MoparFins

Techical Discussions => Tech- - Engine => Topic started by: Bill on February 07, 2012, 03:20:44 PM

Title: Broken dipstick tube
Post by: Bill on February 07, 2012, 03:20:44 PM
Anyone have any suggestions about removing a broken dipstick tube from a 440 that's presently in the vehicle?   Yes it happened during the header swap, no it appears it was broken before the headers were being installed.  When I unbolted the tube it just kind of fell over.  I thought it was odd at the time, but when I got around to looking at it, I realized there was more of it left in the block, clean at the opening in the block.  

TIA.
Title: Broken dipstick tube
Post by: Guests on February 07, 2012, 07:51:34 PM
You need an easy out that doesn't go too deep into the hole. Broken dipsticks are a pain, and if you can get a screw type easy out to grip it hard enough, then grip it with vice grips and then tap up on the vice grips to get it out. It is a little under 2 inches long. If that doesn't work, then yeah, tap it out from the pulled pan, use a drill bit butt end up the sixe of the hole and it will come out.
Title: Broken dipstick tube
Post by: Steve on February 07, 2012, 09:12:18 PM


is it flush?  or is there some sticking out?
Title: Broken dipstick tube
Post by: Bill on February 08, 2012, 03:06:40 AM
The flare separated flush with the block.
Title: Broken dipstick tube
Post by: Steve on February 08, 2012, 08:30:11 AM


Are you going to have the room under there with the headers?
Title: Broken dipstick tube
Post by: Bill on February 08, 2012, 09:28:18 AM



I'm pretty sure I can get to it.  And if I need to make room, I need to make room I guess.  The 1st tube is pretty darned close to the steering box.  My biggest issue from the bottom is the dang starter and cross member.  From the topside it's just distance, this fat ol' body don't bend and stretch that way anymore.


A mopar mechanic buddy of mine suggested using a self tapping bolt but that don't sound like much fun.   I've seen the jaggovs at moparts suggest from time to time using lag bolts, and I'm purty sure I don't wanna do that either.

czervika2012-02-08 14:32:28
Title: Broken dipstick tube
Post by: Guests on February 08, 2012, 09:53:33 AM
Steve's right, if you can get a punch or chisel in there to crimp the edge, it would be easier than the easy out or self-tapping bolt, which is like the easy-out.
Title: Broken dipstick tube
Post by: Steve on February 08, 2012, 10:18:09 AM


You could torch it (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)
Title: Broken dipstick tube
Post by: Bill on February 08, 2012, 10:38:54 AM

[/QUOTE]

The car? 
Title: Broken dipstick tube
Post by: Steve on February 08, 2012, 12:13:05 PM


No the tube silly! (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)
Title: Broken dipstick tube
Post by: Brian on February 08, 2012, 08:42:55 PM
I had this happen on a 360 years ago.  I tried all kinds of different ways to get it out.  Eventually I chewed things up so bad I had to pull the pan and punch it down and through.

Hope it goes better for you!





Title: Broken dipstick tube
Post by: Bill on February 13, 2012, 02:37:30 AM
welp it's out.  I actually went with a long lag bolt 5/16" x 5" to be exact.  The awl just sheered the lip right off for some reason, may as well have used a chisel.   When I got the drag link off, I realized I don't have a swivel that turns at a sharp enough angle to reach the two bolts over the cross member.  Yes I could have gotten them out other ways or went out and picked up a snap on swivel.  My concern became getting the bolt back in.   So in the end I gave it one last gasp before I said F' it.  And man was that thing in there tight.
Title: Broken dipstick tube
Post by: Steve on February 13, 2012, 06:56:57 AM


Kual
Title: Broken dipstick tube
Post by: Bill on February 13, 2012, 09:29:01 AM
Not really but fudge it that's done.  Now for some reason this thing started leaking anti freeze from the radiator at the lower hose.    Just chasing problems now....