MoparFins

Techical Discussions => Tech- - Engine => Topic started by: Marcel on April 19, 2010, 07:37:21 AM

Title: New numbers!
Post by: Marcel on April 19, 2010, 07:37:21 AM
Anybody can help me with this number on front of the 440 engine?
What was / is it?

9T440TE




Title: New numbers!
Post by: Guests on April 19, 2010, 06:57:21 PM
http://www.yearone.com/updatedsinglepages/Id_info/mopar/mopar%20casting%20numbers/castingnumbers3.html (http://www.yearone.com/updatedsinglepages/Id_info/mopar/mopar%20casting%20numbers/castingnumbers3.html)


This should help as far as where some information is, but all I can tell from this stamp is that it is a truck engine (T). Now granted these are US casting numbers and system, not sure where in Europe any engine may have been made for this casting number, so, what is the number on the side of the block? This Year One site has a lot of information for identification of blocks and other parts.
Title: New numbers!
Post by: Stan Paralikis on April 20, 2010, 03:49:16 AM
Personally, I have never seen a stamping like that before. 
Title: New numbers!
Post by: Steve on April 20, 2010, 06:13:27 AM
I have. . .   And yes I agree it's a truck engine.  Motor home actually.
 
The good thing about the truck engines is they have more steam holes in the heads for better cooling.  Make sure you match the head gaskets.  That is very important
Title: New numbers!
Post by: Guests on April 20, 2010, 07:50:08 PM
Check the harmonic balancer on the engine, see if there is any writing on the front side that states something like, cast iron crankshaft counterbalance only, indicating it is some time around 1973 or newer. The site I put up gives locations of the casting numbers, might be able to narrow a little more info down, just hope that truck doesn't equate to marine application, which are usually reverse rotation engines.
Title: New numbers!
Post by: Marcel on April 21, 2010, 01:04:13 AM
Thx will have a look for more numbers on this one!

Title: New numbers!
Post by: firedome on April 21, 2010, 04:01:04 AM
Didn't some of the marine engines have counter rotation? My Chris
Cavalier's twin 318s did. Or was that accomplished as part of the
Velvet Drive. I never got to tear into them.

Title: New numbers!
Post by: Alan on April 21, 2010, 04:19:04 AM
Most twin engine boats had one normal rotation engine and one counter rotation engine to balance out the torque and stress on the hull, kept it running straight too.
Title: New numbers!
Post by: firedome on April 21, 2010, 04:24:36 AM
Right, even twin outboards often have counter rotation. Bigger inboards
with singles are a real pig to drive. But in Mopar marine V8s was it
accomplished in the engine or transmission, is my question. I only
worked on a few inboards summers at the marina because they had a guy
that specialized in big inboards and I worked mainly on outboards and
I/Os (the latter of which suck)


firedome2010-04-21 09:28:01
Title: New numbers!
Post by: Alan on April 21, 2010, 08:10:03 AM
I can't say for sure how Mopar equiped boats were done, mine were Chevies, But it stands to reason that it was done the same way with one of the  engine setup to run backwards. It wasn't done by using just an opposite rotation reverse gear (tranny). It was a real PITA because everything was different for that engine, water pump, starter, etc. And to complicate things even further, some boats also inverted the engines so the front was facing rear and attached the flywheel and reverse gear  to what is normally the front of the engine. Am I confusing you even more?  What it comes down to is, if you think you have a boat engine you need to know if it was setup for standard or counter rotation. No way will the counter  engine work in an automotive application. Boat engines also endure a lot more strain than a car engine, so used ones are usually pretty beat up. Sorry, long answer to a short question.
Title: New numbers!
Post by: Stan Paralikis on April 21, 2010, 11:09:25 AM
Quote from: 67Newport
if you think you have a boat engine you need to know if it was setup for standard or counter rotation. No way will the counter  engine work in an automotive application.
Yes it will.  Only you'll have a 1 speed with a 4 speed reverse....
Title: New numbers!
Post by: Steve on April 21, 2010, 11:23:40 AM
You could make it front wheel drive.. . .
Title: New numbers!
Post by: Marcel on April 21, 2010, 12:08:44 PM
Here we go guys!

Block casting number 4006630-440-8


Title: New numbers!
Post by: Guests on April 21, 2010, 01:57:58 PM
http://www.stockmopar.com/mopar-engine-casting-numbers.html (http://www.stockmopar.com/mopar-engine-casting-numbers.html)
 
Yep, truck engine, so the next thing to do is get the head casting number and see if we can narrow it down a little more. This casting number, in looking at several casting number listings can be anywhere from 1968 all the way through 1978, even for a truck. One indicator of it being closer to 1978 is the -8, another is a harmonic balancer that shows the stamping for cast iron or external balance written on it, and the head casting number. The three colums are block casting number, head casting number, and crankshaft casting number. Enjoy,
 
Ed
 




 [color=#ffff00 size=-1 face=Arial]1968-78[/color]
V-8[/color]
 [color=#ffff00 size=-1 face=Arial]Steel Crank[/color]
 [color=#ffff00 size=-1 face=Arial]4006630 3830930 3698830[/color]
 [color=#ffff00 size=-1 face=Arial]3769975 4006452 3462346 3751213[/color]
 [color=#ffff00 size=-1 face=Arial]2206160[/color]

 [color=#ffff00 size=-1 face=Arial]1973-79[/color]
V-8[/color]
 [color=#ffff00 size=-1 face=Arial]Cast Crank[/color]
 [color=#ffff00 size=-1 face=Arial]4006630 3830930 3698830[/color]
 [color=#ffff00 size=-1 face=Arial]4006452 3751213 3769975 3462346[/color]
POLARACO2010-04-22 12:28:40
Title: New numbers!
Post by: Marcel on April 21, 2010, 08:23:52 PM
Hi Ed, thanks fro the clear explanation.
 i will have a look at those this weekend.
Would any of those engine be a good core to rebuild if the engine is like told me with the stock bore?



Title: New numbers!
Post by: Guests on April 21, 2010, 08:43:24 PM
Of course it is worth it to rebuild. The later engines had cast nodular steel cranks, which can handle 550hp easily, still rev into the 6500-7500rpm without problems, have a strong core and little core shift so they are stable blocks, and depending on the number of miles, she may not even require a cylinder rebore job. Even if there is internal damage, like a messed up bore, the block can be re-sleeved by pressing a new sleeve in. Heck, I have a 1976 truck block in my 68 Charger (it will eventually make its way to my 1939 Nash Business Coupe, but that's later).
Title: New numbers!
Post by: Stan Paralikis on April 22, 2010, 03:53:53 AM
I have to stick my nose in where it doesn't belong sometimes but, somethings I continue to hear things that make all my orifices pucker.  In this case, it's the term "truck block".  No such thing.  I'll leave now - lol
Title: New numbers!
Post by: Guests on April 22, 2010, 06:51:42 AM
Stan, you didn't stick your nose where it didn't belong (yet), but truck block is usually simply associated with a smaller cam and larger water jacket simply to give more bottom end torque for towing/hauling, and keeping her cooler from the stress of towing/hauling. You are right, it is still completely interchangeable with even the 440 six-pac parts/components, no "truck specific" parts other than camshaft actually.
Title: New numbers!
Post by: Marcel on April 25, 2010, 10:39:03 PM

Just had a look at the engine and it's the one with the cast crank.
This might be the core I'm going to use for the new project!
The Pistons have the chrysler star inside with a 10 behind it..
So these are stock?
Thx folks!

boyfriend2010-04-26 04:42:07
Title: New numbers!
Post by: Guests on April 26, 2010, 09:29:54 PM
Better stick the measure tape on them pistons, they may be oversized .010inch, can't verify that.
 
If the block is solid, and if you don't want the cast crank, which is still a cast nodular steel, not GM cast iron, so it is still good for 6500rpm without a problem, good for 600hp without an issue, so not a bad crank, but if you want a steel crank, other than aftermarket, you have the 413 steel crank, and the 426 Wedge (hey, isn't that what you were going to be building to begin with???). 
Here's a good source for reasonable price.
 
http://store.440source.com/3750-Stroke-Crankshafts/products/39/ (http://store.440source.com/3750-Stroke-Crankshafts/products/39/)
 
440 Source has some pretty good prices actually, and I have never heard anything bad about them.
Title: New numbers!
Post by: Marcel on April 27, 2010, 02:29:48 AM
Hi thx for you reply!
I was also thinking of putting a complete stroker kit inside this engine.
.010  oversize isn't that bad I think..


Title: New numbers!
Post by: Guests on April 27, 2010, 06:55:33 PM
You can do a 4.15inch stoker crank, and use big block Chevy sized rod journals, plenty of places out there with stroker kits and all that. I recommend the BBChevy rod diameters because the big block Mopar journals are good for torque and work, not so good for high rpm, just right on the edge of being too big, and today's quality of materials fixes the smaller journal size and strength of the 70s.