Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  


We changed servers, which is good, and lost all passwords, which is bad. See above.

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Paul

Pages: [1] 2
General Tech- - BRAKES / booster question
« on: August 11, 2008, 03:17:42 PM »
I have since learned that it is held in by a plastic clip that fits into a groove inside the booster valve.  You need to hold the valve from pulling out of the booster, and then pull on the rod until you break the clip.  I have since found that that replacement booster is also defective, and I have sent the booster to Booster Dewey in Oregon for repair.  $125 plus return shipping and it will be like new again.

Tech- - STEERING WHEELS AND SUSPENSION / PS Pump belt. Catch 22?
« on: August 11, 2008, 03:12:36 PM »
If you can turn the belt a 1/4 turn as if you are twisting it, you know it is tight enough.  If you can't turn it 1/4 turn, then it is too tight.  If you can get more than 1/4 turn, then it is too loose.  This is an old timers trick to belt tightness.  The new belts that are sold today, are not "wrapped" all around, and they are machine cut.  These belts will glaze over faster, and squeal.  I try to find the older type of cloth wrapped belts, and if you take proper care of them, they will outlast any modern day cut belt.   Most times that belts are out of alignment, it is a result of something being loose on the bracket hold down system.  I have rarely seen brackets that have been bent from a belt being too tight.  I have seen brackets that have been bent, because they were tensioned improperly using the wrong tool.  Also look for accident damage that has never been corrected. 

General Tech- - BRAKES / 1963 New Yorker Master Cylinder ?
« on: August 02, 2008, 08:48:35 AM »
Quote from: MoparMatt
As has been said that's the same casting up through 1966.  The only difference being the location of the outlet on some.  If the bore size is the same as your '63 it should work fine and look correct.
Which casting number are you refering to, or are both correct?  I only want to do cylinder sleeving once on the correct core.  thanks Junk...

General Tech- - BRAKES / 1963 New Yorker Master Cylinder ?
« on: August 01, 2008, 11:09:17 PM »
Almost 20 years ago, I rebuilt all the wheel cylinders, and the single master cylinder in a 1964 car.  I also installed new hoses, and checked all the brake lines for possible defects and installed DOT5 silicone brake fluid.  I have been driving that car ever since without any problems.  This past spring, I pulled each wheel, and checked each of the wheel cylinders.  They showed no sign of leakage.  I also checked the master cylinder for internal leakage, and there was none.   If you do the work correctly the first time, you will not have any problem.  Dual master cylinders are good for only one reason.  Most people never think of servicing the braking system, until they have to.  How many people change the brake fluid in their vehicles every 2 years?  Very few I suspect, since the average person has a out of sight, out of mind mentality when it comes to automobile maintenance.  Silicone brake fluid is not recommended for use in disk brakes. 

Tech- - ELECTRICAL / Turn signal switch woes
« on: August 01, 2008, 06:31:35 PM »
Don't know if this will help, because my experience with this type of switch is on the early model Corvair.  On those,  you install the wire, and  then you adjust the switch up and down on the column by sliding it with the mounting screws slightly loose.  You have to have someone looking at the taillights to tell  you when they are both off.  Then you lock the switch down with the screws, and try the handle at the top of the column to see if the switch works properly.  There is a mechanism at the top of the column that activated the switch and also cancels the directionals by moving the cable.  It is a convoluted system to set, but with patience, it can be done.  You might also still have a problem with all the contacts inside of the switch not making proper contact, even though you cleaned and lubed them. 

General Tech- - BRAKES / 1963 New Yorker Master Cylinder ?
« on: August 01, 2008, 06:16:00 PM »
I need to get a master cylinder sleeved, and I have access to two different cylinders.  I have been told by friends that either one is correct for original equipment on the 1963.  I would like to have a definitive answer on which one is the actual design that was original equipment from the factory.  They both look the same on the  top side, but on the bottom, one has a nub that isn't drilled.  On the other, there is no nub at all.  There are part numbers cast into the bottom of both, but I have  yet to be able to learn anything from these numbers, when I search old parts books.  The one that is correct, I am going to have re sleeved with brass by Sierra Specialty Automotive.  They came highly recommended by another hobbiest and restorer and the people that are doing my brake booster repair.  Thanks for the help... Junk....

General Tech- - BRAKES / booster question
« on: July 20, 2008, 01:48:40 PM »
I need to remove the push rod from the booster to install it in a replacement booster.  This is a Midland Ross booster.  The rod that I am referring to is the one that bolts to the brake pedal.  I got a replacement booster, but it doesn't have the rod with it.  I tried pulling it out, but without any luck.  Does anyone know what the trick is to removing this rod?  thanks Junk

General Tech- - BRAKES / How do you test a brake booster???
« on: July 20, 2008, 05:50:04 AM »
The correct one is on the right, and the one that they installed is on the left...

General Tech- - BRAKES / How do you test a brake booster???
« on: July 17, 2008, 02:49:01 PM »
Quote from: POLARACO
NOS as original 1963?  better rebuild them then.  You'll have the same fate.
A local auto parts store ordered in a pair of Raybestos, and when I checked the cylinder in the box, they were the same made in China junk as everyone else was selling. 
I will disassemble and clean, install new rubber cups, reassemble with brake assembly lube, and install them.  Using DOT 5 silicone brake fluid, and I shouldn't have any issues ever again.  I did find a place that will  resleeve the old cylinders with brass inserts today.  Very imformative website....  I will be sending them my master cylinder to have it redone. 

General Tech- - BRAKES / How do you test a brake booster???
« on: July 17, 2008, 06:22:55 AM »
I found a pair of NOS brake cylinders on eBay for $65 and $10 shipping.  They were in MA, so I should have them tomorrow by USPS.  Thanks for the information about your friend.  I will keep this in mind if I run into other problems in the future. 
If anyone needs a booster rebuilt, I can tell  you that Booster Dewey ( ) is a very honest guy.  He told me exactly how to check my booster and to only send it for repair if I can confirm that it is bad.  Suggested making sure that all the rest of the system if working properly before condemning the booster..  Cost for rebuilding is aproximately $125 plus return shipping, depending on conditiion of old booster. 

General Tech- - BRAKES / How do you test a brake booster???
« on: July 16, 2008, 05:45:15 PM »
I ordered replacement wheel cylinders from NAPA, because someone told me that NAPA had the right wheel cylinders.  They arrived today, and they were the same Chineese junk as what I had gotten at Advance Auto.  The only difference was that at NAPA, they were $36 and at Advance, they were  under $20.  So much for NAPA selling quality parts.  I guess that they think that a high price will give the appearance of quality, when in reality, it isn't quality at all, in my opinion.  I am continueing my search tomorrow with some of the Chrysler vendors on line. 
I am not certain where Bear Mountain is, but if it is in upstate New York, I am not close to it.  I will post more details of the NJ meet when I have more time.  thanks Junk...

General Tech- - BRAKES / How do you test a brake booster???
« on: July 15, 2008, 07:26:11 PM »
It may be slow because it is summertime, but this car is scheduled to make its debut at the Professional Car Society International Meet that is being held in Joisey the first week of August.  I can take it there without a radio, wheel covers, etc, but it is very hard to drive it there without brakes.  I need to find the answer to the spacer question, and a spacer ASAP.  Without brakes, I can't drive it around town to check out its reliability.  After all, it is a Chrysler!!!!!!   Seems that what ever can go wrong with a car is going wrong with this car.  I have replaced everything in the braking system, except for the backing plates and drums.  They were durable enough to last through the incompetence of the last rebuild. 

General Tech- - BRAKES / How do you test a brake booster???
« on: July 15, 2008, 04:36:43 PM »
Did my last posts kill this thread?  I feel like I was reading a book, and someone stole the last chapter out of it.. What was the final resolve of the brake problem?  Did you repair this yourself, or did you pay someone else to do it.
As a caution to everyone else, I purchased replacement wheel cylinders at a National auto parts store to rebuild my braking system.  Much to my disgust, today, I found that one of the new cylinders is already leaking, and the car is still in the garage..  The cylinder was manufactured in China, so I have ordered all new cylinders from another National brand store, that I know carries quality parts.  I just hope that what they will be supplying me with is an American made product.  I am totally fed up with all the crap that is coming from China that is marginal at best.  I have to depend on the brakes to stop the car, and I will not compromise my safety. 
I also have a brake booster question..... is there a spacer that goes between the master cylinder and the brake booster on a Midland Ross 10 screw brake booster.  The problem that I have encountered is that the screw stop in the back of the master cylinder  that keeps the piston from pushing out, hits the plastic breather filter plate on the brake booster.  You can see a small dot on the white plastic in the picture, where this screw is hitting.  If there is a spacer, might someone have a spare that they would be willing to part with?  Thanks Junk.....
Junk2008-07-15 21:37:17

General Tech- - BRAKES / Brakes dragging....
« on: July 06, 2008, 05:44:47 AM »
Quote from: jimmyray68
   Its only the front dragging, cables and all adjustments are fine. The fluid got a partial flush with the new master and r/f wheel cylinder last year. Guess ill purge the entire system and see what happens.
Junk2008-07-06 10:47:03

Tech- - Engine / Valve cover design
« on: July 01, 2008, 11:22:56 AM »
Quote from: POLARACO
Look here
Sheeesh  Another guy.  11,000 pictures on the main site     
With 11,000 pictures on the main site, there are only 2 pictures of 1963 Chrysler's and neither of them are big enough to answer my question.  Sorry to be a bother to you, so I guess that I will just take myself to one of the other Mopar Sites that appreciates people that are tying to keep these cars as original as possible.  I would expect that I might get this type of reply from another member, but not from the "Head Kahoona" Administrator.  It must be a "Jorsey" thing.   Also, it is KAHUNA  not Kahoona.... must be a Jorsey spelling...

Pages: [1] 2
© 2008-2014 Steve Hobby • © 2015 Allpar, LLC