MoparFins

Rules and General Info => WELCOME NEW MEMBERS! => Topic started by: Jay on November 05, 2011, 03:50:47 PM

Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 05, 2011, 03:50:47 PM
Hi, Newbie from South Dakota. I want to start off that I bought my Grandpa's 1966 Chrysler New Yorker at my Grandpa's Estate Auction. This is a car my mother grew up in and I bought it to keep it in my family. Some dude was wanting it for a Derby car. its too nice and history i have with it to be sold to get smashed up.
 
 
here's some photos. this is gonna be my BEFORE picture. I got plans to restore this car and make it look brand new ( I hope ) and keep it for the next 20-30 years if I live that long.
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300432.jpg)
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300433.jpg)
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300464.jpg)
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300465.jpg)
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300466.jpg)
 
 
I got several things ordered to fix here and there, Sway Bar bushings, Motor mounts and tranny mounts.
 
I got a few questions, I need Sway bar Links... i cant seem to find it. is it included in a Sway bar bushings kit? I ordered a kit and its from Ingalls Engineering and looks like the bushings for it, however, I have one broke LINK that i need replace. What or where can I find a Link or is there a better way to replace this? I see theres some U mount kind of Links I probably could use that would work, but I kinda wanna keep it like its a Factory built rather than adding aftermarket stuff other than bushings I know I can't get OEM on or any other OEM parts.
 
On someone's picture in this post from a Google search, I seen they totally replaced the link and re did the structures and used a bolt instead of a OEM link style. any help or answer would be nice. thanks and I hope to be on this site as much as I can when Im home.
birdman6520012011-11-05 22:54:34
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Steve on November 05, 2011, 04:16:06 PM


Where are you in SD?   There's a yard I frequently buy from in Rapid City
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 05, 2011, 04:49:07 PM
Im from Central SD as in Winner, SD. My Uncle is in Rapid City and hes got an under going 1970 Cuda still restoration.  Yes I know I got a ways to go to get this suspension under control, for now, Im taking it easy on the the car. I got a guy who does my repaint jobs so hes gonna look at it tmr and give me an estimate, i got a guy gonna do the carb rebuild. Im thinking of replacing the intake to a Holley. I am gonna see what its gonna take for the A/C as well, either convert to R134 or keep it original style as R12 is gonna fade away and can not get it anymore.  All windows go up and down, my Antenna goes up and down. My grandpa had the seats vinyled cover at one point. I dunno who did it but they did an excellent job making it look like it was the actual seat covering although the original seat you can see is the arm rest. i got a ways to go, a sending unit is not working for the fuel guage. I can NOT find the Trip Reset button for the Tripmeter. pls help me. whats the black deal on my dash on the driver side, its got a day/night or day/evening deal switch???  the Light switch is shorting out so i got a new switch coming.  Im having this car for the rest of my life, so im in no hurry for it but i do want it done eventually when my kid gets older, go for a nice drive and turn heads with a stunning looking car.
 
 
 
we still have a 1959 Chrysler Imperial still for sale if anyone is interested. it runs, just has a clogged fuel line somewhere. pour gas in it and it'll run for 3-5 mins and then quit.  I have pictures if anyone is interested in seeing this car.
 
a 1941 Chrysler Royal Fluid Drive we had for sale but just got sold. I will call and i will need this stuff. I assume then to get a whole new sway bar to fix this??? should i do the rear sway bar as well?
 
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 05, 2011, 04:54:37 PM
I just clicked that site, its up but didnt find the Sway bar on there, however i see the Sway bar bushings are the same as MOOG. i got mine from a Partstrain.com and they were cheaper, however i see they ripped me off on SHIPPING 14.00 and Handinging 10.00 so a whoping 24.00 on shipping. really? is this really that heavy? come on. the bushing set was 13.00, the motor mounts were from 3.00 each and tranny was 5.00 each. but okay... better than the prices i found on other sites.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Steve on November 05, 2011, 05:10:50 PM


You have to call them.  I gaurantee they won't charge you twice the freight costs.  LOL
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 05, 2011, 05:22:11 PM
Quote from: POLARACO
Word to thew wise
 
Watch what you buy from these sites.  A 3 dollar motor mount will not last long.  Made in China.
 
I never said Just Sus was cheap!  LOL.  I doubt those are Moog though.  Moogs quality has gone in the dumper.  I like to buy quality parts and do the job once.
 


 
 
 
well if they arent MOOG... then they did a damn good job of taking the SAME exact pic of MOOG's bushing set if the one on JustSuspension is different....
 
 
 
EDIT* just looked at my ordered from partstrain.com and its not a MOOG. its Ingalls Engineering Sway Bar Bushing set.
 
 
the motor mounts were Westar motor and tranny mounts. good or bad? i know they are cheap, but til i do an actual overhaul, then i will pour money into the suspension since usually on old cars like these, suspension takes a beating.
 
 heres the LINK to the MOOGs bushing set...
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=203094 (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=203094)
$13.32 for that set.
 
now heres JustSuspension.com's bushing set.
http://www.justsuspension.com/stabilizer-bar-bushing-15918.html (http://www.justsuspension.com/stabilizer-bar-bushing-15918.html)
$31.11 for the set and same picture as MOOG's.
birdman6520012011-11-05 21:26:53
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 05, 2011, 06:17:25 PM
The broken link you are talking about goes from the swaybar end to a bracket on the lower control arm, right?
 
If so, it should be a curved washer, a bushing, the swaybar end, a bushing, a curved washer, a steel tube, then curved washer, bushing, lower control arm bracket, bushing, curved washer and a long grade eight bolt going through the whole thing and a nut on the end . There's nothing really special about the bolt, just measure the opposite side and pick it up at the hardware store, most likely around eight inches, then you only have to find a metal tube to fill in between. This is how the aftermarket has been doing it for decades, otherwise the original one can be made from round stock and the ends machined and threaded so a nut fits on each end.
 
Nice '66 New Yorker, looks like it was kept in the garage during the winters. Congrats.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Steve on November 05, 2011, 06:33:29 PM


I was sending you to JS for the link assembly.  They had them, I've bought them
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 05, 2011, 06:34:32 PM
okay call me dumb if this is what youre talking about... on the front of the anti sway bar, two links on there are bolted up to the a welded frame which i THINK that is attached to a wall of the fender or control arm, i havent looked closely, then the end of the sway bar goes down to two bars that come from the front to the A-frame.   are we on the same page or different? if not, i can take pictures as its in a garage at the farm.
 
 
yes... anything my gpa had that ran, sat inside even in the summer. it was never left outside over night. he had sheds all over the place. even had a 1930 Model A which sold at the auction for $10,000.00.   my Grandpa was a huge chrysler guy.
 
 
several chrysler windors, one 4 door and one 2 door
two 1941 Chrysler Royal coupe, one ran and one was a parts car
1959 Chrysper Imperial
1965 Newport
1966 New Yorker (my car now)
1971 Newport
1978 New Yorker
1956 Ford Customline 2 door, ran but needed a person to do a restoration.
several chevy cars that didnt run.
 
list goes on. even a rare find of a 1935 Ford truck flatbed that still runs! that was shedded as well!
 
 
Most of the cars he had needed paint jobs but the only one he kept good paint was 1930 ford and the 41 chrysler.
 

Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 05, 2011, 06:37:45 PM
Quote from: POLARACO
I was sending you to JS for the link assembly.  They had them, I've bought them




 
 
i did go there... found the sway bar link bushing site and perhaps maybe you have been buying the MOOG and didnt know it????
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 05, 2011, 06:43:43 PM
Quote from: dana44
The broken link you are talking about goes from the swaybar end to a bracket on the lower control arm, right?
 
If so, it should be a curved washer, a bushing, the swaybar end, a bushing, a curved washer, a steel tube, then curved washer, bushing, lower control arm bracket, bushing, curved washer and a long grade eight bolt going through the whole thing and a nut on the end . There's nothing really special about the bolt, just measure the opposite side and pick it up at the hardware store, most likely around eight inches, then you only have to find a metal tube to fill in between. This is how the aftermarket has been doing it for decades, otherwise the original one can be made from round stock and the ends machined and threaded so a nut fits on each end.
 



 
 
 
sorry... double reply on this...
 
but come to think of it.. its not a BOLT that goes up. its a bushing holder with a long bolt going up. no slide through bolt. it has a square bushing, with two smaller round bushing where the nut would hold.  so its a machined link. probably OEM linkage and never been changed. it looks like it has been broke for quite some time.  other side isnt and you can tell when the car sways alot when you turn left, but not right.
 
 
I will definately take pictures tmr and then go from there. thats teh best i can do to get this corrected and i dunno what to do to correct this til I overhaul the whole suspension next winter. i just wanna buy all this stuff and have it all paid for and ready for my next winter project. i dotn wanna buy new this and that... and waiting on other stuff. i will want to do it all at once and at a time where im not gonna drive the car, example, winter time.
birdman6520012011-11-05 22:46:59
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Steve on November 05, 2011, 07:07:41 PM


The upper and lower bushings I was talking about are definitely not Moog.  I got a year out of a set of Moog and going on year 4 with the just servers bushiings.  I know he has those made.  Best bushings I ever bought.  And I've done piles of them.  I even have the tools
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 05, 2011, 07:10:50 PM
Quote from: POLARACO
Yeah  those are the stabilizer links.  That's what I was talking about.  The kits I used ot get had the bushings in them.  Somewhere around here I have a bunch.
 













 
 
DUDE!! if you got the OEM links somewhere... let me know and i will buy some from you. I know the other one isnt looking good and should replace both of them. til then i can use that til i actually get a NEW bar and aftermarket linkages. but for now, i just want to do a simple fix as i got a kit coming and wanna do the linkage fix and re do the suspension next winter.
 
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 06, 2011, 08:51:02 AM
okay got pictures... then i got some maybe perhaps some of you can explain what it is and what it does...
I know my power steering is leaking. i found two loose clamps so tightened them up and then filled up the power steering.  
 
Stability bar linkage.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300511.jpg)
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300510.jpg)
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300512.jpg)
 
 
now to some that i need explaination on....
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300514.jpg)
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300516.jpg)
 
 
 
and i found this car has electric seat... WTF???  i didnt even know it! im telling ya, this car has been in my family for years and i didnt even know he had this car til i he had me drive it in the parade 3 years ago. reason why i bought it bc it drives and runs nice. no clunk when you put it in drive or reverse. it shifts smoothly.
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300508.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300522.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300509.jpg)
birdman6520012011-11-06 13:53:04
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 06, 2011, 09:27:22 AM
OK, I forget there are a few different things on the Chryslers than the other Mopars of the era. This is the same style as the rear on the other one we were dealing with several months ago, isn't it? Strong setup, but a real pain in the rear to fix when they break.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 06, 2011, 11:10:53 AM
must be. I have never seen a Linkage like this. I have been with my uncle working on his 1970 Cuda and they were different than what i have.
 
 
I just got back from talking to paint guy and another guy to rebuld my carb since its gummed up pretty good and is a blackish coloring on the hull of the carb... so hes gonna rebuild that, and im gonna get the intake off and clean it up and put a new kit in. He says he may have a linkage since he has a 1965 chrysler sitting at his farm place that is way behind repair and says he thinks hes got the same linkage and is gonna try to take it off and give it to me. i offered a price but he wouldnt take it but give it. so we'll see if its the same bc he wasnt sure if it was but thinks it may be the same kind i have.
 
Paint guy is gonna to paint the outside, and interior  of the door frames and when i do my overhaul, hes gonna paint the engine bay for me.
 
 
birdman6520012011-11-06 16:12:23
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Steve on November 06, 2011, 12:26:11 PM


We have a bunch of cat lovers here
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 06, 2011, 12:37:34 PM
i live on a farm. i got cats and a dog. cats are good to have around.. at my place.. i hardly see any mice. at the farm place, theres tons of mice running around... no cats.
i drive truck during the week... a cat is idea for me bc i dont have to be here to let the cat out to go to the bathroom... plus i do LE work on the weekend. so outdoor dog, i have ONE indoor cat, and a few outside.  
 
birdman6520012011-11-06 17:40:00
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 06, 2011, 02:22:44 PM
Question I have is, how does one get the square metal holding the square rubber damper off the swaybar without cutting the thing off and then rewelding after back on the swaybar, unless you have two good linkages on a bar and you replace the whole thing?
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 06, 2011, 04:03:06 PM
Quote from: dana44
Question I have is, how does one get the square metal holding the square rubber damper off the swaybar without cutting the thing off and then rewelding after back on the swaybar, unless you have two good linkages on a bar and you replace the whole thing?






 
 
you have to take the WHOLE sway bar off and slide them off and then install the new bushings. there is a split down the one side of the bushing so you can squeeze it through. The Sway Bar KIT is included with all the new bushings for linkage AND end of the swaybar that is bolted down. no welding is done, just takes time than to be a simple fix like aftermarket style. But my problem is, i have a broken LINKAGE.  you can tell that the car is higher on my driverside and the passenger side is solid and tight... so when i take a turn one way, it sways. i need a linkage or im gonna be all over the road.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 06, 2011, 04:58:21 PM
I know the bushing is cut side to side, and I will bet good money you won't be able to put the new bushing on and then slip this metal clamp and linkage over it. Like I said, we went through this a couple months ago and it took some real engineering and welding to get a new one to work.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Steve on November 06, 2011, 06:59:59 PM


Drill out the welds on the clamp and spred it.  Then bolt it back together
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Snotty on November 07, 2011, 02:22:18 PM
Quote from: birdman652001
Quote from: dana44
Question I have is, how does one get the square metal holding the square rubber damper off the swaybar without cutting the thing off and then rewelding after back on the swaybar, unless you have two good linkages on a bar and you replace the whole thing?






 
 
you have to take the WHOLE sway bar off and slide them off and then install the new bushings.
 
That only works if your swaybar has a round end.  If yours does, good for you.  The ones on my '70 have a flat end which is why you have to cut them as Ed was saying.
 
Nice car, good score, and welcome!
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 09, 2011, 02:18:19 PM
Quote from: POLARACO
Drill out the welds on the clamp and spred it.  Then bolt it back together





 
 
I am thinking JUST that... this way i can replace them later. however i need to NOT break the other one and measure the length of depth i can go bc i think they have to be set to a certain height. (sorry took so long to reply, I drive truck so i finally got home tonight)  Once I have the length set, I can put in a metal tube to a height and put it in with a better grade bolt than the one that was in there.
 
 
BTW, got the parts in the mail yesterday. Motor Mounts were from PRONTO  and sway bar bushings from Ingalls Engineering.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 09, 2011, 02:24:15 PM
Quote from: Snotty
 
That only works if your swaybar has a round end.  If yours does, good for you.  The ones on my '70 have a flat end which is why you have to cut them as Ed was saying.
 



 
 
I think its rounded. If you look at the first pic in the Linkage sway bar, in my post, you can see it goes into another bushing. I would assume its round. but i cant tell at this point. it may be flat too.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 09, 2011, 03:21:42 PM
The bushing is square. The clamp on it has to be cut to get it off, the clamp is designed to hold the square bushing so as not to slip.  The end has a thru bolt and yes, is round, but you will not get this square bushing off the swaybar without cutting and rewelding the clamp on it. If the bushings are loose or move in any way whatsoever, they last about five miles and are beaten to death, the swaybar is exerting several tons of pressure in a turn and a bump in the road is again, several tons of pressure each time, and things don't last very long under those circumstances unless they are firm and fixed.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 09, 2011, 03:36:55 PM
Quote from: dana44
The bushing is square. The clamp on it has to be cut to get it off, the clamp is designed to hold the square bushing so as not to slip.  The end has a thru bolt and yes, is round, but you will not get this square bushing off the swaybar without cutting and rewelding the clamp on it. If the bushings are loose or move in any way whatsoever, they last about five miles and are beaten to death, the swaybar is exerting several tons of pressure in a turn and a bump in the road is again, several tons of pressure each time, and things don't last very long under those circumstances unless they are firm and fixed.



 
 
well it lasted this long 106,000 miles and finally one snapped. I would assume if I get it fixed right, it should last me a long while.
 
do you suggest I go aftermarket?
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Steve on November 09, 2011, 04:30:53 PM


They could easily be nade with a metal brake and some 1/8" bar.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 09, 2011, 04:47:08 PM
Didn't we do this to a 77 New Yorker or something, for the rear swaybar?
 
Use the length of the original unbroken one so it is the correct length, threads on the nut end to the frame and a lip so the outer washer doesn't slip on the rod, flat 3/16/3/8 inch flat plate with holes drilled on each side of that so a round bushing with one flat side can be clamped to the swaybar.  I will have to look for the post we had going on for this, I think it was attkrlufy that started it, and I remember putting a picture of what to do in there (thanks for the scanner Steve).  You can look it up and find out what worked and what didn't work, it took two tries to get it right.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 09, 2011, 04:55:52 PM
Quote from: dana44
Didn't we do this to a 77 New Yorker or something, for the rear swaybar?
 
Use the length of the original unbroken one so it is the correct length, threads on the nut end to the frame and a lip so the outer washer doesn't slip on the rod, flat 3/16/3/8 inch flat plate with holes drilled on each side of that so a round bushing with one flat side can be clamped to the swaybar.  I will have to look for the post we had going on for this, I think it was attkrlufy that started it, and I remember putting a picture of what to do in there (thanks for the scanner Steve).  You can look it up and find out what worked and what didn't work, it took two tries to get it right.
 
 
well they do make linkages for 77 on new yorker. my grandpa has a 78 New Yorker Broghram (spelling) and those are totally different than to the 66 linkage. so im not sure a 77 is gonna be the same.. perhaps it is.
 
tmr im gonna see my retired LEO guy and see what he found on his mother's farm he bought years ago since he said he has a 68 or a 89 chrysler there and see what kind of link he found.  if this is going to be a headache project, i may just do what Steve said, and call the just suspension and get an aftermarket for both front and back and get them done and over with. then when the motor is getting over hauled, i will have the frame and engine bay repainted so it will look good.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 09, 2011, 05:03:42 PM
The two are most likely different length and diameter, yes, but the process to create a replacement for the front is still the same, applied science, taking two things which are similar and adapting them to work. The reference has a square bushing and holder/clamped and welded casing and rod, just like yours, and it still bolts to the frame, you just have to build a strong enough rod and bracket to hold the same round with one flat side bushing around the swaybar. Same idea in both cases. Let me see if I can link to it.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 09, 2011, 05:10:01 PM
http://www.moparfins.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4349 (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4349)

Lots of pictures and about six or seven down is a little orange link with drawings I did. Same application and way to fix yours IF YOU CAN'T FIND ANY. I do imagine, given the way they are attached, the whole swaybar and rods all together is going to be best if you can get it, otherwise you have to do what this post shows because they don't make these bushings and rods any more.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 09, 2011, 05:25:59 PM
ill keep that in mind if i run into another broke link if i can get one done or from my friend. i got patience with this car.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 09, 2011, 06:21:19 PM
OK, plan on removing the other strut off with cutting and then cutting your old one off and clamping and welding the other one on. Welding underneath a car is never fun, patient or not.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Steve on November 09, 2011, 07:03:55 PM


You could buy a complete 1" sway bar and get it all.  Car will handle better anyway
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 09, 2011, 07:24:08 PM
I'm not sure that would work, because the way this swaybar attaches, it is opposite attachment of the others. Unless there are hanging swaybars, you will have to tell me, while I go look at the pictures some more, but the normal swaybar attahces to the frame and the links are at the wheels, not the other way around.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 09, 2011, 07:38:15 PM
Won't work Steve, ends point the wrong way and they connect to the struts, not the lower control arms. It's either find a good swaybar with both the links on them, or use the good link to remanufacture two adaptable new links and upgrade to a bushing that exists, just like attkrfuly did. Same thing exactly, so, I hope his buddy has the whole thing for him, would really make all these posts just conversation, but as long as we get him fixed, great, right?
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 13, 2011, 05:33:55 PM
Okay I'm back from my mini weekend with the gf, I picked up the part from my retired Police Officer friend... now heres the Sway bar linkage off from MY car... i havent taken it off yet...
 
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300511.jpg)
 
 
 
 
now heres a pic of the sway bar linkage he gave me.. missing the clamps to hold the bushing in to hold onto the sway bar.. it would work!!! but now I'm stuck in another problem. do i cut off these bolts and weld them to the existing piece on my car?
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/IMG-20111113-00168.jpg)
 
 
opinions are WELCOME!!!
 
 
.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 13, 2011, 05:41:25 PM
See if you can get the other pieces from your buddy, these look like they are designed to be in place, then there is a tab that fits into the square hole, and the piece is designed to have a bolt through it that will tigheten and clamp onto the bushing as it is tightened. If he took them apart, even if the bolts are broken, that is an easy replacement. As thick as the metal is/has to be, it would require heat to bend to make them, but it would be best to use them as is and not do any cutting and welding, which could damage the rubber from the heat, which would be immense.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 13, 2011, 05:46:12 PM
This site has a bolt set but only works on chrysler 67 to 78. would this work or NO?
 
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=11&partnum=K6629&a=FR11-K6629-169812 (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=11&partnum=K6629&a=FR11-K6629-169812)
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 13, 2011, 06:28:57 PM
No, that is the other style I thought you had to begin with, more like 99 percent of the sway bars out there. See if you can get the other ends and the bushings no matter what condition they are in so you can ensure they match the strut itself.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Snotty on November 14, 2011, 09:08:23 AM
Quote from: birdman652001
now heres the Sway bar linkage off from MY car... i havent taken it off yet...
 
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300511.jpg)
 
  
now heres a pic of the sway bar linkage he gave me.. missing the clamps to hold the bushing in to hold onto the sway bar.. it would work!!! but now I'm stuck in another problem. do i cut off these bolts and weld them to the existing piece on my car?
 
 
I looks to me like you should be able to use te links you picked up.  However, do not cut and weld them, use them as they are.
 
You will need to cut the original links off as you will never get them to come off of that sway bar, unless the bushings are totally shot.  As you can see in your picture your bar has the flat ends, not round ones. 
 
Now, you can re-use your original links, but you will need to seperate welds on the bottom of the link.
 
There is another option.  In '71 Chrylser added nuts/bolts to these links at the factory.  Up through '70 they are as in this picture.  If you can find a '71 and newer C body in a junk yard you can pull those links and use them with new busings.  No cutting or welding necessary!  (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif)
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Steve on November 14, 2011, 12:48:29 PM


Or maybe you have a fabricator that would brake out the bottom bracket.  That's what I would do, but I have the tools and equipment.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Tom Dawson on November 14, 2011, 01:12:54 PM

Quote from: birdman652001
Okay I'm back from my mini weekend with the gf, I picked up the part from my retired Police Officer friend... now heres the Sway bar linkage off from MY car... i havent taken it off yet...
 
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300511.jpg)
 
 
 
 
now heres a pic of the sway bar linkage he gave me.. missing the clamps to hold the bushing in to hold onto the sway bar.. it would work!!! but now I'm stuck in another problem. do i cut off these bolts and weld them to the existing piece on my car?
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/IMG-20111113-00168.jpg)
 
 
opinions are WELCOME!!!
 
 



Believe it or not those are the same links used on a mid to late 70's B-body, replaced them
on both the 78 Fury Salon and 79 Cordoba I had, but I used poly upper bushings on them, I even have a couple of links in the basement for my 67 Fury.

Tom

Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 14, 2011, 01:57:53 PM
Quote from: Snotty
 
 
I looks to me like you should be able to use te links you picked up.  However, do not cut and weld them, use them as they are.
 
You will need to cut the original links off as you will never get them to come off of that sway bar, unless the bushings are totally shot.  As you can see in your picture your bar has the flat ends, not round ones. 
 
Now, you can re-use your original links, but you will need to seperate welds on the bottom of the link.
 
 
okay, after searching for abit. i see they made two different kind of sway bars for the C body. one is a sway bar mounted to a Frame, and another one mounting from the Strut Bar. mines off from a Strut Bar. So this 71 B Body sway bar would work for a C body???
 
 
 
 
Quote from: furyman67
 
 
if you got some in your basement, mind taking a pic and post it up for me?  i can use all the photos i can get for references.  i would assume Cbody and B body were completely different as frame are designed differently. as Body were muscle car type of frames and C body were classic types such as 300s and new yorkers.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 14, 2011, 05:08:19 PM
No, the B body sway bar would not work due to the frame and lower control arm connections on the car, the brackets necessary to attach it to the frame would make the brackets necessary to work look rediculous, and the points where it attaches may be too close to the bends in the swaybar itself, too many little variables that I do not believe would start adding up to be wrong.
 
Get the bottom pieces to the brackets from your friend and install them.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 15, 2011, 03:00:50 AM
Quote from: dana44
No, the B body sway bar would not work due to the frame and lower control arm connections on the car, the brackets necessary to attach it to the frame would make the brackets necessary to work look rediculous, and the points where it attaches may be too close to the bends in the swaybar itself, too many little variables that I do not believe would start adding up to be wrong.
 


 
 
Im just quoting Furyman67 asking if B body links would work since he said it would. i dont think it would work taking a B body link to a C body. totally different frame work.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 15, 2011, 08:35:40 AM
I made the same mistake initially, I am more of a B body guy, so I didn't realize the difference in the swaybars for the C bodies, two different animals literally, both mounting and the end design is different, frame mounting is different and the lower control arms are different, so no way the two could swap.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 15, 2011, 04:12:02 PM
okay so we got the body design aside.
 
 
has anyone dealt with JC Auto Restoration, Inc. company before that is from WA state?
 
I emailed about getting new linkage awhile back and they replied today. i also sent pictures and they said they can set me up but i need to pull off the link that isnt broken and measure it so they can find the right size for me. I also sent them an email back with the linkage i got from a friend, they said that could work but needs the right bottom piece to hold the bushing in and to hold on to the sway bar. so i need to get my butt over there on sunday and take the other one off and measure it.
 
 
this thread is beginning to be a not so newbie anymore...
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Steve on November 15, 2011, 05:02:47 PM


I may have heard of them, but there are so many of them around
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 15, 2011, 07:26:23 PM
Yeah, I heard of them, think I bought the window rubber from them back in 1977 (seriously).
 
The thing is, they don't have the ones you need, they want the measurements so they can simply match something up.
 
GO GET THE BOTTOM PIECES FOR THE ONES YOUR FRIEND GOT FOR YOU AND SIMPLY USE THEM, THEY ARE SERVICEABLE WITHOUT HAVING TO USE A CUTTING WHEEL OR HACKSAW, AND A WELDER.
 
Don't mean to yell so much, trying to save you money and a future hassle.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Snotty on November 16, 2011, 03:27:18 PM
Quote from: dana44
 
GO GET THE BOTTOM PIECES FOR THE ONES YOUR FRIEND GOT FOR YOU AND SIMPLY USE THEM, THEY ARE SERVICEABLE WITHOUT HAVING TO USE A CUTTING WHEEL OR HACKSAW, AND A WELDER.
 
 
I agree
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 16, 2011, 04:14:29 PM
Quote from: dana44
Yeah, I heard of them, think I bought the window rubber from them back in 1977 (seriously).
 
The thing is, they don't have the ones you need, they want the measurements so they can simply match something up.
 
GO GET THE BOTTOM PIECES FOR THE ONES YOUR FRIEND GOT FOR YOU AND SIMPLY USE THEM, THEY ARE SERVICEABLE WITHOUT HAVING TO USE A CUTTING WHEEL OR HACKSAW, AND A WELDER.
 


 
 
 
I hear you man.. my friend didnt have the bottom pieces..
 
*ahem*  WHERE AM I GONNA FIND THE BOTTOM PIECES FOR THE ONES I GOT???
 
sorry to yell.
 
seriously, where am i gonna find that? i need to find it somehow and the JC Restoration said if i want, they MAY have the piece im looking for on the ones i was given. so i did email them back to see if they did and if they can get it for me. no response yet.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 16, 2011, 05:49:46 PM
Well, time to get creative or start searching a few yards to find the pieces or at least a good picture so you can make one, or two, depending on whether or not you want them to match. So evidently your friend either had a car with the swaybar removed and simply pulled what was left over. Maybe he could tell you what year and model they came off of in order to narrow down a search for you.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Steve on November 16, 2011, 06:25:54 PM


They;re pretty easy to make
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 19, 2011, 02:59:20 PM
SOMEBODY HELP ME HERE!!! 
 
http://www.cbodydrydock.com/forum_viewtopic.php?5.115445 (http://www.cbodydrydock.com/forum_viewtopic.php?5.115445)
 
 
that dude looks like hes got the linkage i got from my friend.. I NEED those ENDS.. and those LINKS in his Fourm looks NEW.... hes got the SAME EXACT Sway bar set up as my car...
birdman6520012011-11-19 19:59:59
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 19, 2011, 03:09:21 PM
I posted on that forum and see if i can get a NEW sway bar kit since this guy got one THIS year... so they still make them. just dont know WHO makes them yet.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 19, 2011, 03:41:52 PM
got an immediate response! im gonna get a new sway bar. $295.00 for the kit with including all. im gonna do this instead.
 
http://www.firmfeel.com/swaybars_c.htm (http://www.firmfeel.com/swaybars_c.htm)
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 19, 2011, 06:34:13 PM
Perhaps you could save some money and just get the two struts and bushings. The bushings are just like the ones I drew up the design for a couple months ago, the flat bar is as thick as it should have been for the rear end of 77 Chrysler (I believe) because smaller initially bent, so good to see there is something that works, but perhaps you can save some money and pay like $50 per strut or something like that. Besides, if you look at the ends, I don't think they will work on your car, looks like they have to be welded to the lower control arms because the ends are pointing the wrong direction, they are horizontal instead of vertical like your sway bar. Try to save some money and just replace the two struts and bushings.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 20, 2011, 04:24:01 AM
well the guy realized in the picture that his sway bar was upside down. it will work for my car. His car is a 67 Newport C-body. TOTALLY compatiable. so if he can get one, im gonna get a NEW set. as rusted as the rest of the bar and the linkages i got... i can hold on to those and when and if the NEW link breaks, i got another to replace it AND have the clamp bottoms ready to go. im set. im not gonna machine shop anything.  
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 21, 2011, 07:45:14 AM
Quote from: furyman67
Quote from: birdman652001
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300511.jpg)
 
 
 
 
I will stop trying to save you money after I point this last thing out in reference to your purchase of a sway bar that is different then yours. See the straight bar that runs along the right side of the picture? At the bottom right corner there is a clamp and a through bolt for the sway bar. Look at the end of the swaybar and the way it attaches to the forward control arm, then look at the new swaybar and picture. The "new" swaybar will require some manufacturing to attach it to the lower control arm, as in a bracket that needs to be bolted (thus a bolt hole drilled into the lower control arm) or welded (still extra work).
 
Either way, yes, it is your money, your labor, your hassle, I'm done.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 22, 2011, 03:06:53 PM
the one the person had in his bar is the exact same as this one i have. i dont know how that is different?
 
 
okay... look at these pictures.  two above are MINE... two below i got from the website.
 
 
Factory set linkage
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300511.jpg)
 
linkages from my friend....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/IMG-20111113-00168.jpg)
 
 
 
NEW firmfeel sway bar on a person's project car..
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/Picture0021.jpg)
 
 
 
NOTICE IT LOOKS EXACTLY LIKE MY SWAY BAR SET UP???
 ALSO if you look at my first picture near my DATE stamp, AND the last picture (below) looks like the SAME set up as this one.. keep in mind, he didnt realize his SWAY Bar was suppose to be ABOVE the control arm and not below it... so he changed it the right way according to MY CAR PIC.
 
  I guess im CONFUSED on what youre trying to say? its like i have to do IT YOUR WAY because you said so. Okay DAD.
 
Keep in MIND you saw a ONE photo from that firmfeel website and i knew that is NOT the sway bar but it is whats posted on that site. If you read on that site, you MUST tell them what you NEED for a sway bar set up... the one on that PHOTO is a B body sway bar and NOT a C bc B body are more popular than C body. so the photo YOU saw is not what i was referring to. see below picture and you will see my car and this guy's 67 Chrsyler is totally the same set up.
 
IM DONE.
birdman6520012011-11-22 20:18:11
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Steve on November 22, 2011, 04:25:35 PM


I'll see if I can find the ones I have this weekend
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 22, 2011, 05:24:58 PM
(http://www.firmfeel.com/img/C1%20SB%20End.jpg)

 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300511.jpg) 
Wow, it worked. Look at this swaybar (above) and compare it to your swaybar (below), they do not swap. You need the link shown at the right of the top picture, your bar is not this kind, so, if you can get the  two links (a matching pair so they handle the same), you can forget the rest of the bar, it is not the same kind of attachment (look at your connection and the left side of this pictue of the top picture and the right side of the bottom picture, the ends are physically different), thus you are either going to be fabricating, or, wasting your money.
 
I am not your dad, so don't go there, I'm not interested in a fight, just trying to help you from doing more work than is necessary, and I have wasted enough money myself on things that didn't work, so trying to help your money go farther than mine.
 
dana442011-11-22 22:27:14
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 22, 2011, 05:51:46 PM
HAHAH!!!  you didnt read what i said... THAT PICTURE IN THE WEBSITE IS "NOT" the bar for the 66 Chrysler... READ.... READ... that PICTURE... IS.. NOT... THE .... SWAY ... BAR... FOR ... THE CAR.....
 
 
THIS is the GUYs CAR where he BOUGHT his SWAY BAR KIT from FIRMFEEL.com.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/Picture0022.jpg)
 
 
THIS IS MINE... IDENTICAL!!!!  ALL I HAVE TO DO IS CALL AND TELL THEM I HAVE A 1966 CHRYSLER NEW YORKER AND THEY WILL SHIP THE SAME ONE THAT GUY GOT IN HIS FRICKING PICTURE ABOVE.
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/S6300511.jpg)
 
 
seriously... are you drunk? who said the picture on the website is the one i think will work? im not interested in that PICTURE you posted up. are you really that blind?
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 22, 2011, 05:56:11 PM
PLEASE do me a fricking favor... click on this site...
 
http://www.cbodydrydock.com/forum_viewtopic.php?5.115445 (http://www.cbodydrydock.com/forum_viewtopic.php?5.115445)
 
 
THEN i asked where he found this sway bar bc its what im lookign FOR.. he stated FIRMFEEL.com... so please.. spare me the idiocracy thinking that sway bar you posted that you copied and pasted from the FIRMFEEL.com site rather than listening to what i fricken said...
 
 when they gave me the SITE... http://www.firmfeel.com/swaybars_c.htm (http://www.firmfeel.com/swaybars_c.htm) this is a PHOTO rep for a B-body and they stated you need to call them and tell them youre looking for a 66 C body sway bar... then they will send you the RIGHT ONE...
 
 
 
im done...  apparently someone cant see what im seeing. that bar Dana44 is totally different than the one with teh RED car showing off his firmfeel.com sway bar he bought and installed on HIS car...  that picture on the firmfeel is just a PHOTO in general. it is NOT the 1966's sway bar actual picture.
 
 
 
i feel like im talking to a dead horse. i think i will stick to Cbody Drydock since they know what they are saying and totally understood what i was asking. i guess you can say if i order it and its wrong... so be it... if its right.. dana44 is wrong.
 
birdman6520012011-11-22 22:59:03
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 22, 2011, 06:10:21 PM
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/Picture0022-1.jpg) 

 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/alkfdjal.jpg)
 
 
get it now?
 
 
the guy said when he installed his NEW sway bar from Firmfeel.com, he didnt realize he installed it upside down.. he got it fixed and put it where it suppose to be.. LIKE mine...
 
 
 
 
DO THE PICTURES HELP DANA44???? 
 
birdman6520012011-11-22 23:11:38
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Jay on November 22, 2011, 06:21:27 PM
pictures from C-body DRYDOCK site.
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/frontendrebuild2002.jpg)
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/frontendrebuild2003-2.jpg)
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/frontendrebuild2004.jpg)
 
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v735/wolverine652001/rightsideswaybar.jpg)
 
 
enough said. im not gonna explain anymore. that is CLEARLY the same bar as mine. EXACT BAR THS GUY ORDERED FROM FIRMFEELCOM.  when HE ordered, he said he needed a C -body sway bar kit... that is WHAT he got... not what the picture that Dana44 posted. that is not the correct one. like with Justsuspension.com.. as what steve said.. CALL THEM to get the correct part... same thing with FIRMFEEL.com.
 
 
 
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on November 22, 2011, 06:45:50 PM
A professional site needs to post correct pictures, especially if someone is going to use them as a reference with a model and year within the heading above the picture.
 
Have fun.
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 01, 2012, 05:30:14 PM
Smells like spammer in here!
Title: Newbie here....
Post by: Guests on February 01, 2012, 05:36:38 PM
Fixed it. Kind of neat that there is a link in the footnote to point them out, most are automatic of some sort according to Steve.