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Topics - Bob Schaefer

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General Tech- - BRAKES / Rear Brakes Rebuild
« on: September 06, 2013, 06:08:08 AM »

So this is sort of a continuation that started as a question about my brake light staying on, and turned out to be about the brake adjustment, etc... For that, I will probably try and bleed the brakes again, because though I adjusted them what seemed to be enough, and the pedal improved. it still had more travel than I'd hoped, and the light is still on.

That said, when I removed the drums to adjust, there is a ton of rust in there. The springs and other parts are old and corroded, except for the shoes and wheel cylinders, which had been replaced.

The thing is, I am confused when I look at Rock Auto, because they have sets for 11x2". 11x2 3/4", and 11x3", and most say "except wagon".

What I've read leads me to believe the wagon would have the 11x3" brakes in the rear. The HD brakes came without self adjusters, and mine has them, just so rusty they won't work.

So, any advice as to which hardware kit and self adjuster kit I should get from Rock Auto? I can't see where the width of the shoes would matter so much as to which kits to get, but they do seem to have different ones.

Thank you... Bob

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Brake Indicator Light
« on: August 09, 2013, 05:06:31 PM »
That said, Mopar Night at the local Cruise was fun.

General BS and Laughs / Out for a Drive...
« on: July 31, 2013, 05:46:19 PM »

MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / '69 Monaco Wagon - Back to it...
« on: July 26, 2013, 08:03:27 AM »
Greetings from the Chicago area, once again. It's been awhile since I've posted, but now that I have my wagon back, I thought I'd say hello.
Since I had to sell her, I have realigned my priorities on this project.
Currently, the focus will be on driveability/reliability, and down the road, I will consider structural integrity and durability, then appearance.

So, the friend who bought the car did a bunch of work to make it driveable, and it is. The main concern, on getting it back, is cooling. I knew when I first had it, that it tended to run hot, and my buddy confirmed this. This is primarily evident on really hot days, or if the AC is running. I don't typically run the AC, so that's not a huge concern. There are no coolant leaks, so far.

As an initial step, he ran a couple of wide hoses from the snorkels on the air cleaner, out to either side of the radiator support, in order to provide more outside air. This helps some, but I am interested in a more comprehensive solution. My main concerns are the size of the radiator, and the condition of the coolant path within the engine. The main radiator hoses and thermostat have been replaced, and I think my buddy said the stat is a 160 degree one. This is why I am more concerned about what else is going on, if it has that stat in it, and it's still too hot. I haven't driven it much myself, since I only got it back this week. I will drive it around some, and see what I think.

My first plan is to get some cooling system flush, and do that a couple of times. A question here is, do I worry about dislodging something, and making things worse? After this, if I am still running hot, I may consider an aluminum radiator with greater capacity. I would really love to find a big 4-core OEM radiator like I had in my Polara wagon, which came with the towing package, feature A35, I believe. I don't figure it will be easy to find, if it's even possible, but we'll see. Either way, if I end up removing the radiator, I would definitely replace the water pump, even though it isn't leaking, since I don't know if/when it was last replaced.

Anyway, thank you again for all the support when I had to give up my wagon, and I am glad to be back amongst my fellow C-Body enthusiasts.


General BS and Laughs / I've Been Overhauled...sort of
« on: July 24, 2013, 07:22:45 PM »

Tech- - Engine / Oil Pan Gasket
« on: June 22, 2012, 04:02:52 AM »
So, it appears I will need to replace my oil pan gasket. I've done a lot of things on the '69 Polara and Monaco, but I've not done this before. Do I need to raise the engine up, in order to get the oil pan out? I don't need to pull the engine out, right? I would really like to replace the pan, itself, because this one is a bit dented, but I don't have a bunch of cash right now.
I also have a trans fluid leak, which I don't know if it's the trans cooler lines, or something else. The trans oil pan is brand new, so I know that's not leaking. The lines are rusty, and need replacing anyway, but if it's a seal of some sort, that will have to wait until I can afford to take it to a shop. I will have to get start it up, and let it run awhile, and see if I can see where it's leaking from. Transmissions are beyond me.
Thank you... Bob

So, last year, I drove my '69 Monaco wagon 1 time, around the block, got very discouraged, and put it away... Not a wise move, I know.
I had let it sit all the previous fall and winter, and started working on it in the spring. I did a bunch of work on it, and got it running nicely, or so I though... The day I drove it, I let it run for half an hour, just idling, to see if there were any leaks, since I had done valve covers, fuel pump, put on a different carb, etc... No leaks. Awesome.
Then I backed it out, and drove around the block. A clacking noise from the rear, probably passenger side... I presume, and hope, just brake dust in the drum, but I didn't check at the time. The bad part was, I had both oil and trans fluild leaking from the bottom side.
So, I figure possibly the oil pan gasket, but not sure about the trans leak. I am hoping that because the trans cooler lines are rusty, maybe that's where my leak is coming from.
Anyway, I will see about getting back to it here soon, and hopefully not have to spend a mint to get it going again, but as I said in the title... We'll see what we'll see.

Tech- - Engine / I hope I didn't break it...
« on: July 14, 2011, 08:11:59 AM »
So, here I was going to take the wife on a test drive around the block in the wagon. So I had already warmed it up, but I had shut it off to tighten the fan belt a bit. We got in, and I started it up, and gave it just a little rev, and it floored itself... My wife was scared not quite to death.. I jumped out, popped the hood, and unstuck the throttle, and it calmed down.
Here's the thing... In the process, it obliterated the fan belt, and one of the alternator belts popped off. I also noticed it was running kinda rough before I shut it off.
I know I need to replace the belts. Probably should have done that anyway. I just hope that the high RPM's didn't do any other damage. I will change the oil, too, and see if anything comes out.
Anyway, so much for my test drive.

MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress / Wagon Project...
« on: July 09, 2011, 05:46:27 PM »


Tech- - FUEL / Fuel Line - Thanks, Leaburn!!!
« on: July 09, 2011, 05:01:42 PM »

schaefman2011-07-09 22:03:29

Tech- - Engine / New Valve Covers - PCV Valve?
« on: July 08, 2011, 05:24:56 AM »

So, I am going to go ahead and order a Mopar Performance twist on breather cap, but I wonder if there is an advantage one way or the other in having or not having a PCV valve. I just don't recall why it was that we didn't use it. I presume that the need for a breather is to avoid too much pressure building up in the top end.... does that mean I need a breather on each side?

Tech- - FUEL / Another Fuel Pump Question...
« on: July 06, 2011, 11:29:34 AM »


General BS and Laughs / Here's a new one...
« on: June 01, 2011, 05:28:48 AM »
So, I got a call from the guy from whom I bought my '69 Monaco Wagon. He had the car listed with the Illinois Film Institute as being available for use in film productions, which he did as a potential way to potentially finance some restoration efforts.
The reason he called me was, he received an email from a production company that is looking for a vintage station wagon for a low-budget film they are going to shoot, starting in August.
Now, of course, the "low-budget" sounds like a red flag to me, but here's my question: Does anyone have a clue as to what is reasonable for rental of a car by a film company? I don't, so before I talk to them, I'd like to know if anyone here has had any experience in this regard. The guy who sold me the car said he looked into the company, and the person who sent him the email, and it seems legit. I started to do it too, and it does seem on the level. I just don't know if it's a good idea, and what would be reasonable to agree to regarding the various details involved.
So, any advice is appreciated.

Tech- - STEERING WHEELS AND SUSPENSION / Suspension Compatibility
« on: April 25, 2011, 04:11:54 AM »

I'd like to know if the frame and suspension parts for a '66 and/or '71 Fury are all interchangeable with a '69 Monaco.
I don't know what, if anything, I'll need to replace, but I'd at least like to know what I will look for.
I've looked at, and I see that their Lower Control Arms are for '65-'73 C's, which leads me to believe that the Uppers would match, too, but I don't want to assume. I am planning to try to remove the uppers and lowers, and get them sandblasted, as suggested here, but I have come across a couple of opportunities to get some that are done already, so if they'd fit...
I also may need to look into the front subframe, which appears to be very dented and rusty. I'd like to try and have someone help me weld in some new metal, but if I can get something in decent shape...
Also, the crossmember where the Torsion Bars anchor, and the Transmission Crossmember too. If they are the same through '65-'73, that would be good to know.
Thanks all.

Tech- - Engine / Valve Cover Gaskets
« on: January 21, 2011, 01:27:50 PM »
I tried searching, but this might be too dumb of a question for someone else to have asked...
It's been awhile, and I've never used these Fel-Pro cork/rubber, metal core valve cover gaskets. I bought them when I ordered my new Mopar Performance black ribbed valve covers from Summit Racing.
Anyway, I haven't had a car like this for a long time, and I'm not sure if these gaskets require sealant. I used to use regular valve gaskets, and coat them with gasket sealant. These seem to be much better, so I thought it better to ask than to assume, since the folks here have been so helpful.

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