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Topics - attkrlufy

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General BS and Laughs / I'm back! ("Wait...who are you again?")
« on: May 31, 2013, 05:01:54 AM »
Just wanted to give a shot-out to you kind folks here at Moparfins.  Life has finally settled after the move -  only took a year-and-a-half, but who's counting?  Got my company to survive the first year of its existence and am making a decent enough income to pay the bills (so no more government cheese and surplus peanut butter! ).

More importantly, Wanda is again an insured and registered vehicle ("classic" car status in PA, too), and snoozing comfortably in a rental garage. 

So I hope this means I'll be on here in the near future, bugging you all with questions about this-and-that.  I've got a lot planned, hopefully I can get to it all soon.

See you all around, again. 

Tech- - FUEL / Filter Placement
« on: March 05, 2012, 06:28:33 AM »
I know this is a rookie question, but I've noticed that the fuel filter is not always in the same place on the tank-pump-carb circuit.  I always thought the filter protected the guts of the fuel pump - which is why most of the ones I've seen are located before the fuel reaches the pump.  That's certainly the case on my car.  However, I've seen lots of engines - including a ton of older slant sixes - where the filter is AFTER the pump, and just in front of the carb. there a proper place for the fuel filter?  Because if I could change its location on my engine, I would.  It's current location makes it a real PITA to change.

General Tech / Work truck debate: Shorti Ram vs. Astro/Safari
« on: January 14, 2012, 09:40:45 AM »
Hey guys.  Long time, no see.   I'd like to draw upon your wisdom for a little help in
picking up a work van.  I'm starting a housing-rehab business in
center-city Philadelphia - so parking space is at a premium.  Since I
don't have a garage, I'm going to have to store all my equipment in my
truck, which I'll park in the city and drive to the rehab sites.

I can't afford a new van, so I'm looking at the used market.  When
looking at work-vans that fit the bill, I can't decide if I want a third
 gen shorti Ram ('94-'03) or a second gen GMC Safari/Astro van
('95-'05).  They're both within about 1 1/2" of each other in terms of
length (~190"), width (~79"), and wheelbase (~110"), and both had long
production runs so parts should be cheap and plentiful for each.

The Ram feels significantly bigger on the inside - it's about 5" higher, 2" wider, and has a slightly longer cargo bay (~4").  I don't know how useful that's really
going to be to me, day-in-day-out.  4'x8' sheets of ply will fit in both
 -  so do I really need the extra height, or will it and the 2" of extra
 width keep me from banging into everything and going crazy?  Because I
feel like the Safari will be a bit easier to drive in center city than
the Ram and will get better mileage.  But I feel like the Ram is a more
proven design.  I trust the durability of the Mopar 3.9L V6 / 5.2L V8
and 3-speed more than the GMC 4.3 V6 and 4spd.  Plus, I feel like the
structure and suspension of the Ram is more "durable" than the GMC and
will handle abuse better.

Anyone have any experience with the two?  Any red flags with either of them for this sort of work?


General Tech / Does this sticker trick really work?
« on: August 04, 2011, 12:38:37 PM »
So I've finished fabricating my custom dual snorkel air cleaner and it's painted, hooked up, and everything's working.    The only thing left to do now is put this sticker:  on the pie-tin.

Obviously I only get one shot at this, so I want to do it right - with no air bubbles and perfectly centered.  I heard there's a trick that involves soapy water?  Anyone know anything about it?  I found stuff online about using that trick on decals, but not stickers for an air cleaner.

Tech- - Engine / Distributor vacuum advance: how much pressure?
« on: July 13, 2011, 09:36:00 AM »
I posted this on Allpar but I didn't really get much help and the one answer I got makes no sense to me - even though I really don't know what I'm doing - so I thought I'd try you guys:

I recently scrapped the lean-burn in my car for an orange box
electric ignition.  A mechanic friend came over to help me set the timing
 ('79 360 & 4v).  We pulled the vac line from the carb to the
distributor and with the engine running tested how much vacuum the
distributor needed before advancing the timing.  Turns out it won't
advance the timing until there's about 15-17 in/hg pressure.  My friend then
 said it should start to advance at 5 in/hg and so I need to replace the
vacuum advance diaphragm on my distributor because it's waiting too long to advance the timing.  The only reason I want a 2nd opinion is because the
distributor is brand new from the elec ignition conversion kit, so I'm a bit wary of replacing brand new parts.

So here's the response I got:
The purpose of the vacuum advance is to ONLY advance the distributor at
light throttle. At light throttle, the engine can use the extra advance
for better fuel efficiency. At full throttle, the vacuum drops and the
mechanical advance built into the distributor is the only one used or
you will experience "pinging" or in other words "detonation" which leads
 to mechanical failure. It sounds like yours is working correctly.
There are 2 things I don't understand about that reply.  1) I thought when you have an elec ignition, you don't have weights in the distributor.  I thought weights were only with points.  2) if he says vac advance is for "light throttle" - and my vac advance "is working perfectly" when it kicks in at 15 in/hg - how can that be considered "light throttle"?  To get that much vacuum from my thermoquad, I'm practically at WOT.  If my mechanic friend is saying the vac advance needs to kick in at 5 in/hg, then that sounds more like "light throttle" than 15 in/hg does.

Anyone know who's right?

Tech- - FUEL / I need new fuel pump recommendations (funny story)
« on: July 11, 2011, 04:25:22 AM »

Hey, all.  I Just got back from Carlisle and now I need some help.  File this story under: "This is why I can't have nice things."

So Wanda and I entered the display for judging for the first time ever, and turns out she won 2nd place in her category!  Which was awesome because there were quite a few REALLY nice cars.  So on Sunday, after going to the winner's corral for the morning, I line up in the parade and head down to the photo station in front of the stands.  Other than the fact that it's hot and taking forever, everything seems to be going well and I'm enjoying the buzz of being lumped in with a stunning array of beautiful cars.  And then....

....Wanda dies in formation.  The engine RPMSs dropped really low and then she just cut out and wouldn't start back up.  Even better still, it happened at the bottle-neck RIGHT before getting to the grandstands.  So in front of everyone, the Carlisle staff had to move a few cars that were on the side and help me push her out of the way so the parade could continue, since there was no room for anyone to get around me.


I think it's a fuel delivery problem and I'm pretty sure it's the fuel pump.  With the car dead on the side of the road I was pumping the throttle, trying to start her up, but no gas was coming out of the jets.  I even removed the cap to make sure it wasn't vapor lock.  The maintenance staff had some starting fluid and she fired up and ran okay - but I didn't want to risk stalling out again even closer to the photo station, or worse - not being able to get home that night - so I just left the event.

The thing is, it was A NEW PUMP that I installed only 3K ago!!!!  It was either an AC Delco or a Bosch pump.  But the point is, I can't believe it failed so early.  And, for God's sake, why did it have to fail RIGHT THERE, RIGHT THEN?   

So who makes a good fuel pump?  Seriously, after that debacle, I don't care what it costs - I want to know a really reputable and RELIABLE pump manufacturer's name so I don't have to worry about if the pump I buy "was built on a Monday."

attkrlufy2011-07-11 09:26:10

UPHOLSERY HOW TOO's / How do you clean trunk carpeting/lining?
« on: June 24, 2011, 05:48:42 PM »
I've just pulled the entire trunk carpeting and lining from a junked '79 New Yorker.  I'm super excited because my car had no trunk trim whatsoever and I can't wait to "finish" that part of my car.  But before I can put it in, all the pieces really need a good, thorough cleaning.

How the heck am I supposed to do this?  And by "how" I mean what set-up should I use?  The side pieces are kinda small, but the trunk liner is big.  Do I lay down a tarp and get on my hands and knees and scrub it with a wire brush and some solvent?  Actually, what should I even use?  Soap and water?  Carpet cleaner?  Can I get the fabric wet or will that ruin it?

Any tips and tricks would be appreciated.

General Tech / A good rattle-can paint?
« on: June 22, 2011, 09:54:43 AM »
I've got to paint my newly blasted dual snorkel air cleaner the proper mopar orange and I was wondering what brands you guys like and where you get them?  I'm looking for something that gives that nice, glossy, enamel-like covering but is also safe for the high-heat under the hood.

I haven't had much luck with rattle-can paint in the past.....I was hoping you had a go-to brand that's easy to find.

So....minor setback....

The company I asked to make four new swaybar links for me so I could switch to universal bushings apparently can't do quality work.  2 of the 4 links (one in the front, one in the back) have snapped where the link meets the bushing "perch".  They lasted about a month.

I don't want to use them again since I said from the get-go that this was for an HD application as the car is heavy.  Since they're the only game in town, I have to go back - what should I tell them to do?  Is there a proven way to really beef-up the contact point where the link meets the perch?  Is there, like, a collar, or something, that will increase the diameter of that joint to make the weld stronger?

Wow....this is a REALLY long post.  I guess I have a tendency to ramble.  I woldn't read this if you're busy and/or pressed for time. 

I've been watching a lot of Top Gear lately, and every time I see those
three Limey knuckleheads enter some form of rally in a hopelessly old,
decrepit car I think to myself, "I ought to try that."  Not an off-road
rally, mind you, but a road rally.  Either a time-trial rally, or a
classic rally.

So I began thinking, "What car would be the best candidate for me to
build and drive for a classic/time-trial rally?"  It'd have to be RWD,
small, light (under 3K pounds),
with a good wheelbase:total length ratio (no large F or R overhangs),
good F/R weight distribution (no monster v8s up front), and a fastback. 
 Plus, it would have to be CHEAP to buy with easily found parts that are
 also CHEAP.

That scrubs everything from GM.  Vegas are too hard to find and Monzas
have too much overhang.  All Camaros/Firebirds are too $$.  62-65 Chevy IIs are too expensive, as are 61-63
 F-85s/Tempests/Specials, and none of them are fastbacks - plus parts for GM Y-bodies are $$.  Corvars are
scary, even the 65-up models.

Likewise, anything from Europe or Japan would be just too expensive and
rare w/ parts
impossible to find....which is a shame because 240/260Zs, 70s
Celica/Supras, Conquests, Arrows, and Sapporo/Challengers all would make
 a great contenders otherwise.

Two Fords have slight possibilities.  64-66 Mustang FB are out, as
they're too $$.   67-68 Cougars are a bit big and have no FB model.  The
 60-65 Falcon/Comets look good on paper but they don't come in
fastbacks, either.  66-69 Falcons/Comets are too big.  69-77
Maverick/Comet FB coupes are the same length and weight as a 1st gen
Barracuda, but have a 3" shorter wheelbase, so why bother? 

I'm thinking the best bets would be the 70-80 Pinto/Bobcat runabout, or
the 79-93 Mustang/Capri fastback.  They'd be great with either the the
air-cooled or intercooled 140 I4 turbo, but that's a really hard-to-find
 engine and I think it'd ruin the "cost" and "easy parts" categories.  You
could stuff a hi-po 289 or 302 v8 under the hood, but I don't know how
$$ they are (or their parts), so that might not work.  Forget the Boss
302 - way too rare and $$.

Mopars look really good on paper - there are three I can think of and
they're all A bodies.  The B,
C, D, E, F, J, M, and R bodies are just too heavy and/or have too much
overhang for rallying.  So either a 1964-1966
Barracuda, a 1967-1969 Barracuda, or a 1970-1976 Duster/Demon/Dart
Sport.  The engine would have to be either a built 273 or 340
V8.  I'm inclined to say the 273, as you can squeeze a ton of HP out of
it, it likes to rev just as much as the 340, and it's lighter.  I
thought about a 225 slant 6 Hyperpak to save weight - but because it's canted, I'd be
worried about L/R cornering balance.

But then.......

AMC seems to have won.....maybe.  The first AMC offerings I could think
of didn't fit the bill: 65-69 Rambler (no fastback), and the 65-67
Marlin (too heavy and rare).  But then I remembered the 70-72 Hornet
fastback-ish 2dr coupe and its cousin the 79-83 Spirit.  Not everyone
knows that a 1979 Spirit (AMX) with a 304 V8 won their class in
the "24 hrs at Nurburgring" race in Germany (the
drivers/crew were called "Team
Highball." It's an AMAZING story), going up against Porches, Alfas,
Fiats, Citroens, Lancias, etc.  As far as engines go, a 360 V8 might
make them too front heavy for what I'm looking for, but a built 304 V8
would work - maybe even a Typhoon 343?  The one thing I don't know about
 AMC is the parts availability.  The Hornet and Spirit are cousins, but I
 don't know how plentiful parts are for them or what will be the total
cost to "rally them up" compared to a Chrysler or Ford car.

However, the numbers for both cars look really good on paper.  There's
even a 4wd version of the Spirit sold as the SX/4 Eagle - but it's rare,
 so I doubt it'd work:

70-72 Hornet 2dr fastback

Wheelbase: 108 in

Length: 180 in

Weight: 2,650 lbs

79-83 2d Spirit FB

Wheelbase: 96 in

Length: 167 in

Weight: 2,500 lbs

Compare that with the Mopars (which are a bit heavy):

64-66 'Cuda:

Wheelbase: 106 in

Length: 188 in

Weight: 2,950 lbs

67-69 'Cuda FB:

Wheelbase: 108 in

Length: 193 in

Weight: 2,910 lbs

70-76 2d Dart FB

Wheelbase: 108 in

Length: 193 in

Weight: 3,100 lbs

......and the two Fords:

70-80 Pinto FB

Wheelbase: 94 in

Length: 163 in

Weight: 2,100 lbs

79-93 Mustang FB

Wheelbase: 100 in

Length: 179 in

Weight: 2,600 lbs

So what do you guys think?  What car would you rally given those criteria?  Or would you pick something else entirely?

Tech- - Engine / Can't set timing after electronic ignition swap
« on: June 04, 2011, 05:53:41 PM »
Pretty much what the title says: after swapping out the leanburn in my car for an orange box ignition module, I can't get the timing of the engine to come down from where it is now - about 35-25 degrees advance.  I'm trying to get it at 14-16 degrees advance.  When I turn the distributor clockwise to retard the timing, the timing doesn't follow suit, the engine runs worse, and - a few times - even backfired through the thermoquad (giving my eyebrows a nice dusting with flame).

Two things I noticed about the work I did today:

*The reluctor in the replacement distributor has a pretty big variance in gap from vane to vane.  I set the recommended 0.008" gap at the closest distance, but other vanes will go as wide as 0.022".  Could that be somehow screwing with the ignition?

*I put a 4-post ballast resistor in place of my 2-post.  It gets REALLY hot with the key in "run".  Like, too hot to touch (it burned me a bit).  Did I wire the electronic ignition improperly?  Could that somehow affect the spark?

I've gotten the car to run - so I know I didn't install the distributor 180 degrees off, or get the plugs in the wrong order - but it can't stay running without really stomping on the gas.  I just can't seem to get the timing back down.

Any ideas?

This is just an FYI post for anyone adding/upgrading the front and rear sway bars + associated bushings in their '73-'81 B & R body cars.  I hope this is able to save someone some time as it was maddening to go through to find all this out.  But, man.....the upgrade was totally worth it.

This concerns an upgrade to the largest front sway bar Mopar offered for these cars - the 29mm bar (1 1/8"), and the associated bushings that work.  If you upgrade to (or have) a smaller bar, either 21mm (13/16") or 24mm (15/16"), you won't have problems finding poly shaft link bushings that fit.  Energy Suspension supplies them.

Sway Bar Shaft Link Bushings:
I could not find anyone that makes a poly bushing for a 29mm (1 1/8") bar that fits the factory Mopar link.  You will have to modify the link to accept a universal bushing - but any machine shop can do this quickly and cheaply (~$50).  More on that below.  Energy Suspension makes a universal poly bushing w/ clamp to fit, #9.5112 (~$28)

Sway Bar Link Isolators:

Energy will give you 4 pair (8 total) + washers in part #9.8105 (~$18)

Arm Strut Shaft Bushings:
You have two options with this. 1) The Moog K7064 (~$9) fits, but it's rubber.  2) You can get a poly bushing for this, but there's some waste involved.  Energy Suspensions offers this bushing for the arm strut shaft in poly AS PART of their B-body front sway bar rebuild kit for a 15/16" bar, #5.5142.  Be warned, there is no split in this bushing, so you either have to split it to get it on the strut, or remove the strut and slide it on.  Plus, you'll have unused parts when you're done.

The rear sway bar for B & R bodies is 19mm (3/4").  If you're going factory, make sure you get the leaf spring hangars along with the links, clamps, and screws.

Sway Bar Shaft Link bushings:
As with the front bar, I could not find anyone that makes poly bushings to fit the factory link.  You have three options: 1) Keep the factory link and modify it to make it servicable to accept rubber repro bushings.  2) Get new factory links and rubber bushings as a set.  3) Modify the factory link to accept universal poly bushings.
If you want to go with 1 or 2, Kanter is your place: #SL18248 for bushings, #1828 for new links.
If you go with 1, you will probably have to go to a machine shop to make the bushing servicable.  They are fusion welded, not bolted, so it will need to be split - ~$35 at a machine shop.
I went with 3, and modified the factory links (exactly like the front links, cost ~$50 and is explained below) to accept Energy Suspension universal poly bushings, #9.5106 (~$20)

Sway Bar Link Isolators:
These isolators are the same as for the front link, so if you purchase the 8 bushing set from Energy (#9.810) you'll have enough for both F&R links.

Sway bar Shaft Bracket Bushings:
The brackets will accept a universal style poly bushing - the same bushings from option 3 above: #9.5106.  You will have to use the clamp provided from Energy as the factory clamp is too small to go around the bushing.

Leaf Spring Pad Set:
When putting in a rear sway bar, you have to swap out the leaf spring hangars for ones that accept sway bar links (standard hangars do not).  So you might as well replace the leaf spring pads with poly ones since you're already there.  Energy Suspension supplies 'em as a set for L&R - #5.6106 (~$55)

Leaf Spring Bushing Set:
If you have factory oval-eye leaf spring bushings, you can also have these replaced L&R in poly from Energy Suspension, #5.2110 (~$70)

How to modify the F & R links to accept universal bushings:
Honestly, it's a bit more $$ up front if you can't do it yourself, but if you plan on keeping your car, this is the way to go as the universal style of bushing is super EASY to get in polyurethane (and this is where the manufacturing industry is headed).
1) Cut off the clamps at the base of the shaft, to keep its length factory correct.
2) Fusion weld a flat piece of appropriate-grade metal on the link shaft where the clamps used to be with the following dimensions:  4 1/2" L x 1 3/8" W  and 1/8" thick.  Have holes drilled in both ends 1 1/2" from center (total 3" apart) to accept the bolts used to clamp the bushing to the new base.
3) That's it.  Super easy.  If you can't do it, a machine shop can in a day.

Hope this helps and I hope this gives a sense of the cost involved.

General Tech / Air cleaner vacuum diaphragm - restore?
« on: May 19, 2011, 01:18:12 AM »
I'm now the proud owner of a mid-'70s dual snorkel air cleaner.  It's a bit rough, so I have some work to do.  But it fits my car exactly, has no holes/modifications for a lean-burn, AND came from the factory without an OSAC valve, so it has the block-off plate, instead. (sweeeet!)  However, my question is with the vacuum heat riser diaphragms:

They're a bit rough, too, but I want to reuse them since they both hold vacuum. (and they're each $70 a pop to replace!)  But I don't know how delicate this mechanism is.

How easy are these to ruin?

I'm thinking they're too small to glass bead.  So I guess I have to sand and/or chemically remove the rust off the tops and bottoms, then paint them Mopar orange - but I don't know what will happen if water, rust dust, paint, etc. gets "in" the diaphragm.

Anyone have tips/tricks/advice?

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Am I shallow? Maybe.....
« on: May 18, 2011, 08:13:12 AM »
....but I want a set of orange wires w/ 8mm+ thick silicone jacket, RFI-shielded, and w/ 180 degree boots for the plugs.  I can't find them, but I can find orange ones like that that are 7mm thick.  I know thicker shielding is better for the life/performance of the wires so I shouldn't compromise on that.....

....but I WANT ORANGE WIRES!!!!  

So maybe I am shallow for going with the "pretty" part instead of better-preforming, boring, black wires.

But before I commit to buying the set I found that comes closest to what I want, (here: ) I was wondering if anyone knew of another set that's closer to what I want in the color I want?

When last I posted I was on the hunt for F & R sway bars assembly bushings.  I was able to find replacement poly bushings for everything except for the center bushing on the rear sway bar link:

It's got a 19mm (3/4") hole and measures approx 1 5/8" L & W.  It's about 1 1/2" thick.  The part that's contained within the bracket is thinner/smaller - about 1 3/8" L & W and 1" thick.

I was hoping to find this in polyurethane, but at this point I'll settle for rubber.  If I can't find it soon, I'm thinking of going to a machine shop and having a new link fabricated that will accept a generic poly bushing and clamp.  Since that'll be really $$$$, I'm hoping to try this one last time with you guys.

Any leads/ideas?

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