MoparFins

Members Projects => MEMBERS Project Cars in Progress => Topic started by: Steve on August 31, 2012, 07:01:25 PM

Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on August 31, 2012, 07:01:25 PM

Do you realize it's almost 6 years since I did this car?

Since my truck is down again for the same problem again. . .   I'm going to spend my long weekend working on the roof and the Chrysler.

I have 2 solar panels to install, but that won't take long.  Do them in the evening. 

Chris.  That Polyester glazing puddy is tough stuff!  I got it all don and put that puddy on and tried to wet sand it with 320.  I may as well have been trying to sand the sheet metal. (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0184.JPG)

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0185.JPG)

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0186.JPG)

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0187.JPG)



POLARACO2012-09-09 01:32:49
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Brian on August 31, 2012, 07:22:10 PM
AGGGHHH Vinyl roofs...horrible invention!  I say smooth it out and paint it...just tu-tone the car...looks about the same, and way less chance of rust starting up again. thrashingcows2012-09-01 00:22:31
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on August 31, 2012, 07:39:31 PM


Most definitely going to paint it this time.  Same color as the white roof on the 62.  I just happen to have a quart already
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: azblackhemi on August 31, 2012, 08:17:51 PM
Quote from: thrashingcows
AGGGHHH Vinyl roofs...horrible invention!  I say smooth it out and paint it...just tu-tone the car...looks about the same, and way less chance of rust starting up again.
Yeah vinyl tops do suck. Right now I'm doing a 71 'cuda that had a vinyl top removed years ago. Unfortunatly it was on there long enough to cause alot of rust holes all around the windshield and rear  glass.  Lots of fabricating, lots of welding . Not fun.
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: azblackhemi on August 31, 2012, 08:20:43 PM
(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)
Quote from: POLARACO
I figured I'd give it an AzBlack paint job.
 
House paint and a roller (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif) (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif) (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif) (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)
 
Rollers work great but if you want a show quality job use a Wagner Power Painter! (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif) Also I prefer Behr over Glidden. (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on August 31, 2012, 09:22:50 PM

Rollers work great but if you want a show quality job use a Wagner Power Painter! (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif) Also I prefer Behr over Glidden. (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)[/QUOTE]
That's the one that primes and paints in one coat.
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on August 31, 2012, 09:32:49 PM

Quote from: azblackhemi
Quote from: thrashingcows
AGGGHHH Vinyl roofs...horrible invention!  I say smooth it out and paint it...just tu-tone the car...looks about the same, and way less chance of rust starting up again.
Yeah vinyl tops do suck. Right now I'm doing a 71 'cuda that had a vinyl top removed years ago. Unfortunatly it was on there long enough to cause alot of rust holes all around the windshield and rear  glass.  Lots of fabricating, lots of welding . Not fun.
I just had a thought.  Maybe I'll have the glass pulled, strip it, mix some paint and brush it in.  Then put the glass back in.
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Tom Dawson on September 01, 2012, 07:22:21 AM
Paint the roof a nice Pearl White, just like the color on late model GM uses on Buicks, Caddys and Tahoes. 

Tom



Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 01, 2012, 09:04:27 AM

Quote from: furyman67
Paint the roof a nice Pearl White, just like the color on late model GM uses on Buicks, Caddys and Tahoes. 

Tom


I dunno Tom. . .  It wouldn't look right unless I did something different with the green.  I think the pearl would look allot better with a darker color.  I can't imagine repainting this car now.
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Brian on September 01, 2012, 06:17:04 PM
Stick with mopar EW1...Spinaker white.  Just an off white and will look great with the green and the white interior.
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 01, 2012, 07:21:01 PM
I have 3/4 of a quart of white from the Chrysler.  I don't need to lay any money out other than to have the back window removed and reinstalled.

The wind kept tearing the masking off so I just tore it off.  I'll just clean the window with 00 steel wool.

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0189.JPG)



Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 06, 2012, 08:16:36 PM
Moving along.

Working on the rust craters and the hail dents.  I'm cleaning out the craters and treating them with rust converter before i fill them.

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0202.JPG)


(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0203.JPG)



Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Guests on September 07, 2012, 06:12:57 AM
I'm not a fan of hail, but what I hate more is a guy dropping the end of a 20  foot 4X12 on my truck door. At least the rear side mirror stayed on the truck and no glass got broken, right?
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: steve sclafani on September 07, 2012, 11:56:02 AM


I thought You'd put a Solar Panel in the Roof.
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 07, 2012, 07:22:02 PM

Quote from: FIN_NV

I thought You'd put a Solar Panel in the Roof.

No just the sat antenna.

I had the back glass taken out today and rush home to get started on the channel.  Didn't know what I was getting into.  Turned out to be not as bad as I expected, the holes were no bigger than the last time.  But they were leaking water in the trunk.  I found out the hard way when I laid in there to remove the molding strip.  Which is still on.  Heh

After grinding everything to bare metal, treated it with rust converter, sanded it again, applied some etching primer, let it cure, and put some All Metal in the channel.  Realizing its all fiberglass and aluminum I decided I would coat the whole lower track with it and create a plastic bowl so to speak.  Once I get the sealer primer on there, scuff that up and paint it, I doubt this will ever happen again.  Unfortunately, I forgot to take a pic of the before.  I went in to get the camera and forgot why I went in.  Sat and watched TV instead. (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif)

Hey Bobby.  So much for Lab Metal .

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0204.JPG)

Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: 300rag on September 08, 2012, 03:50:58 AM

Quote from: POLARACO
....  I went in to get the camera and forgot why I went in.  Sat and watched TV instead. (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif)

Onset of "Old-timers" disease (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif) You aren't the only one.


Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 08, 2012, 04:44:29 PM
OK  More progress and the Finale!

The guy at the paint shop I use is 70 years old.  He's done a few Mopars in his days too.  He showed me his Coronet which he just took off the road last year because of a tired trans.  He had the exact same problem in the rear window and like Polaraco, sat out side 24/7.  I remember him doing this car some 20 years ago.  It was a Jersey shore car, so salt was always around it.  What a rot box it was.  But Cecil got right into it, making most of his own panels.  Today the chrome is dead, and the interior is tattered, but the car has almost 200K on it.  It's a 383 4BBL Sedan with air and odd things like power windows and cloth interior. That's why he bought it.  Funny I can remember him doing that car vividly when I can't remember allot of other history.

Anyway There wasn't a spot of rust anywhere.

This is what he told me to do.

Grind out the areas and back away from the areas which have surface rust and craters.
Wipe with acetone to get any greases out.
wipe the area with a rust converter, making sure it is well into the craters.  Let dry.
Next, sand the surface to get the residue off.
Prime the whole area with a 2 part etching primer.  I use the DuPont.  (They didn't have etching primer 20years ago)
Fill the area with a non talc compound, like Gorilla Hair or Equal.  I like the USC stuff but can't remember the name of it now.
Sand, shape, feather accordingly
Apply a sealer primer.  After 4 hours you can wet sand it.  Don't cut into the metal.  If you do, you need to reapply the primers.
Paint it before 24 hours.  If it's after 24, you need to make sure the whole thing is wet sanded, at least with a 400, 600.

In my case, the area is not scene.  abd the edges will be painted over anyway.  Once the window is in, I can paint the roof.  But the paint needs to be at least 36 hours old before the glass goes back in.  In the case of the window channel, he said not to make it too thick.

It's expensive, but it makes allot of sense. 

So I have been following that procedure and the job is completed.  I brushed in all the layers so that it will be fully cured Monday.

This was the last 2 pics I took.  The rains came and cancelled the last pics until tomorrow.  All this will be feathered out and maybe primed by tomorrow night.

I had to write everything down several times and check each function off so I wouldn't forget.  If Cecil is right, Iwill never see rust there again.  Of Course there won't be a vinyl top either. (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif)

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0206.JPG)


(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0207.JPG)




Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Brian on September 09, 2012, 08:04:31 AM
Great advice from Cecil, and you Steve...Thank you!!  I will be jotting this procedure down in my black book...so I can access it easily when needed.(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif)
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 09, 2012, 04:48:25 PM
Thanks Brian.  Cecil give great advice.  Just don't ask him to mix you any paint. (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)  I swear that man is color blind.

After the last picture I finished the feathering, and re-shot the etching primer.  It cures quickly so I put in all new molding clips.   Just as I was starting to clean up, ie. blow out the interior, we got another down pour.  I managed to get the cover on the car before it got too bad.  But now I have to wash everything inside.  (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif)

I'll get into this next.  Once this is done, everything will go quick.  This damage is from the top as well.  Similar damage on the other side, but not as bad.

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0208.JPG)

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0209.JPG)

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0210.JPG)



Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Guests on September 09, 2012, 07:30:22 PM
Looking good Steve.
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Tom Dawson on September 10, 2012, 12:09:53 PM
I remember when you did the car the first time I said to paint the roof.


Tom



Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 10, 2012, 05:55:24 PM
I remember too Tom.  But got talked into putting a top on.  This is why I never put the top on the Virgin.


Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Brian on September 11, 2012, 02:32:35 PM
Did you know at the time the car was going to be outside almost 24/7?  If so why would you have even considered a vinyl top?(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif)
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 11, 2012, 04:08:28 PM
Yeah I did Brian.  But I never envisioned it giving me so much trouble so soon


Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 13, 2012, 07:08:33 PM
Gee  I may have this roof painted by Sunday.  Right now it's primed with the sealer.  I have a couple of spots to fix up.  And I'll prime it again.  I'll be wet sanding with 600 tomorrow, and I have that hole to repair, which is just a small spot.  I'll blend the primer and then hit it Saturday morning before the buds come out.  Provided it's not too windy.

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0211.JPG)

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0212.JPG)



Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Brian on September 14, 2012, 01:48:39 PM
Looking good Steve.  I have to do the roof and hood on the crw before the weather turns ugly too.
 
Btw...The heater/ac stuff is home, looks good.  I think I'm going to convert it to cable operation though.
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 14, 2012, 03:00:28 PM
Boy I can't win.  Now I know why we put a vinyl top on it.  To hide all this hale damage!

Anyway, it is what it is and is going to stay this way.  I spent all day on the left half of the roof and stuff is still showing up.  I keep glazing out the lows and it never seems to end.

Anyway, I did manage to get this done right.

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0208.JPG)

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0213.JPG)

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0214.JPG)

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0215.JPG)



Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 15, 2012, 01:57:57 PM
Nuff Said

This is several hours old now, but as usual, as soon as I mix the paint, the winds start and that butt wipe kid shows up to mow the lawn.  (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif)  Dirt is limited though.  I soaked down inside, outside, all over the place.  The dust started to fly after everything dried out.  32% humidity today so it dried fast.

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0218.JPG)


(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0217.JPG)




Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Guests on September 15, 2012, 05:51:22 PM
Dirt buffs out, right?
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 15, 2012, 06:52:29 PM
Yeah  I'm becoming an expert at it.  The saving grace here is it's not metalic.


Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 16, 2012, 03:17:24 PM
(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0221.JPG)


(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0222.JPG)

Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Tom Dawson on September 16, 2012, 04:06:19 PM
Looks good Stevo, great job.

Tom




Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 16, 2012, 04:29:13 PM
Thanks Tom.  At least the Green parts will be easier.  I just have to feather the primer and throw the color on.  As long as I have the color in the gun, I'll fix some dings and scratches 


Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Guests on September 16, 2012, 04:43:29 PM
Looks real nice, Steve.
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 16, 2012, 05:50:27 PM
Sherman I am not. 

But I must say, after working ion the body shop part time,  I learned allot about technique with a gun.  Orange peel is non existent.  No Drips, No Runs and I didn't leave my palm print in the dust. (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif) (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif) (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)  

I just have to deal with the dust on the surface.  Which hit right after the second coat.  I also slowed it down a tad so it would flow longer.  Big mistake when you paint in a tent.  LOL




Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Brian on September 16, 2012, 06:13:25 PM
Looks good Steve....won't be having many issues with rot now.(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif)
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 16, 2012, 07:12:32 PM
I just realized

I spent 2 hours running the stainless through the buffer today and you can't see I took 40 years off of all the trim.

I didn't go nuts, I just got rid of all the little scratches.

Seeing it in real life, the trim has an impact.  It glitters if you look close.



Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Brian on September 16, 2012, 09:12:30 PM
Stainless still oxidizes...and minerals from tap water, and weather leave lots of residue on them.  I went back and looked at the pics...you can sure see the gleam.
 
 
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 22, 2012, 06:08:31 PM
Ahhhhhh   I screwed up the clear.  The lower grade clear flows out better.  I have a middle grade solids clear.  I couldn't get it to lay down right.

Gonna have to watch the guy I work for for the gun technique.  He showed me the strokes for the base coat, which I did flawlessly.  I WANT AN AZBLACK FINISH!  (Without the paw print LOL)

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0223.JPG)


This door got mangled with a ladder.  I can't find the repair on it or the trunk.  Getting better in my old age. (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0224.JPG)



Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 23, 2012, 05:57:21 PM

Chris

Look at the trunk lid.  What the hell did I do wrong?  I can sand it out, but the clear didn't even flow out.  It's like it was too thick or something.

This is after I did some wet sanding and polishing.  Have allot more to do.  This side got just the rear quarter  done above the molding.  That spot by the marker light is an unfinished repair.  I have several spot repairs to do.  But with a finish like that coming out, there is no way.

(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/attachments/5/100_0226.JPG)





POLARACO2012-09-23 23:02:06
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: azblackhemi on September 23, 2012, 06:30:35 PM
Can't really see much in the pictures. What kind of materials are you using?  Did you follow manufactures mixing ratio and use correct temperature range reducer and hardener?
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 23, 2012, 09:00:19 PM
Dupont   7775 Clear  Followed instructions  2 to 1

Look across the deck.  It's not orange peel, it's like it didn't flow.  Now you know I do better than that.  Look at the roof.  If anything, the temp was below what it should have been

The good news is I can save it.  If I break my arms.  To save time, I'll use some 600 chassed with 1000



Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: Steve on September 24, 2012, 06:54:08 PM


Nuff said (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif) (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif)
Title: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
Post by: firedome on September 26, 2012, 07:17:20 AM
So you're working part time in a body shop? Great way to learn the pro techniques, I've considered it myself, if there was a convenient one nearby.