soon as the key was moved towards the off position and like I said before if I am fast enough and turn it back on it will run and once running It will start excellent again any amount of times .I can create this same scenario over and over and it is always the same .I tried holding the pedal down thinking it was fuel and I tried pumping and no way .You have to play with the key even though I have fire at the ballast resister.Any help would be greatly appreciated.

MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / 4 Month Project Finished
« on: March 22, 2012, 07:45:42 AM »
I am about to try and load some pics on here of my rebuild this winter

General Tech- - BRAKES / Poor Brake Pedal
« on: March 12, 2012, 07:05:10 PM »
Hi .Can anyone give me a heads up as to what might be wrong that I cannot get a good pedal on my brakes.I have a 1941 Chrysler royal and I purchased a dual mastercyclinder set up from Pirate jacks.I did everything they explained with drum brakes but It still takes about 4 pumps for a good pedal.I have bled the master cyclinder before installing and have bled the system 3 times.I have residual valves front and back I have factory front setup and a 9" ford setup in the rear.The unit I purchased came with the pedal and is designed for under the floor.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Heater and Wiper motor sizes
« on: March 11, 2012, 08:12:22 AM »
Can anyone tell me what size I might have for electrical motors on my 1941 Chrysler royal.I have converted the car to 12 volt and need to know what size reducer I need for each.Ebay sells some made in the USA 1 ohm and some 1.5 ohms  The later are said to be for 4 amps and 25 watts.Thanks Gary

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / My Gas Gauge Is On The Bum
« on: August 10, 2011, 02:25:01 PM »
Can anyone help me out with my gas gauge  issues Please.This past weekend while on a cruise My gas gauge in my 1941 chrysler royal started acting up.First time I looked at it, it was fine ,next time it was past the full.Wasnt long when it came back to normal and then sometime later down below empty it went.This basically took place all day and now it is staying below the empty.I checked at the tank for a ground and it seems fine  and the other connection at the tank looks fine also .I really dont know what to check for other that the ground.Any help would be appreciated.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Sound Break Up IN stereo
« on: July 28, 2011, 04:19:27 PM »
Hi everyone . I am new to this great site and this is my first attempt at trouble shooting . My problem is with my 1941 Chrysler Royal with a 6 volt positive ground system.I installed a cd player in the car ,independent of all electrical.I mounted it in a wooden box and ran all wires to a 12 volt battery in the trunk.When the engine is off it works excellent ,but when I start the car the sound in the speakers cuts in and out badly.I am not picking up engine static either.Doesnt matter if I use the radio or cd player.  The antenae is not touching the body either.I use an MP3 player in the car and have no issues.

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