MoparFins

Techical Discussions => Tech- - Engine => Topic started by: R. Dave Carr on July 01, 2011, 08:48:38 PM

Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on July 01, 2011, 08:48:38 PM
Ok gang, '67 Newport, 383 2-barrel, Mopar electronic ignition.  Sat for about a year and a half or so.  Cranks over great, has spark, but will not fire.  Even poured some gas down the carb, and nothing.  Suggestions?
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Post by: Snotty on July 01, 2011, 09:12:22 PM
I was thinking that the timing chain might be broken, buit if it is you would not have the spark....  No ideas here Dave.  Is there compression?
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Post by: Steve on July 02, 2011, 08:41:57 AM


There is a rotor in it right? (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)
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Post by: Guests on July 02, 2011, 09:45:38 AM
Wouldn't have spark if there was no rotor, at the plug end. Rotate the engine over to line up the timing mark. After that is done, grab the harmonic balancer and see if there is any slop in the chian, it feels like a loose rotation before more parts start moving, shouldn't be more than a tiny bit or turn before you feel resistance increase. Timing mark lined back up, pop the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is pointing at number one or number six sparkplug wire on the cap. If not, adjust. There should be a vent on the carb where you can fill the bowl with fuel, it helps to ensure there is enough fuel that when you operate the throttle, fuel squirts. With this amount, it should priime the fuel pump from turning after a couple seconds and take care of itself.
 
Fuel and timing/spark at the plugs are the two quick checks, after that it is compression and timing chain.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on July 02, 2011, 12:17:05 PM
She's cranking normally, and he did nothing to it except for add fluids to it.  He only drove it a few times because he had lost his license.   It's just sat for a long time.  I had given it a fresh tune-up before I sold it to him.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on July 02, 2011, 12:19:25 PM
Can someone show me this vent so I know where to put the fuel in the carb?
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Post by: Steve on July 02, 2011, 12:48:12 PM


Not if he checked the spark at the coil wire
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on July 02, 2011, 12:57:07 PM
Yes, I checked at the coil wire.   I was pretty conservative with how much gas I added.carrman2011-07-02 17:57:47
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Post by: Guests on July 02, 2011, 01:32:22 PM
Look for a vertical tube at the front side of the venturii, between the two butterflies. I just looked at a picture and it is there(if it is the same model). You should be able to stick a wire down it to verify it is a vent tube, which goes into the bowl and allows atmospheric pressure to prevent vapor lock. Stick a tube in it and pour about three ounces of gas in her that way.  If the accelerator pump squirts, when she starts, the vibration should fix a sticking needle, and should turn over enough to get the fuel pump to push gas into the carb. 
 
And check the spark at a plug itself now that you know the coil is good.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on July 02, 2011, 03:11:00 PM
There is only one butterfly.
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Post by: Steve on July 02, 2011, 05:06:45 PM


Loosen the fule line a tad and see if it's pumping fuel
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Post by: Stitcherbob on July 02, 2011, 05:41:15 PM
clean & gap the plugs


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Post by: Guests on July 02, 2011, 06:24:56 PM
OK Steve, some carbs don't have vent tubes accessible, and I do know Mopars are some of them, just one of those things.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 20, 2011, 04:35:51 AM
Well, I added two gallons fo gas last night, and will add another 2 today, then it's starting fluid and battery cart rime.  Wish me luck.
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Post by: Guests on December 20, 2011, 07:44:01 AM
As long as you have spark and fuel to the carb, she should start, based on nothing else altered while sitting.  Wishing you luck, as asked for.
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Post by: Steve on December 20, 2011, 08:35:12 AM


Pull a spark plug or two and take a peak.  Wire brush it
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 20, 2011, 10:20:16 AM


Big advantage I have is the battery cart.  4 group 31 batteries in parallell on a trickle charger all the time, with really swell welding cable jump cables hardwired in.  Not much it won't start!  I also figure a shot or two from the "can of influence" will help also.
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Post by: Guests on December 20, 2011, 10:43:35 AM
Keep us informed, waiting with baited breath!!!!!!
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 20, 2011, 03:33:31 PM
Newport beat me this time.  Not getting gas to the carb.  Car is pointed uphill, was nearly out or out of gas, and I've added all of 5 gallons.  Drop a little gas down the carb and she runs till it's gone, and then she dies.  Is it possible I don't have enough gas in the tank to cover the fuel pickup on the tank since she's pointing uphill?
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Post by: Guests on December 20, 2011, 04:40:07 PM
No, five gallons on a slight uphill should work, more than likely the needle for the float is stuck in the closed position.  You can fill the carb through the air vent and maybe a little gas on it will break it loose, or, remove the top and make sure the needle moves up and down. Gotta pull the pin for the float to get to the needle, but if you fill the carb with fuel through the vent at least you would be able to see if the accelerator pump will squirt fuel. Have you checked the fuel getting to the carb by removing the fuel line right at the carb and turn her over to see if fuel will pump into a GLASS jar or bottle? That first will verify it isn't the fuel pump.
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Post by: Steve on December 20, 2011, 04:56:20 PM


It does take a while to pump gas up from an empty tank.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 20, 2011, 05:37:03 PM
Could it have lost a fuel pump just because it sat?  How do I get it to run longer?  All I get is 5 or 6 seconds and she dies.  Then when I crank again she tries to start but won't quite do it.  Not until I add more gas.....  Guess I need to break a line loose and see if it's pumping.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 20, 2011, 05:39:15 PM
Was also thinking about getting help, and turning the car around so the fuel is running down hill....I'd say I spilled about half a gallon of fuel trying to fill it with a 5 gallon can, and then *might* have gotten another 1.5 gallons into it.  It's parked on a pretty good incline.
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Post by: azblackhemi on December 20, 2011, 06:45:31 PM
If it were me I'd try running it off a remote tank. Pull the fuel line off the intake side of the fuel pump and attach a hose into a gas can full of cas and see if it keeps running. If it runs you either have a clogged pickup tube or rubber fuel line between the tank and fuel pump has a hole in it and it's sucking air instead of fuel.
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Post by: Steve on December 20, 2011, 07:05:13 PM


Dave just keep pouring a small amount of gas in the carb while it's running.  You can use an oil can if you'd like and squirt the gas in
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Post by: Guests on December 20, 2011, 09:04:06 PM
Pull the line off the inlet side of the fuel pump and attach a longer hose to it to start with so you can blow into it and hear bubbles, proves the line isn't plugged, then suck just a little bit to verify it is pulling (don't have to get it all the way to your mouth, just that there is suction). The usual checking for leaks in the rubber hoses, move them around, see if they turn wet. My 6pac if it sat several months at a time, the float would stick, so I would tap it, then the last time before I brought her home from storage, the needle stuck shut, which caught me as funny, ten times blowing gas all over the place, final time it won't let gas into the bowl, go figure.
 
Since she does run, at least you know it is just a matter of getting the fuel to the carb as a problem so it is pretty narrowed down at what to look at.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 21, 2011, 03:43:46 AM
I'm just hoping it's not the pickup tube.....
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 21, 2011, 04:10:59 AM
Pop quiz, what size fuel line?  Going to parts store and get a length of it and a funnel.
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Post by: Steve on December 21, 2011, 07:21:15 AM


5/16
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Post by: Guests on December 21, 2011, 07:59:07 AM
Quick check the line being plugged first, just blow through it to hear bubbles in the tank, verify the pump is sucking/pumping fuel, go from there.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 21, 2011, 03:52:25 PM
Todays battle ended in a draw.  She started on her own gas finally, after I added another 6 gallons, and then after running a few seconds began barfing gas out the vent tube, and this little port at the front of the carb that's covered with a little rubber flapper.  Carb's dead isn't it?
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Post by: Guests on December 21, 2011, 04:10:56 PM
Not necessarily. The vent tube and the anti-vapor lock rubber gasketed vent, 99.9perent chance is the needle valve is stuck, first closed, now open. Pull the top of the carb off, which is easy, check the float which should be brass (don't touch with your bare fingers if it is the phenolic black one, finger oils will make them sink faster). Pull the float off, pull the needle out, verify it moves freely by itself (the needle in its brass housing, rubber tip intact, all that stuff). From there, verify the float does float in gas or water (they will dry off easily enough), then reattach the float, needle and pin, and simply turn the top over so the float is on top. The seam should be even with the gasket surface, the top of the float should not touch the inside of the cover, a quarter of an inch would be a safe gap between the two, and reinstall. I bet, since she did start on her own, the needle stuck and then gas simply poured in without being able to have the float get past whatever stiffness is within that needle. Since she has flooded this way, the gasket should be good  enough to not rip, and it will at least get you home safely.dana442011-12-21 21:12:54
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Post by: Steve on December 21, 2011, 05:42:12 PM




Oh yeah. . .Come armed with a can or 2+2 carb cleaner or a real good one.  Seek out the best.  When you get the the float working right, shoot some carb cleaner down the vent

POLARACO2011-12-21 22:46:11
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 21, 2011, 05:51:03 PM
Ok, just to be sure, the vent is in the center of the carb, near the air cleaner stud, correct?
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 21, 2011, 05:57:20 PM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARTER-6134-2-BARREL-CARB-68-70-CHRYSLER-DODGE-PLYMOUTH-383-NEW-OEM-/320726786652 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARTER-6134-2-BARREL-CARB-68-70-CHRYSLER-DODGE-PLYMOUTH-383-NEW-OEM-/320726786652)

My carb, exactly.carrman2011-12-21 23:17:20
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 21, 2011, 06:37:50 PM
Fom what I can tell, it's a Carter BBD.  I should have read the carb tag.  I always did have a problem with the car before I sold it.  In the summer, after it sat about 4 hours in the heat, it wouldn't start to save it's life.  Finally after cranking on it repeatedly, it would start.  Perhaps this carb needs rebuilt?  If so, I'm a bit sunk, this is something I've never gotten into. 
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Post by: Steve on December 21, 2011, 07:54:34 PM



If you can find a heat shield for the carb, that helps too.
POLARACO2011-12-22 00:56:27
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 21, 2011, 07:57:56 PM
What's the little rubber flapper up front for?
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Post by: Guests on December 21, 2011, 08:20:58 PM
What it does is allows the gas in the bowl to vent when it is bubbling during vaporlock conditions, but sealed so things can't get in with the throttle closed, so it is just a vent or purge, no big deal. They can be plugged or fixed to seal constant, which is what I did with my 6pac setup.  The fact fuel came out it and the vent tube is too much fuel, sunk float, or stuck/sticking fuel level needle, or sticking higher than capable fuel pressure, which I doubt is the problem with a stock fuel pump, just doesn't happen.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 22, 2011, 04:02:50 PM
Carb kit ordered, I'll spend some time Christmas Eve removing it and bringing home to rebuild.
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Post by: Steve on December 22, 2011, 07:26:27 PM


I'm going back out to the shop shortly to check on that carb Dave
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 23, 2011, 11:35:53 AM
Ok, the Newport wins this round also, but I gained ground!  We no longer barf gas all over hell, but, she doesn't like starting much at all, and when she finally does, she runs really well for 5-10 seconds, and then acts like she's out of fuel.  I thinking the fuel bowl isn't filling all the time, and she dies when she empties it.  Perhaps the carb's acting up, or the fuel pump, or maybe it just needs a fuel filter.  Opinions?
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 23, 2011, 03:38:45 PM
It lives!  Film at 11.
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Post by: azblackhemi on December 23, 2011, 04:18:30 PM
(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley24.gif) I'm waiting!
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Post by: Steve on December 23, 2011, 05:04:56 PM


Take the needle and seat out and wash it with carb cleaner
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 23, 2011, 08:34:34 PM
Ok, we started running on the gas in the tank, but only for about 10 seconds or so at a time.  I figured the fuel bowl was filling slowly and the running out.  After fighting this for a while, I decided to pop in a fresh fuel filter, but that made no change.  My boss then came over and heard the car and then decided we'd pour some more gas in the carb.  It of course ran it out and died.  It kept trying to fire, and he felt it was smelling rich.  He then got in and began cranking, all the while madly pumping the throttle pedal.  He was able to keep it running for a few minutes, the when it died got it going again right away, and after a  few minutes more she stayed running.  He kept his foot on the gas for about another 5 minutes and then let off, and it went to a really civilized idle.  We let it run and get fully warmed up, but we noticed that if you are to aggressive with the throttle she gasps for fuel.  My boss said the accelerator pump is either stuck, or bad from the bad gas.  It's kinda driveable as is to get it home, but that dead battery makes it a moot point for now, because if it dies while driving, it's not restarting.    So, I'm going over to it tomorrow and strating it, and giving it some shots of Berryman carb cleaner to see if the accel pump will unstick, otherwise the carb overhaul kit is in my posession now.  But, it runs, and I was able to run it up and down the driveway at my work, felt it shift into 2nd and 3rd, and all felt right with the world.  I backed it back into the parking place for easier access than when it was turned around, and shurt her down.
 
 
 
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 24, 2011, 03:18:22 PM
Well it starts with a lot less effort now, but the big dead spot remains when giving it gas.  Carb rebuild time.
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Post by: Steve on December 24, 2011, 05:03:16 PM


Kudos to your boss for being aggressive with it.  Don't be afraid of doing that stuff.  You can't hurt. . . . . .  . much.  LOL 
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 24, 2011, 05:07:59 PM
My boss used to have his own classic car restoration shop, and he's a Mopar man.  Took me for a ride in his new 392 Hemi Challenger.....  Pinned my ears back!  He's  not a C-body guy, but recognizes the Newport for what it is, and it's somewhat rare nature.  Would you believe it's only got 63,000 on it?
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Post by: Guests on December 26, 2011, 02:02:31 PM
Glad to hear she is goind better, and yes, there are two types of accelerator pumps. One is rubber, like a wheel cyinder plunger, the other is leather. Hard to say which one is inside, but they do take a bit to get unstuck when they shrink up. As Steve said, hard to hurt anything as long as they have oil really. Once the warm up, water at a minimum to cool it. Glad to hear she shifts.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 26, 2011, 08:03:17 PM
Needs a battery to bring it home.  Not tring to drive it without a new one, because if it stalls it's not restarting, and I know it's going to stall a few times on the way home.  After the battery, trans seal needs replaced, and radiator need serviced.  Then off it goes for new dual exhaust.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 27, 2011, 03:31:03 PM
Well it decided for me tonight it's not coming home under it's own power until I deal with the carb.  Just won't stay running long enough.
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Post by: Steve on December 27, 2011, 08:02:29 PM


Bummer
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 27, 2011, 10:11:40 PM
Never let a car sit.........  Not for 2 and a half years.
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Post by: Guests on December 28, 2011, 08:39:10 AM
Doesn't matter how long they sit or don't sit, things happen. Diagnose and fix/repair as necessary, bring her back to life. She already runs and goes up and down the road so a carb problem is a couple hours rebuild/fix, then on to the other priorities, like dual exhaust.
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Post by: Steve on December 28, 2011, 09:43:32 AM


They make these things with cables, big flat places and big tires on them for moving Old cars.  They're usually driven by a redneck with a beard and missing teeth. (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 28, 2011, 01:03:43 PM

Quote from: POLARACO

But that's admitting defeat!!!!  And yes, I am priorotizing what needs to be done, and believe me, the dual exhaust isn't a priority.  It comes after it runs consistantly and reliably, and the trans and radiator leaks are squared away.  Then the fun things can be done to it.
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Post by: Steve on December 28, 2011, 02:01:35 PM


try closing the choke part way and see if the engine RPM goes up ot stabilizes.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 30, 2011, 11:13:53 AM
I drove it home.  I've got a bad distributor cap.  Seems the coil wire contact inside the cap is stuck, and nearly flush with the cap.  I bent the rotor contact up to touch it, and it started.  Surged and had flat spots in acceleration, but it ran well enough to cruise home at 60.....
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on December 30, 2011, 12:54:55 PM
Well maybe not, new distributor caps are the same way.  I don't under stand why messing with the rotor made it run, but it did.  Now it's hoome, and isn't starting again...... Sigh.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 14, 2012, 02:19:24 PM
Carbs apart, bowl is filled with a greenish crusty residue, main check ball was stuck, brass valve that the float controls is sticky, and all this crusty stuff is on the bottom of the floats!
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Post by: Guests on January 14, 2012, 03:11:15 PM
Yep, part of the reason why I said to pull the top off and take a look, check the float level in the beginning, would have found it and she would have at least forced to you take the carb off and clean it before driving home.  Hard to say what the green gunk is, brass will do it, but moisture and moss formation in a dark and dank place may be what it really is.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 14, 2012, 03:51:36 PM
How do I clean the jets out?
 
 
 
Dave
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Post by: Guests on January 14, 2012, 06:09:29 PM
Take a screwdriver to them to unscrew them, use a plastic stick and carb cleaner to it. Spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner with the straw through the hole until you see fluid coming out of the other side, then stick the straw through the jet hole and watch the barb/brake cleaner come out another location in the carb to ensure it is clear. The plastic stick should not alter the size of the hole and not scratch the brass.
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Post by: Steve on January 14, 2012, 07:07:53 PM


That green stuff is algae.  Years ago that would be brown.  Now we have methanol to deal with.  Completely disassembe the carb, soak it in some solvents.  You can get a gallon of Laquar thinner at Lowes.  Then soak it in lemon juice to make it look factory new.  Wash and blow out when done.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 14, 2012, 07:40:04 PM
Friendly machine shop who rents shop space from my employer offered to clean out carb body for me for free, they said they have the stuff to do it.  Jets are out, one deformed slightly in the screwdriver slot.  That going to hurt anything? carrman2012-01-15 00:40:43
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Post by: Steve on January 14, 2012, 08:06:54 PM


Can you snap a pic?
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Post by: Guests on January 14, 2012, 08:32:07 PM
As long as the hole isn't damaged it won't hurt a thing, that part doesn't control flow and your speed/volume isn't fast enough to matter.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 14, 2012, 09:21:04 PM
Yeah, I can snap one.
 
(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC06008.jpg)
 
(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC06005.jpg)
 
(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC06004.jpg)
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Post by: Guests on January 15, 2012, 08:34:49 AM
Cool pictures. The bottom picture, see that stainless piece with the two rods hanging off of them and disappear in a couple little brass pieces (I believe they are hex headed), need to be pulled off and apart and out, so, the brass stuff, try putting it is a little bowl of vinegar for 20 minutes and then wash off. It works really well with copper, these are brass, but the vinegar won't hurt them. Your jet tops are just fine, they are definitely not messed up at all. Otherwise carb or brake cleaner in a spray can (they are the same stuff, don't let anyone tell you they are different by enough to cause a problem, brake stuff is usually cheaper in a can), laquer thinner is very good, and if by some rare chance you find a Dupont store and can find a gallon of 3924S Gun and Equipment cleaner, this is the best most superior stuff that leaves no residue whatsoever, but it is pretty volatile, and a little rough on the hands if you use it too much, pulls all the oils out of your hands, but it sure does clean parts well. Tends to evaporate kind of fast, kind of like ether, good for transmissions, carbs, small motors and things that need good cleanings.
As far as cleaning the inside, nylon brush so as not to disturb any anodizing on the inside, if there is any.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 15, 2012, 09:39:18 AM
I'm taking the large parts of the carb to an automotive machine shop for clean out tomorrow.  All the little brass pieces have been soaked in a small bottle of carb cleaner, and cleaned up with some 4 ought steel wool.  Not very aggessevely mind you, but enough to make them shony and smooth after removing the gunk.  I'm debating on where or not I want the venturi cluster to be boiled out or not.  It's looks really decent already, so I'm leaning toward not.
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Post by: Guests on January 15, 2012, 10:09:28 AM
If the parts come apart, take them apart, you can't psychically tell what is inside them, so why chance it? I am actually talking about the front side of the venturii themselves, there is a stainless bracket with a screw to the upper left side that holds a barrel valve with a spring underneath it, possibly a check ball, then the two rods and those brass needle jets, the level of them has the crud line above where the needles go into the two jets, so again, who knows what is inside that could plug something up. The more chemicals flowing through drilled passages the size of pencil lead the better, I never trust them whether or not I think they are OK, it doesn't take any extra parts to do it, but it will make you feel better that a hole with a needle sticking in it to control a certain amount of fuel going in, cleanliness is next to godliness, right?
 
Steel wool to clean things off is fine, small brass wire or nylon toothbrush is good, too.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 15, 2012, 10:39:21 AM
What I'm talking about is this:
 
(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC06009.jpg)
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 15, 2012, 10:55:06 AM
Someone mentioned cleanliness?

(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC06010.jpg)
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Post by: Guests on January 15, 2012, 10:59:10 AM
Look at the three pictures you posted on the previous page, the bottom one shows the venturii (above picture) and in front of it is a stainless steel batwing with a black screw in the top left corner of it, and at the end of the batwings are two needles that go through brass needle jets (smaller than stock main jets). Under the center of the batwings is a barrel valve, a spring and possibly a checkvalve. This valve is vacuum operated and needs to be cleaned, the accelerator pump is forward of it in the picture (the big hole in front of it).  Undo the screw holding the stainless steel batwing and the two needles going from the wings to the bottom of the fuel bowl, then remove those two jets there, they are hex headed.


 
dana442012-01-15 16:00:20
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 15, 2012, 11:16:02 AM
Jets are out I believe, the ones I used the screwdriver on right?
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Post by: Guests on January 15, 2012, 11:30:28 AM
Those two long needles you show in your last picture are also in two brass metering jets. They don't have a screwdriver slot on them, they take a small socket to remove because they are hex headed.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 15, 2012, 11:42:09 AM
They ran in the two jets I unscrewed and took a picture of.
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Post by: Guests on January 15, 2012, 11:56:34 AM
Quote from: carrman
Yeah, I can snap one.
 
 
 
 
 

The two metering needles in this picture are in brass metering jets, so remove them, too.
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 15, 2012, 12:01:54 PM
I did.
(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC06008.jpg)
 
 
Those are the jets that screwed into the bowl that the needles went in and out of.
 
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Post by: Guests on January 15, 2012, 12:06:19 PM
Oh, OK, my bad, I thought here were metered jets for acceleration and idle, and main jets, too. OK, I had the pictures mixed up with content pulled out. Good job, dumb me.(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley7.gif)
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 15, 2012, 12:15:13 PM
Nope, 2 jets do it all.  Pretty simple carb, I think, but I'm worried about making it run again after I put it back together.  I hated having to remove the two mixture screws.carrman2012-01-15 17:21:07
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Post by: Steve on January 15, 2012, 01:34:00 PM


The venturi cap has a couple of tiny orifices in them.  Make sure they are open
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Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 15, 2012, 01:48:10 PM
I have some jewelers fiels I can use to do that, and I made sure those venturi cap vents are open.
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Post by: Guests on January 15, 2012, 03:54:52 PM
When you reassemble, given it is the stock carb for the engine (I assume), take the two needles and gently take them in until they bottom out. Don't want to crank them down tight, just touch, then for starters, turn each of them out two full turns. This will be a little bit rich, but get her running and purring before adjusting the needles, which usually stay right around 1.5 to 1.75 turns out. I really don't consider that much of a problem, and since the two metering rods can be identified as being in the carb instead of in the carb top, that is a difficult one when you only have quarter inch to look at some of them.
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on January 15, 2012, 04:31:01 PM


Atta Boy!  Proud of ya son.  (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)   (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley9.gif)
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 15, 2012, 04:50:21 PM
Yup, it's the stock carb.  One thing I did notice I don't like is a bit of play in the throttle shaft,  I know that will make a vacuum leak.  I'd probably be better off buying a new Eddy than having somoene try and rebush that shaft I reckon.  The BBD will have to do for now.
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on January 15, 2012, 06:09:12 PM



They all had some slop.  They don't leak enough to matter that much
POLARACO2012-01-15 23:09:42
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 15, 2012, 06:18:45 PM
It's maybe a 32nd of an inch, but I can see light through it when it's to one side.  I'll talk to the shop tomorrow about it.   Trying to convince myself I want a 4 barrel, but can't let go of the BBD if it's a viable item!  I'm too damn cheap to give up on a usuable part!carrman2012-01-15 23:20:06
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 15, 2012, 06:21:12 PM
By the way Ed and Steve, you guys have been invaluable with this, thanks.  I know I'm asking basic, stupid questions, but you both have been real troopers about it.  Thank you.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 15, 2012, 06:46:43 PM
Thanks for letting us help. Don't worry too much about the throttle play, she already proved she could run and get you home in this condition, it just means you adjust the idle a little less because air is being sucked in there instead of the venturii itself, and maybe adjust the main jets a little bit to get the fuel/air ratio where it belongs. A strong enough throttle return spring will keep it from being an issue.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 17, 2012, 06:38:20 PM
Carbs back from the machine shop, cleaned out really nicely.  I'll start reassembling tomorrow.  Still contemplating about bushing that throttle shaft, yeah I know I don't need to, but for 35 bucks, I'd feel a lot better about it.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 17, 2012, 07:08:26 PM
No problem, if you have a place that will do it for what sounds like a reasonable price, it isn't a bad thing to do.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 17, 2012, 08:02:29 PM
Rogue Valley Carburetion.  35 bucks out the door since I have the carb apart.
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on January 17, 2012, 08:28:31 PM

Quote from: carrman
By the way Ed and Steve, you guys have been invaluable with this, thanks.  I know I'm asking basic, stupid questions, but you both have been real troopers about it.  Thank you.
I know it's only 35 bucks, but I would run it first to be sure the card survived.  Just smear sone vasoline on the base plates gaskets so they will come off easy.  Then get it bushed.  I hate to see good money put into bad.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 18, 2012, 04:41:47 PM
I do have to say, my carb is in great shape now it's totally cleaned out, and all the gasket surfraces are cleaned.  Just have to decide if I want to use the fiber manifold to carb gasket, or buy one of the metallic ones that was on there when I took the carb off.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 18, 2012, 06:09:54 PM
Go with the fiber one, it may be a phenolic material that is a good heat sink to prevent carb boiling.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 18, 2012, 06:29:26 PM
There were two in the kit; a thick one and a thin one.
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on January 18, 2012, 06:39:18 PM


I would use the thick one
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 19, 2012, 06:46:17 PM
Well it's assembled, yet somehow I lost a damn carb screw........
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 26, 2012, 03:59:57 PM
It liiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiives!  Idles just a tad rough, just threw 6 gallons of gas in it and the gauge didn't move.....  But, it runs and runs out well.  I need a vac gauge so I can tune that carb right....  And I need to learn how to use it. 
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on January 26, 2012, 04:09:40 PM


That sucks the crap out of those tiny holes.  May have gotten a piece stuck in one
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on January 26, 2012, 04:10:11 PM


If that isn't it, it may need a good tune up
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 26, 2012, 04:24:11 PM
It doesn't idle rough enough to make the engine shake, I can just hear it in the tailpipe.  It has a new cap and rotor, I'm wondering of the might be minor plug fouling from the "turpentine" that was in the tank.  I tuned this car just before I sold it.  Not even a 1000 miles one those plugs.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 26, 2012, 07:59:23 PM
Good to hear all. Hey, she may just need to be run and warm up real good, push the throttle a few times on the road and take the rpm up and make her shift hard. Hey, she's been in hybernation for quite a while.
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on January 26, 2012, 10:24:40 PM


what do you mean it won't move?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 27, 2012, 03:08:12 AM
The gas gauge just went to just above the E, no more.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 27, 2012, 04:20:24 AM


Ok, started it this mornign below freezing, she didn't want to light off.   Saw that the chocke plate wasn't totally closing, but then I don't know if it should.  Gave her just a tiny shot of ether, and she lit off.  Had to hold my foot on the gas for a couple minutes, and then the fast idle took over until it warmed up.  What'd I do wrong?
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 27, 2012, 05:56:37 AM
Nothing, it was cold, and the choke needs to be adjusted, that's all.
 
Gotta do it with the engine cooled off so the auto choke counterweight balances itself and sets, so when she is cooled off, tap the gas pedal and then look at it, see if it adjusts to the point it is supposed to, the clearance should be located in the book or in your rebuild directions, adjust the choke screw so it catches the step on the counterweight and bend the rod to ensure it closes where it is supposed to be. After the warmup, tap the gas and it should let off the counterweight and open the butterfly automatically. Use a drill bit to measure the clearance it needs on the choke butterfly clearance.
 
One other item it could also be, given it was cold, is points, coil, condenser, distributor cap, sparkplug wires, all things that seem to run just a little weaker when cold and wet.
 
I never have a problem after I port a set of heads and intake, and they do fine without a choke, even at 12 degrees overnight, which was greatly tested the four days it was below freezing once in Washington State. I actually remove the butterfly so as not to choke the engine, just tap the gas twice, hit the starter and away I go. I did let her, for the first time, warm up about five minutes before leaving, something I never do, usually about fifteen seconds when I am fiddling around.
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on January 27, 2012, 10:46:44 AM


There is an adjustment in the bottom of the choke stat.  You have to take it out to make the adjustment.  As Ed said, do it when cold.  But that should be a last resort.  Means the bimetal spring is getting tired.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 27, 2012, 02:20:56 PM
Will check it tomorrow during daylight.  Carbs doing ok, but I had to screw out the mixture screws about 5 turns to get a good idle.  I need to get a better throttle return spring; this one broke once and seems weak.  Throttle shaft bushings I had installed leak vacuum just a bit still, I squirted them with carb cleaner and the idle sped up just a tad.  Overall, I'm happy with how it runs, just the whole cold start thing is a pisser.  What should my idle speed in park be warmed up? carrman2012-01-27 19:22:09
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on January 27, 2012, 06:59:56 PM



Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 28, 2012, 10:15:38 AM
Well I adjusted the choke flapper; I still have no cold start!!!!  I know she cranks kinda slow when cold, but really it should be starting.  She shoots fuel out of the jets really weel when you pump the pedal, so I know she's getting gas.  I have to be doing something wrong.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 28, 2012, 11:06:22 AM
Just did a PM. You can answer it here if you wish.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 28, 2012, 11:15:52 AM

Ok, she's got Mopar electronic ignition, battery is brand new.  Choke flapper is adjusted correctly.  Coil is a Pertronix coil I installed a few years ago.  I noticed the spark is pretty yellow looking when I crank with the coil wire pulled.  Fast idle works very well, once you get it started.  I had float level suggested to me, but I don't think I'd get such nice jets of fuel when I pump the gas pedal if the bowl was the wrong level.  Plugs, wires are less than a thousand miles old, cap and rotor were replaced last month.  I did just pump the pedal twice when I cranked that first time, but all she did was try to start but didn't.  When I does finally light off, you have to pump the pedal to keep it alive for the fast idle to kick on.
carrman2012-01-28 16:16:24
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 28, 2012, 12:39:37 PM
When cold, the fast idle should be set automatically. The pie shaped counterweight piece, when you hit the gas pedal, should automatically make the little steps on the side of it catch the throttle a small amount and close the butterfly to set everything.  If this doesn't happen, it needs adjusting. Gotta do this with the engine cold to ensure the system is working properly. Pull the air cleaner to see it clearly, hit the throttle with your hand while watching the pie shaped high idle adjustment and make sure it is allowing the pie piece to drop and the screw catch on one of the notches to close the choke and hold without touching the throttle any more.


Going back, hitting the throttle gives two cold squirts so there is enough initial fuel when cold, the choke doing everything else should be enough to start.
Now, there is an adjustment screw on the pie shape that can be adjusted, or it is a tab that catches the pie shape, but if it doesn't catch and hold cold, readjust to make it happen. When cold and not started, you should be able to mess and fiddle with it several times by undoing the choke, gently hit the gas and watch it set properly, take it off, check it again. If the bimetal spring for the choke on the manifold doesn't pull it hard enough, bend the rod to get it to move, adjust the wire to the choke butterfly to make it close enough, adjust the screw to the high idle on the pie shape if there is one to adjust the idle speed itself. Undo the choke, hit the gas pedal, make sure it sets properly. They can be a tiny touchy to get set correctly, a little trial and error sounds like it is in order.  Post a picture of the choke side of the carb and I might be able to explain a few things that aren't completely clear, there are a couple designs and don't want to get you too confused. haha.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 28, 2012, 03:15:55 PM
(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC06021.jpg)

(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC06020.jpg)
(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC06019.jpg)
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 28, 2012, 07:53:38 PM
Quote from: carrman
(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC06021.jpg)

 

See the big screw? Now see the long screw at about two o'clock?  That brass and cork piece or whatever it is, is catching the mechanism and keeping it from rotating so it hits the cast aluminum tab and allowing the shorter of the two screws at the 3o'clock position for the high idle to catch the little notches. It looks as if the shorter of the two screws is also turned in too far so it won't allow the choke idle cam from being able to rotate properly, too.
Start with that.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 28, 2012, 08:18:22 PM
I'll bend that tab before I try and start it again in the mornign.  I want it good and cold before I try and start again.  The shorter screw is the fast idle screw, I'll look at it again tomorrow, but the fast idle cam didn't seem to have a problem with it.  What I will do is tap the pedal twice, then go look at the idle cam and see where it lies before I attempt to start it.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 29, 2012, 09:41:12 AM
Ok, it wasn't freezing when I got out there, but she sat fir over 12 hours and it froze last night.  I bent the tab back but it wasn't fouling either.  I pumped the throttle twice, and saw the fast idle cam went into position.  Hit the key, and she tried starting.  Only briefly thoguh.  I pumped a nother couple times, and she fluttered but didn't catch.  I had to pump repeatedly as I cranked, and then she lit off.  Played with the throttle a tiny bit more and let the fast idle cam move back into position.  So, she's only going to start while th accel pump is splashing gas in there it seems.  Ideas?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 29, 2012, 10:03:28 AM
One other thing, I feel a very light surge going down the road under cruising conditions, yet she snaps my neck back if I punch the throttle....
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 29, 2012, 10:06:30 AM
So the cam moves up and allows the choke to close, the fast idle screw, how is the idle after she starts? Is it high enough or too high? Too low an idle? Is the vacuum canister vacuum sucking the choke closed all the way? If the choke cam doesn't allow the choke to close all the way, or only the amount the picture shows then it isn't enough, so adjust by bending the rod a little different. The couple pumps sets the high idle and choke, the vacuum canister pulls it tight the rest of the way and pulls fuel so you don't have to keep pumping the gas before she starts. Does the heat riser spring close the choke, too? And does it pull it off when warmed up?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 29, 2012, 12:02:10 PM
Heat riser spring doesn't close the choke as much as I think it should, but there is no adjustment to get it to pull it closed more.  Heat riser and vacuum pot do their job it seems.  The picture shows the choke after it warmed up some outside. carrman2012-01-29 17:08:03
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 29, 2012, 12:06:58 PM
One other thing, I have no tach to know how much my ldle speeds are.  I'm doing it by ear.  Both fast, medium fast, and regular idle speeds seem good.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 29, 2012, 12:43:14 PM
OK, so at this point it just seems the choke isn't able to close enough to suck gas as needed once the choke mechanism functions properly. Now, on second thought, I think the vacuum canister pulls off the choke vice tightens it, so the engine can breathe when the rpm increases and starts, but at the same time the heat riser part and the fast idle cam has to set itself correctly to properly choke enough. I think it is in the fine tuning now that the choke cam is able to fall where it is supposed to.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 29, 2012, 01:58:25 PM
Just realized something, my choke thermostat isn't closing as much as it should because I used a thicker carb to manifold gasket.  I shimmed up the thermostat with 2 washers.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 29, 2012, 02:08:28 PM
That might help a ton, if the rod itself couldn't be extended any, which I don't think it can be, they are pretty straight.
Does the choke almost close completely now? When the pedal is hit, the butterfly should almost close completely from the choke spring, then by pushing the vacuum canister thingy, it should move against the stop on the high speed choke setter slots so it won't open all the way, and the high speed choke cam/rod should allow the slot to allow the butterfly to close almost all the way (so it rests on the bottom of the slot and leaves a gap of about 16th of an inch, but opens to allow about 3/4 of an inch until it pulls off completely from the choke heat riser spring.
I guess we wait until morning for the result now
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 29, 2012, 02:59:07 PM
I shimmed it and it seems to nearly close the flapper,  leaving only a small gap.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 29, 2012, 03:02:09 PM
Cold start test again in the morning.  I noticed when it's warmed up at all, it takes virtually no effort to start it.  Bump the key and it runs.  I also noticed some fuel staining from one of the front carb lid screws.    It's not loose at all, dunno why.  I'm watching it.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 29, 2012, 03:04:17 PM
An indication the float is too high, need to lower it a tad, may be a little bit of a problem, not enough air, which would be why the pumping, actually to get air in, not more fuel.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 29, 2012, 03:15:45 PM
And here I was thinking I was a little low.  Thought that was causing the light surging at cruise.
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on January 29, 2012, 03:35:33 PM


I completely forgot about that thick gasket.  That's what's wrong
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on January 29, 2012, 03:36:20 PM

Quote from: carrman
And here I was thinking I was a little low.  Thought that was causing the light surging at cruise.
Float level is a tad low
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 29, 2012, 03:56:08 PM
I shimmed the thermostat up, do I need to remove that thick gasket still?  Also, why am I weeping fuel from that front screw?
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 29, 2012, 04:31:01 PM
It would be weeping because it is too high. It is shutting off the fuel before it overflows, or maybe the float is hitting the top of the carb, so take the top off, and bend the tab to hit the fuel line needle a little earlier. I think you can shim the heat riser just as well as changing the gasket, but the gasket will help vapor lock.  No stretching the heat riser rod any to make it easier to adjust?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 29, 2012, 05:56:05 PM
No, that heat riser is stretched as much as it will go.  That carb was known for heat issues when I owned it before, so I'd prefer to leave the gasket in place.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 29, 2012, 07:08:12 PM
A couple flat washers under the heat riser, I think it will still function without a problem, or cut a thick gasket to fit under it to close the sides, kind of a lip around the whole thing to keep the heat in.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 30, 2012, 05:28:52 AM
Well, 34 degrees out side, two pumps of the pedela and the choke flapper almost closes.  Hit the key, she coughs and sputters.  Two more pumps, hit the key she starts and fast idle kicks in and she begins to warm up.  I just need a below freezing morning to verify everything, and I'll be good!
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 30, 2012, 05:54:44 AM
OK, sounds pretty good.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 30, 2012, 07:57:55 AM


Found source of fuel leak, seems I need to put teflon tape on fittings going into carb.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 30, 2012, 08:38:25 AM
Ahhh, so it isn't a screw, it is actually elsewhere, right?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 30, 2012, 09:18:28 AM


Yes sir, I caught the weeping pattern after I cleaned off the carb, and was able to generate a minor drip from there.  Screws are good.
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on January 30, 2012, 02:10:24 PM

Quote from: carrman

Found source of fuel leak, seems I need to put teflon tape on fittings going into carb.
There's supposed to be a fiber washer that goes behind the needle housing
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 30, 2012, 03:24:56 PM


It's there.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 30, 2012, 06:11:36 PM
So, for my last request.....  The mild surging problem that has me scratching the noggin.  Then tonight, I floored it hard, went through the gears(chirped into 3rd!), and she surged a few times kinda hard, and then cleared up.  She runs like a striped ass ape, but that surging....  Oh yeah, the inop fuel gauge bugs me too.  It worked when I sold it.....
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 30, 2012, 06:41:35 PM
So it may have been something in one of the tiny passages that got cleared out, or something like a sticking counterweight in the distributor, or the float level too high or too low still. Give it a little time and see what she does.

The gas gauge, to figure out if it is the gauge or the sending unit, have someone turn on the key and watch it, then ground the wire at the sending unit to see if the needle moves quickly, don't hold it very long, couple seconds tops. That's the only way I know how to narrow down gauge or sending unit.
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on January 30, 2012, 08:04:56 PM


The fuel weeping from the needle seat fitting is what's bothering me.  Makes me think the float may be a tad too high
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 30, 2012, 08:05:43 PM
So, time to lift the lid and lower the level a tad?
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on January 30, 2012, 08:13:49 PM


When you measured the float, did you use the point furthest from the pivot?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 31, 2012, 02:50:49 AM
Yes I did.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 31, 2012, 06:19:17 AM
I agree, it can't hurt anything, the surges may actually be just too much fuel dribbling in, after everything else being tweaked, it sure would be worth the effort.
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on January 31, 2012, 06:42:29 PM


The other thing is the fact that it runs like you say it does.  I never heard a 2 BBL 383 cherping them on 3rd
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on January 31, 2012, 07:46:23 PM
She runs damn hard Steve, she always has.  I'm almost afraid of what she'd do with a four barrell and dual exhaust!  I'll futz with float level this weekend.   I wwonder sometimes what kind of goodies were put in when she was rebuilt.carrman2012-02-01 00:50:03
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on January 31, 2012, 09:01:30 PM
I got a '64 361 that was the same way, stock from the factory, came in a Custom 880 2door originally, could peg an 8grand tach all day long and she was a 2bbl, too.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 03, 2012, 04:25:10 AM


Tomorrow, I'm getting up early while it's frozen outside for a test start to verify cold start is fully functional....
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 03, 2012, 06:22:51 AM
OOOOo. waiting with baited breath!!!!!
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on February 03, 2012, 12:05:13 PM


Maybe it's the rear ratio
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 03, 2012, 12:52:20 PM
A rear end ratio doesn't let an engine rev to redline easily, especially with a 2bbl.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 03, 2012, 04:45:08 PM
Hmm, willl the fender tag give me a gear ratio?
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on February 03, 2012, 04:45:11 PM

Quote from: dana44
A rear end ratio doesn't let an engine rev to redline easily, especially with a 2bbl.
Huh?  If it's lower than stock it will
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 03, 2012, 08:38:29 PM
Last time I had an engine on a stand and no rear end or transmission on the engine, or like sitting in park, the rear end ratio had absolutely nothing to do with an engine being able to rev to redline, or actually peg an 8 grand tach easily.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 04, 2012, 06:46:06 AM
No joy, 32 degrees and no start.......
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 04, 2012, 07:27:19 AM
Aaaaaaaaand when she's being pushed REALLY hard, like flooring it at 70, she surges really bad.  Let off the throttle a little bit, and she recovers.  Floor it and the surging comes back.  Normal driving she runs great, starts perfectly when warm.  What am I overlooking?  We beat the hell out of the starter when we were trying to get it running, to the point smoke was rolling off of it.  Is it possible the starter turns too slow when cold?  What color should the spark be?
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 04, 2012, 08:36:13 AM
Yellow to white, blue is OK, too. Without konwing the fuel/air ratios, it could be lean or rich, where did the idle screws end up being? Around 1.5-2.0 turns out? Fuel level too high could be surging back, also. Did you recheck the float level after she got running? Pretty tough starters overall, but it might be time to take her apart and at least clean her up, check the brushes, make sure she isn't scraping the magnets, light grease of the end bearings/bushings, things like that.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 04, 2012, 01:32:55 PM
Idle screws are 5 turns out.....
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 04, 2012, 02:11:37 PM
that's too much. How is the PCV valve? Check for vacuum leaks, also. Like I said, two turns out max indicates things are OK, but for the life of me I can't remember if they are air or fuel bleeds, I think air, which would be a float being too high and air needed to compensate.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 04, 2012, 02:18:45 PM
Went out for a test drive, and she nearly came home on a wrecker.  Floored it and she started gasping and sputtering...  Light to medium throttle was ok, but put your foot in it and she's gasping for life, bucking and snorting.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 04, 2012, 02:39:53 PM
What's up with the distributor? Is the vacuum advance adjustable, maybe a vacuum leak at the canister?
 
Here's one thing that I have seen before. The two needles that stick down into the jets, one of them was out of the jet itself and would kind of act this way. Any possiblity? It would explain the five turns out, needing more air. She would still run and all, but since the adjustments are done for a richer condition right off the bat, full throttle makes her lean because the air bleeds are already open to compensate for too much fuel, then full throttle gives too much air. Probably haven't driven her enough to know if she is getting good or bad mileage I bet.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 04, 2012, 03:33:03 PM
Nope, needles in their proper place, and was so damn methodical and careful reassembling it.  Dizzy is a new NAPA recon unit.  The gasping for air is not a constant.  I'm wondering if something is blocking the fuel intake in the tank..........
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on February 04, 2012, 03:36:57 PM


Sorry for the fire drill on the carb.  It's hard from 4500 miles away
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 04, 2012, 04:03:05 PM
Don't aoplogize Steve, I'm perplexed as hell.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 04, 2012, 04:40:04 PM
Yeah, but vaporlock from the gas tank usually kills the engine and makes it sputter at the beginning, not just with full throttle and stops at half throttle. Did you get the float level checked to make sure it isn't too high, or too low?
 
The distributor, does it have a hex end on the vacuum advance or is is cone shaped?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 04, 2012, 04:42:42 PM
Ok kids, where exactly in the float do I measure?  Instructions said to set them at 5/16" at the outer edge of the crown.  Is this the end farthest from the pivot?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 04, 2012, 04:51:39 PM
Also, to get the car to start warm, the mixture screws have to be out at least 3 turns.  2.5 it struggles to start, 2 turns it won't.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 04, 2012, 04:53:00 PM
Yeah, the crown is the lip on the edge of the carb top.  I believe the pictures show the measurement in the directions measuring from the carb outer edge to the seam of the float. If you pull the top of the carb off and there is gas right at the edge, or only about a1/16th of an inch below the lip, it is out of adjustment, it should be about .120 (1/8th inch) below the edge with the float in the fuel.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 04, 2012, 08:14:17 PM
I'll pop the lid off in the morning and see what there is to see.  I saw a diagram that shows the adjusting out the idle screws richens the fuel mixture; they let more fuel in.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 05, 2012, 08:51:09 AM
(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC06024.jpg)


(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC06023.jpg)
 
 
Looks low to me.....
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on February 05, 2012, 11:51:30 AM


Where is this leak you are talking about?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 05, 2012, 12:02:56 PM
Leaks fixed and cleaned up.  Wouldn't start this morning, but when I raised the float level it it started.  Screws are out 3.25 turns, it idles ok, but it's a tad rough.  Before I raised float level, fuel wasn't running into the slot for the accelerator pump well.
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on February 05, 2012, 01:15:02 PM


I see a drop of water on the plunger.  Bomb that tank with some good Isopropanol
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 05, 2012, 01:47:58 PM
Where and how much do I get?  I was told to throw some Sea Foam in it.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 05, 2012, 02:41:39 PM
Anyone wanna buy a Chrysler?  Cheap......
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 05, 2012, 03:57:06 PM
I reset the float level so there was actually gas going into it now.  Car started fine after as I said earlier, though idle is a bit rough.  At the intial setting of 2 turns on the mixture screws, it at least started if I gave it gas, where as it wouldn't before.  Screws are out 3.25 turns as I said before.  I took it out for a drive, warmed her up and decided to kick into passing gear.  All was fine until about 70, when she acted like she was starving for gas, surging really bad.  Kept my foot buried, and the intake sounds were kind of hollow sounding after the surging stopped, and she had absolutely no power and my speed was dropping.  Took my foot off the gas, and then gave it a little and she acceleratd again, but if I did anythign dramatic with the pedal, surging then gasping for fuel.  Could my fuel pump be deciding to die?  I'm beginning to wonder if it's keeping the fuel bowl filled under high demand.  I once had a Datsun the had no oomph climibing moutain passes, but was fine at idle and the flats.  Founf the rubber diaphram was cracked and leaking internally.  I wonder of that happening here?
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on February 05, 2012, 04:24:28 PM


Did you do that choke flapper thing I suggested?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 05, 2012, 04:37:55 PM
Mopar electronic.  Didn't do the flapper thing, as I've been finding other sins like the fuel bowl level being hosed.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 05, 2012, 06:23:42 PM
Well, keep at it, and the fuel pump may be going out. Check the fuel filter while you are at it, and a gallon of alcohol should clean out the water problem. If you find rust in the fuel filter when you tap it out, as in larger pieces, fuel lines may be in order. There is also a small metal tube that is the vent for the gas tank, pull it off the fuel nozzle filler and see if you can blow through it. It is very tiny, so it isn't like you can blow easily through it.  Being able to go from 5 down to 3.25 turns means you are going in the right direction, now that she has run, or after she runs, pop the top off once again and see what the level looks like, it may still be a little low, the emulsifier tubes neet to have enough fuel in them to work properly. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? Should be around 4.5psi if not mistaken. I think the problem is still in the carb adjustment the way you floor it and she bogs, let off and she does better. It should take about 12 seconds of full throttle to be starving for fuel. Hold off on the Seafoam for now, and how do the sparkplugs look?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 05, 2012, 06:28:16 PM
12 seconds sure sounds about right......  You're referring to emptying out the bowl right??  Because if I wait a bit before I put my foot back in it, she runs out great for a little bit.  If I do it immediately, she starves.  And, 3.25 turns gives me a lumpy idle with random engine shakes.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 05, 2012, 08:02:35 PM
Yeah, 12 seconds is about the full throttle time to empty the bowl, so if you are low to begin with, that cuts to a couple seconds, so she isn't getting enough fuel. Low bowl level is what is going on, and if you have to pop the top to check the level until it gets to the right height, do it, you will get good at it, and just gently adjust until it is correct. The fuel level has to be high enough to function properly, which you are finding out, but at least you are on the right track.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 05, 2012, 09:30:59 PM
Will that cause me the poor idle, hard cold starting, and need to mixture screws to be set so rich?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 06, 2012, 05:25:30 AM
Well, 27 degrees outside, and though I had to pump the throttle maybe a dozen times total, she started in less than a minute with no assistance from ether.  Might be on to someting with the float level.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 06, 2012, 05:48:44 AM
Yeah, sounds like it. The level is as high as it is for a reason, otherwise, why have all that space in there, right? Low fuel level is the cause of all the problems right now. It has to be that high for the venturi to be able to pull the fuel from the emulsifier tubes properly, so right now it is working like a fuel pump sucking the last inch of gas out of the gas tank, it pulls air and fuel, but not enough fuel to offset the stumbling at full throttle, which is why the idle isn't as good either. Gotta get that fuel level up where it belongs. Little by little, get it up to about 1/8th inch from the top. Setting these floats is difficult because you can't judge the pressure against the needle in relation to the bouyancy of the float. Keep at it.dana442012-02-06 10:52:41
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 06, 2012, 08:30:19 AM


Will play with level at lunch.  Again, I thank you and Steve for your time helping me, it's been invaluable.  I just hope when I eventually get my New Yorker or 300, it hasn't sat for 2 years.....(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 06, 2012, 09:46:46 AM
I hear you , and besides, gives me a chance to hone my skills helping others, but your pictures have been a tremendous help to verify, and correct myself at times, many changes over the years, so it really keeps me in check, and helps me keep from looking like a total fool at times. Still gotta get her running right though.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 06, 2012, 09:52:42 AM


Tis why I have the digital camera.  All the dscriptions in the world for troubleshooting are not as good as a pic.  I've been on forums before where good people have tried to help total idiots, and the pictures are my way of saying "I'm not an idiot".....(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley27.gif)  Help others help you I feel.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 06, 2012, 09:53:38 AM


Oh yeah, the unassisted cold start this morning was sure a step in the right direction!
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 06, 2012, 09:56:02 AM
Baby steps....baby steps...
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 06, 2012, 12:26:15 PM


Cranked up float level some more, no joy, starving for fuel under extended full throttle.....
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 06, 2012, 01:10:40 PM
Is it getting any better at all, and where is the float level now? Up to about 1/8th inch from the top?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 06, 2012, 01:27:27 PM


Yeah, pretty close to that mark.  Much more I think it will hit the lid of the carb.  I'm betting I've solved cold start, but running the bowl out is a secondary problem.  Still doesn't idle all that swell. 
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 06, 2012, 01:35:52 PM


It did seem to last a bit longer before it starved for fuel.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 06, 2012, 02:40:25 PM
OK. Get a few mornings starting good, get that alcohol into the gas tank, check the plugs and distributor cap, fuel filter, then take her out for an hour or longer drive at steady speeds, get all the moisture burned out of the engine, then do a little flogging. She needs a good cruise after sitting so long, clean out that last old gas, make sure fuel is fresher, and the plugs are gapped right, .035 for electronic ignition, a good shakedown, as long as that float level is up where it belongs.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 06, 2012, 03:26:17 PM


Where do I get that alcohol I need?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 06, 2012, 03:36:51 PM



btw, I did fill her on Sat with fresh super.  Took about half a tank.
 I will probably change fuel filters again just to evaluate if this one has crap in it or not.carrman2012-02-06 20:38:00
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 06, 2012, 04:18:32 PM
Home Depot or Lowes, someplace like that, it is in with all the other paint thinners and stuff like that.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 06, 2012, 06:43:40 PM
Isopropyl?
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 06, 2012, 07:14:35 PM
Or wood, methanol, or methyl, any of them will work. They have it in gallon cans, and the wood methanol is a drying agent, so it sucks water and absorbs it, then burns it better. Isopranyl will separate from the water by settling or evaporation, but the wood, methyl, or methanol bonds with water. (thanks wikipedia).
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 07, 2012, 06:45:44 AM



And of course it was 57 degrees at 5am.  No cold starting able to be done....
But it did light right off!carrman2012-02-07 16:57:44
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 07, 2012, 03:16:31 PM
It's picture time:
 
Look at the fuel elvel in the filter at idle, normal?
 
(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC06036.jpg)
 
Check out the lovely crimped fuel line:
 
(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC06035.jpg)
 
Oh hey, the throttle shaft leaks fuel when you move it and the cars shut off:
 
(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC06028.jpg)
 
Hmm, guess the flots level was a bit high, check out the fuel stains on the carb vent:
 
(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC06027.jpg)
 
 
 
I've lowered it.  In addition, the steering box is weeping fluid right out of the adjuster screw and nut.
 
Title: No start....
Post by: Bill on February 07, 2012, 03:27:50 PM

Fuel looks a bit rusty.  Granted not bad, but that's still rust being deposited around the vent.  Level in the filter at idle looks ok , it's full.
czervika2012-02-07 20:28:24
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 07, 2012, 04:19:19 PM
Tank rust won't go away will it?
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 07, 2012, 07:57:09 PM
No, rust stays unless it is sealed. Float up just a hair more, fix that kink, clean the filter, and the leak on the butterfly is not good, but not that bad, float was a little high when it was happening, right?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 07, 2012, 08:07:08 PM
Yup, float was high.  Do they make replacement fuel lines?  So the tank either needs resealed or replaced then?
 
carrman2012-02-08 01:08:57
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on February 07, 2012, 09:10:34 PM


What kink?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 08, 2012, 02:45:04 AM
fuel line from pump to carb has a kink in it.
 
 
Dave
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 08, 2012, 08:23:34 AM
You can rebend another piece of 5/16ths inch line, or maybe 3/8ths inch line easy enough. The gas tank can be resealed, I think Eastwood has some stuff to do it, have heard it to be pretty reliable and works good.
From there, you may want to replace all the fuel line, given its age and the fact that if the tank is like this, the line is probably the same way. You can get long lengths of tube, even coils of the line to make it one single line. Might even go so far as to do stainless steel line for real durability, especially in the bad winter weather areas. Once the old line rusts, no way to stop it from continuing.
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on February 08, 2012, 08:27:41 AM


So raising that float made a diff?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 08, 2012, 08:27:51 AM


Unbelieveable.  When I sold this car, it didn't have these issues.......  I reckon the steering box is borked also?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 08, 2012, 09:15:22 AM

Quote from: POLARACO

Made a difference in cold starting.  Thinking fuel starvation at top end is a secondary problem, maybe from kinked steel fuel line.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 08, 2012, 02:44:52 PM
Ok, got that kinked line off, found the fuel filter just packed full of fine rust particles........  Damn I am so screwed.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 08, 2012, 02:51:32 PM
Naah, just a whole bunch of extra work to get it right. It happens.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 08, 2012, 03:00:18 PM
(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC06042.jpg)



(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC06040.jpg)
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 08, 2012, 03:40:38 PM
Holy sludge, Batman!
 
Yeah, full fuel system flush, seal and line replacement, especially after the carb rebuild and finally tuned pretty good. Check the local radiator shop to see if he can flush and seal the gas tank, redo lines from the tank forward, replace the kinked piece, too.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 08, 2012, 04:25:49 PM
Could all this rust have be causing the problems I still have?
 
 
Dave
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 08, 2012, 04:43:43 PM
Yes. Fuel filters keep the big stuff out, but doesn't do anything for the small stuff, but does not reflect how much the lines are actually plugged up themselves.  Remember Jim Fixx, the runner? Started out running when he weighed in at 300lbs and ran off 145lbs. Ran a marathon a week, wrote three books, ran half marathons three times a week for training between marathons. As healthy as he supposedly was, his body was found on the side of a ditch, autopsy showed his arteries, as healthy as he was, were only flowing 7-10 percent the amount they should, and he was doing what he was doing. You won't know how bad things really are until everything is replaced. Not the first time it has been like this, always a chance.
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on February 08, 2012, 07:38:25 PM


As Ed said, you can take that to a rad shop and have him clean it and seal it, or you can go to Eastwood and get their kit.  StitcherBob wrote an article a few years ago on prepping the tank using a piece of chain.  Maybe you can find it.  But you want to use a solvent that will evaporate to flush it out.  Water will take a while unless you have a warm place to dry the tank rapidly.  Put it on top of the heat boiler with a fan blowing through it.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 08, 2012, 07:53:46 PM
It's there, on the inside radius of the bend.  Not a huge kink but one nonetheless.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 08, 2012, 07:57:21 PM
Well I need to pull back and regroup.  I'm not able to pull the tank here, so I need to figure out where to do it, and what I will do about the tank and lines.  I didn't expect this, but I was afraid of it happening.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 08, 2012, 08:19:50 PM
Until you get the gas tank out, put a couple filters in line and burn some of the gas up.  The fuel pump to carb line isnt' very long and could be bent easy enough, so you can drive around in her a bit more, keep an eye on two or three filters in line with each other, get the almost full tank of gas empty, get close to empty and then by then you should have a location to pull the tank and fuel line. Should probably be warmed up enough to do it without a heater in about a couple months, but at least she will run from point A to point B under her own power. Afterwards, pull the top and floats, see what is on the bottom of the carb bowl, clean it out afterwards.
Title: No start....
Post by: Dan Cluley on February 08, 2012, 08:42:27 PM


Obviously pulling the tank and getting it cleaned is the ideal solution, but this may get you down the road for a while. (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif)
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 09, 2012, 07:10:31 AM


40 bucks to boil it out, 100 bucks if it needs resealed.  Pays to have friends in radiator shops.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 09, 2012, 08:07:27 AM
Yes it does, and it would guarantee not to be an issue in the future.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 09, 2012, 08:22:30 AM


Far cheaper than a new tank.  Who do you guys get new fuel lines from?
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 09, 2012, 08:56:08 AM
You may do best to make your own, you can get the fuel line in large coils, make your own ends to reduce finnings, but Steve may know whether or not Justlines makes them for this model.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 09, 2012, 09:07:54 AM


http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/RSeCommerce/ProductListsByCategory.aspx?CategoryID=1014 (http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/RSeCommerce/ProductListsByCategory.aspx?CategoryID=1014)
Title: No start....
Post by: firedome on February 09, 2012, 09:10:31 AM
Bill Hirsch makes an excellent tank sealer if you need to buy
some.  You can pull the tank, throw in some chain or large 1"
gravel, shake it around for a long time rotating as you go, dump out
the chain/gravel, then follow directions for sealing. I've done this
for years with boat gas tanks. Works great.(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley9.gif)

Title: No start....
Post by: Bill on February 09, 2012, 09:37:54 AM
I will say this, mine runs much better since I resealed the tank.  I'm sure the new gas and lack of rust helped.  I have a hard cold start if the choke isn't slammed shut.  But once it's going it's fine and no more stumbling or running rough.
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 09, 2012, 10:01:28 AM
Quote from: carrman
http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/RSeCommerce/ProductListsByCategory.aspx?CategoryID=1014 (http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/RSeCommerce/ProductListsByCategory.aspx?CategoryID=1014)
Looks reasonable to me.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 09, 2012, 01:04:59 PM


My radiator guys says he doesn't like to reseal them unless there's a lof of corrosion going on there.  What's your take on leaving them bare inside?
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 09, 2012, 01:30:29 PM
Originally gas tanks are galvanized/zinc coated inside and out. I personally would be conderned if it didn't have the same type of coating to prevent what happened from happening again.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it, other opinions wanted, too.
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on February 09, 2012, 05:54:47 PM


I've used the Eastwood stuff.  It not only coats, it also does something to the metal
Title: No start....
Post by: firedome on February 10, 2012, 04:29:17 AM

Some of the older tanks were terne plated (lead) lined inside and out,
but not sure when that changed. Guys I know with hi-buck Packards, Cad
v12s etc who went the tank
sealing route using the Hirsch/Eastwood type sealer after quite a few
years and even alky gas have had no problems at all, and the new stuff
is
actually formulated for current E-10 gas. If they can put it in their
$100K+
cars with success it's good enough for me. Bawby would know what the resto shops are doing.



That said, a new tank isn't
all THAT expensive - maybe $230-ish? I know I can get one for a Forward
Look for that.  So if one were keeping the car longer term, I'd
say it's a good investment for peace of mind. 
firedome2012-02-10 09:32:08
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 10, 2012, 05:36:07 AM



New tank is a minimum 300 dolars plus freight.  NAPA can get me one for 469.00 plus freight....
  I was trying to keep this a low dollar cruiser, but I think I'm going to fail that low dollar part....  I do wish I were working with somehting like a 300, or New Yorker, rather than a plain jane Newport without power brakes....(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)carrman2012-02-10 10:39:27
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 10, 2012, 05:50:15 AM
So it sounds like the boiling and Eastwood sounds to be a worthwhile solution. The old terne surfaces which was lead and tin, worked fine and dandy because gasoline used to have lead in it to begin with, but it took quite a few years to get rusty, new tanks are great because they are plastic and tougher than heck. Anyway.
 
Don't be upset in putting money into a lowly Newport. Here is the proper perspective to think of this, because it could be said our cars are better than our wives and here is how looks matter. You can marry a beautiful woman (a 300), or you can marry a homely woman (a Newport), but chances are a beautiful woman will leave you (or someone steal or wreck your 300), which is not to say the same thing could happen with a homely woman (like the Newport), the difference is, it doesn't hurt as much with the Newport.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 10, 2012, 07:02:47 AM


I'm not upset, I just wish it were the higher line car.....  Suppose I save some headaches by not having a 440 under the hood....(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)
Title: No start....
Post by: firedome on February 10, 2012, 07:46:19 AM
Personally I like the low-line cars better. Less to go wrong, I especially hate power windows.

Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 10, 2012, 07:47:22 AM
Yeah, I know what you mean, but Newports are still nice cars, ride is the same as a 300 and all that, but that's understandable, but bet you save a little on the insurance and doing things under the hood and changing things for the better are easier on the cringe-factor if done copared to the 300 or New Yorker, right?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 10, 2012, 08:14:14 AM


Well I don't have the joy of changing 440 plugs, and the fun of A/C and the barrell of snakes it puts under the hood....  My Newport has a one family history, and that's part of the appeal to me.  It just needs a few thousand thrown at it.  I have to remember plain jane 4 doors were part of the automotive scene in the 60's too, not everyone had a 2 door.  Now, if only the wife would let me have a T&C.......  And, I don't have to worry about the evil of a vinyl top!
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 10, 2012, 08:15:49 AM


I blame Lea for getting me to be taken with the '68 New Yorker.  I just fell in love with the look of his old ride.
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on February 10, 2012, 11:29:09 AM

Quote from: carrman

Well I don't have the joy of changing 440 plugs, and the fun of A/C and the barrell of snakes it puts under the hood....  My Newport has a one family history, and that's part of the appeal to me.  It just needs a few thousand thrown at it.  I have to remember plain jane 4 doors were part of the automotive scene in the 60's too, not everyone had a 2 door.  Now, if only the wife would let me have a T&C.......  And, I don't have to worry about the evil of a vinyl top!
You're right about the top.  I finally tore off the rest of mine before Polaraco became a convertible
Title: No start....
Post by: firedome on February 11, 2012, 06:18:38 AM
I'd bet if you took it to a show more people would look at the 4 dr
than a 2 dr...'cause everybody knew somebody once with "one just like
that".  2 drs at a typical show... booorring!   

Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 11, 2012, 11:05:17 AM
The beastie in question:
 
(http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i392/carrman/DSC05515.jpg)
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on February 11, 2012, 02:09:58 PM


Why did I think that was bronze?
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 15, 2012, 03:57:25 PM
Ayup, the tank rust was causing my out of fuel under high demand.  New glass type filter with replaceable cartridge and I have all the power I want now.  Tanks gotta come down.
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on February 15, 2012, 04:15:02 PM


That will do it.  Dodn't take long did it.  Still run 2 filters to keep it out of the carb until you get the tank done.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 15, 2012, 04:20:22 PM
I did replace that line anyway, but when I saw that filter, I knew what the story was.
Title: No start....
Post by: R. Dave Carr on February 17, 2012, 04:03:56 PM
So, new short line weeps fuel, new glass fuel filter plugged in 10 miles.  Second filter installed now, just driving long enough to use up gas.  Can anything big enough to affect the carb get past the filters?
Title: No start....
Post by: Steve on February 17, 2012, 04:32:04 PM


That tank must be really bad
Title: No start....
Post by: Guests on February 17, 2012, 04:51:12 PM
With two filters and less than a tank of gas, you don't by chance have an old sediment bowl you could stick on there, also?