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Members Projects => MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress => Topic started by: Dan Cluley on September 22, 2007, 12:29:53 AM

Title: MBONB
Post by: Dan Cluley on September 22, 2007, 12:29:53 AM
That's Mini-Barge On No Budget 
 
 
See what you started Lea. (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley17.gif)
 
Although the Convertible still needs LOTS of body work, and has a couple of minor issues, unless something actually breaks, it's just going to get driven as-as for a while.
 
 
This fall, all the time and money (right, what money?) is going into the new Dart.
 
 
 
(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/22/Aug_31_2007_b.jpg)
 
Things done so far -
 
Removed the remains of the vinyl top
Replaced the front brake hoses (hey the wheels go around now. (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley17.gif) )
Replaced the burned out light bulbs (everything electrical works except the drivers front marker light which is completely smashed)
Removed nasty old carpeting to find out how much rust in floor
Cut/fitted patch for left rear floor
Put in C-body sized front floor mat to cover holes in front floor
Removed wiper mechanism and ordered new seals (see above (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley22.gif))
Replaced dead battery
Temporarily installed old style '65 voltage regulator to keep replaced battery charged
Replaced fuel filter and rubber lines
Added second filter before pump
Drained gas from tank (they said it was running a few weeks before I bought it, didn't say it was running on the same gas as when parked 2 years previously!)
Cleaned sending unit and ordered replacement for MIA sock.
 
Major Projects that need to get done before Winter
 
Finish floor repairs
Deal with the little bit of rust in C-pillars (seems to be where the seam is part way up the side) and paint roof
Pass side upper control arm bushings
Exhaust
 
Wow, look how much shorter the second list is...
 
No, I'm not buying it either.
 
Title: MBONB
Post by: Steve on September 22, 2007, 04:59:23 AM
Hey  A Mini Barge!
Title: MBONB
Post by: Mike on September 22, 2007, 08:23:38 AM
Thats not a bad llittle mini barge at all, looks like a good daily grinder to me!

Title: MBONB
Post by: Arlen Vander Hoff on September 22, 2007, 11:45:04 AM
 
Quote from: Potatoe
Thats not a bad llittle mini barge at all, looks like a good daily grinder to me!
Heck yeah!!! Plus its got a 318!!! BONUS!!!!
Good luck with it Dan!!! Take advantage of the nice weather we're having right now!
Title: MBONB
Post by: Steve on September 22, 2007, 02:02:02 PM
Nice set of headers, some lake pipes, rims and tires, 4BBL , be a nice little car!  LOL
 
Seriously Dan, that looks like a winner.  It will run forever.
 
I suggest you check the T Bar Mounts in the back for rot.  If they aren't rusty, oil them up so they won't.
 
As I recall, they had a problem with rain leaks coming in through the windshield gasket too.
Title: MBONB
Post by: Mike on September 22, 2007, 02:04:10 PM
The 318 is def a bonus, super sweet little grinder indeed, that 318 must make that car book!

Title: MBONB
Post by: Dan Cluley on September 23, 2007, 12:50:24 AM
The little I've driven it, it seems to be pretty slow around town, but cruise on the freeway with no effort.  Don't know if that is the rear end (says it's a 2.76) or the motor. 
 
Keep in mind the only thing I've done to the motor is check that it had oil, and pull one spark plug.  No idea if the timing is right, and not sure if any of the emmisions stuff is hooked up right/working.  There is definitely one loose hose probably causing a vacuum leak.
 
Maybe I should just swap in a 383 with a blower on top.  Saw that in a '69 Dart this evening.(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley3.gif)
 
Since the exhaust needs replacing, I'm going to see how much more to go dual, but we'll see.  Not gonna chop up perfectly good fenders to put headers in! (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley17.gif) (might make front end alignments easier though? )(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)
Might go 4bbl at some point, but not soon.
 
I actually like those factory wheelcovers, but needs nicer whitewalls all around.  Same bolt pattern as the Chrysler, so it would be nice to standardize on one tire for both cars, but I suspect the Chrysler ones will be too big.
 
The "frame" seems really solid (that's a nice change) but will definitely check the T-bar mounts, I have heard that is an issue with the A's
 
Looks like most of the water has been coming in through the drivers side wiper pivot.  Gonna fix that and then back to the car wash.
 
D Cluley2007-09-23 05:53:03
Title: MBONB
Post by: Mike on September 23, 2007, 04:38:50 AM
Then you got to make sure the Rollers don't have SCMODS, Ar you want to
take that one for me?, Over all sweet ride, maybe all that 318 needs is
some tlc or the mini Bluesmobile needs a cop motor a four hundred and
forty inch cubic plant!!!!(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif)

Title: MBONB
Post by: Leaburn Patey on September 23, 2007, 06:10:03 AM
Duals should not be too much for that car. Go 2-1/2" with cheap regular muffs.It will increase the torque range and the wife will not complain about "the noise".
A 4bbl will definetly increase MPG with its smaller primaries.That's if you can keep yer foot out of it!!
You scored a good car since it already has electronic ignition,big bolt pattern, disc brakes,and A/C.
Little needs to be done to really enjoy the car.
How about MINI-BLUE ON A BUDGET
After all it is classified as compact car in its day...
Title: MBONB
Post by: Stitcherbob on September 23, 2007, 08:41:34 AM
Ya fergot one major thing on yer list of things to do Dan.....
 
remove the magic marker "critiques" all over the car! (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley29.gif)
 
Looks good though......I have a box with half of a control arm bushing set that I don't know what it fits. Anyone know what part #'s he needs for that car? I'll check Monday to see what they are.
Title: MBONB
Post by: Steve on September 23, 2007, 09:21:18 AM
Dan
 
I think you said that was a 75?  If it is, it's laiden down with all sorts of polutoion controls.  Most of them never worked anyway.  A finely tuned engine will produce less emmisions than they did with all that crap on them.
 
That could be the reason for the sluggishness
Title: MBONB
Post by: Dan Cluley on September 24, 2007, 02:49:43 AM
Lea,
I’m hoping that the exhaust pipe is good enough to get to next year, and they can just replace the muffler and tailpipe, but we’ll see.
I’ve heard that about the 2bbl vs 4bbl but never actually seen documentation of anybody trying both on the same car.  If I do it, will definitely keep track.
 
 
Bob,
 
Actually I got most of the scribbling off.  All it took was an hour at the car wash and a couple of Mr Clean Magic Erasers.
 
I don’t have a parts book yet, but RockAuto  shows Spicer #5601007 or AC Delco #45G8007 for the upper bushings if that tells you anything.  Thanks for checking.
 
 
Steve,
It’s actually a ’74.  The good news is no Cats.  J   Between looking at the FSM and poking at the engine I think I’ve got most of it figured.  There is a temp control thing in the aircleaner that controls the flap that lets warm air in to the snorkel (once I replace the missing duct)  There’s some sort of control thing on the side of the aircleaner that does something mysterious with the line to the vacuum advance on the distributor.  That has been bypassed.  Finally there is a temp control in the top radiator tank that is supposed to control the EGR valve in the intake.  That is all just loose (pretty sure I’m getting a vacuum leak from that line)
 
My thought is to check to see if any of the stuff actually functions properly.  If so try the motor both with and without and see what difference it makes.  If they don’t work, will just bypass them properly.  If I’m going to drive it this winter, pretty sure I will want the warm air duct working.
 
Oh, and not too worried about SCMODS, but then my violations list is single digit rather than triple. ;)
Title: MBONB
Post by: Steve on September 24, 2007, 04:34:37 AM
Quote from: D Cluley
 
 
Steve,
It’s actually a ’74.  The good news is no Cats.  J   Between looking at the FSM and poking at the engine I think I’ve got most of it figured.  There is a temp control thing in the aircleaner that controls the flap that lets warm air in to the snorkel (once I replace the missing duct)  There’s some sort of control thing on the side of the aircleaner that does something mysterious with the line to the vacuum advance on the distributor.  That has been bypassed.  Finally there is a temp control in the top radiator tank that is supposed to control the EGR valve in the intake.  That is all just loose (pretty sure I’m getting a vacuum leak from that line)
 
My thought is to check to see if any of the stuff actually functions properly.  If so try the motor both with and without and see what difference it makes.  If they don’t work, will just bypass them properly.  If I’m going to drive it this winter, pretty sure I will want the warm air duct working.
 
Oh, and not too worried about SCMODS, but then my violations list is single digit rather than triple. ;)
 
Good you found allot of the stuff.  Too bad you can't adjust the Cam.  The Cams were the main item they messed with for the emmissions.. . . Never did anything for the car except Pee off allot of people with lousey running and help the oil companies
We used to block the EGR port all together.  They did something to the carbs of that time which slowed the cars down.  The Gadget on the air cleaner was a timing advance delay.  It worked on the ambient temp.  Bypassing them never seemed to do much.  It might have been part of the faster warm up thing.
 
POLARACO2007-09-24 09:36:20
Title: MBONB
Post by: James Brown Jr, on September 26, 2007, 03:00:40 PM
nice find.it's exactally what i'm looking for. lol you should put a pre smog 318 in it and see what that does for power. well good luck with the car. maybe some more pics???
Title: MBONB
Post by: Mike on October 07, 2007, 03:00:21 PM
The Mini BluesMobile should get a 440 thrown into it, but would it fit. Then the power issue is solved.

Title: MBONB
Post by: Stitcherbob on October 07, 2007, 03:13:39 PM
Dan-
those parts I have are for a 64 Dodge 880....oh well. Maybe someone else here can see if his parts buddy has a listing for them (I think he drives a Polara....hmmmmm)
Title: MBONB
Post by: Leaburn Patey on October 07, 2007, 04:09:23 PM
IIRC,all my 318's liked 10-12* timing with the 2bbl.If there are caps on the idle/air screws,knock em out so you can fatten up the mixure to compensate the higher timing to prevent ping.
Open up the dizzy and check to make sure the mechanical advance weights are not stuck.Use a vacuum guage all the time you are making adjustments and diagnosing the suspected vacuum leak.
All the mid 70's Mopars I had or worked on had the time delay thingy on the air cleaner..They never worked and were bypassed.
Hook up the vacuum advance to the carb directly and see if there are any difference in idle.
As Steve mentioned,block off the EGR,you don't need it.
While you are at it,double check the kickdown throttle rod at the carb.Adjust as needed.
Why?
If it is not set up properly it can make the car sluggish.
Why?
Not only is it for the 3-2 downshift,it also regulates the trans fluid pressure.If it is out of adjustment the trans fluid pressure will be out of whack.
This directly affects your MPG as well.
I don't know how many times I had seen guys rebuild a carb,jam it back on,and complain it  still drives like crap when they totally ignore the kickdown rod. 
When set up properly with a good running 318,1st is good at WOT and will shift to 2nd at about 40,2nd is good all the way up to 70-75,then it should go to 3rd.Shifts should be crisp and smooth.
Around town,with a moderate foot Drive should be done by 30 MPH.
If it comes in too soon,it will be sluggish.
Hope this helps!
CBarge2007-10-07 21:20:28
Title: MBONB
Post by: Dan Cluley on October 14, 2007, 12:51:59 AM
Well the good news is, once I got the fuel sender (with new sock) back in I've driven about 500 miles without major incident.  :)   The gas gauge seems to be dead on accurate.  (the sender did seem to stick a little down around the bottom 1-2 gallon or two, so I'll have to watch that, but don't usually let it get that low)
 
With a little more experience, I don't think it's as slow as originally stated.   With the rather loud exhaust, I really wasn't using nearly as much of the throttle as it seemed.    It does have a little hesitation/stumble part way into the throttle, and this is much more noticable when the engine is cold.   The choke seems to be working properly, so I'm guessing the carb needs some attention.  (considering the cruddy old gas that get left in it, I can't imagine why? (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif) )
 
Until I get the tach situation worked out - http://www.moparfins.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=173 (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=173)
I'm not going to spend too much time messing with tuning, so I haven't cleaned the timing mark off.  It is either set at 0 or 10 BTC, (I can see the mark, just not read the numbers)  The vacuum and mechanical advance are working.
 
Shifting feels ok, but I will definitely check the kickdown.
 
Meanwhile...
 
Replaced the cap/rotor, plugs and wires.  Passenger side plugs are great, between the MC and the heat stove, the drivers side are possibly worse than the 383 in the Chrysler.(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif)  Didn't help that the old ones seemed to have been installed by Jocko the Ringling Bros Strongman...  15" breaker bar to get plugs loose?(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley3.gif)
 
Replaced those bad bushings.   It'd be nice to have a hydraulic press in the driveway, but I was able to do it with the 1/2" threaded rod and sockets/pipe fittings trick.  Looks like there is a little play in the pitman arm, so that's next, but it feels much more stable over rough pavement.  At some point, I want to add a sway bar.  This thing rolls WAY more than the Chrysler.
 
The leak in the exhaust has gotten worse.  Talked to my local guy, and as I suspected,  Fabricating a new Y pipe would actually be more than putting duals on.  So should happen later this week.  Does $250-300 seem reasonable?
 
Most of the floor patching is done.  I REALLY wish I had the patience, equipment, and mentor that CBarge has.  (If you guys weren't 10 hours away, I'd be stocking up on beer bribes (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif) ) so my work isn't too pretty, but it is plugging the holes.
 
New wiper pivot seals in, and replaced the broken plastic bushing/connctor things in the linkages.  Replaced the non-broken one too, just as soon not have to work with that  mess again any time soon.  New blades, and I've got working wipers.  Yay Me. :) 
 
All the windows have been adjusted/lubed, and go up and down pretty nicely. :)
Front doors open/close and lock/unlock smoothly.
Right rear door, which didn't open at all from outside, now usually does.  The mechanism that the handle pushes on got bent at some point, and I have almost got it back right.
I need a new can of spray lithium lubricant  (and possibly a prescription for lithium pills (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif) )
 
Current issue is temperature.  The gauge moves a little as the engine warms up, but never really goes past the very bottom mark.  Coolant is at the top of the rad, and nice and green.  There is some in the overflow tank, but haven't seen the level change.  So I'm not sure if the gauge has a problem, the sending unit has a problem, or maybe the thermostat is stuck open?  I do get some heat from the vents inside, but don't know how much to expect. (don't know when/if the heater core has been flushed either)
 
Still no more pictures, but the only thing I've changed outside is replacing the broken markers, and replacing the missing antenna.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Title: MBONB
Post by: Steve on October 14, 2007, 05:11:32 AM
I assume the engine is getting hot?  If not, maybe a thermostat is in order.  That gauge might just be a sending unit..  Simple enough
Title: MBONB
Post by: Leaburn Patey on October 14, 2007, 05:57:34 PM
Quote from: D Cluley
 
The leak in the exhaust has gotten worse.  Talked to my local guy, and as I suspected,  Fabricating a new Y pipe would actually be more than putting duals on.  So should happen later this week.  Does $250-300 seem reasonable?
 
The dual exhaust price is a deal--go for it!!(http://moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley20.gif) Get 2-1/4" as mentioned. 
Sounds like the accelerator pump in the carb is dried out from sitting.Easy carb to rebuild and adjust.
 
Dan,thank you very much for your kind words.I am humbled.
 
You are doing just fine with your car  no matter how you do it. Another fine Mopar being saved and enjoyed..
 
Beer bribes not necessary..but will glady accept!! LOL
 
I drove to Joisey six hours..Heh what's another four?? No sweat.. 
CBarge2007-10-14 22:58:30
Title: MBONB
Post by: Dan Cluley on October 20, 2007, 11:14:42 PM
Carb -  Getting a working choke pull-off, has actually taken care of most of the problem.  It probably wouldn't hurt to clean/rebuild, but it has moved down the priority list. 
 
Looking down the throat, when I move the throttle lever, 2 streams of gas shoot out, so I assume the accelerator pump is OK, right?
 
Kickdown seems to be right, as it matches what Lea said . 
 My morning drive includes a weird uphill entrance ramp that is two lanes that merge into one just before the highway.   Had a Crown Vic crowding me from behind, while the other lane included a flatbed truck loaded with a full basement worth of cement blocks.  So I floored it.  Went into 2nd at exactly 40 (tiny chirp from one of the tires too(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley1.gif)) and 3rd somewhere between 65-70.
 
Timing - Ooops (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley3.gif)  I was assuming the marks were similar to the Chrysler 383.  Once I got it cleaned off, discovered it was set at 10 degrees AFTER tdc!!  Adjusted that to 10 before, and the idle smoothed out quite a bit.(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)  Haven't really noticed much difference while driving though. 
 
Any suggestions for the easiest way to work with the distributor holddown bolt?  Between the vacuum advance, the coil, the bulkhead, the oil pressure switch, and the heater hoses, it is almost impossible to get a wrench in there. (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif)
 
D Cluley2007-10-21 04:18:19
Title: MBONB
Post by: James Brown Jr, on October 21, 2007, 01:33:31 AM
when it comes to the distributor bolt?? the only thing i can say is make room, try removing the coil and other items in your way them put them back once the bolt on the distributor is tight.  well it's nice to see it coming together. good luck Dan
Title: MBONB
Post by: Steve on October 21, 2007, 06:12:09 AM
Quote from: D Cluley
 
 
Any suggestions for the easiest way to work with the distributor holddown bolt?  Between the vacuum advance, the coil, the bulkhead, the oil pressure switch, and the heater hoses, it is almost impossible to get a wrench in there. (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif)
 
There are special distributor wrenches available, but usually don't work well.  I loosen it with a short 1/2 box wrench, and then use a 3/8 drive swivel socket and a long extension.  Ofcoarse, the advance will be right where you don't want it.  But that works for me.  Actually, I use a 1/4" drive set now.  I found the thinner shaft works better, and you can tighten the dist plenty.
 
Just a note on that, once you have that socket in place. .  .don't take it off until you set the disty bolt.  You'll hate yourself
Title: MBONB
Post by: Leaburn Patey on October 21, 2007, 07:21:53 AM
I have been using an old Snap-on offset closed end box wrench om my Dippy's distributor.Short yet but I can only do a 1/4 turn at a time.But it works... I slide the coil out of its bracket leaving the wires attached.
 
No ping?? Try 12* and see how she reacts.It should give you better stoplight take off.If there is ping,fatten up the mixture a 1/4 turn at a time.If that is no good,drop her back down to 10*.
I assume no break up when at WOT on the on-ramp,so there is still room for some fine tuning.
How is your vacuum?? Did you use a vacuum guage at all?
Good to know that the tranny is working properly! (http://moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley20.gif)
Now let's get the 318 purring like a cat and roaring like a lion!! LOL (http://moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif)
CBarge2007-10-21 12:27:45
Title: MBONB
Post by: Dan Cluley on November 03, 2007, 02:14:56 AM
First off, a rant about the jerk who owns Mason Muffler & Brake.
 
 I was ready to do the exhaust last week, so stopped by the shop on Thursday morning to set up a time to do it.  His sign says open 8-6 M-F.   After I waste half an hour, he finally rolls in at 8:35.  Tells me he’s booked up for the day but Fri looks ok.  So I tell him I’ll bring it by first thing in the morning.  Friday, he shows up at 8:45.  Points to several other cars out front and says I’ll have to leave it for the day.  Those were dropped off over night and it’s first come, first served.  -- “I stopped taking appointments a long time ago, most people don’t show up anyway.”
Considering the number of other shops in the area, I’d love to know how he gets away with that attitude, but anyway….
 
Went back to a shop in Lansing that did work on the convertible a few years ago.  Rolled out 3 hours later with a complete set of duals.  Due to cost and design consideration, we went with 1-3/4” pipe from the manifold down past the T-bars (the drivers side is really tight clearance) and then 2” all the way back.  Not quite the recommended 2-1/4”, but still should be a significant upgrade from the original 1-7/8” single pipe, no?
Everything seemed good at first, but once things warmed up (and the trans mount is pretty tired, so I think the motor moves around a little more than it should, I was getting contact with the drivers side T-bar.  A little work at home with the prybar and that’s taken care of.  Still getting a little noise on the drivers side, but I think it’s a slight leak in the manifold or the manifold/head surface.  Definitely much quieter than before.  J

 
 
Got the coolant temp questions figured out.  Both the sending unit, and the thermostat were bad.  Ok, the thermostat wasn’t really bad, just vandalized.  The housing was in place, but somebody pulled the guts out of it. Still haven’t had to deal with temps below freezing, but with outside temp in the low 40’s after 15 minutes of driving, it was like an oven in the car.  J

 
 
Removed the trim from around the front and rear windows, and got the last of the vinyl top bits off.  Metal seems to be ok around the windows, but there are a couple of rust holes in the outside of the C-pillar (right below the welded seam)  Not sure how much more good weather we’ll have, so for the moment, I just used a wire wheel to grind off the crapper filler job they did over the seam (the A-pillars, didn’t get any at all!) and get to bare metal around the holes.  Hit it with Rust-converter, primer, and spray-bombed the whole top white.  Eventually will re-do the filler to cover the seams, but at least it’s protected.  Even though it’s definitely a 20 ft paint job, it certainly brightens up the look of the car.  J
 (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/22/Dart_A_pillar_Oct_27_2007.JPG)
 

 
 (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/22/Dart_C_pillar_Oct_27_2007.JPG)
 
Title: MBONB
Post by: Arlen Vander Hoff on November 03, 2007, 05:36:19 AM
Rooking gooood Dan!!! I have an 8 track player if you want it!!!
Now you just have to come up with The Best of Sam and Dave!!!(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif) (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif) (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif)
Title: MBONB
Post by: Steve on November 03, 2007, 05:41:56 AM
Lets all go up and pile into his driveway so he has to stay late, then just leave.  LOL
 
Aren't independant business men wonderful?
 
I'm one.  I go to work late every day.  But then again, I work later than anyone else does in my outfit. . .  But I do have people there on time.
Title: MBONB
Post by: James Brown Jr, on November 03, 2007, 06:56:02 AM
nice job on  the top Dan. it's alot like the job i did on Susan for the winter
Title: MBONB
Post by: Dan Cluley on November 03, 2007, 08:05:16 PM
The other thing I did this week was switch the tires around.  Not sure what the long term plan is, but for the winter, I have put the 4 fairly new tires from the Chrysler onto the Dart.  It came with a mixed set of 205/75 tires, one of which has a slow leak, and several have balance issues.  The 300 wheels have 215/75 which seem to fit fine, and have a nice set of whitewalls.  I don’t think the Dart wheels are wide enough to put 215s on, and they look a little wide in the front, so will probably eventually get a new set of 205s
 
Once the new tires were on, I took it for a long enough drive to check the accuracy of the speedometer/odometer.  It’s 100 mile round trip to Grand Rapids, so I went and got dinner at the Steak and Shake on 28th street, and came home.  J
 
Compared to the mile markers on I-96 the odometer is off by 2%  which I can certainly live with.
 The speedometer is significantly slow however (I was suspicious of this already)  at an indicated speed of 60mph, the car is actually going about 67.  Since the needle is steady, I’m assuming the head unit itself needs cleaning/lubrication?

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/22/nov_03_2007.jpg)




D Cluley2007-11-04 00:06:33
Title: MBONB
Post by: Leaburn Patey on November 03, 2007, 08:31:00 PM
The exhaust sizing is Ok given the space constraints.The 2-1/4 was on my B body and I forgot the A is a smaller car.
Now you can really tune the 'teen....
With a vacuum guage,timing light,etc.
First,set idle air mixture screws.Turn them in a 1/4 turn each at a time.Watch your vacuum.As it goes down as the mixture gets richer,bring the idle up to 750/800
Check the vacuum reading.
Set the timing up to 12 *
again read vacuum.It should be at about 18 to 22 inches.
Bring idle back down...
Some times by listening to the idle,one mixture screw may have to be in/out more than the other.Make sure the vacuum is reading steady and not jumpy.
Adjust the mixture screws until she is smooth as butter.You really have to listen and read the vacuum guage at the same time.
With the duals,the higher timing and richer mixture will wake her up!
Go for a road test.If ping,drop timing a degree,or fatten up the mixture a little more.
This should give you more torque and increase MPG.
With the increase in flow of the duals,the 'teen will run lean,thus why I am recommending fattening her up just a little.She should also run cooler as well.
I wish I was there,Dan.I could do it in an afternoon..
How does she sound?
What type of muffs did you choose?.
Title: MBONB
Post by: Leaburn Patey on November 03, 2007, 08:39:56 PM
According to my book,the park brake cable should run below the transmission and above the exhaust.
 
Title: MBONB
Post by: Leaburn Patey on November 03, 2007, 09:11:08 PM
As for the tires,you should be ok.
According to my charts.( Tires is my occupation) there is a 51 RPM drop at 60 MPH when upsizing from 20575R14 to 21575R14
If you have 2.76 rear gears,the larger tire will actually be like 2.71 gear ratio
Not a big difference but it explains the higher speed by 7 MPH than actual reading.The difference in speed will not be noticed in city driving at lower speeds.
However RPM range may be noticeable.
At 30 MPH,in Drive the engine may be turning at about 1151 RPM with the 205's
The 215's wil turn the engine at 1126 RPM.This is just an example.
Shift points will come in sooner under light load by 10 RPM drop,and under a heavy foot it will take up to 50 more RPM's to get up to the next gear.
No biggie,just me crunching gumbers..
The A body rims are not as wide as C's .My Duster had 14x5's.My C's have 14X6"s.
Approved rim widths for 21575R14 is minimum of 5-1/2" and up.
Approved rim widths for 20575R14 is the same.
Use the skinny rims for wheel chocks,and get some wider ones off of Aspens,Volares,or another C and use them.
Title: MBONB
Post by: Leaburn Patey on November 03, 2007, 09:22:26 PM
Here are the charts I used:

Title: MBONB
Post by: Dan Cluley on November 17, 2007, 01:05:15 AM
Speedometer -----------------
 
I used the charts here - http://www.turbinecar.com/tires.htm (http://www.turbinecar.com/tires.htm)  which seem to have the same basic info. 
Of course, I'm not sure if the speedo pinion has ever been changed.  The door sticker indicates the original tire size as D78-14  which seems to fall in size inbetween 185/70 and 195/70  (there was one of each of these in the trunk) which are smaller than the 205/75 that I replaced with 215/75   (you can't tell the player's without a scorecard(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif))
 
All I know is at this point, the odometer is only off 2-3% which is close enough for me.
 
Now logically the speedometer should be off by the same percentage as the odometer, right?  So, since mine is off around 11% (at 60mph) I'm still assuming there's a separate issure with the speedometer itself. 
 
 
Fun with Fuel  ----------------------------
 
Back in September,  before I discovered the missing sock on the gas sending unit, the car died on my about 10 miles out of town.  So had the fun of getting towed home at 3am. 
 
Draining out the old/new gas mix and replacing the sock seemed to have mostly taken care of the issue.  I'm still getting a certain amount of crud in the filter (I added one before the pump) so it probably ought to have a new tank, but I figure I can replace a lot of filters for the cost of  a tank.  The filter after the pump is staying clear, so looks like the first one is doing it's job.
 
However it died again last Saturday night.  Not being on the freeway this time, I did a little more investigation.  Cranking the motor caused fuel to come out of the line at the carb, but it wouldn't start, and working the accelerator pump didn't cause the usual squirt.
 
Called the tow company, and after a while the driver calls back to verify my location.  His first question.  "Is this the same Dart I towed last month?"  -  Great... I know have my own personal tow driver. (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif)
 
Well, rebuilding a BBD is just a easy as everyone said. :) 
There was some sludge buildup in the bottom of the float bowls, but the rest didn't look bad.  So, I don't really know what clogged, but it seems to be working fine now.  Also, thanks to Steve, it has the proper choke pull-off now. :)
 
---------------------
 
Adventures in Audio will have to wait for another day.
 
 
Title: MBONB
Post by: Arlen Vander Hoff on November 17, 2007, 05:00:29 PM
Well sounds like your getting the driveability down to a science Dan!!
I hope it stays off the hook for a while!! (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif) (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif) (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif)
Title: MBONB
Post by: Jessica on December 06, 2007, 11:25:09 AM
Looking sharp! I like the two tone blue and white. Are you going to keep it that way? I imagine that's what the top USED to look like or was it more of a cream color? I had a 74 valiant that was a two tone tan and gold... beautiful looking car but ran like complete crap and never could get it straight. Glad to hear that you're getting the bugs worked out of yours! As far as a tires go, general rule of thumb I always went by at the shop was there's a 5 mph difference for every half inch. I haven't the patience to calculate as exact! (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley29.gif)

 
J
Title: MBONB
Post by: Dan Cluley on February 26, 2008, 01:36:18 AM
I don't ever seem to have time to post a full update here, so I'll just throw up a couple of photos.
I got one of those Pine scented air fresheners, but I couldn't get it to hang from the mirror.
 
(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/22/xmas_tree_in_dart.JPG)
 
 
 
This one is simply my excuse for not getting any projects done.(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley17.gif)
 
(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/22/dart_02_01_08_small.jpg)
Title: MBONB
Post by: Leaburn Patey on February 26, 2008, 02:28:41 AM
Good to see the Dart being driven.She looks very happy driving in the snow.
Title: MBONB
Post by: Dan Cluley on March 27, 2008, 02:07:03 AM
Front end work - Easy is hard, and Hard is easy?
 
We've had a few hints of spring weather the last couple of weeks, so I've been starting a few projects. 
 
The Dart has a couple of issues with the front end, so I thought I'd do them together. 
 
Left caliper has been leaking a little, needs new shocks, and the pitman arm has a little slop.  Take care of that, get new tires, and then re-align.
 
 
Shocks should be easy, right? (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)
 
I didn't think I needed to spend $110 on the KYBs, so had to special order Monroes- took 4 days  (they built how many million A-bodies, and nobody has shocks in the local warehouse?) and then they  turn out to be the wrong part.  So now I'm waiting another 3 days for the other number.
 
 
Brake cailper should be pretty easy, right?
 
This is the easiest caliper mounting system I've worked with.  Except when one of the bolt heads snaps off(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif)  Except that the broken bolt came out with no problem(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif) 
Easy? Hard?  this one was just weird!
 
 
I figured the pitman arm would be the hard one.
I've never used a pickle fork before, and when I bought the puller, the guy at the parts store suggested that I'd really want to use an impact wrench.
So the other night I figured I'd just clean the crud off, and see if anything would budge.  Everything came apart easily and in less than an hour later, the new one was installed.  Go figure.
 
After looking at the FSM and the car, I realised that the alignment was screwed up.  Somebody set this thing up with a couple of degrees of NEGATIVE caster.  The only way that is right, is if it has manual steering and bias ply tires.  I eyeballed it back to a little Positive caster and between that and the new pitman arm, it feels a lot more solid.
 
Next up, new tires for the Dart, so I can put the other set back on the Chrysler.
 
D Cluley2008-03-27 06:12:25
Title: MBONB
Post by: Dan Cluley on June 05, 2008, 02:00:57 AM
As of last week I have had the Dart for 6 months, and driven it 10,000 miles.  I think I'm getting my money's worth out of this one.(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley1.gif)
Title: MBONB
Post by: firedome on June 05, 2008, 03:32:21 AM
Great car!!  - I loved my old '68 Dart GT and '72 Swinger, both
/6s... wish I still had 'em in these days of gas at gold prices!!

Title: MBONB
Post by: Stitcherbob on June 05, 2008, 04:08:05 AM
Every time I see this thread Dan, the title makes me think it's about minding your own business and bringing your own beer......or something like that..... (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley29.gif) (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif)

Title: MBONB
Post by: Steve on June 05, 2008, 05:26:56 AM
They were so tough Dan you can put 200,000 on them.  Just keep the rust in check and the rest will take care of itself.
Title: MBONB
Post by: Leaburn Patey on June 05, 2008, 05:42:07 PM
Any noises can be fixed by turning up the radio!!! LOL