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Messages - Alan

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 7
Tech- - Engine / Radiator Questions
« on: February 24, 2012, 03:22:52 AM »

Tech- -BODY / Weatherstrip adhesive
« on: March 03, 2011, 02:38:39 PM »
Thanks, black it is.

Tech- -BODY / Weatherstrip adhesive
« on: March 03, 2011, 09:27:11 AM »
I'm replacing my trunk seal and wanted to use the best adhesive. Is loctite any better than 3M? Is the 3M yellow the same as the black?

Tech- - FUEL / To drain or not to drain...
« on: August 20, 2010, 10:32:12 AM »
I'm sure Stan would agree with adding a can or two of Steele your tank, not the car's.

What length is your cable? I have a couple of different lengths somewhere.

General BS and Laughs / FIRST Kill ! ! !
« on: June 13, 2010, 02:51:22 PM »
Yur still makin testosterone???

Tech- - Engine / Radiator Questions
« on: June 10, 2010, 12:38:23 PM »
OK, so after spending half a day on the computer, I now know Mopar used a 22" & 25" radiator, BUT no one seems to make a copper or aluminum replacement in the 22" size. Just my luck! Sooo it looks like I'll have to recore.

Tech- - Engine / Radiator Questions
« on: June 10, 2010, 06:18:41 AM »
Thanks for the input Moores auto.
Don't forget about the trim pictures you were going to send me (Alan Floyd)

Tech- - Engine / Radiator Questions
« on: June 10, 2010, 03:15:48 AM »
As part of my ongoing restoration I want to replace or recore my radiator. Is there any advantage to going with aluminum? Copper deteriorates after a while but aluminum doesn't. The cost is about the same for a new aluminum and a recore. If I go with the aluminum is there a cooling advantage to go with a 3 core instead of 2?
I'm also having a problem with the size. All the websites for replacement radiators don't show my size. Neither my core or overall size matches what they offer. My existing radiator is a 2 row with core size 21 1/2 X 18 1/4. The only 2 sizes I see offered are 25 3/8, or 26 1/4  X 17 1/2. The existing radiator is for a 383 2bbl.

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Negative ground or Positive Ground??
« on: June 01, 2010, 01:49:21 PM »
Has the generator been disconnected? I seem to remember that if a generator has been removed, that it has to have the circuit polarized so it knows whether it is a positive or negative ground and  for it to charge.

If I remember correctly, to polarize the generator you have to quickly short between the battery (b or bat) and generator (g or gen) lugs on the voltage regulator to energize the circuit.

Tech- -BODY / Chassis coat
« on: May 03, 2010, 07:44:48 AM »
Heat it with a propane torch, it softens right up and scrapes off with a putty knife. Any residue thats left will wipe off with mineral spirits.  No matter how you do it, its a PITA job.

Tech- - Engine / New numbers!
« on: April 21, 2010, 08:10:03 AM »
I can't say for sure how Mopar equiped boats were done, mine were Chevies, But it stands to reason that it was done the same way with one of the  engine setup to run backwards. It wasn't done by using just an opposite rotation reverse gear (tranny). It was a real PITA because everything was different for that engine, water pump, starter, etc. And to complicate things even further, some boats also inverted the engines so the front was facing rear and attached the flywheel and reverse gear  to what is normally the front of the engine. Am I confusing you even more?  What it comes down to is, if you think you have a boat engine you need to know if it was setup for standard or counter rotation. No way will the counter  engine work in an automotive application. Boat engines also endure a lot more strain than a car engine, so used ones are usually pretty beat up. Sorry, long answer to a short question.

Tech- - Engine / New numbers!
« on: April 21, 2010, 04:19:04 AM »
Most twin engine boats had one normal rotation engine and one counter rotation engine to balance out the torque and stress on the hull, kept it running straight too.

General Mopar Discussions / Best of the old-Best of the new
« on: February 19, 2010, 03:46:13 AM »
Nice looking car, but after so much effort he slacked off on the wiring. Crimp on connectors?

General Tech / Headlight switch removal
« on: January 01, 2010, 03:22:40 PM »
I believe the correct name for the tool is  spanner wrench. Used to use them when I was working in a machine shop.

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