MoparFins

Techical Discussions => Tech- -BODY => Topic started by: Andy on August 01, 2013, 10:41:54 AM

Title: Body Mount Bushings
Post by: Andy on August 01, 2013, 10:41:54 AM
This car has been sitting in my garage for 5 years now just waiting to get done and driven, but every time I can do a little something to it I run into a bigger more expensive fix thanks to the shops that I let screw me...without one kiss!  (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley19.gif)  (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)
Title: Body Mount Bushings
Post by: dana44 on August 01, 2013, 11:27:09 AM
Get the measurement for a body bushing. You need outside dimension, hole diameter in the center, and thickness. You should be able to then install them. If you find something that is close, thickness can be shimmed and a flat steel plate can be added to increase thickness, and if the hole in the center is too small, you can literally drill a poly bushing to the right size, too thick can be milled/flat sanded if need be. Get something as close as possible, most of the poly bushing carrying stores have physical dimensions to make this happen, and if there is a steel bushing through the center to dictate compression without crushing, that should be easy, too.
 
Have you talked to the body shop about this issue? I would be holding them to account for the mistake/oversight/lack of knowledge, but hopefully the body work and paint is a good job.
Title: Body Mount Bushings
Post by: Andy on August 01, 2013, 04:46:10 PM
I can't really take the front clip off to measure the holes, so the next question is, is there somewhere I can go to find the dimensions of the original body mounts? Would that info be in a factory service manual? I have access to one.
Title: Body Mount Bushings
Post by: dana44 on August 01, 2013, 05:44:02 PM
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Energy-Suspension-Universal-Isolators.asp (http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Energy-Suspension-Universal-Isolators.asp)

They have some universal setups which should work. Yes, the shop manual should give dimensions of the isolators, the rest can be modified, I can help you figure that part out if the previous post doesn't get specific enough.
 
Now, to get the old ones out, and/or separate things enough to get to them, raise the front of the car enough to get under it comfortably, no need to go too high, maybe six inches higher than normal or to the point you feel comfortable underneath, but don't cramp yourself, this is going to be slow and easy.
 
Set the emergency brake.
 
While in this position, break the bolts loose but don't remove them, just want to make sure they move. Don't forget about the two radiator support ones, which I don't know if they are missing or not (I think you have some there anyway, book will verify).
 
Block the floating frame at the four corners so it is fixed and won't move around. Want to keep the subframe as steady as possible and not damage the body, so this is going to be a little fun.  Now, brace the body on either side of the subframe and radiator support corners, it is going to remain in place and the frame, engine and transmission is going to get LOWERED to add the bushings (that don't exist, right?). Don't open doors, hood, or anything else, want to remain positioned so things don't bend, latches keep things in place.  Is the front bumper going to be a problem, or a grille/valance going to get bent if it is in place? Hopefully it is off.
 
Only lower the cradle as much as you need, safest way to do this part is to loosen the bolts a little at a time and once you get the dimensions of the bushings, have blocks set up so the cradle only drops as much as this plus one extra inch, less movement, less chance of damage/problem.
 
Scissor jacks are good for the raising and lowering since they can be moved a fraction, long board (4X4) to cross to both sides of the cradle is strong enough to hold it, and try to maintain three points of contact, like one along the front or under the K member of the engine and one on either corner of the rear rails, lower slow with the bolts, raise slow until the bolts catch. Get yourself two bolts (once you get an original one out, or use the book, get two bolts or ready rod, three inches longer than the bolt to use as starter/alignment bolts, keep things in position, a single bolt can be removed any time to have this in advance, too). Once all have been installed, alignment is done with a tape measure from several different points of the body underneath to another opposite corner, book will show this stuff, but I have found that unelss the body/frame is tweaked, they fall well within specs of 1/10 inch or less. So basically get the six bolts tightened to about 15lb-ft  (very tight finger tight), lower the car, torque the bolts in a couple increments, center, opposite corners, other opposite corners. That's all six. Do them a second time, book will give torque, then just in case, raise one side by the cradle, check them again, do the other side.
 
If everything is done slowly, you can watch for problems. Bumper was one, engine stuff should be OK to move a few inches, body should remain stable and undisturbed for safety, and nothing should fall. Cables and lines should be OK, unless they are attached to the cradle near the bolts, disconnect battery just in case, radiator hoses should be OK, the rear will be coming down more than the front, especially being controlled with scissor jacks or controllable bottle jacks. Move a little down, check things, move again, keep it equal side to side, worry a little less front to back, rear will drop a little more than the front, more bushings there, then do the radiator support bushings (if needed).
 
Ask if there are questions, hope the link gets you bushings that will work.