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Topics - Steve

Pages: [1] 2
Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / 4-speed conversion Question
« on: April 01, 2011, 07:53:52 AM »
I am just wondering how difficult it would be to find all the parts necessary to convert my '68 Sport Fury Conv. to a 4-speed. It's an original 440HP/727 TF car, so I'm guessing I would need an A833 trans and everything else (pedals, brackets, bellhousing, etc.). I just converted my Chevelle to a 4-speed and I'm thinking how cool it would be if I could do the same to my Sport Fury.

Thanks and if anyone here has done this, please let me know if this dream is too complicated to be realistic (not to mention cost effective).

All The Best,
Uncle Hulka

Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / Torqueflite throttle linkage adjustment question
« on: August 22, 2010, 10:30:39 AM »

With reference to my 68 Sport Fury, I have been thinking about my transmission problem (rpm runaway at 1-2 & 2-3 shifts) and have a question.

I have adjusted the throttle linkage as outlined in the 1968 Factory Service Manual...BUT my transmission was built in 1971. I learned here that in 1971, they introduced a part throttle kickdown feature to the torqueflite. Now I am wondering if this change in transmission design required a different linkage adjustment procedure than the one for the previous design.

As I started to consider this possibility, I am reminded that when I first performed the adjustment procedure outlined in the '68 FSM, the vertical rod connecting the bellcrank to the transmission has been bent pretty substantially. At the time I couldn't understand how that rod got bent, since it is well protected by the engine and firewall.

With these bends, I was unable to follow the adjustment procedure because the rod wasn't long enough. So I straitened the rod the best I could. I was then able to follow the procedure because the rod was now straighter and therefore, longer. Hooray for me.

In retrospect, what a fool I was! At this point in time, I hadn't driven the car yet. I was just going through the the entire car, changing all the fluids and filters and making sure everything was honky dory. The linkage adjustment check was just another step in this process.

In my defense, at this time I didn't know the trans was a '71 vintage, but since I didn't understand the importance of this linkage and how critical in the operation of the transmission, I just went ahead and 'fixed' the linkage without even knowing if it needed fixing at all!!!!!

If anyone here knows the linkage adjustment procedure for a '71 TF, could you please share it with me. I don't know if I might be onto something, or if I'm on a wild goose chase.

Thanks in advance for any and all help!

Uncle Hulka2010-08-22 15:32:23

I guess the title says it all. I am in the process of trying to find a replacement high pressure power steering hose for my '68 Sport Fury. evidently they discontinued the hose used for Hi Perf engines (it's a larger diameter hose than standard).  Polaraco put me in touch with a man who can help me (thanks again Polaraco) but he needs to know what make pump I have (F-M, Saginaw, TRW, etc.).

How can I identify my pump?

Thanks for any help!

Uncle Hulka

PS - So close to cruising season it hurts.

Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / Uncle Hulka asks "Will This Fit?"
« on: September 01, 2009, 03:53:14 PM »
Hey Guys!!!!

As some of you will recall (those of you who followed the Saga of Uncle Hulka's 68 440 Sport Fury), I had an issue with my transmission (1971 vintage 727). Under anything but mild acceleration, the tranny would slip like CRAZY at the 1-2 and 2-3 shift points. I have to take my foot off the pedal to get into the next gear.

AAARRRRGGGGHHHHHHHHH! I don't know what the cause is. I checked the throttle/kickdown linkage and confirmed it's properly adjusted. I'd love suggestions, but that's not the reason for this post.

Anyway, I just scored a 1970 727 TF and torque converter out of a running/driving New Yorker with a 440. The 440 was pulled decades ago and the trans has been sitting (with fluid) in his garge under a blanket ever since.

My question is this: Am I correct in believing that this will bolt right in (after inspection and a TransGo shift Kit installation) and work with my existing driveshaft and torque converter?

Good to be back and thanks for all the help.!

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Serious Brake Circuit Problem
« on: May 02, 2009, 05:06:36 AM »

Hi everyone,

Last night My friend Jon and I were working on my 1968 Sport Fury. The good news is that she now has 4 new shock absorbers. The bad news is that there is something wrong in the brake electrical circuit. We took the car around the block and every time I touched the brake pedal the headlights would flick off for a second and the dash lights would dim. The problem got worse as I headed home. It got to the point where if I put the turn signal on and hit the brakes, I'd lose the headlights completely and the blinker wouldn't even blink!!!!

Got it back to the barn and started to investigate. When I would step on the brake pedal, the dash lights would dim significantly and the ammeter needle drops from straight up to halfway to the first line on the Discharge side. I could actually hear a brief change in the motor when the pedal is pressed.

Jon disconnected all the bulkhead connectors, cleaned all the contacts as best he could and reconnected everything. Went to start the engine, it turned over a couple times and then lost everything electrical. Total absence of voltage in the car. ARRGH!

Got out the FSM (without a doubt the best money I've spent for this car) and started tracing out the electrical circuit. Working backwards from the battery, we checked the fusible link and that was OK. From there it goes to the Ammeter thru the bulkhead connector. We removed the appropriate connector and noticed that the contact for the fusible link/ammeter looked a little charred. Not a good sign.

Jon got under the dash to see what was going on there. He doesn't know what he did, but after moving some unidentified wires all of a sudden we had voltage again. We started the car and to no surprise, we had the same problems as before, except that the headlights no longer flicker when the pedal is applied. Jon started to measure voltages under the hood. The Battery remains rock steady at about 14.3V regardless of the brake pedal. However the feed side of the ballast resistor (to the battery), drops from 12.3V to about 8V when the pedal is pressed!

IMPORTANT NOTE: As I mentioned in an old post from last year, we had to modify the ignition circuit because after converting to electronic ignition, the engine wanted to die when the brake pedal was pressed. We provide +VBAT to the ECM directly from the battery using a switched relay. That solved the engine symptom, but obviously did not address the cause of the problem:Low Voltage.

Anyone have any ideas? Can the ammeter become a high-current draw itself? I'm out of ideas and I'm confident that when this problem is solved, I can return the ignition circuit to it's normal circuitry. I think the problem is going to found behind the dashboard. I'm not looking forward to removing the instrument panel, but if I have to.....

As always, any help or suggestion is sincerely appreciated.

Thank you,
Uncle Hulka
Uncle Hulka2009-05-02 10:08:22

Tech- - Engine / What's the best way to pull an engine?
« on: March 18, 2009, 01:19:44 PM »
Hi Everyone!
I'm considering pulling the 440 out of the '68 Sport Fury. This will allow me to not only degrease and properly paint the engine, but also to detail the engine compartment. My question is this:

What is the best way pull the engine? I've pulled the engine/trans assembly out of GM vehicles by removing the hood and radiator and using a engine hoist with a crank leveler. BUT I now have access to a lift and I'm thinking it might be easier to unbolt the K member (and everything else required) and lift the body up and off the the engine/trans assembly.

What do you guys think?

Uncle Hulka
PS - My NEW gas tank arrived yesterday. Looks awesome and I can't wait to install it. I will have then replaced the entire fuel system from tank to carburetor. One more system I shouldn't have to worry about!

Woo Hoo!

UPHOLSERY HOW TOO's / 68 Fury Dash Pad and Dash Bezel Questions
« on: March 10, 2009, 04:26:26 PM »
The Dash Pad on my 68 Sport Fury is pretty badly split/cracked. What are my options as far as repairs go?

Also, I would like to restore my dash bezel and repair some cracks in the process. Is this something too difficult for the average person?

Any tips will be deeply appreciated.

Thanks Guys!

Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / Changed Differential and now....HELP!
« on: February 28, 2009, 11:04:15 AM »
Once again I return to the well of knowledge. I really hope others can learn from everything I'm going through. I know I am.

Last week I replaced the 2.76 open differential and housing (a non original 1969 742) with a 3.23 Sure Grip in a 742 housing (unknown year, but the ring gear has what looks like a 1966 date code stamped on the same line of information that has the gear ratio. Everything I've read says that there are thrust block differences between pre-'65 and '65-up differentials.

Pre-65 differentials can be installed in post-'65 rear ends without any modifications needed IF the pre-'64 diff in question had sure grip. I make that statement because if true, I should've been able to swap in the new diff without any problems.

I have problems.

With both axles installed, I have WAY too much end play in both axles. Assuming that perhaps the right-side axle adjuster might need to be, er, adjusted, I proceeded to turn the adjuster in so I could achieve zero-end play in both axles, as the FSM says. I know that ultimately I need to achieve end-play of between .015 & .023 (from memory as I write this). The problem is that I've turned the adjuster in until it got hard like I ran out of thread. I still have like around .25 inches of end play!!!!!

What the heck am I doing wrong here? I can't figure out where I screwed up! Does the adjuster have infinite adjustment, or did I truly bottom out?

If anyone can help me please let me know what I did wrong.

Thanks guys,
Uncle Hulka
PS - By the way, the car is running awesome! Just turn the key and she fires right to life! I really love this car, even if it will be the death of me.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / 1968 AM/8-track Question
« on: February 24, 2009, 01:59:27 PM »
I don't know if this is the right forum for this question, but here goes.

I found a 1968 AM(mono)/8-track(stereo) radio for my 1968 Sport Fury (to replace the original AM radio). The radio came with a complete harness (Thank God) with all the original connectors in tact. The problem is that there are like 5 or 6 connectors in various configurations. One connector has something like 6 contacts (?) and obviously plugs into a vehicle harness of some sort. The funny thing is, the entire harness originates with just three wires coming out of the radio. The power wire is Red and is not part of the harness.

Would anyone here have any idea how this harness connects to my car wiring? Mine only had one speaker in the dash (its a convertible and I didn't think a rear speaker was offered with drop tops). This harness is clearly for at least two speakers and maybe three. Who knows?

Also, is there anyone you know of who might have mopar schematics and radio parts for sale? I know I need a new belt for the 8-track.

I know some people think I'm nuts going to all the trouble of putting an AM/8-track radio in my car, when I could put in a modern radio instead. Well, for me, riding in an old car should be like a brief trip in a time machine. I don't want anything to spoil the illusion of cruising down the road like it's 1968 again. I still have alot of my old 8-track tapes of classic 60's rock, and that's all that I'll play in my car.

Thanks for any and all help, guys!

Uncle Hulka

Tech- - Engine / Am I Crazy? How can this be?
« on: February 21, 2009, 05:56:21 AM »
Hi guys and gals!

I was under the '68 Sport Fury last night and was looking for the engine ID numbers on my 440HP. I scraped away the grunge and found the stamping on the bottom side of the pan rail below the starter. To my Shock/Amazement/Horror, the engine displacement was stamped 383!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

How can this be? The 383 is a B block (except for 1958-1960 there was a Chrysler 383 RB). My engine is clearly a RB, as the engine pad is in the RB-only location. I can not see the casting number to identify it, but every single engine number I can see (intake, exhaust, carb, dist., etc.) comes back as the proper number for my 440HP.

I know anything is possible, but has anyone ever heard of something like this?

I'm really freaked out right now and could use some relief;-)

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Low Voltage Issues
« on: August 10, 2008, 06:27:38 AM »
If you're reading this, there's a good chance you're familiar with the trials and tribulations I've experienced in trying to get my 1968 Sport Fury Convertible (440 L-code) to a mechanically reliable condition. I have had an unbelievable amount of help both here and in the real world. Without you guys and my great friends Jon H, Dave S, Jon L and Will G, I would be in a world of trouble.

My thanks to you all.

A refresher on what's been done over the last few months:
  • New Fuel Pump
  • New Starter
  • New CarburetorNew Fuel Filter
  • New Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit (MOPAR Kit)
  • New Spark Plugs
  • New Wires
  • New Solid-State Voltage Regulator
  • New Ballast ResistorNew Coil
  • New Brakes and Hardware all around
  • New Front Flex Lines
  • New Tires
  • New Convertible Top
  • New Axle seals
  • New Pinion Seal
  • New Transmission Filter and Fluid
I'm starting to get to the end of my list of things to be fixed. Thank God, as my finances are pretty much their end. That being said, I move onto the problem at hand.

I've had an electrical-related ignition problem. I'll spare you the long story, but the engine starts to run really rough and stall when I hit the brakes to stop or at idle (see my "LOOOONG TF Shifting issue" thread in the Drive Train section for details). Well it seems that the brake light circuit is not the cause. the real cause is that it doesn't appear that I have 12V at the 'feed' side of the ballast resistor. NOTE: Yesterday, I noticed that my coil also gets extremely hot when the engine is running. I don't know how this fits in, but I am thinking it's related

Now this is where I ran one of the wires from the Electronic Control Module when I installed the Electronic Conversion kit. If I run a temporary jumper wire from +VBAT to the feed side of the ballast resistor, the idle smooths right out and there is no stumble whatsoever. remove the jumper and the idle is rough and wants to stall. I should also note that while the jumper wire is applied, the ammeter doesn't react when electrical loads are applied (like brake lights, head lights, etc.).

I have a theory that what I have been calling the 'feed' side, is actually the output side.

What do you folks think?

Thanks for listening!

Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / LOOOONG TF Shifting issue.!
« on: July 27, 2008, 11:14:28 AM »
The shifts in the Torqueflite in my Sport Fury take a LOOOOOONG time to complete. Under normal acceleration, the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts seem to happen at the right time, but are really slushy. With more 'spirited' acceleration, the shift issue is worse.

The fluid is clean, at the proper level and has no burnt smell. Once in gear it doesn't feel like she's slipping, but I could be mistaken I suppose.

Before I start getting bummed out about a trip to the transmission shop, could this be a misadjusted linkage problem? Seems to me I read about the linkage being directly responsible for the shifts.

Any help is as always GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks and standing-by,
Uncle Hulka

Tech- - DRIVE TRAIN / Torqueflite Issues/Problems
« on: July 10, 2008, 02:50:23 PM »
I took my '68 Sport Fury for a drive for the first time and the transmission acts funny. Details:

1-2 shift is 'slushy' at moderated load. At full throttle it's better. If I manually hold it in 1st under acceleration, I noticed it starts to feel slushy and then a good, firm shift.

The 2-3 doesn't seem to happen until 50+MPH! Under normal cruising (40MPH avg) it never shifts into 3rd.

The fluid is the correct color and has no 'burned' smell. It is also at the proper level (checked with the engine warm and the selector in 'N' per the service manual).

Don't know if this is any help, but the selector lever feels loose and a little sloppy. I have tried manually holding the lever in the proper position (detent) to see if that might help (linkage out of adjustment?) but no change.

The car is an L-code 440HP. It also has been sitting (inside) for a few years.

Any help is appreciated.

And for the record, these are REALLY neat cars! My first and I'm so hooked!

General Tech / '68 Sport Fury Update
« on: June 25, 2008, 03:29:19 PM »
Thought I'd keep the gang updated on my progress so far.

When I last left you, I had just diagnosed a bizzare problem involving my conversion to electronic ignition. With that done, I moved on.......

I decided that the original convertible top, no matter how much I loved having the original, had to be replaced. No tears or serious rips, but the material had shrunken severely and had become incredibly stiff as well. I have always had good luck with Year One so I bought the new top there. I got the top, the back glass and new pads, but sadly they didn't have a new well for my vehicle. Shortly afterwards I saw that Legendary has the well for my car! I found this out a little too late and it wouldn't have arrived in time for my installation date. No great loss, as my well is in great shape. And it's original

I am fortunate/blessed to have a great friend who restores interiors and convertibles. He is just plain awesome. He took a day off from a multi-year, concours-level restoration on a 1962 F.I. Corvette. He had never done a top on a C-body and commented several times on what a great design the Plymouth engineers did on their convertible top assemblies. Much easier on the installer.

When he was done, the top looked fantastic! Not a wrinkle anywhere. Thanks for a stunning job, Dan.

With the top done, I am closer to getting her registered. the last things I need are:


Tires - I'm keeping the stock wheels so I am limited. The original tire size was 8.25 x 14. This puts me in a modern tire size of 225/70R14. Money is tight, so I am looking at a set of Uniroyal Tiger Paw GTS, mounted, balanced, and all fees/taxes out the door for $360. Not a bad deal.

Mufflers - This is where some input from you guys would be welcome. I want to go with a muffler that will complement the 440HP engine. Yes, I want it to sound like the Charger in Bullet! Again, budget restraints haunt me but I think I can find something good in my range. Cherry Bomb? Walker Dynomax Turbo? My pipes are good and solid so all I have to put on are the mufflers.

A thought occurred to me just now. Do they make GTX-style tailpipes for my Sport Fury? That might not look too bad, eh?

Standing-by for wisdom and Thanks!!
Uncle Hulka

General Tech / Where the heck does this go?
« on: June 24, 2008, 03:58:01 PM »
OK, time for a stupid question. I just replaced the missing windshield washer reservoir on my 1968 Sport Fury. I see where the +12V connector mates to the pump, but I don't know where what appears to be the ground lug connects. I don't recognize this type of terminal.


Thanks,  guys!

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